Talking With My Mouth Full

David Leite

"Talking With My Mouth Full" takes an unexpected--and often irreverent--look at the ways food and drink intersect our lives. In each episode, hosts David Leite and Amy Traverso and their guests question, laugh, and quibble their way through all manner of culinary conundrums, obsessions, fads, and fancies. Follow us on social @amytraverso and @davidleite. davidleite.substack.com

  1. № 94: Eggs and In-Season Cooking with Lisa Steele

    May 14

    № 94: Eggs and In-Season Cooking with Lisa Steele

    WATCH THE EPISODE HERE Highlights & “Must-Listen” Moments * 0:00 — Amy’s food week: New iPad, spinach artichoke dip, and a Portland, Maine eating trip: Amy’s rocking a new-to-her iPad Pro with a suspiciously flattering built-in filter she has no intention of turning off. David (bravely) compliments her on how great she’s been looking. Amy’s her son Ollie is a high school senior, and Scott made her a video of his first 18 years for Mother’s Day that had her in tears in a quarter of a second. * On the food front: a spinach artichoke dip brought to a friend’s house for the (heartbreaking) Celtics playoff loss, brownies for a school play rehearsal from a beloved Betty Crocker Cookbook for Kids circa 1980–81 (butter + unsweetened chocolate, double boiler, no shortcuts), and a strawberry ricotta cannoli tart with a press-in shortbread crust that she’s calling her summer go-to. * 3:37 — Portland, Maine: Amy’s restaurant report: Ladyfish — a six-month residency pop-up from Jordan Rubin (Mr. Tuna) and New York chef Christine Lau — serving strikingly fresh seafood and a vermouth program Amy says will define her summer (”vermouth and soda with a squeeze of lemon”). Leeward: the restaurant where even the salad makes you want to fall out of your chair. Bread & Friends for breakfast. ZuBakery, a James Beard Award winner. The density of great restaurants in Portland remains unmatched. * 8:27 — David’s food week: A Swiss chard and leek tart, blueberry crumble, Amatriciana, and vinegar-glossed chicken: David attempted to wake at 7:30 and cook a tart, a crumble, prep a podcast, shower, make reservations to Greece (September!), and book doctor’s appointments — all before noon. ADHD-addled but determined. The tart: Swiss chard, leeks, and goat cheese in an herb crust with chopped rosemary and thyme, custard of cream and eggs and nutmeg, pre-baked, gorgeous. Served alongside the blueberry crumble from his website for French friends visiting from Roxbury, Connecticut. He also made Amatriciana again (guanciale, San Marzano tomatoes, red pepper flakes) and, for the first time since its publication, Lucinda Scala Quinn’s vinegar-glossed chicken from Mad Hungry — thighs started in a cold skillet, rendered low and slow, finished with a full cup of red wine vinegar, rosemary, and garlic until it becomes a syrupy glaze. Verdict: extraordinary. Next time, a touch of honey. * 9:28 — Introducing Fresh by Lisa Steele: Lisa Steele is a Maine-based backyard farmer, seasonal cook, and author of the Fresh Eggs Daily Cookbook. She raises chickens, ducks, and geese on a rural farm and brings her Scandinavian heritage and New England roots to everything she makes. Her second cookbook, In Season: 125+ Sweet and Savory Recipes Celebrating Simple, Fresh Ingredients, just came out. She also hosted two seasons of Welcome to My Farm on American Public Television/PBS. Yankee Magazine featured the book in its March/April issue — thanks, Amy! * 10:49 — The family chicken legacy: Lisa grew up in central Massachusetts, where her grandparents ran a full commercial two-story, two-wing chicken barn. She was in 4-H and has been around chickens for most of her life. David’s husband remains unmoved after 30 years of lobbying — until Lisa offers the decisive argument: “There are many other potential husbands out there.” (Shouted into the kitchen. Received without comment.) * 13:30 — The quality of grocery store eggs, and what backyard eggs actually taste like: Lisa makes the case that the backyard chicken movement pressured commercial egg producers to raise their standards — fresher eggs, brighter yolks, more variety. And yes, you can manipulate yolk color by adding carotenoid-rich foods (leafy greens, paprika, marigold, alfalfa, xanthophyll) to feed. But nothing compares to an egg collected from your coop and baked with that same morning. * 16:50 — Why In Season is not a farm-to-table book (even though it kind of is): Lisa wanted to write another egg cookbook. Her agent said sequels don’t sell. Harper Collins bought “farm-to-table” immediately. Lisa hated the phrase, negotiated a full chapter on eggs, and eventually came around — because the seasonal structure actually forced her to write more versatile recipes. She even discovered she likes salads now, provided there are blackberries and feta on them. The words “farm to table” do not appear in the book. * 18:32 — The structure of the book — seasonal within categories: Chapters are organized by type (soups, salads, etc.), but within each chapter, recipes are sorted seasonally. So you’re not just looking for soup — you’re looking for a soup that belongs to this time of year. One Goodreads reviewer complained that what’s in season in Maine isn’t what’s in season everywhere. Lisa’s response: fair point, but she wrote it universally, not for Maine specifically — because if she had, there would be no spring chapter. * 19:44 — Lisa’s garden (and its honest current state): In Virginia, Lisa had a huge horse-pasture garden fertilized with manure — cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, everything thriving. In Maine, she took the Master Gardener program and learned that the very long summer days compensate for the short frost-free season (roughly 100 days). She’s grown sweet potatoes, watermelon, and corn. Today? A dedicated garlic bed, herb planters on the deck, and whatever tomato plant a friend hands her. She’s at peace with this. * 22:14 — Amy’s garden confession: Three blocks from the Boston city line, Amy has a small four-by-four raised bed. Last year she gave up on vegetables and grew flowers instead. This year: herbs. Lisa approves — fresh tarragon and dill are genuinely hard to source locally, and herbs are where home growing makes the most impact (looking at you, tomatoes). * 25:15 — Sweet deviled eggs — Black Forest and Piña Colada: The book has a chapter on sweet deviled eggs. The Black Forest deviled eggs came from a failed blueberry cheesecake deviled egg attempt (the yolk turned gray — a dead end). Lisa pivoted to chocolate and landed on something that tastes almost like chocolate pudding in an egg white. The Piña Colada version features coconut on top. If you serve enough margaritas alongside them, no one will even notice the eggs. * 27:05 — The case for steaming eggs (and against boiling them): David and Lisa are both committed steamers. The method: an inch or two of water in a pot, a bamboo steamer/colander/mesh strainer, add eggs once steam is coming through, cover, same timing as boiling (10–12 minutes for hard-cooked), then straight into ice water. Benefits over boiling: eggs peel perfectly every time (even fresh eggs), no cracking from bouncing in boiling water, no gray-green ring around the yolk (steaming is gentler heat), and that hot-to-cold shock does something sciencey that makes the shell release cleanly. No baking soda, no holes poked, no counter-popping required. David calls the pocked, dimpled result of boiled eggs “egg acne.” He has been cured for twelve years. * 33:38 — How to make creamy scrambled eggs: Fresh eggs only — they have enough moisture that you don’t need to add milk or water. Whisk really well (air = creaminess). Butter in a pan over low heat. Pour in, move for large curds or stir more for small. The key: take them off before they look done. They should still be wet and glossy. The enemy is overcooking, which leads to dry, weepy eggs with liquid seeping around the edges of the plate. * 35:24 — Poaching eggs in things other than water: Starting with the basic whirlpool technique, Lisa began asking: why are we limiting ourselves to water? The book includes eggs poached in maple syrup (served over buttered toast, it reads like a deconstructed pancake), beer, wine, and butter beer. The Avgolemono poached eggs — borrowing from the classic Greek egg-and-lemon soup — bring citrus brightness without extra salt or seasonings. * 37:31 — Scandinavian heritage in the book: Lisa’s grandparents emigrated from Finland to International Falls, Minnesota (cold and snowy, just like home, which they quickly reconsidered) before landing on Cape Cod and then Central Massachusetts. Lisa spent a year in Finland in sixth grade while her father completed his doctorate. The cookbook includes a Finnish Creamed Rice with Cranberry Soup — something between rice pudding and a floating island — with a thick cranberry sauce (standing in for Finland’s lingonberries) and whipped cream, re-created from memory of a great-aunt’s version because there was no recipe to inherit. * 40:30 — Maple brown sugar pot de crème with bourbon whipped cream and bacon bits: Maine means maple. Lisa tried variations on crème brûlée for years and kept finding that it’s too pure a dessert to mess with (she even objects to restaurant versions served with cookies and berries alongside — “it should just be it”). She pivoted to pot de crème, which is more forgiving and invites variations. * The maple-bacon version is spectacular. David makes his own espresso maple bacon — cured five days with maple and espresso powder, then smoked — which he describes as “breakfast in a bite.” * 42:22 — The Burnt Basque Cheesecake: Lisa included it before it went truly viral, when she felt it was still something most people hadn’t heard of. The appeal: no crust, much more forgiving than traditional cheesecake, deeply flavorful from the caramelization. (David makes a pomegranate molasses version.) The challenge of cookbook timing: you write a recipe thinking it’s a discovery, and by the time the book comes out two years later, it’s everywhere — or in some cases, something you created for a TV episode goes viral and you can never quite prove it. * 43:45 — The flight of jammy eggs went viral — and Lisa was doing it first: Lisa featured a row of varied jammy eggs on a wooden boa

