Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
How Brian Lichtenheld Climbs Outside 4 Days a Week With a Demanding Job
Brian Lichtenheld talks about how he balances climbing outside 4 days a week with having a demanding 50-hour-a-week job, plus a healthy relationship with his girlfriend, volunteering commitments, and other interests. Brian is my good friend and one of my favorite climbing partners, and he's one of the most psyched climbers I know. In his 20-year climbing career, at the age of 36 he's sent 182 climbs between 5.13a and 5.14a, and he's only getting stronger and more prolific. His tenacity is inspirational.
Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson
Dr. Evan Ingerson is a Doctor of Physical Therapy and Board Certified in Orthopedics who specializes in treating rock climbers. Evan is also one of Coach Alex Stiger’s physical therapists, and she interviewed him all about how to assess and understand your injuries as a rock climber so you don’t feel lost when you have one. They discuss how to know when to go to a doctor, a surgeon, the ER, a PT, an acupuncturist, or some other specialist, whether to ice, and many other climbing injury considerations.
Grades - How to Keep Your Ego in Check with Matt Pincus
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I wax philosophical about climbing grades. This is a ubiquitous topic that all climbers discuss, and a topic that can derail a climbing day or motivate the heck out of a climber.
Matt does remote climbing coaching with people from all over the world, and if you want to train with him, you can go to www.trainingbeta.com/matt. He also built a training program for boulderers that's all laid out for you as a subscription program at www.trainingbeta.com/bouldering.
How Small Changes to Her Diet Led to Big Changes in Her Climbing
In the episode, my former client Laura Schmidt talks about the changes she made to her diet and lifestyle when we worked together and how they improved her energy levels, her climbing, her disordered eating behaviors, and her quality of life. If you want help with your own nutrition, I offer one-on-one consulting and self-paced nutrition education resources specifically made for rock climbers. Find out more at www.trainingbeta.com/nutrition.
Making the Most Out of A Bad Gym Session
Coach Alex and I tackled the topic of making even a "bad" gym session really count. We talk about common triggers for getting into a bad mindset during a session and what to do about them. She provides drills and exercises to help you stay productive and have continued success, even if you're feeling overwhelmed, tired, or shut down.
Alex's new Team cohort starts September 20th - www.trainingbeta.com/team. She's also offering a Gymnastics Rings Workshop at www.trainingbeta.com/rings.
Lor Sabourin on Coming Out + Mindset Advice for Climbers
In this episode I talked with Lor Sabourin, who is a mental training coach for The Rock Warrior's Way, a Master's Student in Counseling, and a non-binary climber who recently became the first non-binary climber to send 5.14 on gear. We talked about their experience of coming out as non-binary to the climbing community, how they manage some common mindset issues in climbing (and in life), and about their eating disorder that they've overcome. More info at www.trainingbeta.com/media/lor-sabourin
Best climbing podcast
My favorite climbing podcast out there! You rock, Neely!
Woke Beta Podcast
Originally my girlfriend and I loved listening to this podcast on road trips when we were getting ready to head to a new crag. Now it’s so hard to listen because it’s too woke. When it comes to issues like gender equality, of course this is necessary and is a quality that is beneficial to society but I don’t need this shoved down my throat every single time I want to listen about training for climbing. I’m over this podcast.
Great content, great host
Neely asked good questions and let her guests talk. It’a actually refreshing. Equally important is the lack of sophomoric bantering and unnecessary sound bites. I strongly disagree with the negativity and criticism.