Wines and Vines!

Vintality

Wines and Vines is a podcast for and about the wine industry. Talking farming, winemaking, and business with winemakers, farmers, and businesspeople. Whether you're in the wine industry or just passionate about wine, learn with us about the entire life cycle of the wine industry. This podcast is sponsored by Vintality is a supportive hub to help you realise all your vineyard aspirations using quantitative data gathering and analysis, precision viticulture tools, community connection with a love for terroir in its truest form. The future of farming is technological, and for us that means EC surveys and soil pits, bioavailability soil sampling, or mapping chlorophyll efficiency with drones. Pushing the edges of science and terroir to help you create better fruit more profitably. We also have a weekly newsletter with BC wine news, useful resources and interesting articles whether you’re on the business side, in the vineyard, or just passionate about wine. You can sign up at our website vintality.com. winesandvines.substack.com

Episodes

  1. 6d ago

    State of the Okanagan Wine Industry 2026

    Every year around this time I find myself doing the same thing - looking back over the season and trying to make some sense of it before the next one starts. A big part of this, and something I keep trying to increase our structure around, is sitting down with clients and going over everything that worked (and didn’t) last season. As part of this review process, we decided to get a couple of us together and think back through the year. This episode is our 2026 season retrospective. Addison, Mindy and I sat down to talk through what actually happened this year: the climate, lake levels, the impact of smoke (of course), a market splitting in two, and what all of it might mean heading into 2027. It’s long, it’s raw, and it’s tagged Explicit (Addison has opinions about forest management). A Season of Two Halves Up until August 7th this was shaping up to be one of the better years we’ve had in a while. Mildew and leafhopper pressure were down, the spring was steady and the fruit looked great. Then the Bald Range fire started west of Summerland and, well, you know the rest. Our thoughts are still with everyone in Summerland who lost so much. It was also very cool to see how much people came together. What surprised me going back through the PM2.5 data is that the smoke didn’t start with that fire. We were seeing it drift up from the US by mid-July, and between July 23 and August 28 there were 31 days with at least one reading at Unhealthy or worse. Summerland hit 1,105 on the US EPA’s air quality index (a scale that officially stops at 500). And smoke wasn’t the only story. Okanagan Lake is sitting at a historic low, Kalamalka dead-pooled this summer, and NOAA puts the odds of a strong El Niño this winter above 80%. You’ll hear Mindy get into what that likely means for heat, snowpack and water next year and why a mild winter forecast isn’t the same as a safe one (January 2024’s freeze came in an El Niño winter too). We also get into the market, and why the wineries obsessed with quality are the ones still investing (which is something we see in our own business). More on that in It’s Time to Ride the Wolf. Now, the Uncomfortable Bit I want to be upfront about something: there’s a lot we don’t know about smoke. We don’t have a threshold. A PM2.5 number tells you there was smoke in the air, not what ended up in the berry. Wes Zandberg’s lab has even been challenging the accepted model of how smoke gets into wine in the first place. That’s exactly why we’re part of the smoke study this year, to move from “there was smoke” to understanding how much, what the grapes did with it, and whether we can predict that from sensors. So I hold our take loosely. We could be wrong. But here’s the thing I keep coming back to. We’re hearing from smart people, good winemakers, experienced growers, that they don’t think their berries were badly affected. To us, that seems insane. The smoke sat in the valley for weeks. Ash was falling on cars. Everyone we’ve talked to who has tested has come back high. I don’t know how, if you farm in the Okanagan, you could have escaped it. Maybe they know something we don’t. Maybe there are sites, varieties or timings that came through better than the data suggests (if that exists…). If so, that would be fascinating and I want to see it. Disagree away, and send me your numbers if you do! But until someone shows me otherwise, I think the safer bet is to assume you were exposed and plan that way: in the cellar, in your marketing and in your business plan. That doesn’t mean telling