    47 min
  2. № 93: Baking with Jessica Battilana of King Arthur Baking Company

    Apr 15

    № 93: Baking with Jessica Battilana of King Arthur Baking Company

    WATCH THE EPISODE HERE In this Episode Highlights & “Must-Listen” Moments * 0:00 — Another chaotic tech day: An hour of audio problems before the show even begins. The invitation went out to 250,000 people; by the time they got the show running, 16 lovely souls had joined. David was cursing like a sailor off-camera. Business as usual. * 1:56 — Amy’s food week: Passover, Easter, cardamom buns, and scrambled eggs: Amy hosted both Passover and Easter in the same week — a double-whammy that was exhausting and wonderful. She made the cardamom buns from Juno Bakery in Copenhagen again (they came out beautifully), and then had a quiet week after that, during which she rediscovered the joy of perfect scrambled eggs: generous olive oil, high heat to start, back of a fork, constant small wrist movements to create tiny curds, then immediately turn the heat down. Creamy, silky, and completely underrated. * 4:30 — Amy’s Weekends with Yankee shout-out: Episode two of the new season is out now on public television. Featured recipe: a tomato tartine from Groundswell Café in Tiverton, Rhode Island, right on the Farm Coast where Rhode Island and Massachusetts meet. Available on newengland.com. * 5:31 — David’s food week: Homemade Spaghetti Amatriciana and Prime Heritage Pork Chops: David made homemade spaghetti amatriciana from scratch — the first time he’s ever run spaghetti through the roller — and the results were restaurant-quality. His version includes guanciale or pancetta, DOP San Marzano tomatoes, a touch of balsamic vinegar (not traditional, but it lifts the whole dish), red pepper flakes, and Pecorino. Then, the main event: prime heritage pork chops from Boardman Bridge Butchers, two inches thick, served simply with salt, pepper, roasted sweet potato, and a salad. What pork tasted like before factory farming. David nearly wept. * 8:42 — ADHD update: David finally has a coach and a PsyD on his team. Progress is being made. The meds remain elusive, but we’re getting there. * 9:01 — Introducing Jessica Battilana: Amy introduces their guest — Jessica Battilana, staff editor at King Arthur Baking Company, award-winning writer and recipe developer, co-host of the King Arthur podcast Things Bakers Know, co-author of the #1 New York Times bestselling The King Arthur Big Book of Bread, and author of her own book Repertoire: All the Recipes You Need. She also co-authored Vietnamese Home Cooking with Charles Phan, Tartine Book No. 3 with Chad Robertson, and Baking at 20th Century Cafe with Michelle Polzine — among 16 books total. Amy and Jessica have known each other for two decades, from their Sunset Magazine days in California to Boston Magazine, and ran into each other in line for Bridget Everett at a Boston theater just last week. * 10:40 — The new King Arthur pizza book: Jessica’s 16th book, a King Arthur pizza book, just dropped. David has been raving about it on the show. Photographed by Andy Lee; the photography alone is stunning. * 13:35 — Jessica’s broken oven (and a sneak peek at her next solo book): Jessica’s home oven has been out for six to seven weeks. Making this particularly painful: she’s working on her second solo cookbook — tentatively titled This Is What We’re Having — due out (hopefully) next spring from Norton. One of the recipes is a banana cake with whipped caramel frosting, which created a bread-bowl-shaped lava situation during testing. The oven is definitely broken. * 16:09 — Q&A: Bread scoring tips from Peter in the audience: Jessica’s advice — chill your dough overnight in the banneton, use a fresh double-sided razor blade (not a lame), and score with speed and confidence — hesitation causes dragging. David’s tip: hold the lame at a very steep angle to create an ear, and don’t be afraid to make two or three passes. Amy’s breakthrough: line your banneton with a flour-sack towel dusted with flour before the overnight fridge proof. The cotton wicks away moisture and makes scoring dramatically easier. * 21:00 — About King Arthur Baking Company: America’s oldest flour company, over 200 years old, based in Norwich, Vermont. Employee-owned (400 employee-owners), certified B Corp. The campus includes a café, a baking school, and a retail store. They produce roughly 500 original recipes a year, all free on their website. Jessica confirms: it really is as great as it seems. * 23:24 — David’s King Arthur confession: The viral NYT chocolate chip cookie article — the one where you rest the dough for 36 hours — was developed using King Arthur cake flour and King Arthur bread flour. The Times doesn’t allow brand names, but the secret is out. * 24:03 — Q&A: Best baking advice you’ve ever gotten? Jessica’s answer: practice. Not a flashy answer, but an honest one. You learn something every single time you bake — the second attempt is always