The Broad Beta Podcast

Broad Beta

The Broad Beta Podcast and BroadBeta.com are spaces to share experiences of climbing, skiing, and other mountain adventures, from the ordinary to the heroic. Our contributors tell stories that foster wildness within, and outside, ourselves. Through these stories, we hope to inspire and empower anyone who listens.  Cover photo by @nathannorby of co-founder Jeannie Wall.

  1. Anna Pfaff: Climbing for the Joy of Climbing - An Interview

    MAR 24

    Anna Pfaff: Climbing for the Joy of Climbing - An Interview

    Our guest is Anna Pfaff - an alpinist and expedition climber, and a critical care nurse. Anna has completed numerous expeditions and put up first ascents all over the world. Her resume includes the Great Trango Tower and The Nameless Tower in Pakistan, Shishapangma in Tibet, Holtana Peak in Antarctica, and most recently a new route on Mt. Providence in the Alaska Range. Anna became a nurse at 20, moved from rural Ohio to Denver, and accidentally found the thing that would reshape her whole life: climbing. What starts as tagging along to Indian Creek turns into a decades-long pursuit through Yosemite big walls, Patagonia seasons, and a travel nursing lifestyle designed around the mountains. We dig into the realities of making that life work, including stacking shifts, choosing contracts near climbing zones, and building the calm, people-first communication that both nursing and alpine climbing demand. Then Anna talks to us about her devastating frostbite injury after climbing Mt. Huntington in 2022. After the loss of six toes, she gives herself permission to walk away from climbing entirely. That honesty becomes the doorway back: easy gym laps in approach shoes, relearning balance without a big toe, and rebuilding confidence one small decision at a time. We talk about what risk management looks like after trauma, how partner communication changes, and why “turning around” can be the most professional move you make. We also get into the less visible side of being a professional climber in the outdoor industry: long-term sponsorship relationships, mentorship projects, guiding, public speaking, and the daily work of showing up as a solid teammate. If you care about alpine climbing, injury recovery, travel nursing, or simply living with more intention, this conversation stays with you. Subscribe, share it with a friend who needs a reset, leave a review, and tell us: what’s your personal rule for knowing when it’s time to keep going or turn back? https://www.annapfaff.com/ Watch the beautiful short documentary Anna about Anna and her injury Follow Anna on Instagram @pfaff_anna - Hosted by Jeannie Wall & Cat Coe Produced and edited by Cat Coe www. broadbeta.com

    1h 2m
  2. Arlene Blum: Breaking Trail, Building A Healthier World - An Interview

    JAN 13

    Arlene Blum: Breaking Trail, Building A Healthier World - An Interview

    A moonlit push up Mount Hood lit a lifelong fire—and it didn’t stop at the summit. Arlene Blum opens up about how a strict, postwar childhood, overprotective grandparents, and one ecstatic first climb shaped her habit of choosing new routes when the obvious path was closed to women. From organizing the first all-women ascent of Denali and leading a death-defying rescue, to launching a 15‑month “Endless Winter” of high altitude ascents, she shares how grief, sexism, and logistics became fuel rather than walls. Arlene explains how the death of her friend Bruce Carson motivated her to focus on children’s pajamas contaminated with carcinogenic flame retardants, and how one scientific paper—paired with national media—sparked sweeping change within months. Then came tougher terrain: outdated furniture and vehicle flammability standards that pushed toxic chemicals into couches and car seats with little fire safety benefit.  As founder of the Green Science Policy Institute, Arlene breaks down the playbook that works: rigorous research, clear recommendations, unlikely alliances with firefighters and consumer advocates, and a focus on safer design that stops fires before foam ignites. You’ll come away with a mountaineer’s approach to public health: define the summit, build a resilient team, pace for the long haul, and know when to change tactics. Arlene offers practical steps to cut exposure today—think fresh air in the car instead of recirculating—and offers several resources (listed below) for smarter choices and up-to-date science. It’s a conversation about optimism as a survival skill and how extraordinary persistence can out climb entrenched systems. If the episode resonated, subscribe, share it with a friend who loves mountains or public health, and leave a review to help more listeners find these stories. Links to more resources: www.ArleneBlum.com : Arlene's personal website with a photo library of her expeditions as well as links to her resources and talks related to both mountaineering and science www.SixClasses.org : four-minute videos that explain the six classes of chemicals of concern and how to avoid their use www.GreenSciencePolicy.org : facilitates safer use of chemicals to protect human and ecological health PFAScentral.org : all things PFAS chemicals, including a list of PFAS-free products - Episode hosted by Broad Beta co-founder Jeannie Wall and Cat Coe Episode produced and edited by Cat Coe Music by Holizna Radio (intro) and Kirk Osomayo (conclusion). Music sourced from www.freemusicarchive.org. www. broadbeta.com