the world the 2026 vintage is garbage. We need to turn this into something, and you can tell because some of the wineries that skipped wine in 2021 are making wine this year. Also, those that overproduced last year are sitting in a good position. What you say to consumers and what you plan for internally are two very different conversations. A Few Things Worth Doing Now * Get your frozen samples into the smoke study. At least 500 g per block, labelled with date, variety, location and intended use, then register your samples here. This is how we stop arguing from conviction (ours included). * Plan for a dry year. The Okanagan Basin Water Board is already warning about 2027. And check how deep your water is actually going - on the soil probes we had out this spring, not one irrigation set got below 60 cm. Most stopped around 40. * If you’re not sure where your blocks landed, get in touch. chris@vintality.com Chapters, corrections and sources are below. If this was useful, forward it to a grower or winemaker who’d get something out of it. And if you think we’re wrong about smoke, I’d love to hear it. Next episode: Meet the Team, the newest people at Vintality and one idea each brings from their past field to your vineyard. Show notes With * Addison Palmer, Viticulture Lead, Vintality * Mindy Mohammed, Lead, Crop & Climate Modelling, Vintality * Host: Christopher Mark, President, Vintality Chapters * 00:00 Cold open: “It’s gonna be hotter” * 00:13 Intro * 00:52 This episode is sponsored by Vintality * 01:11 A great season, then the smoke * 03:01 What the PM2.5 data shows: almost nobody escaped it * 04:48 Tasting smoke taint, MIPs and the cost of dropping fruit * 06:25 Two ways to attack it: the vineyard and the cellar * 07:35 Heads in the sand vs honest messaging * 09:10 “It’s gonna be hotter”: next year’s heat and fire * 11:43 El Niño years, GDD, Huglin and BEDD * 15:12 Freeze risk this winter * 17:18 A drier watershed and a lake at a historic low * 20:06 Agriculture’s water and the over-irrigation problem * 22:22 Mark Matthews and the one lever that works * 24:25 Shallow irrigation, shallow roots * 26:05 Plants are better at finding water than we think * 27:12 Mindy on watershed management and modelling * 30:37 The right technology in the right spot * 32:00 Riding the wolf: a market splitting in two * 34:11 Addison: who gets pushed over the ropes * 36:59 What could we have done differently? (Plus the BC smoke study) * 38:33 Mindy: wildfire mapping * 39:17 Addison: forest management * 40:32 Chris: the water-stress spike when the smoke lifts * 41:37 Outro Recorded October 9, 2026. Explicit. Corrections and notes We record these conversations raw and fix the facts here, not in the edit. Times match the chapters above. * 05:29 and 08:46, “MIPS”: these are molecularly imprinted polymers, a cellar treatment that strips smoke-derived volatile phenols from wine (University of Adelaide). * 08:56, “Bordeaux got smoked by fire this year too”: a fire of about 42,000 ha near Saumos, west of Bordeaux, started July 22. In August, the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux reported no vineyards affected and no impact on grape quality observed (Falstaff). Heat and drought were the bigger Bordeaux story. * 15:59, was 2023–24 El Niño or La Niña? El Niño, as Chris says at 16:40. So January 2024’s freeze came in an El Niño winter, and a mild winter forecast doesn’t rule one out. NOAA’s October 8 update has an El Niño Advisory, Niño-3.4 at +2.1 °C, and a strong to very strong El Niño likely through January–March 2027 (more than 83% chance) (NOAA CPC). * 17:48, Grand Forks had its water shut off this summer: we couldn’t confirm this before publishing. The 2026 curtailment we could document was on Bessette Creek near Lumby: 131 licences, ordered August 28 (Grand Forks Gazette). * 18:25, Okanagan Lake at a historic low: confirmed. The OBWB reported Okanagan Lake at a historic low for the time of year, and Kalamalka Lake dead-pooled this summer (Castanet). As of October 8, both lakes were still at record lows (Vernon Matters). * 18:37, Penticton 42%, Kelowna 47%, Vernon 60% of normal precipitation: we couldn’t find these figures in the OBWB drought bulletins or press coverage, so treat them as approximate. [Replace with the source if Addison has one.] * 20:10, “99%” of the valley’s water: in the OBWB’s Water Supply & Demand Study, agriculture is about 55% of all water use in the basin. All outdoor irrigation (farms, lawns, golf courses, parks) is about 86% (OBWB key findings). * 22:22, Mark A. Matthews: the book is Terroir and Oth… This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit winesandvines.substack.com