better than the first. Kate McDermott bakes a pie every single day and gives it away. Jessica’s invented solution to the problem of getting enough repetitions: a silicone bread butt cheek (like the injection-training prop she used during IVF), so bakers could practice scoring without committing a whole loaf. It does not yet exist. Someone should make it. Amy’s advice: read the recipe all the way through first. She ignores this about 50% of the time and always regrets it. * 29:18 — Baker vs. cook — is there a divide? Jessica doesn’t have a favorite. She bakes bread, makes dessert, and cooks weeknight dinners for her family every night. Her forthcoming book This Is What We’re Having is about exactly that — the family dinner, the one meal, take it or leave it. * 31:04 — Jessica’s winding career path: La Varenne cooking school in France → Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge (starting at the register, per her own career advice: “Take the worst job at the best place”) → private chefing → Chez Panisse receptionist in San Francisco (where every shift ended with a staff meal from the previous night’s leftovers) → lunch lady at her kids’ San Francisco elementary school, cooking for 250 children until the pandemic closed schools in March 2020. * 39:37 — Birthday cakes for every occasion: Jessica’s go-to is the chocolate layer cake from Repertoire — creamed butter and sugar, chocolate throughout, ganache mounted with butter — always requested by her older son. For her younger son, who has turned vanilla, she reaches for King Arthur’s Classic Birthday Cake: a reverse-creamed yellow cake with an almost-boxed-cake crumb that is genuinely excellent. Also discussed: Chef Zeb’s Hot Milk Cake on the KA site (thin, soupy batter that bakes up with a chiffon-like crumb), and the triumphant return of ermine frosting — the original red velvet frosting, made from a cooked flour paste, that KA now offers in both vanilla and chocolate. It’s poised for a comeback. Jessica’s test kitchen calls it “weasel frosting,” which is not helping its case. * 42:12 — Amy and David’s birthday cake confessions: Amy has long relied on Shirley Corriher’s ultra-rich yellow cake (so much butter, so many egg yolks — in this economy?), with chocolate frosting for Scott and white frosting for herself. She also loves Rosie’s Bakery’s All Butter, Fresh Cream, Sugar-Packed Baking Book — particularly the frosting made in a blender with evaporated milk. David is Team Ermine. * 44:48 — A glimpse behind the curtain at KA’s test kitchen: Jessica is literally being waved at through her office pod window to come taste baked Alaska for the new general baking book (cakes, cookies, pies) coming out fall 2027. All in a day’s work. * 45:27 — Goodbye, Jessica: She’s always happy to chat. Things Bakers Know is available as a podcast and a Substack. A visit to the King Arthur campus in Norwich, Vermont is highly recommended. Recipes Mentioned * Scrambled Eggs with Olive Oil (Amy’s back-of-the-fork method) * Tomato Tartine (from Groundswell Café, Tiverton, RI; on newengland.com) * Cardamom Buns * Homemade Spaghetti Amatriciana (with guanciale, San Marzano tomatoes, balsamic vinegar) * Prime Heritage Pork Chops (from Boardman Bridge Butchers, New Milford, CT) * Portuguese Orange Olive Oil Cake * Banana Cake with Whipped Caramel Frosting (from Jessica’s forthcoming book) * Chocolate Layer Cake with Ganache Butter Frosting (from Repertoire) * King Arthur Classic Birthday Cake (reverse-creamed yellow cake) * Chef Zeb’s Hot Milk Cake (on kingarthurbaking.com) * Vanilla Ermine Frosting (on kingarthurbaking.com) * Chocolate Ermine Frosting (on kingarthurbaking.com) * Shirley Corriher’s Ultra-Rich Yellow Cake (from BakeWise) * Rosie’s Bakery Evaporated Milk Frosting (from The All Butter, Fresh Cream, Sugar-Packed Baking Book) * Baked Alaska (being taste-tested at KA HQ as we speak) Books and Publications * The King Arthur Baking Company Big Book of Bread by Jessica Battilana et al. — the #1 NYT bestseller Amy uses every week * King Arthur Baking Company’s Book of Pizza Martin Philip and David Tamarkin with Jessica Battilana — just released * Repertoire: All the Recipes You Need by Jessica Battilana — published 2018 * This Is What We’re Having by Jessica Battilana — forthcoming from Norton, spring 2027 * Vietnamese Home Cooking by Charles Phan (with Jessica Battilana) * Tartine Book No. 3 by Chad Robertson (with Jessica Battilana) * Baking at 20th Century Cafe by Michelle Polzine (with Jessica Battilana) * BakeWise by Shirley Corriher (source of Amy’s go-to yellow cake) * Rosie’s Bakery All-Butter, Fresh Cream, Sugar-Packed, No-Holds-Barred Baking Book by Judy Rosenberg * Rose’s Christmas Cookies by Rose Levy Beranbaum (mentioned by Domenica Marchetti last episode — source of the almond crescent recipe) Where to Find Us * Amy Traverso * Instagram | Yankee * David Leite * Instagram | Pinterest | Facebook | Youtube * Jessica Battilana * Blog | Instagram | King

