The Broad Beta Podcast

Broad Beta

The Broad Beta Podcast and BroadBeta.com are spaces to share experiences of climbing, skiing, and other mountain adventures, from the ordinary to the heroic. Our contributors tell stories that foster wildness within, and outside, ourselves. Through these stories, we hope to inspire and empower anyone who listens.  Cover photo by @nathannorby of co-founder Jeannie Wall.

  1. Jul 20

    Andrea Hamilton Davis: Risk Tolerance as a Leadership Skill - An Interview

    She broke a legendary New Zealand endurance race record. She completed Eco Challenges in places like Australia, Patagonia, and Borneo. Then she walked into an even tougher arena: environmental governance. We’re joined by Andrea Hamilton Davis, an American expat who’s lived in New Zealand since the ‘90s, to unpack how a life built in wild terrain can shape the way you lead, decide, and collaborate as an environmental policy decision-maker. We get into what adventure racing really entails: navigation, discipline, and the ability to keep a team moving when everyone is sleep deprived. Andrea shares the practical side of performing for days with minimal rest, and how risk tolerance changes when you’ve spent decades managing real-time hazards in mountains, rivers, and storms.  Andrea explains why she went back for a graduate degree in environmental policy, what it’s like to serve on a regional council responsible for water, air, land, and farming impacts, and why trust and relationships matter as much as data. We also dig into unintended consequences in regulation, and why unlimited GDP growth collides with planetary boundaries. If you care about conservation, clean water, climate resilience, and how change actually happens, this conversation offers both realism and agency. Subscribe for more stories at the intersection of wilderness, leadership, and environmental action, share this episode with a friend who cares about the outdoors, and leave a review on Apple Podcasts or Spotify. What’s one belief you’ve changed after spending time in wild places? - Hosted by Jeannie Wall and Cat Coe Audio production by Cat Coe Music by Holizna Radio (intro and segues) and BOPD (conclusion). All music sourced from freemusicarchive.org. www.broadbeta.com

    Andrea Hamilton Davis: Risk Tolerance as a Leadership Skill - An Interview
  2. Apr 14

    Lyra Pierotti: Training for the Female Physiology - An Interview

    We sit down with IFMGA-certified mountain guide Lyra Pierotti, a rare blend of international guide, avalanche professional, and strength and conditioning specialist, to unpack what it actually takes to build a long career in the mountains. Lyra shares how she found her way to the Sierra and the French Alps in early adulthood, her path into the guiding world, plus the honest realities of paying for certifications, chasing seasonal work, and making “security” mean more than a paycheck. The conversation turns personal and practical as Lyra describes a major physical shutdown after a trip on Denali, the wake-up call of celiac-related inflammation, and the work of rebuilding toward true durability. We talk about why guiding is basically a high-volume endurance job, how climate change is reshaping glacier terrain and seasons, and why the old expectation of constant field days is fading. Then we get into the training details women athletes wish they’d learned earlier: why many women need focused strength and power work, how menstrual cycle phases can affect recovery and fueling, and how to keep it simple with an energy log, cycle awareness, and optional HRV tracking. If you want better performance in climbing, ski mountaineering, or uphill endurance without burning out, this one is for you. If it resonates, subscribe, share it with a training partner, and leave a review so more mountain athletes can find cycle-smart coaching and sustainable guiding stories. Check out Lyra's business Movementum Training Follow Lyra on instagram @pierotly Listen to another interview with Lyra on the Female Guides Requested podcast - Hosted by Jeannie Wall and Cat Coe Audio production by Cat Coe Episode cover photo by Mary Brown Music by Holizna Radio, Kirk Osamayo, and Ketsa, respectively. All music sourced from freemusicarchive.org. www.broadbeta.com

    Lyra Pierotti: Training for the Female Physiology - An Interview
  3. Mar 24

    Anna Pfaff: For the Joy of Climbing - An Interview

    Our guest is Anna Pfaff - an alpinist and expedition climber, and a critical care nurse. Anna has completed numerous expeditions and put up first ascents all over the world. Her resume includes the Great Trango Tower and The Nameless Tower in Pakistan, Shishapangma in Tibet, Holtana Peak in Antarctica, and most recently a new route on Mt. Providence in the Alaska Range. Anna became a nurse at 20, moved from rural Ohio to Denver, and accidentally found the thing that would reshape her whole life: climbing. What starts as tagging along to Indian Creek turns into a decades-long pursuit through Yosemite big walls, Patagonia seasons, and a travel nursing lifestyle designed around the mountains. We dig into the realities of making that life work, including stacking shifts, choosing contracts near climbing zones, and building the calm, people-first communication that both nursing and alpine climbing demand. Then Anna talks to us about her devastating frostbite injury after climbing Mt. Huntington in 2022. After the loss of six toes, she gives herself permission to walk away from climbing entirely. That honesty becomes the doorway back: easy gym laps in approach shoes, relearning balance without a big toe, and rebuilding confidence one small decision at a time. We talk about what risk management looks like after trauma, how partner communication changes, and why “turning around” can be the most professional move you make. We also get into the less visible side of being a professional climber in the outdoor industry: long-term sponsorship relationships, mentorship projects, guiding, public speaking, and the daily work of showing up as a solid teammate. If you care about alpine climbing, injury recovery, travel nursing, or simply living with more intention, this conversation stays with you. Subscribe, share it with a friend who needs a reset, leave a review, and tell us: what’s your personal rule for knowing when it’s time to keep going or turn back? https://www.annapfaff.com/ Watch the beautiful short documentary Anna about Anna and her injury Follow Anna on Instagram @pfaff_anna - Hosted by Jeannie Wall & Cat Coe Produced and edited by Cat Coe www.broadbeta.com

