Episode Description: Join us as we explore the world of Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT) and Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP) flooring. We break down the different types of LVT, from flexible glue-down to rigid core click-lock systems. Learn essential tips for subfloor preparation, including how to handle wood and concrete, the critical difference between flat and level, and how to tackle moisture issues that can derail your project. We'll guide you through the installation process for both click-lock and glue-down methods, emphasizing the importance of acclimation and perimeter gaps. Plus, we cover common troubleshooting steps and define key construction terms like plumb, level, and square. Whether you're a DIYer or a pro, this episode is packed with insights for a successful LVT installation. In this episode, we cover: *What is LVT/LVP?** * Made with PVC and plasticizers, making them flexible. *LVT** (Luxury Vinyl Tile) and LVP (Luxury Vinyl Plank) refer to the size difference, with plank designation being for size. *Types of LVT Installation:** *Click System:** Planks lock together without mortar or glue. It's a unique system where you take planks out of the box, click them together, and they are in place. This system creates a water-resistant floor when locked together tightly. *Rigid Core LVT:** A newer type that adds a structural element to the vinyl tile. It is a floating floor, potentially saving on demo or prep of existing hard surfaces. It often includes sound dampening capabilities. *Glue Down:** Involves applying adhesive to the subfloor. Requires subfloor preparation like putting down plywood underlay and patching. *Benefits of LVT:** *Durability:** Known for durability with a lifespan of 10-20 years. Has superior strength against wear, tear, and moisture. *Easy Installation:** The click-lock system is DIY-friendly. Glue-down can also be achieved by a novice. *Cost-Effective:** Generally less expensive than tile, stone, or terrazzo, especially considering installation costs and time. Installation labor is typically significantly less. *Low Maintenance:** Does not require waxing, resealing, or stripping. The manufactured finish is the final finish. *Variety of Designs:** Available in a wide range of designs, including realistic wood, stone, and tile looks. *Understanding LVT Structure:** * A multi-layered product. * Includes a vinyl core (or base layer) for stability. * A print layer for the desired aesthetic. A *wear layer** to protect from wear and tear; thickness impacts durability against scratches and stains. Heavier wear layers are needed for commercial use compared to residential. * A top coat for UV protection and finish. * Rigid core materials have an additional rigid core layer underneath the vinyl core. Some rigid core materials also have a sound dampening layer. *Subfloor Preparation - The Key to Success:** * Preparation is crucial for any installation. Subfloor must be *smooth, flat, and level**. Imperfections can show through or cause tension. * You can't have bumps or humps underneath LVT. LVT is pliable, and imperfections can show as you walk on the floor. * Tension created by dips and bumps can cause the click-lock system to come undone or break, leading to tenting and tiles pulling apart. *Flatness vs. Level:** It's critical to understand they are not the same. *Level:** Horizontally aligned with gravity. Used to establish pitch for slanted surfaces or describes a flat surface with no irregularities in concrete work. *Flat:** A smooth, even surface without dips or bumps. Flatness is what matters most for LVT. Typical requirement is 1/8 inch in 10 feet. *Wood Floors:** Use a scraper or hammer to deal with screws or nails popping up. Prep seams of plywood with a patch material. Patch low spots to avoid hollow spots underfoot. Use a level to check for light between the level and subfloor; any gaps should be filled. Serious issues may require self-leveling. *Concrete Floors:** Check for flatness even if it seems flat. Any variations need to be filled with patch or self-leveling material. Most of the time won't have screws. *Moisture Issues (especially with Concrete):** * Excess moisture adversely affects flooring. It can compromise the flooring's integrity. * Moisture issues can lead to warping, mildew growth, and problems with planks separating or tenting. * Before 1979, petroleum-based cutback adhesives were durable and water-resistant. Low VOC formulations introduced later could not hold up under high moisture environments, increasing moisture failures. * Technology advancements are helping solve moisture issues without creating adverse air quality problems. * ASTM International Standard F710 is a common reference for preparing concrete floors, including installing a moisture barrier, cleaning/testing the slab, and ensuring materials/environment are acclimated. * For new construction, an effective, permanent moisture vapor retarder (flexible plastic sheet) should