    47 min
  3. Nº 92: Italian Cookies with Domenica Marchetti

    Apr 2

    Nº 92: Italian Cookies with Domenica Marchetti

    WATCH THE EPISODE HERE In this Episode Highlights & “Must-Listen” Moments * 0:04 — Another chaotic start: David accidentally goes live 10 minutes early, Amy drops off before we’ve even begun, and Domenica Marchetti is sitting patiently waiting while the hosts sort themselves out. Welcome to live television, folks, take two. * 5:47 — Big news: SiriusXM signed us!: David announces that SiriusXM has reached out, signed a $2.1 million contract, and created an entire channel called “Culinistas” for them. Amy plays it beautifully straight — until someone notices it’s April 1st. David: “Do you realize SiriusXM has no idea who we are? I bought it!” April Fools. Amy: 1, David: 1. * 9:39 — Amy’s food week: Providence, Rhode Island food festival: Amy attended a celebration of Providence’s dining scene — a city that, like Portland, Maine, punches way above its weight in food culture. She toured Johnson & Wales College of Culinary Arts, did a panel with food writer elyse major, and came away wanting to move there immediately. * 11:41 — This week’s bread bake: the Levain: Amy’s sourdough rhythm continues — this week a classic nearly-all-white sourdough with a touch of rye flour. A Levain. Beautiful and tangy. * 11:53 — Amy’s Passover Seder prep: Amy is getting her brisket going and making chicken stock for matzo ball soup. Her Seder menu also includes crispy glazed sweet potatoes (mandolined, stood up like hassleback, glazed with brown sugar and butter) and roasted asparagus with Parmesan. * 13:02 — David’s food week: Portuguese Flourless Almond Cake disaster: David attempted his Portuguese almond flourless cake — a recipe he hadn’t made in 25 years — for Passover at Fred and Ginger’s house. He forgot the butter. Alan had to drive to the gas station to buy eggs. ADHD: 1, David: 0. He went to an ADHD coach this week, however — and reports it’s going well. * 15:01 — Domenica’s food week: Domenica’s retired husband has been doing all the cooking, which has been wonderful. Highlights: grilled swordfish steaks with asparagus and roasted red pepper, and enchiladas made with a whole rotisserie chicken — left on the counter overnight, tragically. * 17:00 — Crab cake catastrophe: The One was making crab cakes from one-year-old canned crab. The tongue-tingling was histamine poisoning. They tasted it anyway. Don’t be like David. * 19:41 — Book spotlight: Pimento Cheese: The Cookbook by Rebecca Lang: David recommends this deep dive into pimento cheese from the author of Around the Southern Table — lemony goat cheese pimento, Tex-Mex pimento, pineapple pimento, and pimento cheese with chili crunch. David riffs on his own deep-fried pimento cheese balls: firmed in the freezer, rolled in panko, fried at 375°F until oozy and golden. * 22:31 — Mrs. Appleyard’s Vermont kitchen: Amy goes vintage with Louise Andrews Kent, who wrote under the pen name Mrs. Appleyard — a sort of 1940s–50s Martha Stewart of northern Vermont who wrote seasonal cookbooks chronicling life in the tiny town of Crosbury Common. Charming, funny, and findable in used bookshops. * 24:52 — Food news: Copenhagen’s $340 chicken prix-fixe: A restaurant called Kylling (Danish for “chicken”) invites guests to spend the first 90 minutes of their dinner interacting with the chicken that will be served. The bread basket features cardamom buns made with chicken schmaltz. Art, or a lie? David fell for for. Again, April Fools. Amy: 2, David: 1. * 26:03 — Instagram’s shadow ban on non-overhead food photos (April Fools, part 2): A “leaked memo” claims Instagram will shadow ban any food not photographed from above — including soup shot from the side. Amy almost sold it. David: “It was believable. I believe everything.” April Fools. Amy: 3, David: 1. * 27:53 — Guest: Domenica Marchetti on Italian Cookies: The main event. Domenica is a prolific food writer and the author of nine acclaimed cookbooks. Her new book, Italian Cookies: Authentic Recipes and Sweet Stories from Every Region, drops April 14th. It covers the genuine, regional Italian cookies — not Italian-American cookies (no rainbow cookies, no iced anise rounds) — organized by the north, central Italy, the south, and the islands. * 29:51 — The cookie that started it all: Canestraletto di Torigna: In 2017, Domenica bit into this crumbly, flower-shaped butter cookie from Liguria (Genoa) and fell down a rabbit hole. She went to the town where it’s baked, found it has a history dating to the 15th century, and discovered a town of 2,000 people with eight bakeries dedicated to this one cookie. * 31:16 — Cookie pilgrimage: from Liguria to Saronno: From there it was the amaretti di Gavi (soft almond cookies from Gavi), then Voltaggio, then Saronno — where Domenica interviewed Paolo Lazzaroni, patriarch of the Chiostro di Saronno, the family behind the famous crunchy amaretti. His grandfather purchased a medieval cloister in the early 20th century, where the family has lived and worked ever since. * 34:03 — What’s in the book (and what isn’t): The book is organized regionally — cookies of the north, central Italy, the south, and the islands. In the islands chapter: Sicilian cucidati (buccellati) — butter pastry filled with fig paste, nuts, and chocolate. Not included: rainbow cookies, Italian-American iced anise rounds. This is Italy, not the neighborhood bakery. * 36:21 — Deep dive on the Serpetti: From the Castelli Romani hill towns outside Rome (where the Pope summers), these S-shaped butter cookies are made by a fifth-generation family in Monteportio Catone. The baker, Paola Rosazza Battore, wouldn’t share her recipe — but let Domenica watch. Through pure visual reporting, Domenica reverse-engineered it. * 44:31 — Regional cookie trends from north to south: Butter in the north. Olive oil in the south and Calabria. Lard in some regions. Honey and mostocotto (cooked grape must) in areas where sugar was once scarce. The cookies reflect the landscape, the agriculture, and the history of each place. * 56:54 — Coming back: Domenica hints that this conversation is far from over. David floats the idea of a live “Mouthful” where Domenica bakes a cookie while they talk to her. She’s in. * 57:51 — Farewell to Domenica: She’s a prolific food writer, author of nine acclaimed cookbooks — from handmade pasta to preserving to traditional Italian cooking — and one of the most trusted voices in regional Italian cuisine. Italian Cookies drops April 14th. Pre-order now on Amazon. Recipes Mentioned * Matzo Ball Soup (with homemade chicken stock) * Brisket * Crispy Glazed Sweet Potatoes (mandolined, hassleback-style, brown sugar and butter glaze) * Roasted Asparagus with Parmesan * Portuguese Flourless Almond Cake * Grilled Swordfish Steaks with Asparagus and Red Pepper (Domenica’s husband’s) * Enchiladas (with rotisserie chicken — RIP, left on the counter) * Crab Cakes (from very old canned crab — do not recommend) * Deep-Fried Pimento Cheese Balls (David’s riff — panko-crusted, fried at 375°F) * Pimento Cheese with Chili Crunch (from Pimento Cheese: The Cookbook) * Canestrelletti di Torigna (Ligurian flower-shaped butter cookie) * Amaretti di Gavi (soft almond cookies from Gavi) * Amaretti di Saronno (the classic crunchy ones from Chiostro di Saronno) * Serpetti (S-shaped butter cookies from the Castelli Romani, outside Rome) * Cucidati / Buccellati (Sicilian fig-filled butter pastry cookies) * Occhi di Bue / Frolini al Burro (jam-filled bullseye butter cookies, northern Italy) Books and Publications * Italian Cookies: Authentic Recipes and Sweet Stories from Every Region by Domenica Marchetti — dropping April 14th; pre-order on Amazon now * Pimento Cheese: The Southern Spread by Rebecca Lang * Mrs. Appleyard’s Vermont cookbooks by Louise Andrews Kent — vintage, findable in used bookshops Where to Find Us * Amy Traverso * Instagram | Yankee * David Leite * Instagram | Pinterest | Facebook | Youtube This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidleite.substack.com

