The Strong AF Climbing Podcast

Natasha Barnes

Climbing is a lifestyle sport. So how can you perform at your best, prevent injury, and improve your longevity in the sport all at the same time? This podcast is the answer. The Strong AF Climbing Podcast is for climbers who want to build strength to support climbing and become more resilient athletes. In this podcast, we’ll talk about all things strength training for climbers, rehab and managing climbing injuries! Hosted by Dr. Natasha Barnes, an elite athlete herself and strength and rehab coach for climbers. Listen to the podcast and hop aboard the gainz train!

  1. JAN 28

    30. The Weight Loss Double Standard Climbers Don't Talk About

    The Strength-to-Weight Ratio Debate: Why "Just Get Lighter" is as Oversimplified advice. Climbers often dismiss strength training for not transferring directly to climbing performance—but then turn around and treat weight loss as if it automatically makes you climb better. In this episode, we break down the irony in the strength-to-weight ratio debate and explain why both approaches are oversimplifications. You'll learn: Why strength training and weight loss are both indirect levers (and neither replaces time on the wall)How building capacity through strength training supports climbing performance, recovery, and injury preventionWhy chasing weight loss often reduces training capacity instead of improving itWhat elite climbers can (and can't) teach us about trainingWhen strength training or weight loss actually work as performance leversWhat moves the needle for most climbers (hint: it's not one magic variable)If you've been stuck on a plateau, constantly injured, or wondering whether you should focus on getting stronger or getting lighter—this episode will help you think more clearly about what actually supports long-term climbing performance. Keywords: strength training for climbers, climbing performance, strength to weight ratio, climbing training, capacity building, climbing injury prevention, weight loss for climbers, climbing plateau, elite climbers, rock climbing training, foundational strength, climbing recovery Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation or Rehab Coaching Train with me  My Website

    17 min
  2. 12/02/2025

    28. What Your Body Is Trying to Tell You: Somatic Therapy, Pain, and Rehab

    In this episode, I sit down with my friend and client Dani, a somatic psychotherapist and climber, to talk about how the body and mind communicate — and what it really means to feel your feelings. Dani shares how her own journey through chronic illness, trauma, and movement led her into somatic therapy, and we explore the deep overlap between her work and the kind of pain science–based rehab I do with climbers. We talk about why so many people struggle to slow down, why emotions show up as physical sensations, and how both somatic therapy and strength training can help you rebuild trust with your body. Whether you’re navigating pain, dealing with stress, or just curious about what it means to actually “listen to your body,” this episode will help you see how awareness, curiosity, and compassion can change the way you move — and the way you heal. WE TALK ABOUT: What somatic therapy really is (and why it’s not just for trauma work) The connection between emotions, sensations, and pain Why we tend to intellectualize our feelings instead of feeling them The role of awareness and curiosity in both therapy and rehab How pain stories and beliefs shape the way we experience symptoms The concept of allostatic load and how life stressors impact recovery Overlaps between pain reprocessing, graded exposure, and nervous system regulation Practical tools: the feelings wheel, body sensation lists, grounding and self-hold techniques, and how to start a dialogue with your body Why climbers might already be practicing somatic therapy on the wall — and how to bring more awareness to it Healing isn’t just about fixing tissue or solving a movement pattern — it’s about learning to listen, slow down, and rebuild trust in your body. Somatic therapy gives language and space to sensations, while strength training and rehab build the capacity to act within that space. Both help you reconnect with your body instead of fighting against it. CONNECT WITH DANI: 🔗 somaticswithdani.com📱 Instagram: @somaticswithdanni Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation or Rehab Coaching Train with me  My Website

    1h 8m
  3. 11/18/2025

    27. Muscle Imbalances in Climbers: What’s Normal, What Isn’t, and What Actually Matters

    This episode breaks down the truth about muscle imbalances and asymmetry in athletes. Natasha and Ryan explore why asymmetry is normal, why it often gets blamed for injuries without evidence, and why strength training and load tolerance matter far more than chasing perfect symmetry. They walk through current research, explain how injuries change asymmetry rather than the other way around, and discuss why the best rehab focuses on building strength, restoring confidence, and exposing the body to sport-specific loads instead of “fixing imbalances.” TAKEAWAYS: • Research consistently shows that asymmetries increase after injury, not usually before.• Small side-to-side differences are normal in climbers and most athletes.• Asymmetry rarely predicts injury on its own.• Chasing perfect symmetry distracts from the real rehab goal: restoring load tolerance.• Training at a challenging but tolerable intensity often reduces perceived imbalances.• Most “imbalances” resolve as strength and confidence return.• Regular exposure to climbing-specific forces matters more than corrective exercises.• Functional strength and movement quality are better benchmarks than symmetry numbers.• Pain, deconditioning, and fear can create the sensation of imbalance.• You are not broken for feeling uneven. It’s a normal adaptation to training or injury. Follow Ryan on Instagram Ryan's website Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation or Rehab Coaching Train with me  My Website

    1h 32m
  4. 09/04/2025

    24. Shoulder Series Part III - Rethinking rehab & surgery for shoulder pain

    In this episode, I unpack why traditional shoulder rehab often fails climbers — and how to rethink the entire approach. Using guided reasoning and evidence from leading studies, we challenge the most common myths about shoulder pain and rotator cuff injuries. You’ll learn: 🔹 Why rest and avoidance aren’t the answer We explore why rest often leads to temporary relief but long-term setbacks — and how graded loading is the true medicine for shoulder pain. 🔹 The problem with “banded exercises forever” Progressive overload matters. We break down what kind of exercise actually works — and what the latest research says about exercise. 🔹 How to train through pain — safely and effectively We dig into the Smith et al. meta-analysis showing that tolerable pain during rehab isn’t harmful — and may even improve outcomes when managed correctly. 🔹 Why surgery isn't the gold standard — and might not be necessary at all We review landmark studies showing that: Pain does not correlate with tear size (Dunn et al.) Most small-to-medium rotator cuff tears can be rehabbed without surgery (Moosmayer et al., Kukkonen et al., Karjalainen et al.) Even full-thickness traumatic tears respond well to rehab (Boorman et al., Kuhn et al.) Failed surgical repairs don’t always lead to worse outcomes (Holtedahl et al.) Sham surgeries work just as well as real ones (Paavola et al., Schroder et al.) 🔹 What effective rehab actually looks like for climbers We close the episode by showing what real rehab should include: climbing-specific loading, total-body strength, education around pain, and a progressive plan that actually builds capacity instead of avoiding discomfort. This episode is packed with practical insights and paradigm-shifting takeaways that will help you — or your clients — stop spinning their wheels and start seeing real progress. 🎧 Hit play now and find out why your shoulder rehab hasn’t been working — and what to do instead. Follow me on Instagram Join the Foundational Strength Program Book an Injury Consultation Train with me  My Website

    1h 11m

Ratings & Reviews

5
out of 5
19 Ratings

About

Climbing is a lifestyle sport. So how can you perform at your best, prevent injury, and improve your longevity in the sport all at the same time? This podcast is the answer. The Strong AF Climbing Podcast is for climbers who want to build strength to support climbing and become more resilient athletes. In this podcast, we’ll talk about all things strength training for climbers, rehab and managing climbing injuries! Hosted by Dr. Natasha Barnes, an elite athlete herself and strength and rehab coach for climbers. Listen to the podcast and hop aboard the gainz train!

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