HODINKEE Podcasts

HODINKEE
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This is the main feed for all of Hodinkee's podcasts, from "Hodinkee Radio" to new and special presentations subscribe here for discussions about the latest watch releases, interviews with notable collectors, and a whole lot more.

  1. 21h ago

    The Business of Watches [042] Formex CEO And Head Of Product Development At Dexel Raphael Granito

    Formex holds a unique place in the Swiss watch industry. The brand was born in the early 2000s with a proprietary case suspension system and designs that expressed the origins of its name 'forme extrême' (extreme shapes in French). But the recession spurred by the Global Financial Crisis of 2008 dealt a near fatal blow to the brand and it entered a period of relative dormancy. Then in 2016, Formex was taken over by a group backed by one of its suppliers, Dexel, a Swiss component maker specializing in bracelets, clasps and cases as well as dials at its subsidiary Cadranor.  Raphael Granito, now in his mid-thirties, is part of the family business behind Dexel and led the take over and revival of the Formex marque. He has steered the brand's development ever since and a decade later, Formex is leveraging its manufacturing savoir-faire and research and development skills from Dexel to produce innovative and approachable-priced Swiss Made watches.  The brand evolution culminated recently with the Aria, a high-end integrated bracelet titanium sport watch with an, ultra-thin, micro-rotor manufacture movement designed by Horage, priced below CHF 6,000. That's a significant step up compared to the CHF 1,800 average price point for its watches. Granito outlines how the brand has grown and connected with more customers, operating mainly outside the traditional retail structure. Still a family business, he hired his best friend from university to lead marketing and sales efforts. Formex has distinguished itself offering upscale finishing and components, including cases, bracelets innovative clasps and stone dials that include meteorite options. It's approach to design and engineering innovation, that Granito calls 'designeering,'  has certainly struck a chord with a watch enthusiasts, particularly in the U.S., now the Swiss brand's largest market. Show Notes 1:05 Raphael Granito (Instagram)  1:58 Formex (company website)  2:05 The Inner Workings of Formex's Case Suspension System (WatchGecko)  2:56 The Great Recession and its Aftermath (Federal Reserve History)  3:57 The Secret Sauce Behind the Value Proposition of Formex Watches (Timefiles)  4:08 Dexel (website)  4:12 Cadranor (website) 5:16 Formex Essence 5:37  Interview with Markus Wälchli, marketing director of Formex (The Watch Society YouTube) 12:17 Hands-OnFurlan Marri Disco Diamonds Onyx – A New Affordable Entry Into Subtle Gemsetting (Hodinkee)  13:52 How to Determine Product Pricing — The Complete Formula for Small-Batch Manufacturers (Stocksmith.io)  19:26 The Aria Manufacture Chronometer From Formex (Hodinkee)  25:25 Intersect, By the Brands, For the Enthusiasts

    The Business of Watches [042] Formex CEO And Head Of Product Development At Dexel Raphael Granito

  2. Sep 23

    The Business of Watches [41] Czapek & Cie. Chief Executive Officer And Co-Founder Xavier de Roquemaurel