    59 min
  4. Nº 91: Sourdough Starters, World’s Best Cheese, and a 100-Year-Old Oyster Promise

    Mar 26

    Nº 91: Sourdough Starters, World’s Best Cheese, and a 100-Year-Old Oyster Promise

    WATCH THE EPISODE HERE In this Episode Highlights & “Must-Listen” Moments * 0:00 — Welcome to the live, and a tech hiccup: We start strong (one minute early!) before Amy promptly drops off the call. Welcome to live television, folks. * 2:22 — Big announcement — we’re moving to Wednesdays at noon ET: David (Fatty Daddy) is almost 66 and exhausted by late-night shows. Starting next week, Talking with My Mouth Full goes live every Wednesday at 12 noon Eastern. West Coasters, that’s 9 a.m. Europeans, we see you, too. * 6:20 — Amy’s sourdough report: The Miche: Amy’s been baking her way through the King Arthur Big Book of Bread, and this week’s loaf was a miche — a classic French whole-grain sourdough, deeply tangy, chewy, and wonderfully moisture-retaining. Her starter is named Lazarus (given to her by a pastry chef at The Alna Store in Maine), and the name fits. * 10:28 — David’s food week: Lasagna Bianca and the Coca-Cola Brisket Aftermath: David finally had all the right cheeses (ordered from Caputo’s) for his five-cheese lasagna bianca, with handmade noodles rolled to setting 6 or 7 — so thin you can see through them. (Marcella Hazan once wrote him to say that’s exactly how it should be done.) He also confesses to eating an entire five-pound Coca-Cola brisket over the course of several days. No regrets. * 10:45 — The L. Reuteri Yogurt Rabbit Hole: Amy has gotten into making homemade yogurt using Lactobacillus reuteri, a culture promoted by Dr. William Davis (Wheat Belly) for its alleged gut-health and serotonin-boosting effects. The evidence: her sister-in-law went from tightly wound to noticeably chill. It’s made with half-and-half and is genuinely delicious. Amy’s verdict: she may have a delightful personality again. * 15:30 — ADHD confessions: David opens up about struggling to function without The One around — 269 unpublished posts sitting in his website backend, four photos from a shoot last June never uploaded, six holiday videos still in draft. Amy relates: She says she’s somewhere on the spectrum, and got into a fight with Scott when she started raking leaves at 1 p.m. for a 2 p.m. departure. (She was ready by 2:05, for the record.) Audience members chimed in to share their own experiences. * 22:10 — Books We Love: Morning Baker by Roxana Jullapat: David shares his excitement about this upcoming baking book (drops April 7th), packed with gorgeous recipes from the author of Mother Grains. Donuts, French toast, and beautiful photography — this one earned a “must have the physical copy.” * 24:46 — Amy’s Pick: A Kitchen on Goose Cove by Devin Finigan: Amy recommends this forthcoming cookbook from the chef of Aragosta restaurant in Maine, arriving later in April. The restaurant sits at the edge of an enchanted-forest cove overlooking the bay — and the food is just as stunning. * 27:18 — Amy’s current read: Le Road Trip by Vivian Swift: A beautifully illustrated chronicle of a honeymoon road trip through France, with sections on Bordeaux’s food and wine scene. Swift is an illustrator and writer, and Amy is captivated by the humanity of the hand-drawn work — especially in an AI-saturated moment. * 29:56 — Dorie’s Anytime Cakes and the illustrated cookbook debate: David and Amy discuss the reactions to Dorie’s latest book, which uses a photorealistic illustration style. Beautiful graphic design, but some readers found it less effective than photographs. The conversation leads to a broader point: in the age of AI perfection, people are gravitating toward the human, the imperfect, the messy, and real. * 33:20 — Product Spotlight: The Rose Levy Beranbaum Reduction Spatula: David finally retrieved it from the kitchen. It’s a ThermoWorks product from her Signature Series — a long spatula with raised measurement markings so you can track a sauce as it reduces right in the pan, no pouring into a measuring cup required. You can also use it to check viscosity. David has been trying to show it on the show for three weeks. Worth every penny. * 35:46 — Also worth having: Lucinda Scala Quinn’s Spurtles: Amy sings the praises of her spurtles — a cross between a spoon and a spatula, available in solid and slotted versions. Great for flipping pancakes, stirring risotto, and pretty much everything else. A quiet classic. * 37:09 — Food News: The 100-Year Oyster Promise Fulfilled: Wintzell’s Oyster House in Mobile, Alabama, had a long-standing promotion: free oysters to any man 80 years old, accompanied by his father. In early 2026, 99-year-old James Rush finally walked in with his 80-year-old son Jimmy to claim it. This is the first time in nearly 100 years the promotion has been fulfilled. * 39:13 — The World’s Best Cheese: The World Championship Cheese Contest recently crowned the Beemster Royaal Grand Cru — a 12-month-aged Gouda made by a cheesemaker with a Royal Warrant from the Netherlands — as best in show. The cows graze on seagrass near the ocean; the resulting milk delivers butterscotch and toasted almond notes. It is available at specialty cheese shops in the U.S. * 41:03 — Amy’s personal favorite: Abbaye de Belloc: A butterscotch-nutty, alpine-style cheese from the Pyrénées in the Comté family, made by affineur Mons and sold at Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge (which has an in-store aging cave and an online shop). * 43:07 — A love letter to Queijo Serra da Estrela: David raves about Portugal’s greatest cheese — an oozy, thistle-rennet sheep’s milk cheese from the Serra da Estrela mountains. He recalls a peak life moment at Quinta do Crasto in the Douro, when a nearly empty wheel arrived at the table, spaghetti swirled in the gooey inside with just black pepper. Nearly impossible to find properly aged in the U.S. * 48:35 — So long, and see you Wednesday at noon: Thank you for joining us. The Prosecco is gone, Amy is laughing, and we’ll see you next Wednesday at 12 noon Eastern. Products We Love * Rose Levy Beranbaum’s Reduction Spatula (ThermoWorks Signature Series) — A long spatula with raised measurement markings for tracking sauce reductions right in the pan. Also useful for checking viscosity. An absolute game-changer for anyone who reduces stocks, sauces, or caramels. * Lucinda Scala Quinn’s Spurtles — A cross between a spoon and a spatula, available in solid and slotted versions. Great for stirring, flipping, and doing basically everything at the stove. Books and Publications * Morning Baker by Roxana Jullapat — A baking book dropping April 7th, from the author of Mother Grains * A Kitchen on Goose Cove by Devin Finigan — From the chef of Aragosta restaurant in Maine; coming May 19, 2026. * Le Road Trip by Vivian Swift — Illustrated travel memoir covering a honeymoon journey through France * Dorie’s Anytime Cakes by Dorie Greenspan — Out now; photo-realistic illustration style sparked a lively debate * Wheat Belly by Dr. William Davis — The classic tome on eliminating wheat from your diet and why Recipes * Sourdough Miche (French whole-grain sourdough) * Porridge Bread * L. Reuteri Yogurt (made with half-and-half) * Lasagna Bianca with Five Cheeses (with handmade pasta) * Coca-Cola Brisket * Pastéis de Nata (Portuguese Custard Tarts) Where to Find Us * Amy Traverso * Instagram | Yankee * David Leite * Leite’s Culinaria | Instagram | Pinterest | Facebook | YouTube Chow, David This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidleite.substack.com