  2. Apr 2

    Better Wine. Less Water. (Video)

    Thanks to everyone who came out to the webinar, and the many emails asking for a video to follow up on. Here it is! You will find some context below, then a summary of highlights, and below that the transcript. Thibaut Scholasch & Fruition Sciences Thibaut Scholasch is the co-founder of Fruition Sciences, a plant physiology consultancy that uses high-level data and research to drive irrigation decisions in vineyards worldwide. Trained as a winemaker, Scholasch built Fruition’s methodology out of a conviction that wine quality is determined more by what happens in the vineyard than in the cellar. Their client list includes Château Lafleur in Pomerol, operations across Israel, South America, and California, and — closer to home — vineyards in the South Okanagan. Their peer-reviewed work on vine water status assessment (ex. Scholasch & Laurent 2023, IVES Technical Reviews) is among the most practically applicable research in the field. I used to reference it before ever meeting Thibaut. The Discussion We sat down with Thibaut to talk through the realities of irrigation management in the Osoyoos climate — a region he flagged as having evaporative demand comparable to Portugal and Israel, with less than 200–300 mm of rainfall over the growing season. The conversation covered Fruition’s framework for slicing the season into five physiological periods, each with distinct rules: where to push water deficit to drive tannin concentration (Period 3, berry set to véraison), and where to protect the vine from drought damage during ripening (Period 4). Michael Kullmann of Osoyoos LaRose joined to share their on-the-ground experience working with the system — including how they dropped potential alcohol from 16.5% to 14.5% in one vintage by tracking sugar loading and managing irrigation timing around heat waves. We also got into the mechanics of white vs. red irrigation strategy, canopy management as a lever for water demand, and why vine age fundamentally changes how fast you need to respond with irrigation. Full webinar here. A follow-up session is planned for the coming months. Webinar Highlights Key topics and timestamps from the “Better Wine, Less Water” webinar with Thibaut Scholasch (Fruition Sciences) and Chris (Vintality), featuring grower commentary from Michael Kullmann (Su Rose Winery, Osoyoos). 00:00:00 Introduction — Chris (Vintality) opens Chris introduces Thibaut Scholasch as co-founder of Fruition Sciences and the most influential researcher on vine irrigation he has encountered. He credits Thibaut’s accessible academic writing on irrigation and sensing technology as foundational to Vintality’s approach, and notes Fruition’s global client base spanning Israel, South America, California, and France. 00:01:45 Thibaut’s background — winemaker turned scientist Thibaut explains that Fruition Sciences’ methodology grew out of his training as a winemaker and a desire to improve wine quality beyond what is achievable in the cellar. The core ambition: establish direct causation between how a fruit ripens in the vineyard and what ends up in the bottle. 00:02:38 Global client context and Château Lafleur case study Fruition Sciences works primarily in arid regions (Douro Valley, Australia, Israel, Chile, California, Pomerol) but demonstrates that vine water-use monitoring applies even in non-irrigated areas, as it reveals vineyard fertility and quality-priming capacity. Château Lafleur (Pomerol) — which borders Pétrus — is highlighted as a client that stepped outside the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) regulatory framework to adopt data-driven irrigation in response to climate change, a collaboration Fruition has maintained for several years. 00:06:03 The four-step Fruition Sciences methodology The operating framework is structured in four steps: • Measure with purpose — collect data that directly informs a field action • Analyse — contextualise plant data to understand why the same soil moisture produces different outcomes across sites or vintages • Decide — account for current phenological stage and the memory of what the plant has experienced to date • Capitalise — assess whether the impact of each practice landed where expected, building institutional knowledge vintage over vintage The distinguishing principle: the plant is placed at the centre of all decisions rather than modelling environmental inputs. Because the vine is capable of self-training and physiological evolution, models built on weather, soil, rootstock, and variety will always lag behind what the plant is actually doing. 