    This week on The Business of Watches, we sit down with the business leader who has headed the reborn Czapek & Cie. brand for more than a decade now. Xavier de Roquemaurel didn't come from the watch industry when he co-founded Czapek with fellow entrepreneur Harry Guhl with help from watchmaker Sébastien Follonier in 2015.  He's had to learn the industry on the job and while Czapek burst on the scene by winning the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Public Prize in its debut year in 2016, the company and de Roquemaurel have faced plenty of challenges along the way. From the  novel financing and shareholder model they created to fund the startup, to reckoning with a massive surge of back orders for their popular Antarctique integrated bracelet sports watch model during the boom times of the post-pandemic era, as well as serious health and medical ordeals. Reconsidering all the tests he and the company have faced, de Roquemaurel says he now believes that "adversity gets the best out of you."   Today, Czapek has just opened a new boutique on the historic Quai des Bergues in Geneva on the same banks of the Rhone river where François Czapek himself had his first atelier in the 1800s. In a wide ranging interview, the Czapek CEO traces both the path of the reborn brand and how it has found inspiration in the legacy of the watchmaker that opened what is believed to be the first watch boutique on Place de Vendome in Paris while producing timepieces for Napoleon III and the French Imperial court.  Stay tuned to the end for a preview of what complication the brand might take on next. Show Notes:1:05 Czapek Quai des Bergues Collection  1:58 Deconstructing the story of François Czapek (The Naked Watchmaker)  4:20 L'Oreal steals French stock market crown from LVMH (Reuters)  5:05 Agustin Almodovar Reflects on His Career as Brother Pedro's Producer (Variety)  7:01 Czapek Promenade Transparencies "Aqua Blue" (Hodinkee)  7:31 The Fratello x Czapek Promenade Transparencies "Viridan Green" (Hodinkee)  8:43 Watch Time New York  9:22  Czapek Documentary - An Unexpected Renaissance (YouTube)  10:07 Rolex, The Making Of A Status Symbol With Author Pierre-Yves Donzé (Hodinkee)  12:01 Battle of Warsaw 1831 (Wikipedia)  13:48 The Story of the Founding of Patek Philippe (Company website)  18:20 Czapek & Cie (Wikipedia) 23:09 Understanding Crowdfunding (Financial Conduct Authority)  24:50 Prospectus definition (Cornell Law)https://www.law.cornell.edu/wex/prospectus35:54 Thoracic Aortic Aneurysm Dissection (UCLA Health) - we Googled it 39:57 Zegna  41:16 FINMA 42:13 Right of first refusal - definition (Harvard Law)  42:20 Tag along and drag along rights definition (Investopedia)  46:19 Czapek Deep Dive (SDC weekly 104) 49:25 Rolex Certified Pre-Owned 52:27 Inhotec SA  54:11 Czapek Watches (website)

    The Business of Watches [41] Czapek & Cie. Chief Executive Officer And Co-Founder Xavier de Roquemaurel

  3. Sep 16

    The Business of Watches [40] Hublot Chief Executive Officer Julien Tornare On Partnering With Jeff Koons And Re-Connecting With The Brand's Founder

    This week on The Business of Watches, a veteran watch industry CEO who is taking on one of the biggest and most demanding challenges of his storied career. Julien Tornare is the head of Hublot, the irreverent and ground-breaking brand controlled by LVMH that's trying to reclaim some of its former glory and role as a trend-setter in industry innovation.  An affable and talented business leader, Tornare has spent almost three decades in the watch world, with Vacheron Constantin and Richemont, and then as the chief executive of Zenith, where he oversaw a dramatic revival and upswing for the El Primero maker. He then had a brief tenure as the CEO of TAG Heuer, before joining Hublot as the big boss in 2024.  Tornare talks about Hublot's turbulent journey over the past four decades, and the spirit that's reflected in the brand's unconventional and outspoken ambassadors. He also takes on the marque's critics, making the case for why the YouTuber shots are largely unjustified.  As for where Hublot is going, that's partly where it has been, as Tornare discusses the influence of Hublot's Italian founder Carlo Crocco as the company reconsiders its legacy ahead of its 50th anniversary in 2030. There's also news of a major new partnership with legendary American artist Jeff Koons, who is bringing his artistic vision to the watch brand for the first time with a series of bold collaborations. We also discuss the role that Jean Arnault, long considered the true watch enthusiast in the Arnault clan, now has with the brand. Show Notes:0:30 Julien Tornare (Instagram) 1:06 Hublot (website) 1:43 The Quirky Backstory Of The Hublot MDM (FHH) 1:59 Jean-Claude Biver & The Relaunch of Hublot (IMD Business School Case Study) 4:22 Hublot And Football A Perfect Match (The Hour Glass) 6:25 The Truth About Hublot And How Their Watches Stack Up (Luxury Bazaar) 7:51 Julien Tornare, CEO of Hublot: "Hublot Will Rebalance Its Investments" (Luxury Tribune) 9:20 Nyon (Swiss Tourism) 9:59 Hublot Classic Fusion Original Goes Back To Where It All Began (Hodinkee) 10:14 Hublot Expands The Big Bang Across Every Level (Hodinkee) 11:39 Carlo Crocco (Watch Wiki) 14:04 The Art of Fusion In Depth (Time & Tide) 14:24 Andy Warhol's Hublot (Italian Watch Spotter Instagram) 17:20 Hublot Ambassadors 19:50 Why Hate Hublot? Featuring Nico Leonard (YouTube) 21:58 LVMH Watch Boss Sees Jean Arnault as Best Candidate for His Role (SwissInfo)  24:00 Hublot Spirit of Big Bang 31:40 Inside Hublot's Mission to Turn Its Watches Into Museum-Worthy Art (GQ) 32:01 Beyond The Canvas: Jeff Koons Reimagines Time With Hublot 36:10 Hublot Big Bang Original Soft Touch (Gear Patrol)  39:02 Hublot Unveils Decade-Long Warranty As New Industry Benchmark (Johnson & Co.)