be placed under the slab (ASTM 1745). Most manufacturers suggest Class B or better. Permeance, tensile strength, and puncture resistance define the classes. * For existing structures, the slab should be clean, free of residue (including cut back adhesive), dry, and structurally sound. *Testing for Moisture:** The moisture level is composed of three readings: relative humidity, moisture vapor emission rate, and/or pH. *Relative Humidity (RH):** Percentage of moisture within a slab relative to how much it could hold. Tested by drilling into the slab and using a sensor. Most LVT manufacturers warranty installations on concrete substrates with a maximum RH of 85% using an probe test (ASTM F2170). Wood substrates can use an RH meter. *Moisture Vapor Emission Rate (MVER):** Also called a calcium chloride test; measures surface moisture. Performed by sealing calcium chloride on concrete under a dome for three days and weighing the moisture absorbed. *Potential Hydrogen (pH):** Scale of 0-14. Fresh concrete is usually 12-13, moving lower as it cures. High moisture means higher pH. Test pH when choosing adhesives, especially for existing structures. Can use paper testing strips. *What Goes Wrong:** High RH or MVER with the wrong adhesive can cause it to emulsify, ooze at seams, and the floor to curl, bubble, emit odor, or be easily displaced. Water will find a way out. *New vs. Older Slabs:** New slabs start at 100% RH and should decrease as they cure. Older slabs can have high RH due to hydrostatic pressure (below water table), poor drainage, or leaks. High RH in an old slab may require finding the source of moisture. *Solving Moisture Issues:** Options include chemical sealants (check compatibility with adhesive/warranty), moisture suppressant systems (check adhesive/flooring compatibility), moisture resistant adhesives (spray, trowel, peel and bond), or dry installation using tabs or a floating/interlocking floor. Dry installation is an option with elevated moisture readings. Tabs often require no moisture testing, and most floating/click installations are 90%+ RH compatible. *Acclimation:** * Always required with LVT. * Allows the material to adjust to the temperature and humidity of the installation space. Drastic temperature changes can cause havoc. * Acclimate for 24 to 48 hours ahead of time. Some recommendations are 48-72 hours. * Store LVT in the installation space at stable temperature (typically 65-85°F) and humidity (35-65%). * Proper acclimation ensures a stable, long-lasting installation. *Layout and Installation (Click-Lock):** * Layout is crucial for a professional look. *Critical:** Leaving a gap around the perimeter of the room. Tension from temperature changes needs room; no gap can cause tinting, click system pulling apart, or flooring coming up. Read directions for suggested gap size. Spacers can help maintain the gap. * The gap can be covered by baseboard installed on top of the floor (if baseboard is not yet installed) or by quarter round/shoe molding (if baseboard is existing). * Make sure the short end of the LVT is against your starting wall. * Fit the tongue and groove system together, lay them down, click into place, and adjust. Locks together tight, creating a water-resistant floor. * Damaged pieces should be laid aside and used for cuts. *Cutting:** Can use hand tools, a carpenter's miter box, or a razor knife. Strike your line, cut with a razor knife, and pop the material. * Any cut tiles go at the end of the room or around a wall and should be covered by base or shoe molding. *Working Backwards:** The click system allows you to lift a tile and slide it to adjust. *Head Joints:** Can be tricky. If there's a gap after laying, a rubber mallet can help; tap the end of the LVT carefully to pop it in. Be careful to protect the tongue and groove system. *Installation (Glue-Down):** * Requires a plywood underlay down on OSB or plywood. Need to patch joints and big gaps with water patch. Apply patch thinly or in multiple coats. Let it dry and sand. * Ensure material sits under door jams; cut jams if needed. * Apply the recommended glue using a trowel. Work from one corner up. Avoid thick spots. Glue should be sticky when set. Pressure-sensitive glue sticks more the more you push on it. * Cut edges towards the wall. Wipe glue off immediately if needed. * Cutting can be done with a guillotine, square and sharp knife. Score the material and bend it to snap. * May need creative techniques to keep rows straight, especially when continuing from an old floor. * Sometimes easier to cover obstructions like vents and cut them out afterwards. *Expansion Gaps and Transition Strips:** * Leaving a space around the perimeter is critical. This gap allows for expansion and contraction, preventing issues. * A perimeter gap is typically 1/4 to 1/2 inch, depending on the manufacturer. * Gap should be left around edges of the room and covered by baseboards or trim. Don't forget kitchen islands. * Transition strips can be used for expansion