    50 min
  5. № 90: Easter, Passover, and the Dubious Trend of Soda-Flavored Foods

    Mar 19

    № 90: Easter, Passover, and the Dubious Trend of Soda-Flavored Foods

    WATCH THE EPISODE HERE In this Episode Highlights & “Must-Listen” Moments * 0:00 — Welcome to the video era: A warm welcome to our podcast listeners as we officially embrace both audio and video on Substack. Plus, a big hello to Rob Machado, Christy, Marianne, Susan, Deb, and our friends watching from Brooklyn! * 0:31 — St. Patrick’s Day shenanigans: Neither of us is Irish, but we’re definitely wearing our green and celebrating anyway. * 0:40 — The debut of “Winchell the Wattle”: It’s the end of turtleneck season, which means it’s time to embrace the author-photo scarf look. * 1:42 — An Irish-Italian Boston Funeral: Amy shares a beautiful story about a Quincy funeral that perfectly blended Irish and Italian traditions with potato and chicken dishes at the Sons of Italy. * 3:25 — The Soda Bread run-down: We discuss Darina Allen’s moist yogurt version, Amy’s apple and currant recipe, and Nancy Mock’s decadent chocolate chunk soda bread. * 7:00 — The Secret to Stuffies: A deep dive into New England stuffed quahogs, complete with Portuguese sausage, and why Mama Leite’s recipe remains a closely guarded secret. * 9:33 — Meltdown in the Photo Studio: David recounts his struggles baking his 20-year-old Portuguese orange olive oil cake for Clare Barboza’s photoshoot. Plus, the magic of DIY “Cake Goop” to save your Bundt pans. * 22:30 — Easter & Passover Planning: Amy preps for an Adina Sussman-inspired Passover and family biscotti, while David plans a menu featuring ervilhas com ovos and Italian roast leg of lamb. * 28:09 — Brisket Two Ways: We discuss the legendary Nach Waxman brisket method versus the shockingly delicious mid-century Coca-Cola brisket with Heinz chili sauce. * 30:56 — Fast Food Abominations: Taco Bell’s Mountain Dew Baja Midnight Pie and Dr * Pepper Johnsonville Hot Dogs enter the chat. * 36:11 — Depression-Era Baking & Mid-Century Nostalgia: A trip down memory lane discussing tomato soup cake, mayo cake, mock apple pie, and the sticky joy of collecting S&H Green Stamps. * 39:35 — Grandma’s Cream Cheese Pesto: Amy shares her grandmother’s thrifty, modern mid-century trick for making pesto without expensive pine nuts. Recipes * Yogurt Irish Soda Bread * Irish Soda Bread with Currants and Apple * Nancy Mock’s Chocolate Soda Bread * Eton Mess with Lemon Curd and Raspberries * Stuffies (Stuffed Quahogs) * Creamy French Chicken Stew (Blanquette de Poulet) * Portuguese Orange Olive Oil Cake * Homemade “Cake Goop” * Applesauce Bread * Porridge Bread * Almond and Anise/Sambuca Biscotti * Ervilhas com Ovos (Portuguese Peas with Eggs and Bacon) * Italian Roast Leg of Lamb (with garlic, rosemary, and lemon) * Nach Waxman’s Brisket * Cider Braised Brisket * Cider-Braised Pork, Apples, and Vegetables * Coca-Cola Brisket * Dr Pepper Glazed Ham * Spiced Carrot Cake * Tomato Soup Cake * Mayonnaise Cake * Hardtack/Depression Era Spice Cookie * Ritz Cracker Mock Apple Pie * Cream Cheese Pesto Books and Publications * Becky Selengut’s upcoming cookbook (photographed by Clare Barboza) Where to Find Us * Amy Traverso * Instagram | Yankee * David Leite * Instagram | Pinterest | Facebook | Youtube This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidleite.substack.com

