The Power Company Climbing Podcast Plug Tone Audio

You’re scrolling Instagram or YouTube or listening to the newest podcast episodes, and now, just today, you’ve got three new finger strength protocols to try, you learned that your footwork needs overhauling, you’re warming up all wrong, and you have to buy a few new training devices.
And you have to implement it all right now, because, well, you just do. It doesn’t matter that you have no idea if anything has worked – or will work – because the next thing could be THE thing, and you’ve been plateaued and need to level up right now.
The good news is that you don’t have to stop consuming all of the information and trying new things and learning as much as possible.
You can keep at it. Collect it all.
But...
 
Read the rest on the blog!
Watch the video on YouTube!
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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing
Taped Tips | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves
Taped Tips | Climb Taller AND Smaller
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become A Better Climber – Use code POD at checkout for 20% off!
Find the Proven Plan That Fits You
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🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Subscribe to The Current to learn more about the upcoming Movement Assessment Tool.
In this Pro Clinic from the Patreon of The Struggle Climbing Show, Nate covers 14 barriers that are holding us back from improving technically, including:

Why climbing with straight arms is NOT more efficient


When it’s good to make others’ beta your own


The most important question to ask yourself when you fall


The conflict between strength and skill


The three things to focus on to get better RIGHT NOW


Why practice is the opposite of performance


How to make climbing not feel like work


What we can learn from the V3 that Adam Ondra DIDN’T flash

Be the first to learn about about the new Movement Assessment Tool & Mini-Course!
 
In this special Q & A episode, Kris fields questions from YOU! Sent in from our Patrons, Kris digs into what you want to know when it comes to climbing movement.
This is Part 1 of 2 episodes so be sure to stay tuned for Part 2, coming soon!
Thanks to Patrons Cody Ratterman, Matt, Martin Bertram, Lydia Benitez, and Yoav Pinto for the great questions!
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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills
_________________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
_________________________
📚 CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:02) Movement Principles Specificity
(5:14) Wall Angles
(9:07) Conditions Affect Movement
(13:40) Training with Bad Feet
(19:50) Combined Movement and Energy Systems
(25:02) Movement vs. Strength Questions
(31:48) How to Evaluate Movement
(37:52) Movement Assessment Tool

Until recently, not many people logged what they climbed in the gym, and it was even more rare to hear about it. Now, with social media and apps that can log both, it's becoming more confusing. Should we be logging the two the same? We're conflicted.

Short climbers are good at getting scrunchy, and tall climbers are good at climbing extended, right?
Ummm, no. Not always.Actually, not even most of the time.
Believing that, particularly if you’re one of those short or tall climbers, is a trap. I’m going to tell you why, and I’m going to tell you exactly how to make sure you don’t fall into this trap. Or if you’re in it already, how to get out, so that we can all extend our useful range...
Read the rest on the blog!
Watch the video on YouTube!
_________________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing
Taped Tips | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
Marina Inoue | Does Size Matter?
Applied Body Tension Ebook
_________________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today we rewind to an episode of Breaking Beta where Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing:
Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's movement performanceAuthored by Nicola Taylor, Dave Giles, Michaela Panáčková, James Mitchell, Joel B. Chidley, and Nick Draper; published in the International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance in January, 2020.
They’ll attempt to determine whether or not movement skills in climbing can even be measured reliably, and if the proposed system translates to anything useful for everyday climbers and coaches trying to assess movement.
 
This episode originally aired on July 27, 2022.
____________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
More Episodes of Breaking Beta: The Science of Climbing Podcast
____________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
📚CHAPTERS
(00:00) Notes From Kris
(3:11) Introduction
(6:48) Methods
(15:37) Results and Our Thoughts
(27:37) What Should Come Next?
(34:34) Wrap Up
(39:28) Credits and Theme