That's Not Real Climbing

Jinni Xia
  • 4.8 (22)
  • Sports
  • Updated Biweekly

A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing. Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport! For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.

  1. Aug 17

    Ella Fisher - No Fancy Training Facility? No Problem.

    Ella is a lead climber on team USA who made her first world series finals earlier this year in Prague! In this episode, we’ll learn about how she climbs the same lead routes all year round to train in Arizona, why she doesn’t want to move to Salt Lake City despite that, how a simple vitamin deficiency wrecked her body for a whole year, and how she went from placing 40th in world cups to making semis and finals in 1 year. Guest links: Ella's Instagram Reference links: Check out https://comp.rocks for climbing competitions near you! (Currently USA only) Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:42 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:33 - Preparing for Koper 10:36 - Starting climbing at 3 14:03 - Getting coached by her dad 20:09 - Fitness is all that matters for lead? 24:42 - Why she doesn't want to move to SLC 30:14 - Beta video before lead quails!!! 34:36 - Seeing a dyno in a lead route 35:58 - First WS finals experience 41:33 - 40th place to making finals in 1 year 44:38 - Training routine 49:52 - Ella LOVES autobelays! 57:13 - Youth climbers don't need to hang board 59:41 - A year of health issues 1:10:08 - Upcoming goals 1:13:25 - Balancing training with coaching and college 1:19:40 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you deal with pressure? 1:21:46 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you do fantasy climbing league? 1:22:58 - AUDIENCE Q: Would you ever go back to Schwandorf? 1:29:33 - Where to find Ella

    Ella Fisher - No Fancy Training Facility? No Problem.

  2. Jul 27

    Antasyafi Robby Al Hilmi - Indonesian Speed Climbing DOMINANCE

    Robby is a speed climber from Indonesia who has already gotten 2 silver medals in the world series season this year! In this episode, we’ll learn about the climbing scene in Indonesia, speed climbing rituals and whether they’re actually helpful, we’ll hear this thoughts on the 4 lane and speed relay formats, and we’ll get insight into how he got so good at speed climbing after only training it consistently for 3 years. Guest links: Robby's Instagram Reference links: Robby's favorite speed moment - Sam's WR Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:37 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:28 - Getting medals in Europe 3:51 - Only been seriously speed training for 3 years?! 10:33 - Breaking plateaus 15:26 - Ritual before each speed run 21:15 - What's more important: Speed or consistency? 22:58 - What speed training looks like 28:57 - Opinion on relay format 31:40 - How team selection works 37:23 - The surprises that come with 4 lanes 39:27 - Indonesia climbing scene 45:44 - 2027 goals and lessons from Sam Watson + Zhao Yicheng 51:17 - Olympic dreams 52:15 - Hobbies and studying 53:39 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you handle burnout? 56:57 - AUDIENCE Q: How did you improve so fast? 59:11 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you breathe during a speed run? 1:00:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you train other sports? 1:01:30 - AUDIENCE Q: Describe your previous coach? 1:03:48 - Where to find Robby

    Antasyafi Robby Al Hilmi - Indonesian Speed Climbing DOMINANCE

  3. Jul 13

    Meagan + C Lad - SPONSORED belayers?!

    Meagan Knecht and C Lad are both level 5 belayers in the USA who are also helping out with belay training videos for World Climbing. In this episode, we’ll debunk the myth that women can’t belay men or heavier climbers, we’ll learn about the problems with Assisted Braking Device (ABD)requirements in gyms, and of course, we'll talk about how to get into high level belaying and how they became SPONSORED belayers thanks to Trango. Guest links: USA Belay Instagram C Lad's Instagram Meagan's Instagram USA Belay YouTube Reference links: Wujiang 2025 Belayer Aiding Climber Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:29 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:19 - Excitement for Pan-American series 4:21 - Getting into climbing and belaying 14:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between an avg vs elite belayer? 20:26 - Work that allows the flexibility for travel 22:48 - How to get into belaying at a high level 27:43 - Setting the standard for World Climbing 34:36 - ATC vs ABDs in gyms 39:06 - The belayer's unique pivotal role 43:41 - Snugroping? 45:28 - Athlete interactions 48:00 - Dual-belay system 52:44 - Is it too late to become an Olympics belayer? 56:42 - Being sponsored as belayers 1:01:54 - Why is belaying para the best? 1:08:46 - Routesetting that makes belaying harder 1:14:25 - AUDIENCE Q: What's it like to walk up to an Olympian and belay them? 1:16:59 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite venue to belay at? 1:18:33 - Where to find the beladies and words of wisdom