    Anna Pfaff: For the Joy of Climbing - An Interview
  4. Jan 13

    Arlene Blum: Breaking Trail, Building A Healthier World - An Interview

    A moonlit push up Mount Hood lit a lifelong fire—and it didn’t stop at the summit. Arlene Blum opens up about how a strict, postwar childhood, overprotective grandparents, and one ecstatic first climb shaped her habit of choosing new routes when the obvious path was closed to women. From organizing the first all-women ascent of Denali and leading a death-defying rescue, to launching a 15‑month “Endless Winter” of high altitude ascents, she shares how grief, sexism, and logistics became fuel rather than walls. Arlene explains how the death of her friend Bruce Carson motivated her to focus on children’s pajamas contaminated with carcinogenic flame retardants, and how one scientific paper—paired with national media—sparked sweeping change within months. Then came tougher terrain: outdated furniture and vehicle flammability standards that pushed toxic chemicals into couches and car seats with little fire safety benefit.  As founder of the Green Science Policy Institute, Arlene breaks down the playbook that works: rigorous research, clear recommendations, unlikely alliances with firefighters and consumer advocates, and a focus on safer design that stops fires before foam ignites. You’ll come away with a mountaineer’s approach to public health: define the summit, build a resilient team, pace for the long haul, and know when to change tactics. Arlene offers practical steps to cut exposure today—think fresh air in the car instead of recirculating—and offers several resources (listed below) for smarter choices and up-to-date science. It’s a conversation about optimism as a survival skill and how extraordinary persistence can out climb entrenched systems. If the episode resonated, subscribe, share it with a friend who loves mountains or public health, and leave a review to help more listeners find these stories. Links to more resources: www.ArleneBlum.com : Arlene's personal website with a photo library of her expeditions as well as links to her resources and talks related to both mountaineering and science www.SixClasses.org : four-minute videos that explain the six classes of chemicals of concern and how to avoid their use www.GreenSciencePolicy.org : facilitates safer use of chemicals to protect human and ecological health PFAScentral.org : all things PFAS chemicals, including a list of PFAS-free products - Episode hosted by Broad Beta co-founder Jeannie Wall and Cat Coe Episode produced and edited by Cat Coe Music by Holizna Radio (intro) and Kirk Osomayo (conclusion). Music sourced from www.freemusicarchive.org. www.broadbeta.com

    Arlene Blum: Breaking Trail, Building A Healthier World - An Interview
  5. 12/17/2025

    Amity Warme: Climbing as a Metaphor for Life - An Interview

    Does anyone know how to give'r more than Amity Warme? For a lesson in try-hard, search Book of Hate, Amity Warme on Youtube...right after you listen to this inspiring interview. Amity oozes with love for climbing and love for her fellow climbers, and if you see her at the crag, she wants you to come talk to her. And we can guarantee that if you do, she won't disappoint, she won't intimidate, and she will be psyched that you're outside, sharing in her boundless love for trying hard on rock. In this episode, Amity talks about climbing as a mirror for how we deal with hard things in life, being a role model for others as a sponsored climber, and drops some much-appreciated wisdom about nutrition for athletes. Amity grew up in Colorado and began climbing in college in Texas. She has since free climbed mega routes like Freerider (5.13a, 31 pitches), El Nino (5.13c, 25 pitches), Golden Gate (5.13a, 33 pitches), and the list goes on. With multiple 5.13+ and 5.14a sends on trad gear, she is easily one of the most impressive climbers on the planet.  Speaking of impressive feats, just last month Amity joined a short list of climbers who have freed the PreMuir Wall on El Cap: a 33 pitch 5.13c/d. Check out our short bonus episode where she tells us all about the unexpected ups and downs. When Amity isn't absolutely crushing hard trad routes, she is helping others do so as a Registered Dietician with a Master's in Sports Nutrition. Contact her via her website if you're interested in fueling to send like Amity! AmityWarme.com - athlete and dietician website Book of Hate video - don't miss this incredible short film of Amity sending Book of Hate (5.13d) (we refer to it several times in the interview) Cover photo courtesy of Ian Dzilenski @iandzilenski - Episode hosted by Broad Beta co-founder Jeannie Wall and Cat Coe Episode produced and edited by Cat Coe Music by Holizna Radio (intro) and Kirk Osomayo (conclusion). Music sourced from www.freemusicarchive.org. www.broadbeta.com

    Amity Warme: Climbing as a Metaphor for Life - An Interview
5
out of 5
12 Ratings

About

The Broad Beta Podcast and BroadBeta.com are spaces to share experiences of climbing, skiing, and other mountain adventures, from the ordinary to the heroic. Our contributors tell stories that foster wildness within, and outside, ourselves. Through these stories, we hope to inspire and empower anyone who listens.  Cover photo by @nathannorby of co-founder Jeannie Wall.

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