The PMU Standard

MIchelle Rukny

THE PMU STANDARD by AAM is a leadership podcast for permanent makeup professionals navigating a changing industry. Hosted by Michelle Rukny, President of the American Academy of Micropigmentation @aampmuboard, the show explores industry standards, permanent makeup business realities, professionalism, and long-term sustainability without hype, fear, or shortcuts. This is not a technique podcast. It’s a reality-based conversation about building careers that last.

  1. 2d ago

    Episode 26: Caffeine and PMU: What the Research Actually Says

    Caffeine and PMU: What the Research Actually Says Should clients really skip coffee before a permanent makeup appointment? The answer may be different from what you've been taught. In this episode of The PMU Standard, AAM President and Director of Operations Michelle Rukny takes a closer look at one of the most common PMU pre-care rules: no caffeine before your appointment. Unlike alcohol, caffeine is not an anticoagulant, and research does not support the idea that a normal cup of coffee automatically causes increased bleeding or makes every client more sensitive to pain. But that doesn't mean caffeine has no effect on a PMU appointment. Michelle breaks down how caffeine affects the nervous system, why some clients experience anxiety, shakiness, restlessness, or an increased heart rate, and why those individual responses matter when performing precision work. She also explains why energy drinks deserve their own conversation and why telling habitual coffee drinkers to suddenly eliminate caffeine can sometimes create a different problem: caffeine withdrawal. In this episode: • Why caffeine and alcohol should not be treated the same way• What research says about caffeine and platelet function• Whether caffeine actually increases pain sensitivity• How caffeine can affect anxiety, shakiness, and stillness• Why energy drinks are different from a normal cup of coffee• How caffeine withdrawal can affect habitual coffee drinkers• Why individual client history matters• A better way to communicate caffeine guidelines in your pre-care instructions The goal isn't to create more rules just because they've always been on a pre-care sheet. It's to understand the evidence, educate clients honestly, and make recommendations that actually support a calm and comfortable procedure. 🎙️ Hosted by Michelle RuknyPresident and Director of Operations, American Academy of Micropigmentation Learn more about AAM, Board Certification, and education at www.micropigmentation.org and follow @aampmuboard on Instagram. The PMU Standard. Raising the standard for permanent makeup.

  2. Sep 11

    Episode 25: Why Alcohol Is Not a Good Idea Before Your PMU Appointment

    That glass of wine the night before your brow, lip, or eyeliner appointment might seem harmless, but it can affect more than you think. In this episode of The PMU Standard, AAM President and Director of Operations Michelle Rukny breaks down what alcohol actually does in the body and why artists commonly recommend avoiding it before a permanent makeup procedure. Michelle gets into the science behind platelet function, bleeding, bruising, skin reactivity, and the early stages of wound healing. She also explains why the effects of alcohol can vary so much from person to person and why good pre-care is about removing unnecessary variables before creating a controlled injury to the skin. You'll also hear why artists need to be careful about making big claims around alcohol and pigment retention. Retention is influenced by everything from skin type and technique to pigment choice, depth, immune response, sun exposure, and aftercare. Alcohol is not responsible for every healing issue, but it is one variable clients can control before their appointment. In this episode: • What people really mean when they say alcohol "thins the blood"• How alcohol can affect platelet function and bleeding• Why excess bleeding and oozing can make PMU procedures more difficult• The connection between alcohol, bruising, and skin reactivity• What research tells us about alcohol and wound healing• Why artists should avoid making unsupported claims about pigment retention• When clients should stop drinking before their appointment• Why pre-care instructions should be discussed during the consultation This isn't about judging someone for having a drink. It's about understanding how the body responds and giving clients the information they need to prepare for the best possible procedure and healing experience. 🎙️ Hosted by Michelle RuknyPresident and Director of Operations, American Academy of Micropigmentation Learn more about AAM, Board Certification, and education at micropigmentation.org and follow @aampmuboardon Instagram. The PMU Standard. Raising the standard for permanent makeup.

  3. Sep 4

    Episode 24: Why Minimum Standards Are Rising in PMU

    Why are minimum standards for permanent makeup rising, and what does that mean for artists? In this episode of The PMU Standard, AAM President and Director of Operations Michelle Rukny breaks down the growing push for stronger safety, training, and accountability across the PMU industry. PMU regulations can look completely different depending on where you practice. Michelle looks at how states like California, Oregon, and Texas approach permanent makeup, why those requirements vary so much, and what artists need to understand about bloodborne pathogen training, infection control, licensing, and safe practices. She also talks about the questions clients should be asking before choosing an artist, why healed results matter, and where AAM Board Certification fits into raising professional standards beyond basic state requirements. In this episode:• Why PMU requirements vary from state to state• What bloodborne pathogen training looks like in real practice• The difference between meeting minimum requirements and maintaining professional standards• What clients should ask their PMU artist• Why healed results matter• How AAM Board Certification supports accountability and continued education Rising standards are a sign that the PMU industry is growing up. The goal isn't to make it harder to be an artist. It's to make it safer for clients and strengthen the credibility of the professionals who take this work seriously. 🎙️ Hosted by Michelle RuknyPresident and Director of Operations, American Academy of Micropigmentation Learn more about AAM, Board Certification, and education at micropigmentation.org and follow @aampmuboard on Instagram. The PMU Standard. Raising the standard for permanent makeup.

