That's Not Real Climbing

Jinni Xia
  • 4.8 (20)
  • SPORTS
  • UPDATED BIWEEKLY

A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing. Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport! For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.

  1. Mo Beck - UNRETIRING for the Paralympic Dreams

    1D AGO

    Mo Beck - UNRETIRING for the Paralympic Dreams

    Mo is a paraclimber in the AU2 class, and she is trying to qualify for the 2028 Paralympics! She has been climbing for over 22 years and had actually retired from competing…until hearing about the Paralympics. In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like climbing with a stump, whether outdoor, indoor, or comp setting is most friendly to her impairment, we’ll talk about petty drama in the community, and what sport shopping is in the Paralympics. Guest links: Mo’s Instagram Mo’s Website Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:18 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 1:59 - Lifting at a bro-y gym 3:28 - The 'stump' impairment 7:40 - Getting into climbing and competing 13:39 - Thoughts on gym setting for her stump 22:10 - Becoming a real sport means drama 28:16 - "Training" back then vs real training now 29:29 - World Cup appearances 2026 and 2027 30:55 - What we know about Paralympics qualifications 32:18 - How the Paralympics have changed paraclimbing 35:49 - Paralympic "Sport shopping" 38:09 - Heartbreak over which sport classes got chosen for the Paralympics 42:17 - What her training will look like to qualify at 39 years old 46:44 - Audience Q: What does the process look like to qualify for Paralympics? 48:59 - Dealing with comp nerves 50:49 - Is outdoor climbing more friendly for her stump? 52:38 - Outdoor projects and first ascents 58:00 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite comp memory? 1:01:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Podium cupcake story? 1:03:20 - AUDIENCE Q: Getting sponsored by North Face and tips for getting sponsors 1:06:20 - Words of wisdom and where to find Mo

    1h 9m
  2. Rachel Carr - No high-level FEMALE COACHES??

    FEB 2

    Rachel Carr - No high-level FEMALE COACHES??

    Rachel is a Team GB coach and also Erin McNeice’s personal coach! She started as an athlete and competed in youth worlds, but moved down the coaching path shortly after. In this episode, we’ll talk about performance anxiety as an athlete, the difficulties she faced being taken seriously as a young female coach, and we’ll get insight into team GB’s training as well as Erin’s insanely huge team of coaches. Guest links: Rachel’s Instagram Rachel’s Youtube Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:03 - Getting ready for British Bouldering Champs 4:41 - Performance anxiety as an athlete 8:59 - Being "realistic" on your performance 13:46 - Becoming a coach 15:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between coaching youth vs senior? 20:48 - Weirdness of coaching your past competition 23:47 - Lack of trust in female coaches 31:44 - AUDIENCE Q: What advice would you give to aspiring female coaches? 34:29 - Erin's crazy huge team of coaches! 40:23 - Team GB's philosophy on training style 43:48 - Erin's 1 weird weakness... 45:47 - Overrated and underrated training techniques? 50:17 - Climbing goals 53:57 - What's better than coaching at the Olympics? 56:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Why was GB Climbing funding so bad? 58:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Team GB is so strong right now, how has that impacted camaraderie amongst athletes? 1:03:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you coach the mental side of competition? 1:07:53 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you think new comps like PCL will impact the scene for athletes and coaches? 1:10:05 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for new coaches? 1:12:47 - Where to find Rachel

    1h 14m
  3. Emma Edwards - Prague Finals DISASTER!

    JAN 19

    Emma Edwards - Prague Finals DISASTER!

    Emma is a boulderer on Team GB. 2025 was her debut in the senior world cup circuit and she already made a world cup finals! However, if you don’t recognize her, it may be because that was Prague where her finals round got rained out. In this episode, we’ll go over ALL the mishaps that happened at Prague including an allergic reaction, and we’ll learn about her training schedule, team GB, the climbing culture in commercial gyms, and how often she goes through climbing shoes, which was MIND BLOWING. Guest links: Emma’s Instagram Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:31 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:11 - My annual stretching resolution 5:29 - Used to do 6 days on 1 day off?! 9:29 - Getting into climbing and competing 11:47 - First year in the Senior Circuit 14:28 - Starstruck warming up next to Miho & Janja 16:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Advice for youth climbers transitioning to senior? 17:02 - Climbing styles 20:12 - Prague allergic reaction disaster 24:59 - Prague finals getting rained out 27:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you feel about the mental side of comp climbing? 29:51 - Pretty decent prize money! :o 31:40 - Being a taller climber 32:45 - Team GB training in commercial gyms 38:09 - British Youtube + Zoella 39:47 - Season expectations? 42:14 - Toxic Gym Culture? 46:45 - Outdoor Climbing 47:55 - Enjoying sedentary activities 50:29 - Trying to balance training with school 53:27 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you decide what gyms to train at? 55:12 - AUDIENCE Q: Making climbing shoes last? 59:09 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite boulder from Brussels European cup? 1:00:35 - AUDIENCE Q: What's the difference between TC and world cups? 1:02:42 - AUDIENCE Q: Does your brother climb harder than you yet? 1:04:43 - Words of wisdom and where to find Emma

