Welcome to the Fashion Deep Dive. This episode, we dive into the monumental shifts rocking the luxury fashion world, focusing on the dramatic creative transitions at Bottega Veneta and, most significantly, Chanel. First, we explore Bottega Veneta's evolution from the "artistic, craft-focused vision" of Matthieu Blazy to the "understated, intellectual chic" of Louise Trotter. Blazy's impactful, albeit short, tenure was defined by "reverence for craft, movement, and a concept he called 'quiet power'," leading to cult classics like his "leather denim" trousers. His departure was seen as a "significant loss of a unique and powerful creative voice". Louise Trotter, lauded for her work at Joseph and Lacoste, is celebrated as the "queen of understated chic," bringing a "sophisticated, minimalist, and intelligently designed" aesthetic focused on "real, desirable clothes for a modern woman's wardrobe". She is expected to bring a "sharp focus to creating a sophisticated and highly functional wardrobe".Then, we turn to the most anticipated change in the industry: the end of an era at Chanel. We discuss Virginie Viard's "complex and often debated" legacy as Karl Lagerfeld's handpicked successor, primarily serving as a "custodian" of the house's codes. Despite achieving record sales during her tenure, her work often received "lukewarm" critical reception, with many feeling her collections "lacked the energy, fantasy, and sharp, forward-thinking vision of her predecessor," making her departure "long-awaited". The conversation then shifts to the blockbuster appointment of Matthieu Blazy to "the most vied-for job in the industry" at Chanel. Blazy, celebrated as "Bottega Veneta's prince of artful luxury," is known for his "stealth wealth" aesthetic, "artistic innovation," and "sublimely crafted" pieces, positioning him as a "visionary" rather than a custodian. However, Blazy faces astronomically high stakes for his October debut. Following Viard's departure, Chanel's in-house creative studio delivered a series of critically triumphant collections, including Fall 2024 Haute Couture and subsequent 2025 collections. These atelier-led creations were praised for their "lightness, precision, and renewed focus on the clothes," with many critics noting they "felt like a return to the spirit and sharpness of the Lagerfeld era". This unprecedented success acts as a "perfect 'palate cleanser'" but raises the bar immensely for Blazy. He's not just following a critically lukewarm predecessor; he's "following a collection that was a critical triumph" and inheriting a house where the in-house team has proven "they can deliver critically acclaimed fashion that resonates with the brand's DNA". The pressure is on for Blazy to demonstrate that his "singular vision is even more compelling" than the already winning in-house team, with all eyes on him to "truly launch the next great era of Chanel".