  4. Aug 24

    Episode 23: Pigmentology with Alex Mechenici | Part 4: Continuing the Conversation Through Education

    Pigmentology with Alex Mechenici | Part 4: Continuing the Conversation Through Education The Pigmentology series comes to a close... but the learning is just beginning. In Part 4 of this exclusive four-part Pigmentology series, Michelle Rukny, President of the American Academy of Micropigmentation and Director of Operations, wraps up her conversation with internationally recognized pigment expert Alex Mechenici by reflecting on the importance of continued education, independent learning, and remaining curious in an industry that is constantly evolving. Throughout this series, Michelle and Alex have explored pigment chemistry, titanium dioxide, under-eye camouflage, long-term pigment behavior, and the value of questioning long-held assumptions. In this final episode, they discuss what's next for artists who want to continue expanding their understanding of pigment science and why lifelong learning remains one of the most valuable investments a PMU professional can make. If this series challenged the way you think about pigments, you're not alone. That's exactly why the conversation continues beyond the podcast. • Why continuing education matters in a rapidly evolving industry• The value of independent, evidence-informed learning• Alex's educational philosophy and upcoming projects• A look ahead at the first AAM Pigmentology Mini Course• Final reflections from Michelle and Alex Alex Mechenici's first Pigmentology Mini Course, Organic vs. Inorganic, is scheduled to launch at the end of August through the American Academy of Micropigmentation. If you enjoyed this four-part series and want to dive deeper into the science behind permanent makeup pigments, this course is designed to expand on many of the concepts discussed throughout these episodes with even greater depth and detail. Want to be the first to know when enrollment opens? Join the AAM Mini Course Library Waitlist for exclusive early access, launch announcements, educational updates, and text message reminders. 👉 Sign up here:https://american-academy-of-micropigmentation.mykajabi.com/signup 📸 Instagram: @alex.pmu.and.laser.academyhttps://www.instagram.com/alex.pmu.and.laser.academy/ 🌐 Learn more about Alex's education and courses through the links in her Instagram bio, including Fade Ink and her online learning platform. 🌐 Website: www.aampmuboard.org 📸 Instagram: @aampmuboardhttps://www.instagram.com/aampmuboard/ Interested in becoming Board Certified, joining AAM, attending webinars, accessing continuing education, or exploring upcoming mini courses? Visit www.aampmuboard.org to learn more. The PMU Standard is the official podcast of the American Academy of Micropigmentation, bringing together leading educators, researchers, and industry experts to explore the science, artistry, safety, and standards behind permanent makeup. Each episode is designed to help artists think critically, strengthen their clinical knowledge, and make more informed decisions through evidence-informed education. ⭐ Follow The PMU Standard on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen so you never miss an episode. If you found this series valuable, consider sharing it with a fellow PMU artist or trainer. Thoughtful conversations and evidence-informed education help strengthen our profession and encourage continued growth throughout the industry. Thank you for joining us for this special four-part Pigmentology series with Alex Mechenici. We look forward to bringing you more conversations that challenge assumptions, inspire curiosity, and support professional excellence. Because raising the standard begins with better education.

  5. Aug 17

    Episode 22: Pigmentology with Alex Mechenici | Part 3: Permanent Pigments, Performance & Independent Thinking