    The Business of Watches [40] Hublot Chief Executive Officer Julien Tornare On Partnering With Jeff Koons And Re-Connecting With The Brand's Founder

  4. Sep 9

    The Business of Watches [039] A Market Roundup Of Geneva Watch Days Releases With Tim Jeffreys And TanTan Wang

    This week on The Business of Watches, a fresh take on the new releases we saw at Geneva Watch Days and what they might mean for the market. Ahead of a special request summer fondue dinner, Tim, TanTan and Andy discuss what they saw, what they liked and didn't from the slew of novelties presented during the event.  We go deep into the debut of Gallet, discussing how the entry-level offering from Breitling's House of Brands will stack up against the competition and how it will re-enter the company into the cut-throat $3,000 to $6,000 price category at a time when the Swiss industry is struggling to halt the slide in volumes.  We also talk Bulgari, Oris, Frederique Constant, Girard-Perregaux, MB&F and the latest MADEditions, and why, when it comes to Doxa, you can't have just one. Plus, what the return of a new Northflag (now one word) heralds for Tudor. Show Notes:0:30 Tim Jeffreys 0:32 TanTan Wang  3:38 Gallet (brand website)  5:28 Introducing: The Gallet Flying Officer (Hodinkee)  5:50 Gallet Revives Vintage Fan Favorites With New "Classics" Multichrons (Hodinkee)  8:44 Business News: Breitling's House Of Brands Unveils New Executive Leadership With Georges Kern As Group CEO (Hodinkee)  11:30 Breitling To Relaunch Gallet Confirming Ambitions To Become Multi-Brand Watchmaker (Hodinkee)  12:55 Introducing: The Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis (Hodinkee)  18:11 Essays: Prices, Volumes, And Passion: The Business Of Watches In 2025 And What To Expect In 2026 (Hodinkee)  22:30 Introducing: Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date And Classics Moneta Handwinding (Hodinkee)  26:41 Introducing: Bulgari's Unexpected Dual Time Octo Finissimo With Vianney Halter, Plus A "Dazzle" Camo Release (Hodinkee) 30:45 Introducing: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Limited Edition Ref. 103534 (Hodinkee)  32:38 Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39 (Hodinkee)  35:50 Introducing: The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition (Live Pics) (Hodinkee) 41:19 Introducing: Oris' Big Crown Pointer Date Goes Small With A New 29mm Version (Hodinkee)  43:15 IntroducingThe Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 (Hodinkee)  https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-doxa-sub-300-ti5 48:30 Hands-On: The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese (Hodinkee)  49:48 Business News: Corum Is Back: With A New Admiral, Fresh Designs, And A Plan To Return Brand To Former Glory (Hodinkee)  56:19 Introducing: The Tudor Northflag Returns With Dual Time (Hodinkee)  1:02:14 Best fondue restaurants in Geneva (geneva.info)

    The Business of Watches [039] A Market Roundup Of Geneva Watch Days Releases With Tim Jeffreys And TanTan Wang

  5. Sep 2

    The Business of Watch [038] Armin Strom Co-Founders And Top Executives Serge Michel and Claude Greisler