    Meagan + C Lad - SPONSORED belayers?!

  4. Jun 29

    Max Ayrton - "Alternative" Climbing Moves Are SO In

    Max is a World Climbing routesetter from Great Britain who most recently set for the bouldering world series in Bern 2026 and will be setting for Salt Lake in October as well. In this episode, we’ll learn about hold shaping, what happened when the Bern finals boulders got leaked early online, whether world cup routesetters can actually climb the boulders they set, and we’ll hear about his extremely hot take on “alternative” climbing moves...I had no idea that he was the infamous cartwheel boulder setter. Guest links: Max's Instagram Reference links: Bern Women's M3 CWIF Cartwheel Boulder Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:28 - Climbing, competing, setting background 7:00 - World climbing setting levels 10:44 - Bern Finals boulders got leaked 15:24 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it easier setting in a climate-controlled venue? 18:24 - What is the perfect round? 22:02 - AUDIENCE Q: What guidance does world climbing give for setters? 24:19 - Forerunning process 29:26 - Setting "unconventional" moves 34:46 - OMG!! This is the OG cartwheel guy!! 38:00 - The divergence of indoor/comp climbing from outdoors 42:34 - Zones vs tops point change 44:53 - Starting Contact Holds with Alex Waterhouse 52:55 - AUDIENCE Q: What's Alex Waterhouse up to?! 54:26 - AUDIENCE Q: Is there any consideration for the belayer when setting? 59:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Planning vs improvising problems? 1:00:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Will the Christmas Yule log comp be on this year? 1:02:29 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite member of house 51? 1:03:21 - Words of wisdom and where to find Max

    Max Ayrton - "Alternative" Climbing Moves Are SO In

  5. Jun 15

    Samuel Richard - New School Climbers are LOCKED IN

    Sam is an 18 year old French boulderer who just recently won bronze at the 2026 Madrid world climbing series. You may also know him as the youngest person to ever do v17. In this episode, we’ll get insight into the world of new school climbing, how regimented routines and being locked in could push climbing further than ever before, and how he may want to just give up climbing one day. Guest links: Sam’s Youtube Sam’s Instagram Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:26 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:17 - Reflecting on Madrid World Series 6:40 - Can you see results in ISO? 9:31 - Starting climbing at age 2 12:46 - Climbing strengths and weaknesses 16:17 - Fearlessness for new school climbing 22:05 - French team training and powering out 24:30 - French Team Selection 29:36 - Qualis is the most physical round 31:37 - "Sam Richard" as a persona 35:19 - Getting energy from the audience 38:41 - Climbing journal 43:49 - Hot take: outdoor climbing is better than indoor? 51:35 - Youngest person to climb v17? 53:08 - Climbing optimization 57:13 - Quitting climbing for running... 1:01:39 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the transition from youth to senior? 1:05:13 - AUDIENCE Q: How to hype yourself up? 1:07:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the bromance between you, Mejdi, and Manu? 1:10:05 - Words of widsom and where to find Sam

    Samuel Richard - New School Climbers are LOCKED IN

  6. May 4 ·  Bonus

    Andy McVittie - The Kids are Climbing TOO MUCH!