    Pigmentology with Alex Mechenici | Part 3: Permanent Pigments, Performance & Independent Thinking Just because you can't see a pigment anymore... does that mean it's actually gone? In Part 3 of our exclusive four-part Pigmentology series, Michelle Rukny, President of the American Academy of Micropigmentation and Director of Operations, continues her conversation with internationally recognized pigment expert Alex Mechenici as they explore one of the most misunderstood concepts in permanent makeup: pigment permanence. Alex explains how advances in pigment technology have changed over the years, including the development of modern high-performance pigments and why fading doesn't necessarily mean pigment has disappeared from the skin. The conversation also examines why understanding long-term pigment behavior matters when evaluating future treatments, correction work, and evolving trends within the PMU industry. As the discussion continues, Michelle and Alex shift gears into another thought-provoking topic: the value of remaining independent from pigment manufacturers and how that independence may influence education, transparency, and professional conversations. Whether you're new to PMU or have years of experience, this episode encourages artists to continue asking questions, evaluating evidence, and making informed decisions that prioritize long-term client outcomes. • How modern pigment technology has evolved• What "high-performance pigments" are and why they matter• Why invisible pigment may still remain within the skin• Long-term considerations for correction and future treatments• Independent education versus brand-driven messaging Alex Mechenici's first Pigmentology Mini Course, Organic vs. Inorganic, is scheduled to launch at the end of August through the American Academy of Micropigmentation. Want to be the first to know when enrollment opens? Join the AAM Mini Course Library Waitlist for exclusive early access, launch announcements, educational updates, and text message reminders. 👉 Sign up here:https://american-academy-of-micropigmentation.mykajabi.com/signup 📸 Instagram: @alex.pmu.and.laser.academyhttps://www.instagram.com/alex.pmu.and.laser.academy/ 🌐 Website: www.aampmuboard.org 📸 Instagram: @aampmuboardhttps://www.instagram.com/aampmuboard/ Interested in becoming Board Certified, joining AAM, attending webinars, accessing continuing education, or exploring upcoming mini courses? Visit www.aampmuboard.org to learn more. The PMU Standard is the official podcast of the American Academy of Micropigmentation, bringing together leading educators, researchers, and industry experts to explore the science, artistry, safety, and standards behind permanent makeup. Each episode is designed to help artists think critically, strengthen their clinical knowledge, and make more informed decisions through evidence-informed education. ⭐ Follow The PMU Standard on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen so you never miss an episode. 🎙️ Next Episode: In Part 4, Michelle and Alex conclude the Pigmentology series with a candid discussion about transparency in the PMU industry, evaluating information beyond marketing, and why critical thinking remains one of an artist's most valuable tools. Because raising the standard begins with better education.

  6. Aug 10

    Episode 21: Pigmentology with Alex Mechenici | Part 2: Under-Eye Camouflage, Hidden Pigment & Long-Term Considerations

    Pigmentology with Alex Mechenici | Part 2: Under-Eye Camouflage, Hidden Pigment & Long-Term Considerations The conversation continues... In Part 2 of our exclusive four-part Pigmentology series, Michelle Rukny, President of the American Academy of Micropigmentation and Director of Operations, continues her conversation with internationally recognized pigment expert Alex Mechenici as they explore one of the most debated topics in permanent makeup: under-eye camouflage. What happens when tattoo pigment is no longer visible... but is still present beneath the skin? Alex shares her perspective on why this distinction may matter when clients later pursue treatments such as laser rejuvenation, IPL, BBL, or other energy-based procedures. Together, Michelle and Alex discuss long-term pigment behavior, treatment planning, and why understanding pigment science can play an important role in client education and informed decision-making. The conversation also touches on professional responsibility, learning from industry experience, and why continually questioning and expanding our knowledge helps move the profession forward. Whether you agree with every perspective or not, this episode encourages artists to think critically, ask better questions, and continue learning. • The ongoing discussion surrounding under-eye camouflage• Hidden pigment versus visible pigment in the skin• Considerations before future laser and energy-based treatments• Why long-term thinking matters in permanent makeup• The importance of professional responsibility and continued education Alex Mechenici's first Pigmentology Mini Course, Organic vs. Inorganic, is scheduled to launch at the end of August through the American Academy of Micropigmentation. Want to be the first to know when enrollment opens? Join the AAM Mini Course Library Waitlist for exclusive early access, launch announcements, educational updates, and text message reminders. 👉 Sign up here:https://american-academy-of-micropigmentation.mykajabi.com/signup 📸 Instagram: @alex.pmu.and.laser.academyhttps://www.instagram.com/alex.pmu.and.laser.academy/ 🌐 Website: www.aampmuboard.org 📸 Instagram: @aampmuboardhttps://www.instagram.com/aampmuboard/ Interested in becoming Board Certified, joining AAM, attending webinars, accessing continuing education, or exploring upcoming mini courses? Visit www.aampmuboard.org to learn more. The PMU Standard is the official podcast of the American Academy of Micropigmentation, bringing together leading educators, researchers, and industry experts to explore the science, artistry, safety, and standards behind permanent makeup. Each episode is designed to help artists think critically, strengthen their clinical knowledge, and make more informed decisions through evidence-informed education. ⭐ Follow The PMU Standard on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen so you never miss an episode. 🎙️ Next Episode: In Part 3, Michelle and Alex shift the conversation toward one of the most misunderstood topics in pigment science: carbon black, inorganic black pigments, and what artists should understand about pigment composition, safety, and long-term performance. Because raising the standard begins with better education.