    This week on The Business of Watches, a visit with the folks running Armin Strom, a true original in the small but increasingly crowded field of independent watch brands. It takes its name and original inspiration from the eponymous Swiss watchmaker who was best known for his innovative and record-setting skeletonizing techniques on watches and dials.  Childhood friends Serge Michel and Claude Greisler took over the brand in 2006. Michel, who controls the company, came from a family business background (in another field of business), while Greisler was a watchmaker and engineer. Twenty years on, Armin Strom is a true original in Swiss watchmaking, producing unique timepieces pushing the boundaries of contemporary horology from an atelier in Biel / Bienne, where most of the components are produced, decorated and finished for the brand's proprietary, in-house designed movements.  This week the brand launch a new version of its Dual Time GMT Resonance in a "manufacture blue edition" with a blue mainplate. The watch employs Armin Strom's unique take on the concept of resonance with dual oscillators kept in balance by its proprietary 'resonance clutch.' The story of the development of the brand's take on the concept is a key element in its journey and we explore and unpack that process in-depth in the episode. Currently making about 400 watches a year with a staff of about 55 people, Armin Strom is on the cusp of increasing its capacity and output. The question is what that growth looks like and Serge Michel explores the decisions the brand is making to take that next step.  Show Notes:2:36 Armin Strom 3:25 Burgdorf, Switzerland (Wikipedia) 5:28 Armin Strom: Exploring Its Past And Present (Fratello) 9:00 Armin Strom's First In House Tourbillon (Europastar) 10:23 In-Depth: Understanding Resonance In Watches (SJX) 12:20 Armin Strom Resonance Clutch Spring 16:04 CSEM Neuchatel 18:02 Innosuisse 20:59 Abraham-Louis Breguet (Wikipedia) 23:10 System 78 25:56 Armin Strom's Groundbreaking 'Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition' Lets You Chime The Time (Or Really Show Off) (Hodinkee) 28:10 Armin Strom Extends Marussia F1 Partnership (Watchpro)

    The Business of Watch [038] Armin Strom Co-Founders And Top Executives Serge Michel and Claude Greisler

  6. Aug 26

    The Business of Watches [037] Former CEO Of Bulgari Jean-Christophe Babin

    This week on The Business of Watches, we're getting a preview and history lesson of Geneva Watch Days. Born in the dark days of the pandemic in 2020, it was a new kind of watch industry gathering, that prioritized access and community over exclusivity. Jean-Christophe Babin, the former Chief Executive Officer of Bulgari, has been there from the beginning. He tells us why Geneva Watch Days started and why it's still needed. We discuss what to expect at this year's event and what the future of watch industry events might bring.  With some 71 brands exhibiting, GWD has more marques than that other big watch show in Geneva that happens each spring, but it's very different in tone and feel. Using a 'decentralized' concept, brands pay fees based on their size and revenue and the show allows for plenty of smaller, boutique brands to show off their wares.  Open to the general public, it certainly isn't as glitzy nor as pricey an event as some others. Babin says the entire budget of GWD is likely less than the cost of staging and running a major booth at Watches and Wonders.  A veteran who has served as the head of LVMH's watch unit as well the CEO of TAG Heuer, Babin has seen the industry through a myriad of cycles, giving him a unique perspective on where the watch sector has been and where it's going.     Show Notes 0:59 Geneva Watch Days website  2:00 Geneva Watch Days 2020 / 2021 (FHS)  5:06 Geneva Tourism - Geneva Watch Days  9:12 Breitling was a founding member of GWD  10:31 Watches and Wonders  12:45 How Watches and Wonders Remains Worthwhile For Brands Big And Small (Hodinkee)  17:16 Geneva Watch Days Agenda / Panels / Symposiums  19:10 Phillips Geneva Watch Days Auction  For Geneva Watchmaking School  22:15 Geneva.com  24:03 Fondation du Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève  31:18 Ferdinand Berthoud  32:00 FHS Statistics  33:40 The criteria for strengthening Swiss made (FHS)  35:20 Swatch 37:50 Casio mechanical watches  40:30 Swatch X Audemars Piguet 'Royal Pop' (Hodinkee)

    The Business of Watches [037] Former CEO Of Bulgari Jean-Christophe Babin

  7. Aug 5

    The Business of Watch [036] Collective Horology CEO Asher Rapkin And Liberty Justice Center Chairman and CEO Sara Albrecht On Suing Trump Over Tariffs