    1h 7m
  4. Charlie Boscoe - Founding a BRAND NEW Bouldering Series

    JAN 5

    Charlie Boscoe - Founding a BRAND NEW Bouldering Series

    This is Charlie’s second time on the podcast and he’s back with a big announcement! For those who aren’t familiar, Charlie preceded Matt Groom as the IFSC/World Climbing commentator. This time, he’s back to talk about the brand new competition series, Pro Climbing League. In this episode, we’ll go over all the details of what a PCL competition will look like, the challenges they faced the past 5 years putting this together, and I’m diving into all the finances as well. Guest links: PCL Website PCL Instagram Charlie’s Instagram Reference links: Solo Documentary (Kayaking Story) Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:33 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:13 - PCL test event 3:32 - IFSC/World Climbing Background 6:17 - What is Pro Climbing League? 11:18 - Live routesetting during a competition 15:21 - YOU may be able to compete! 19:25 - Hardest part of setting up a climbing league 24:25 - Why PCL was started 29:16 - AUDIENCE Q: What prompted the head to head format? 34:18 - AUDIENCE Q: Did you consult with athletes for this format? 40:00 - AUDIENCE Q: Challenges broadcasting this comp? 44:22 - Getting sponsor money for the league 47:08 - Most expensive part 53:00 - AUDIENCE Q: What will the prize money look like? 1:00:07 - I'm addicted to the concept of sports betting 1:05:08 - What does success look like? 1:08:51 - AUDIENCE Q: Future schedule and locations? 1:11:18 - AUDIENCE Q: What aspect of the format excited athletes the most? 1:14:16 - AUDIENCE Q: Will you use adjustable walls for the comp? 1:17:07 - Where to find PCL deets!

    1h 19m
  5. Declan Osgood & Zoe Yi - Fukuoka TEAM Climbing Event TELL-ALL

    12/01/2025

    Declan Osgood & Zoe Yi - Fukuoka TEAM Climbing Event TELL-ALL

    Declan and Zoe just competed at the Fukuoka exhibition team event for team USA where they climbed in all 5 boulder and lead rounds! In this episode, we’ll learn about their unorthodox climbing training program here in San Diego, how team selection and strategy worked at Fukuoka, and whether there was added pressure climbing with a team and coach present. Guest links: Declan’s Instagram Zoe’s Instagram Reference links: Fukuoka Competition Playlist Yank n yard stream: Highball boulders comp Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:03 - Starting climbing and competing 4:48 - Strength training BAD?! 10:18 - Japan traveling 11:50 - Fukuoka team event selection process 14:28 - Difficulty of the climbs 18:37 - Talking to the coach during the comp 20:59 - Pressure climbing with a coach and teammates 23:51 - Team competition strategies 28:08 - 5 rounds in 3 days 31:06 - First time competing on IFSC livestream 33:15 - The stress of youth competitions 35:34 - World Cup climbing is uncomfortable 40:23 - Lead vs boulder preference 44:37 - Future climbing + education goals 49:26 - Now we're just glazing San Diego 54:41 - Audience Q: Anything you would've wanted to change with the team event? 58:59 - AUDIENCE Q: Memories/advice from youth training? 1:02:17 - Being known as the "benchwarmers' benchwarmers" 1:03:08 - Outdoor goals 1:05:17 - Beating Elden Ring 1:06:28 - Relationship advice from 18 year olds! 1:09:13 - Words of wisdom + where to find Zoe and Declan