    46 min
  6. № 89: Pot Pies with Kate McDermott

    Mar 11

    № 89: Pot Pies with Kate McDermott

    WATCH THE EPISODE HERE In this Episode Highlights & “Must-Listen” Moments * 0:00 — Welcome & Who’s in the Room: Shoutouts to the live audience, plus a surprise cameo from The One—joining from 5,400 miles away in Uruguay while David holds down the fort. * 1:05 — Amy’s Food Week: Chicken meatballs with creamy Parmesan orzo (Half Baked Harvest), two rounds of sourdough, a buckwheat coconut chocolate chip cookie revelation from Sister Pie, and a sneak peek at a summer heirloom tomato and crispy chickpea salad destined for Yankee’s July issue. * 5:38 — David’s Food Week: The Great Cheese Hunt: Nine or ten sources, zero Scamorza—until Caputo’s of Salt Lake City saved the white lasagna. Plus: a slightly underwhelming (but lobster-knuckle-redeemed) dinner at the Mermaid Inn. * 12:30 — Mailbag: Queen-of-the-night tomato seeds from BBQ Goddess near Yosemite, and a stunning Italian cookies cookbook sent straight from Domenica Marchetti herself. * 17:38 — Kate McDermott Joins the Show: The Pie Whisperer is in da house! David recounts the pear pie workshop in New York, the legendary pastry cloth Kate made him, and the leaf lard gift that started it all. * 20:32 — What Is a Pot Pie, Actually? Kate’s definition: a savory, thick stew or casserole with a crust on top—and the accidental pitch for a High Times “pot pie” feature that never was. * 21:54 — Single Crust vs. Double Crust Showdown: The audience weighs in (doubles win decisively). David makes the case for starting on the lowest oven rack to vanquish the soggy bottom. Paul Hollywood would be proud. * 27:50 — Thickening, Breadcrumbs & MSG: Flour or cornstarch to thicken; seasoned panko mixed into the filling for body and flavor; and an impassioned defense of umami powder—”the thing I’m a little embarrassed about but use constantly.” * 31:37 — Amy’s Pork & Apple Pie with Cheddar Sage Crust: The Apple Lover’s Cookbook showstopper—breadcrumbs in the filling, layered apple slices on top, great at room temperature. A Cornish pasty’s elegant American cousin. * 33:46 — Hot Water Crust & Hand-Raised Pies: Kate on the pie dolly technique she learned from Sarah Pettigrew at the School of Artisan Food in Nottinghamshire, the all-important gelée drizzle, and why it’s not a proper pie without the jelly. * 39:44 — Do Potatoes Belong in a Pot Pie? Yes. Emphatically yes. (Amy’s complicated feelings about potatoes are aired. The Portuguese contingent is scandalized.) * 41:42 — Moment of Outrage: The OG Caramelized Onion: Those 12-year-olds on social media who think they just invented adding water to speed up caramelizing onions. Decades, people. Decades. * 42:26 — Kate’s Closing Report from St. Croix: A mango, papaya, and soursop crostata with a guava jam base, made with fruit from her brother-in-law’s farm at the University of the Virgin Islands. And a reminder from the pie queen herself: Be happy. Make pie. Recipes * Baked Sage Chicken Meatballs with Parmesan Orzo * Pork and Apple Pie with Cheddar Sage Crust * Homemade Chicken Pot Pie * Beef and Guinness Pie * Steak and Ale Pies * Chicken Pot Pies with Cheddar-Scallion Biscuits * Chicken Pot Pie with Herbed Mashed-Potato Crust * Chicken Pot Pie * New England Skillet Chicken Pie * Curry Chicken Pot Pie * Chicken and Leek Pot Pie * Irish Cream Chess Pie * Pain de Campagne * Dirt Bombs Books and Publications * Art of the Pie by Kate McDermott * Pie Camp by Kate McDermott * Home Cooking by Kate McDermott * Italian Cookies by Domenica Marchetti * Will This Make Me Happy? by Tanya Bush * Sister Pie by Lisa Ludwinski * King Arthur Big Book of Bread by King Arthur Baking Company Equipment * Pie Dolly Where to Find Us * Amy Traverso * Instagram | Yankee * David Leite * Instagram | Pinterest | Facebook | Youtube * Kate McDermott * Youtube | Facebook | Substack This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidleite.substack.com

    45 min
  7. № 88: We're Back and Live as Hell!

    Mar 5

    № 88: We're Back and Live as Hell!