00:09:14 The five-period seasonal framework The growing season is divided into five physiological periods, each governed by different ecophysiological priorities and requiring different management rules. The framework applies to both red and white varieties; the difference is in the intensity and timing of interventions within it. • P1 — Winter rest to bud break: plant is highly sensitive to water and nitrogen deficiency • P2 — Shoot and flower development: monitor leaf area growth rate as an early proxy for nitrogen or water deficit • P3 — Fruit set to veraison (herbaceous growth): primary management window; sap flow is the key index; moderate water deficit trains plant drought resilience, determines total tannin and polyphenol content, and sets maximum berry size • P4 — Maturation (veraison to hydraulic disconnection): shift to protection; sugar mass loading tracked to detect hydraulic disconnection and manage harvest timing risk • P5 — Post hydraulic disconnection: irrigation via roots no longer reaches the berry; berry volume responds only to vapour pressure deficit (VPD) in the cluster microclimate 00:10:48 P3 as the critical quality window Period 3 (fruit set to veraison) is identified as the single most important window for wine quality intervention. Three specific objectives are active simultaneously: • Train the plant for drought and heat-wave resilience • Activate secondary metabolism — the total polyphenol and tannin potential is fixed by the end of P3 and cannot be increased later • Set the ceiling for maximum berry size (which determines the concentration potential heading into P4) Water deficit during P3 also synchronises berry-to-berry ripening under a common “clock,” producing more uniform harvest decisions and easier tank management. 00:14:57 Sugar loading and hydraulic disconnection — three transitions Thibaut describes three sequential hydraulic transitions as the berry matures: • Transition 1 (end of herbaceous growth / lag phase): water flow to the berry shifts from root-driven to phloem-driven (leaf-sourced sugary water) • Transition 2 (~21–22 Brix): phloem connection to the berry breaks; berry volume is now governed by atmospheric VPD only • Transition 3 (full hydraulic disconnection): irrigation has no further effect on fruit; the risk of rapid yield loss (20–40% overnight) from dehydration becomes acute Fruition Sciences uses sap flow sensors and sugar mass tracking (not sugar concentration/Brix alone) to detect the precise timing of these transitions. Knowing which transition the vineyard is in determines whether irrigation, misting, or canopy management is the appropriate response to an incoming heat wave. 00:16:18 Leaf area growth rate and canopy monitoring (P2) Leaf area growth rate is expressed in degree-days rather than calendar days, removing heat-accumulation variability. The result reveals two distinct growth phases after bud break: a rapid early phase where interventions (nitrogen, water) have maximum leverage, and a slow late phase (mid-June onward) where the same intervention produces negligible return. Intervening early — while canopy growth velocity is high — is the principle underpinning the “super early” action requirement in fast-accumulating climates like Osoyoos. 00:21:04 Sap flow measurement — how it works The sap flow sensor treats the vine’s vascular system as a series of articulated pipes. A small, precisely calibrated heat pulse is applied; the rate at which… This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit winesandvines.substack.com

About

Wines and Vines is a podcast for and about the wine industry. Talking farming, winemaking, and business with winemakers, farmers, and businesspeople. Whether you're in the wine industry or just passionate about wine, learn with us about the entire life cycle of the wine industry. This podcast is sponsored by Vintality is a supportive hub to help you realise all your vineyard aspirations using quantitative data gathering and analysis, precision viticulture tools, community connection with a love for terroir in its truest form. The future of farming is technological, and for us that means EC surveys and soil pits, bioavailability soil sampling, or mapping chlorophyll efficiency with drones. Pushing the edges of science and terroir to help you create better fruit more profitably. We also have a weekly newsletter with BC wine news, useful resources and interesting articles whether you’re on the business side, in the vineyard, or just passionate about wine. You can sign up at our website vintality.com. winesandvines.substack.com