I always had a crush on Hárslevelű, the aromatic backbone of the Tokaji Aszu blend. However, this grape deserves much more attention than it gets, especially in a dry style, where it really performs when made by talented winemakers like Demeter Zoltán. Get more from my wine journey on Instagram 📷 Instagram Wine Tasted Demeter Zoltán Szerelmi Hárslevelű 2024 Demeter Zoltán Winery Website Description Hárslevelű is Tokaj's second white after Furmint, widely known as the aromatic backbone of Tokaji Aszú, yet far too rarely drunk as a dry wine in its own right. The name explains the wine: hárs is the linden tree, levelű means leaved, so this is the linden-leaved grape, named both for the rounded leaf in the canopy and for the acacia honey, linden and pine-needle aromatics in the glass. The linden itself carries weight in European folklore as the tree villages gathered under to hold court and sign peace treaties, and, in literature again and again, as the place where people fall in love. The bottle is a single-vineyard 2024 from Demeter Zoltán, who together with István Szepsy pioneered dry winemaking in a region the world had only ever known for its sweet wines. The fruit comes from Szerelmi, from szerelem, Hungarian for love, so loosely the lovers' vineyard. The Demeter name is a coincidence rather than a nod to the biodynamic body: it is an occasional Hungarian given name, the equivalent of the Greek Dimitris. He works largely by hand and aims to draw out the character of each site individually, from a cellar in a house dating to 1790 in the village of Tokaj, where visits and tastings are worth booking ahead. In the glass the colour is deep yellow with golden reflections, and the wine carries 14.5 percent alcohol, fully dry but a clear signal that Tokaj is moderate to warm rather than cool, which is exactly why noble rot and its dessert wines work so well here. The nose brings peach and ripeness, the linden and pine-needle signature, herbal hints and a faintly oily richness, with malolactic and lees-contact depth adding a savoury, almost parmesan note. The palate is salty, fresh and mineral, the alcohol well integrated rather than hot, with a firm acid backbone. A wine to spend a whole evening with, and a reminder of how good this grape is when taken seriously.