    WATCH THE EPISODE HERE In this Episode Highlights & “Must-Listen” Moments * 01:28 — Why the Podcast stopped (The “Icky” Business of Sales): A candid look at the costs of production and why going “unscripted” on Substack is the new frontier. * 05:15 — The “Day-to-Day Grind”: Amy reveals how even a professional food editor loses the spark for cooking dinner (and the “Hello Fresh” solution). * 09:20 — The “Juno The Bakery” Mystery: Why are some of the world’s best bakery books so badly written? Amy and David vent about confusing recipes. * 11:45 — The 2-Ingredient Flatbread Debate: David’s “outrage and indignation” over viral TikTok food trends versus real culinary craft. * 13:21 — The Homemade SpaghettiO’s Reveal: David explains Anellini pasta and how he turned a canned childhood memory into a gourmet flat-lay. * 18:53 — Behind the Lens: David shares his specific lighting secrets (Godox AD 600) and how he makes “brown food” like chocolate mousse look like art, not 💩. * 26:38 — Caramelized Onions: The OG Method: David’s take-down of “new” TikTok hacks for onions. Spoiler: Water is the secret, and we’ve been doing it for decades. * 29:04 — Whatever Happened to Clementines? Amy’s moment of outrage over the “Mandarin-ization” of the produce aisle. (Thanks, Lyla Kraft) * 39:38 — Reading with the Boston Pops: Amy shares the nerve-wracking story of reading The Night Before Christmas at Symphony Hall. * 42:24 — A Tour of Portugalia Marketplace: A deep dive into the “Eataly of Portuguese Food” in Fall River—from the Salt Cod room to the best sardines. * 49:20 — Creative Escapism: Why Amy started watercolor painting and the “flow state” benefits of the right side of the brain Recipes * Garlic Butter Steak Bites * Chocolate Mousse (not the Portuguese version, that’s coming) Related Recipes * Vegetarian Lasagne * Easy Bechamel Sauce * Swedish Cardamom Buns * Seared Skirt Steak with Brazilian Salsa * Clam Shack-Style Fried Clams Cookbook Mentions * The Flavor Bible by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page * The Talisman of Happiness by Ada Boni * Who Put the Beef into Wellington? by James Winter (Rob Machado mentioned buying it) * Juno The Bakery by Emil Glaser and Nina Schmiegelow * Forever Paris by Marin Montagut * The Apple Lover’s Cookbook by The Ames herself! * The New Portuguese Table by moi * Notes on a Banana by me Weekend with Yankee * The new season of Weekend with Yankee premieres in April. (Check your local PBS listings.) Gear * Godox AD600Pro Witstro All-in-One Outdoor Flash Where to Find Us * Amy Traverso * Instagram | Yankee * David Leite * Instagram | Pinterest | Facebook | Youtube This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidleite.substack.com

    58 min
  8. № 87: On My Own (For Tonight)

    Feb 27

    № 87: On My Own (For Tonight)

    WATCH THE EPISODE HERE On February 26, I hopped on a Substack live, started talking, and didn’t stop for an hour. Here are the links to the recipes, equipment, cookbooks, and people I mentioned. Hope to see you next time. IN THIS EPISODE Highlights & “Must-Listen” Moments 00:00 — Welcome & agenda: We are trying out a new desktop live format. I share the agenda for the evening, including St. Patrick’s Day prep, a skillet showdown, and an exclusive 2026 cookbook sneak peek! 03:08 — St. Patrick’s Day prep: I give a rundown of my foolproof homemade corned beef method. You can find the cure and cook kit at World Spice. The secrets to success are rinsing the meat well, cooking it low and slow, and always slicing against the grain. 06:06 — Beyond corned beef: We explore other Irish classics from the site. The chocolate Guinness cake is incredibly moist with a cream cheese brown butter frosting. We also talk Irish latkes, beef and Guinness pie, and homemade Irish cream. 10:01 — The great skillet debate: I explain why I made the switch from my Le Creuset nonstick to the Misen carbon steel pan. The Misen gets more nonstick over time, lets you use metal utensils, and avoids the forever chemicals found in traditional nonstick pans. 14:24 — Book 1: Cookies by Vaughn Vreeland: We dive into a brilliant new cookbook featuring the greatest hits of NYT cookies. It even kicks off with my adapted 36-hour Jacques Torres chocolate chip cookie recipe! 18:52 — Book 2: Who Put the Beef into Wellington? by James Winter: We check out a fantastic, photo-free deep dive into the food history behind classic dishes like Chicken Kiev and Waldorf Salad. It makes the absolute perfect hostess gift. 22:31 — Book 3: Loaf Tin Bakes by Flavie Millet-Jeanon: I confess my love for baking and share this gorgeous book dedicated entirely to loaf cakes. It features genius techniques like hidden tubes of filling, which inspired me to buy a square Pullman pan for an upcoming triple lemon loaf cake. 28:51 — Book 4: Centerpiece by Helen Graham: Even though I am notoriously vegetable-averse, this stunning, vegetable-forward book blew me away. Endorsed by Ottolenghi, it features incredible Middle Eastern and North African flavors. 32:53 — Book 5: The Book of Pizza by King Arthur Baking Company: This is my absolute favorite of the bunch. It covers every pizza style imaginable, from New Haven clam to Detroit, with incredible photography and helpful QR codes. 44:12 — Shoutout to Olga’s Basque cheesecake: I give a quick recommendation for a fantastic e-zine by our friend Olga all about Basque cheesecake. It’s phenomenally easy to bake without a water bath. 45:45 — Lisbon recommendations: Answering a viewer’s question about Lisbon, I share my love for Pasteis de Belém and the incredible Time Out Lisbon market, specifically Pap’Açorda. 51:59 — Portuguese food history: I drop a fun fact about how the Portuguese deep-fried green bean dish, peixinhos da horta, introduced the tempura technique to Japan! St. Patrick’s Day & My Corned Beef Cure + Cook Kit Recipes Slow Cooker Irish Beef Stew Homemade Pastrami Corned Beef Hash Twice-Baked Potatoes with Corned Beef Beef and Guinness Pie Cowboy Steaks with Guinness Sauce Pan Boxty ~ Irish Potato Pancakes Irish Soda Bread Guinness Ice Cream Float Chocolate Guinness Cake My Corned Beef Cure + Cook Kit The Gear: Le Creuset vs. Misen Nonstick Misen Nonstick Skillet The 2026 Cookbook Sneak Peek Cookies by Vaughn Vreeland Published October 2025 Book of Pizza by King Arthur Baking Company: Coming in April 2026. Centerpiece by Helen Graham Coming in April 2026 Loaf Tin Bakes by Flavie Millet-Joannon Coming April 2026 Who Put the Beef into Wellington? by James Winter Coming in May 2026 Substackers Mentioned Historian in the Kitchen (review of Vaughn Vreeland’s “Cookies”) Olga Koutseridi (who has the e-zine about Basque cheesecake) This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidleite.substack.com

    56 min
4.9
out of 5
82 Ratings

About

"Talking With My Mouth Full" takes an unexpected--and often irreverent--look at the ways food and drink intersect our lives. In each episode, hosts David Leite and Amy Traverso and their guests question, laugh, and quibble their way through all manner of culinary conundrums, obsessions, fads, and fancies. Follow us on social @amytraverso and @davidleite. davidleite.substack.com

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