    Andy is a climbing PT and this is his second time on the podcast. This time, he’s here with new research to talk about why youth climbers are maybe overdoing it with the climbing training, what early arthritis looks like, and the surprising dangers of outdoor climbing when it comes to competition climbers. Guest links: Website Instagram Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:05 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 1:45 - Spain trip and watching PCL 4:44 - Getting into climbing and PT 8:00 - Youth getting into competing more? 9:10 - Are youth climber overtraining? 11:28 - Outcome of growth plate fractures 16:43 - Youth Climbers very rarely get injured 21:28 - Youth climbers should not specialize in climbing 32:03 - What does arthritis look like? 37:00 - Is synovitis a sign of future arthritis? 38:55 - Injuries are actually coming from outdoor climbing.... 46:32 - Max Milne's Foot Injury 49:53 - Are injury rates increasing within comp climbers? 52:53 - AUDIENCE Q: Common adult injuries breaking into the comp scene? 59:48 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you even climb with hyper mobility? 1:06:54 - Words of wisdom and where to find Andy

    Andy McVittie - The Kids are Climbing TOO MUCH!

  7. Apr 27

    Emil + Felix Abrahamsson - ANNOUNCING Fantasy Climbing League!

    You likely know Emil from being one of the OG climbing Youtubers who has also competed in a few world cups for Sweden. With his brother, Felix, they have started a new Fantasy Climbing League platform! In this episode, we’ll learn about how the Fantasy Climbing League works, how they feel about sports gambling in climbing, who their top picks are for their teams, and their predictions for all things competition. Guest links: Fantasy Climbing League Site Emil’s Youtube Felix’s Instagram Emil’s Instagram Reference links: Boardclimbs App Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:01 - Living in Arco 5:22 - Starting climbing and competing 14:26 - Existential AI talk 17:14 - Fantasy Climbing League overview 21:10 - They've never played fantasy sports before!! 22:47 - Drafting strategy 25:37 - Are fantasy leagues gambling-adjacent?? 33:36 - Top picks of the season 42:07 - Are injury comebacks good picks? 45:13 - Janja vs Ai debate 52:26 - Will Tomoa have a downfall?! 1:00:03 - Tomoa v Meichi? 1:02:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What style of comp climbing would change the results the most? 1:10:21 - AUDIENCE Q: What will the future of comp climbing look like? 1:13:38 - AUDIENCE Q: What expectations should a comp beginner have? 1:18:04 - AUDIENCE Q: What's your favorite WoW dungeon? 1:19:05 - Join Fantasy Climbing League ASAP!!!

    Emil + Felix Abrahamsson - ANNOUNCING Fantasy Climbing League!

  8. Apr 13

    Sam Avezou - The SECRETS to French Climbing

    Sam is a French boulder and lead climber who has medals from several world cups and competed alongside his sister, Zelia at the Paris Olympics! In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like growing up in a climbing family, tips for climbing as a short king, why he struggled in the 2025 season, and how he self-coaches. Guest links: Sam’s Instagram Guitar Instagram Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:24 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:34 - His mother still competing at 42 years old 7:45 - Getting into climbing and competing 9:31 - AUDIENCE Q: Did growing up in a climbing family add pressure? 12:52 - Struggling between youth and senior circuits 16:51 - Rough 2025 season 22:53 - 2028 Olympics strategy 26:37 - Being a short king 31:34 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for short kings? 35:41 - Training with the French team 37:51 - AUDIENCE Q: how do you self coach? 41:21 - Training only with climbing 45:21 - Gyms worth visiting in Paris 47:05 - Secrets to French slab 51:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What are you thinking about when climbing? 56:06 - Mental game 58:41 - 2026 goals 1:01:22 - AUDIENCE Q: Playing guitar? 1:04:58 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you make a living climbing? 1:08:40 - AUDIENCE Q: How to gain finger strength? 1:12:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Recovery routine? 1:15:56 - Where to find Sam

    Sam Avezou - The SECRETS to French Climbing
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Ratings & Reviews

4.8
out of 5
22 Ratings

About

A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing. Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport! For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.

Information

  • Creator
    Jinni Xia
  • Years Active
    2023 - 2026
  • Episodes
    66
  • Rating
    Clean
  • Copyright
    © Jinni Xia 2023
  • Show Website
    That's Not Real Climbing

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