    1h 10m
  6. Hannes Van Duysen - Slab KING Feels Pressure

    11/17/2025

    Hannes Van Duysen - Slab KING Feels Pressure

    You may have heard of him as the slab master, but Hannes is a climber on Team Belgium who just recently got silver in boulder at Arco Rockmasters and also won a bronze in Innsbruck this past 2025 season! In this episode, we’ll go over his 2025 season, get his tips on slab climbing, and learn about how he tries to stay in the right mindset during stressful competitions. Guest links: Hannes’ Instagram Reference links: Amazing Arco Rockmaster Slab Top The Backflip of Anger Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:12 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 1:56 - Elbow surgery! 4:20 - Rockmasters reflection 10:55 - Getting into climbing and competing 15:27 - Transitioning out of youth comps 17:24 - 2025 season reflection 22:41 - Comps are going back to old-school climbs 26:08 - Instagram influencing world cups 28:44 - Staying in shape throughout a long competition season 32:10 - Lead vs boulder preference 35:43 - Training schedule + lifting vs gaining weight 43:12 - Pressure being the slab master 47:31 - Top slab tips 49:45 - The fickle mental game of comps 52:58 - Power of visualization for mindset 56:55 - The backflip of anger!! 1:00:16 - Taking his driving test 1:05:03 - 2026 goals 1:06:44 - AUDIENCE Q: What is the language situation in team Belgium? 1:09:37 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you think calisthenics/gymnastics is necessary now in comp climbing? 1:11:35 - AUDIENCE Q: How to stay calm during competitions? 1:16:43 - Words of wisdom + where to find Hannes

    1h 18m
  7. Ben Hanna - Self Medicating ADHD with Climbing

    10/27/2025

    Ben Hanna - Self Medicating ADHD with Climbing

    Ben is a climber on Team USA and hold shaper for Pusher holds! In this episode we’ll get some insight into the grades of world cup boulders, how depression, anxiety, and ADHD shapes his relationship with climbing, how he balances working as a routesetter with training, and get his thoughts on hold shaping. Guest links: Ben’s Instagram Reference links: Seoul World Champs Boulder Semis The Boss hold Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:10 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 1:53 - World champs experience 11:51 - Difficulty of semis boulders at world cups 18:33 - Getting into climbing and competing 22:36 - Climbing as self-medication for ADHD 30:20 - Training routine...or lack thereof 38:44 - Actually a lead climber 45:21 - MORE power boulders! 51:55 - Competitiveness with Colin 55:11 - Becoming a hold shaper 59:00 - Good holds vs bad holds 1:09:54 - Thoughts on no tex 1:20:05 - 2026 goals 1:21:56 - AUDIENCE Q: Did you really start climbing at 2? 1:26:19 - AUDIENCE Q: What kept you motivated to keep trying after failures at nationals 1:30:53 - AUDIENCE Q: What local climbers helped you growing up? 1:33:51 - Shoutouts + where to find Ben

    1h 36m
  8. Annie Sanders - EXCLUSIVE: 2025 IFSC Season Thoughts

    10/13/2025

    Annie Sanders - EXCLUSIVE: 2025 IFSC Season Thoughts

    Annie is a climber on Team USA and she had an amazing world cup season this year with 2 boulder golds and a lead gold and even more podiums! In this episode we’ll learn about what goes through her mind during her crazy beta breaks, what her training routine looks like, and how gym access really influences performance. Guest links: Annies’s Instagram Annie’s Xiaohungshu (red book) Reference links: Women’s Boulder Final Seoul World Champs Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 0:56 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 1:39 - Jetlag + travels 5:29 - Growing up in a climbing family 7:09 - Static + slow climbing style 10:07 - Regretting static beta breaks?? 12:08 - Timing out in lead 18:22 - 2026 goals 20:49 - Annie's training plan 24:32 - Lack of gym access 27:43 - Post-high school plans 30:22 - Outdoor climbing 33:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you still be an elite climber without passion? 35:43 - Audience Q: Mindset during comps? 41:36 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for endurance? 42:26 - Audience Q: Advice on how to break dynos? 43:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it hard previewing climbs with other athletes? 45:57 - Outro and where to find Annie

    48 min
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Ratings & Reviews

4.8
out of 5
20 Ratings

About

A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing. Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport! For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.

Information

  • Creator
    Jinni Xia
  • Years Active
    2023 - 2026
  • Episodes
    56
  • Rating
    Clean
  • Copyright
    © Jinni Xia 2023
  • Show Website
    That's Not Real Climbing

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