A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves

Dave
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Join Dave, a surfer who's spent years traveling the world, living the surf-optimized life. "A Surfer's Notebook" is his collection of true stories and personal reflections from that journey. Beyond perfect waves, Dave shares insights on surf culture, analyzes interesting breaks, describes unforgettable characters, and explores the unexpected connections he's found along the way – from the physics of a wave to the flexibility of a foot.

  1. 11/05/2025

    28 - Tipping Point

    Once I knew what to look for I started recognizing tipping points everywhere. I found the first one on the mountainside in rural Japan but realized I'd experienced one just a few days earlier in the water, during the height of the typhoon swell. Both were tests I'd have to face on my own.

    17 min

  2. 10/29/2025

    27 - Miyazaki By Van

    What's it like to live in the "Wave Hunter" and surf typhoon swells in Japan? Follow the ups and downs of this eventful week on the Miyazaki coast.

    54 min

  3. 10/22/2025

    26 - Planting The Seed

    Today we are kicking of the Japan series... which includes multiple notes from my extended stay and extensive search for surf in Japan. This first note covers how I came to decide that spending several months in Japan to find my stoke would be a good idea...

    23 min

  4. 10/15/2025

    25 - The Arc of A Swell

    Each swell follows a predictable arc that plays out in the surf community. Here's how it goes... Read this note and see pics and diagrams here: https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/the-arc-of-a-swell/

    13 min

  5. 10/08/2025

    24 - Dreaming of Surf

    Why can't I come to terms with "surf dreams"? Read it here: https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/dreaming-of-surf/

    7 min

  6. 10/01/2025

    23 - Central American Summer Pt. 3 - Going Wild in The Streets

    What happens when a young group of 20 year-old men, heavily influenced by surf culture of the 2000's, rent an apartment in Costa Rica for a month? A lot can happen... including one short moment that would change the trajectory of my life. Drop out and tune in. To read and see pics, visit: https://surfersnotebook.com/central-america-summers-pt-3-going-wild-in-the-streets

    30 min

  7. 09/24/2025

    22 - Central American Summer Pt. 2 - Nicaragua: The Interior

    What kind of trouble can a gringo get into when they get setup with a host family in rural Nicaragua? Listen in to find out. To read this note and see pictures, visit: https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/central-american-summer-pt-2-nicaragua-the-interior/

    42 min

  8. 09/17/2025

    21 - Central American Summer Pt. 1 - Venturing Beyond The Bubble

    This week we're going waaayyyyy back! All the way to my first surf trip - a high school graduation venture to Panama which would kick off a 3-summer run of Central American adventures. Some things lined up nicely, some things went terribly wrong. Listen in to hear about the rollercoaster ride. To read this note, visit: https://surfersnotebook.com/central-american-summer-pt-1-venturing-beyond-the-bubble

    26 min
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About

Join Dave, a surfer who's spent years traveling the world, living the surf-optimized life. "A Surfer's Notebook" is his collection of true stories and personal reflections from that journey. Beyond perfect waves, Dave shares insights on surf culture, analyzes interesting breaks, describes unforgettable characters, and explores the unexpected connections he's found along the way – from the physics of a wave to the flexibility of a foot.

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