    45 min
  3. Amity Warme: Climbing as a Metaphor for Life - An Interview

    12/17/2025

    Amity Warme: Climbing as a Metaphor for Life - An Interview

    Does anyone know how to give'r more than Amity Warme? For a lesson in try-hard, search Book of Hate, Amity Warme on Youtube...right after you listen to this inspiring interview. Amity oozes with love for climbing and love for her fellow climbers, and if you see her at the crag, she wants you to come talk to her. And we can guarantee that if you do, she won't disappoint, she won't intimidate, and she will be psyched that you're outside, sharing in her boundless love for trying hard on rock. In this episode, Amity talks about climbing as a mirror for how we deal with hard things in life, being a role model for others as a sponsored climber, and drops some much-appreciated wisdom about nutrition for athletes. Amity grew up in Colorado and began climbing in college in Texas. She has since free climbed mega routes like Freerider (5.13a, 31 pitches), El Nino (5.13c, 25 pitches), Golden Gate (5.13a, 33 pitches), and the list goes on. With multiple 5.13+ and 5.14a sends on trad gear, she is easily one of the most impressive climbers on the planet.  Speaking of impressive feats, just last month Amity joined a short list of climbers who have freed the PreMuir Wall on El Cap: a 33 pitch 5.13c/d. Check out our short bonus episode where she tells us all about the unexpected ups and downs. When Amity isn't absolutely crushing hard trad routes, she is helping others do so as a Registered Dietician with a Master's in Sports Nutrition. Contact her via her website if you're interested in fueling to send like Amity! AmityWarme.com - athlete and dietician website Book of Hate video - don't miss this incredible short film of Amity sending Book of Hate (5.13d) (we refer to it several times in the interview) Cover photo courtesy of Ian Dzilenski @iandzilenski - Episode hosted by Broad Beta co-founder Jeannie Wall and Cat Coe Episode produced and edited by Cat Coe Music by Holizna Radio (intro) and Kirk Osomayo (conclusion). Music sourced from www.freemusicarchive.org. www. broadbeta.com

    1 hr
  4. Roswitha McIntosh: From Hitler's Germany to Squaw Valley Ski Patrol - A Story

    10/07/2025

    Roswitha McIntosh: From Hitler's Germany to Squaw Valley Ski Patrol - A Story

    In this episode you'll hear 93-year-old Roswitha "Ros" McIntosh read her story, which was originally published on the Broad Beta website in May of 2025 (check it out here to see the photos of her skiing in Germany as a child). Ros was born in Germany during the Hitler years, and when she was a child they spent most nights in cold damp cellars while bombs leveled the city. Eventually, she and her family were allowed to move to their cabin. From their serene mountain top they witnessed the burning cities - the insanity of war - in stark contrast to the beauty of nature. Years later, Ros came to the United States on a scholarship. She graduated from Smith College and the Harvard/Radcliffe Program of Business Administration. Eventually, she turned her love of skiing into a job when she became the first woman to join the Squaw Valley ski patrol.  Ros is now retired after 25 years working as a consultant and writing for The Risk Management Manual.  She lives on the Pacific Coast in Alameda, California, and cherishes her daily two-mile walk along the beach, her regular ping pong and bridge games, and playing the piano. The first thing she does every morning is 40 minutes of Duolingo to practice French. But most important to her are her frequent trips to the mountains. At 93, she is still skiing, inspiring us all to never stop pursuing our love of the mountains.  - Story read by Roswitha McIntosh Episode produced and edited by Cat Coe Music by Holizna Radio (intro), Kirk Osomayo (segue) and Ketsa (conclusion), respectively. Music sourced from www.freemusicarchive.org. www. broadbeta.com

    14 min
5
out of 5
11 Ratings

About

The Broad Beta Podcast and BroadBeta.com are spaces to share experiences of climbing, skiing, and other mountain adventures, from the ordinary to the heroic. Our contributors tell stories that foster wildness within, and outside, ourselves. Through these stories, we hope to inspire and empower anyone who listens.  Cover photo by @nathannorby of co-founder Jeannie Wall.

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