  7. Aug 3

    Episode 20: Pigmentology with Alex Mechenici | Part 1: The Science Behind PMU Pigments

    Pigmentology with Alex Mechenici | Part 1: The Science Behind PMU Pigments What if some of the "facts" you've been taught about permanent makeup pigments were never questioned in the first place? In Part 1 of this exclusive four-part Pigmentology series, Michelle Rukny, President of the American Academy of Micropigmentation and Director of Operations, sits down with internationally recognized pigment expert Alex Mechenici for a thought-provoking conversation that challenges common assumptions about pigment science. Together, they explore the fundamentals of organic and inorganic pigments, how pigments behave in the skin, why understanding pigment composition matters far beyond color selection, and why artists should be asking more questions instead of simply repeating what they've been taught. This episode is all about building a stronger scientific foundation because better understanding leads to better clinical decision-making. As the conversation unfolds, Michelle and Alex begin discussing one of the industry's most misunderstood pigment ingredients: titanium dioxide. What is it actually doing in the skin? Why is it so often misunderstood? And how might it influence long-term pigment behavior? Then, just as the discussion starts getting even more controversial... The conversation shifts toward one of the most debated procedures in permanent makeup today: under-eye camouflage. That conversation begins here... and continues in Part 2. • Understanding organic vs. inorganic pigments • Why opacity matters in permanent makeup • Common misconceptions surrounding titanium dioxide • The importance of questioning industry assumptions and seeking evidence-based education • A preview of the upcoming discussion on under-eye camouflage Alex Mechenici's first Pigmentology Mini Course, Organic vs. Inorganic, is scheduled to launch at the end of August through the American Academy of Micropigmentation. Want to be the first to know when enrollment opens? Join the AAM Mini Course Library Waitlist for exclusive early access, launch announcements, educational updates, and text message reminders. 👉 Sign up here: AAM Mini Course Library Waitlist 📸 Instagram: @alex.pmu.and.laser.academy https://www.instagram.com/alex.pmu.and.laser.academy/ 🌐 Website: www.aampmuboard.org 📸 Instagram: @aampmuboard https://www.instagram.com/aampmuboard/ Interested in becoming Board Certified, joining AAM, attending webinars, accessing continuing education, or exploring upcoming mini courses? Visit www.aampmuboard.org to learn more. The PMU Standard is the official podcast of the American Academy of Micropigmentation, bringing together leading educators, researchers, and industry experts to explore the science, artistry, safety, and standards behind permanent makeup. Each episode is designed to help artists think critically, strengthen their clinical knowledge, and make more informed decisions through evidence-informed education. ⭐ Follow The PMU Standard on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen so you never miss an episode. 🎙️ Next Episode: Part 2 of our exclusive Pigmentology series explores one of the most debated topics in permanent makeup: under-eye camouflage, titanium dioxide, and the science behind flesh-tone pigments. Because raising the standard begins with better education.

  8. Jul 31

    Episode 19: Summer PMU | What Every Client Should Know Before Booking

    Episode 19: Summer PMU | What Every Client Should Know Before Booking Summer is one of the most popular times to schedule permanent makeup, but it's also the season that requires the most planning. In this episode of The PMU Standard, Michelle Rukny, President and Director of Operations of the American Academy of Micropigmentation, explains how sun exposure, swimming, sweating, travel, exercise, and outdoor activities can affect PMU healing, pigment retention, and long-term results. You'll learn why timing matters more than the season, how to determine whether a client is a good candidate to book now or should wait, and the consultation questions every PMU artist should be asking before scheduling powder brows, microblading, lip blush, permanent eyeliner, or other cosmetic tattoo procedures. Michelle also discusses how UV exposure affects healed pigment, why lifestyle should be part of every consultation, and how proper planning leads to healthier healing and happier clients. Whether you're a PMU artist, permanent makeup professional, cosmetic tattoo artist, esthetician, trainer, or client planning a summer procedure, this episode provides practical, evidence-based guidance to improve consultations, aftercare, and long-term outcomes. Topics include: Summer PMUPermanent makeup healingPMU consultationsPowder browsMicrobladingLip blushPermanent eyelinerPMU aftercarePigment retentionUV exposure and permanent makeupCosmetic tattoo healingPMU best practicesClient education🎁 Download our complimentary Consultation Script & Checklist here:Consultation Script & Checklist For more PMU education, blogs, industry news, and upcoming events, visit AAM PMU Board and join our email list to stay up to date. Follow the AAM on Instagram at @aampmuboard

About

THE PMU STANDARD by AAM is a leadership podcast for permanent makeup professionals navigating a changing industry. Hosted by Michelle Rukny, President of the American Academy of Micropigmentation @aampmuboard, the show explores industry standards, permanent makeup business realities, professionalism, and long-term sustainability without hype, fear, or shortcuts. This is not a technique podcast. It’s a reality-based conversation about building careers that last.