BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing

Baffle Days, Tom O'Halloran, Amanda Watts

The Australian climbing podcast. Chatting to the old school legends, modern day heroes and everyone else who make up our awesome community. Tune in for stories, opinions, training and nutrition info. Spreading the love.

  1. 14/06/2023

    Buster Martin - Action Directe, finger injury recovery, pocket training, coaching and more

    Buster has been climbing since childhood. He competed for his country as a junior competitor where he made European Championship finals, World Cup semi finals and numerous domestic comp victories. Buster's main focus now is rock climbing. He's the second brit to climb 9a+/36 with his ascent of First Ley in Margalef. Buster has also climbed countless routes in the 8c+-9a 34-35 range including the historic test pieces Hubble and Action Directe. In this chat, we dig into Buster's preparation for Action Directe, the worlds first 9a/35. His pocket training, finger injury recovery and just a bit of froth about the route overall. We also talk about his coaching business, his approach to coaching and how it all works. When we spoke with Buster, he was preparing for a trip to Spain to try a crazy 9b/37 called First Round First Minute, put up by Chris Sharma in 2011. Buster started Kaizen Climbing, his coaching business, to share his knowledge and psyche for training with as many people as he could. If you're interested in connecting with Kaizen, head to their website and give them a follow on instagram. There really is some awesome information in there. Video of Buster on Action Directe Video of Buster on Hubble Buster's instagram Baffle Days' favourite training books can be found here For 15% off Awesome Woodys products use BAFFLEDAYS at checkout. Help you and help the show :)

    1h 40m
  2. 08/11/2022

    Steve Bechtel - new book, goals, embracing new ideas and endurance training

    Steve is the founder of Climb Strong. He’s a climber for more than 30 years, and established over 300 new routes across the globe, from big wall free climbs to 25-foot sport routes on his home crags near Lander, Wyoming. An exercise science graduate of the University of Wyoming, Steve has been studying and experimenting with climbing training methods since his teens. After spending a few years as a full-time climber, Steve opened Elemental Performance + Fitness in 2002. Elemental is a full-service gym in Lander, but was built around the training needs of high-level climbers. We love Steve's ability to boil down the science to lay terms and give practical advice on how to apply it in life. To us, that’s the hallmark of a great coach. Steve’s new book Mettle was the catalyst for this chat. The book digs into the philosophical side of climbing and those softer skills which are so easily forgotten or overshadowed by going hard on strength. We dive into : Our approach to goals and the journey to them Openness to new ideas The evolution of training protocols and the big mistake many people make in their endurance training  Also, no hangs. Are they legit. What are they even? We have Steve’s new book in stock at baffledays.com.au (link in the show notes) along with a couple of Steve’s other awesome books. Unstoppable Force and Logical Progression 2. We also have copies of The Hard Truth by Kris Hampton aka Power Company Climbing and we also have Beastmaking – a fingers first approach to becoming a better climber. A book written by Mr Beastmaker himself, Ned Feehally one of the co founders of Beastmaker. It’s an absolute ripper. I’ve also been working on a little side project product which is now live on the store as well. Take a look and if you think it’s something which may be useful for you or someone you know. I think they’re pretty cool and an environmentally friendly alternative to the single use versions of what’s already out there. Grab one or a couple and let me know what you think. Could be an easy Christmas gift? Far out, we are already saying that word. Registration is now open for the Performance Climb Coach course. Courses content will go live on 14th November and you’ll have access to all the courses until 14th May 2023. Seriously, it’s so worth it. Link in the description. THE LINKS: Sign up for the new intake of PCC https://performanceclimbingcoach.com/ Check out Steve's new book and all the others we have. Plus the cool new product I made. https://www.baffledays.com.au/shop/ If you want to get in touch with Steve and the Climb Strong crew https://www.climbstrongcoach.com/ BAFFLEDAYS at checkout for 15% off at checkout https://awesomewoodys.com/

    1h 25m
  3. 16/02/2022

    Maddy Cope - Freerider, training, headspace and menstruation

    Maddy Cope has climbed Freerider 28/7c+ in Yosemite, La Scimma Nuda, (9 pitch) 29/8a in Switzerland and countless other hard multipitch/trad routes. She's also cranked out a couple 33/8c's, Mind Control and Bat Route, and smashed out 32/8b+ on gear! She's a true allrounder. We talk about her process on Freerider and desire to keep seeking adventure and exploration. We also dig into headspace and finding mental cues to focus the mind while climbing.  Perhaps the best part of our conversation is when we dive deep into the menstrual cycle. Amanda puts her science hat on as well here (Masters Degree in Nutrition and Dietetics + accredited Sport Dietitian) and both Maddy and her talk us through it all. They talk about their own  experiences as well as picking through the current research, discussing what it can tell us. They both have some awesome insights with how their cycle can effect their climbing, training and life and ways you can still get the most out of yourself.  There's some total gold in there for everyone to take home. Fellas, if you're still reading at this point and haven't yet listened to the whole episode, please do. There's a lot to learn and every bit is great. Do your part to understand what half the population experiences for four decades of their life.   Links we mention in the show. Female Climber Series part 1 Female Climber Series Part 2 Female Climber Series Part 3 An overview of the menstrual cycle Contraception Pregnancy and Postpartum Tracking Clue (good for diverse resources on the menstrual cycle, contraception and health   Follow Maddy Cope on Instagram Get in touch with Lattice Training See Amanda to help fuel your climbing life Check out Baffle Days website and on instagram Follow Amanda and Tom on instagram Don't forget BAFFLEDAYS at checkout to get 15% off your next Awesome Woodys training product!

    1h 58m

About

The Australian climbing podcast. Chatting to the old school legends, modern day heroes and everyone else who make up our awesome community. Tune in for stories, opinions, training and nutrition info. Spreading the love.

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