    This week on The Business of Watches, Collective Horology co-founder and Chief Executive Asher Rapkin joins us. He brought his lawyer. While Collective is a Ventura, California-based retailer of independent watch brands, including Armin Strom, Czapek, Fears, Ming and J.N. Shapiro, Sara Albrecht is the chairman and CEO of The Liberty Justice Center. That's the non-profit litigation firm that led the legal fight successfully challenging President Trump's initial round of tariffs all the way to the Supreme Court of the United States. They won, in a surprise decision that ruled the President didn't have the authority to impose the levies that boosted the cost of importing goods to the U.S., including Swiss made watches.  The government is now in the process of refunding the approximately $166 billion businesses paid out. Of course, the Trump administration found a work-around and immediately slapped on new tariffs and, on July 24, initiated levies of 10% and 12.5% on imported goods, including Swiss made watches. That's the day that Collective Horology and another importer (dealing in exotic spices), filed a lawsuit against the President and various bodies and individuals in the administration including U.S. Trade Representative Jamieson Greer. Rapkin tells us why his business decided to challenge the tariff laws and take on the President and his government while Albrecht lays out the legal argument driving their case. It's a matter of significant economic importance for U.S. business and the global watch industry.  Show Notes0:46 Lawsuit filed by Collective Horology et. al against President Donald Trump  1:13 Swiss Watch CEOs Plot Next Move As US Tariffs Threaten Industry Sales (Hodinkee)  2:24 Collective Horology website  3:42 Watch Industry Cheers Supreme Court Tariff Ruling But Faces More Uncertainty As Trump Vows Workaround (Hodinkee)  4:57 Liberty Justice Center  7:28 Forced Labour Section 301 (U.S. Trade Representative statement)  10:50 U.S. dollar x Swiss franc (Xe Currency)  11:37 J.N. Shapiro Watches website  11:50 The Watch Switzerland Can't Make - Karel Bachand (Barrelhand) - Openwork podcast  14:53 Rolex And Richemont Executives Among Swiss Business Leaders Meeting With Trump (Hodinkee)  18:31 Swiss-U.S. Trade Relations (SECO)  20:05 U.S. Court of International Trade  21:11 Jamieson Greer (Hodinkee)

    The Business of Watch [036] Collective Horology CEO Asher Rapkin And Liberty Justice Center Chairman and CEO Sara Albrecht On Suing Trump Over Tariffs

  8. Jul 29

    The Business of Watches [035] Christie's Remi Guillemin On The Fundamental Shifts In The Auction Market Driving Record Prices

    This week on The Business of Watches, we take stock at the halfway point of the year for watch auctions. Remi Guillemin, Christie's head of watches for the Americas, Europe and Middle East, gives us his take on what's driving the interest of the top watch collectors these days. It's a pivotal time, with the watch auction market setting record sales results at most of the top auction houses despite global economic challenges and geopolitical tensions and conflicts.   The last time the market was this hot was in the post-COVID era of 2021 and 2022. Guillemin believes this time is different, and he tells us why references from F.P. Journe and Cartier, and (surprise!) pocket watches, are driving the market these days and how that's a fundamental shift from the hype watch driven boom post-pandemic. He also shows us some of the watches in his personal collection and reveals the grail he's still chasing.  Show Notes 0:36 Remi Guillemin (Christie's website - scroll for bio) 1:00 Auctions: The Five Results That Actually Mattered, From The Spring 2026 Auction Season (Hodinkee) 3:08 Luxury Watch Sales at Auctions Drop 13% After Post-Covid Surge (SwissInfo/Bloomberg) 5:17 Revealed: A unique Audemars Piguet monopusher chronograph wristwatch unseen since its manufacture in the 1930s (Christie's) 5:49 Recent Daniel Roth Auction Results at Christie's 10:48 F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Reference T 14:37 Private Sales (Christie's) 17:23 Tiffany Blue Patek 5711 18:37 Cartier London Crash  20:42 Zuckerberg Wears $900,000 Watch To Announce End Of Meta Fact Checks (Bloomberg) 23:40 The A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase With Gold Flux Dial (Hodinkee) 29:36 Krayon Anywhere (Hodinkee) 30:34 Patek Philippe Reference 130 in steel (Hairspring) 35:15 French Soccer Legend Zinédine Zidane Talks Watches And Why He's Offering His First Cartier To A Special Charity Sale

    The Business of Watches [035] Christie's Remi Guillemin On The Fundamental Shifts In The Auction Market Driving Record Prices
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This is the main feed for all of Hodinkee's podcasts, from "Hodinkee Radio" to new and special presentations subscribe here for discussions about the latest watch releases, interviews with notable collectors, and a whole lot more.

Information

  • Creator
    HODINKEE
  • Years Active
    2018 - 2026
  • Episodes
    326
  • Rating
    Explicit
  • Copyright
    © 2024 HODINKEE Podcasts
  • Show Website
    HODINKEE Podcasts

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