The Cutting Edge

The American Alpine Club
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The Cutting Edge presents in-depth interviews with the world's best climbers, just back from great new climbs, along with historical perspective from the editors of the American Alpine Journal and local experts. This podcast is hosted by Jim Aikman and produced by the American Alpine Club. The Cutting Edge is generously supported by Feathered Friends.

  1. 6 juli

    The Legendary Bombé Bleu Project, with Erwan Legrand, Ben Moon, and Matt Samet

    On February 11, Erwan Legrand—only 17 at the time, and barefoot!—took down one of the longest-standing open projects in the world: Le Bombé Bleu at Buoux, France. Bolted on the La Plage sector in 1991 by Marc Le Menestrel, the 100-foot route features a notoriously difficult precision dyno on its blue-streaked bulge, followed by ferocious tugging on tiny pockets, all clocking in at a lofty 5.15b. Famously, Le Menestrel had opened the route to the community as long as it was left in its natural state, a vision of what climbing might someday become and a challenge for future generations. Thirty-five years later, Legrand—the son of legendary French climber François Legrand—met that challenge with style. Join host Jim Aikman as he talks with Erwan Legrand about his remarkable barefoot redpoint, as well as U.K. icon Ben Moon—one of the route’s early suitors—and American Climbing Journal Editor Matt Samet, who interviewed Legrand about Le Bombé Bleu for the 2027 ACJ. Photo by Fred Ripert.

    The Legendary Bombé Bleu Project, with Erwan Legrand, Ben Moon, and Matt Samet

  2. 19 juni

    Trailer: This Season on the Cutting Edge

    Preview the Cutting Edge's eighth season, featuring interviews with climbing legends like Colin Haley, Sasha DiGiulian, Tommy Caldwell, Benjamin Védrines, and many more. Tune in for monthly episodes to hear the stories behind first ascents, first-person accounts of recent expeditions, and climbing history that puts each climb in context.

  3. 4 juni

    Torre Central All-Free in a Day, with Siebe Vanhee and Tommy Caldwell

    The east face of the Central Tower in Chile's Torres del Paine is one of the great walls of the world. The first route up the face, climbed in 1973 and 1974 by a South African team, had only been freed twice. In February, Belgian Siebe Vanhee (a veteran of two other free ascents on the Central Tower) and American Tommy Caldwell (a newcomer to Torres del Paine but not to Patagonia) completed the third free ascent in remarkable style. On their third attempt, the two climbers raced up the 1,200-meter 5.12 route in exactly 24 hours—in an area where most big-wall ascents take weeks. Host Jim Aikman interviewed both climbers, as well as American Ben Ditto, who was on the first free ascent of the South African Route back in 2009. It's an episode about risk, the ups and downs of multiple efforts on a serious objective, and a partnership that perfectly balances the strengths of two amazing climbers.

    Torre Central All-Free in a Day, with Siebe Vanhee and Tommy Caldwell

  4. 1 maj

    Katie Lamb: Becoming the First Woman to Do V16—Twice

    In March 2025, the Bay Area–based climber Katie Lamb snagged the fourth ascent of Yosemite's most difficult boulder problem, The Dark Side, an unrelenting V16 on small crimps and dire slopers on the Thriller Boulder in Camp 4. In so doing, she became the first woman to climb the grade, but there's a catch: Back in summer 2023, Lamb had already done a V16, a problem called Box Therapy in Colorado—it's just that it was later downgraded to V15. In a complex and nuanced discussion on the state of the art in bouldering—and the evolution of the grading scales we use to classify these ascents—host Jim Aikman talks with Lamb about the passion, hard work, and tactics that went into her ticks. And he interviews The Dark Side's first ascensionist Carlo Traversi, a driving force behind modern Yosemite bouldering, as well as American Climbing Journal Editor Matt Samet, who worked with Lamb on her feature in the upcoming journal, "A Walk on the Dark Side."

    Katie Lamb: Becoming the First Woman to Do V16—Twice

  5. 3 apr.

    Benjamin Védrines: The First Ascent of Jannu East

    One of the highlights of last fall's Nepal season was the first ascent of 7,468-meter Jannu East by French climbers Nicolas Jean and Benjamin Védrines, on their second attempt in two years. In this special episode of the Cutting Edge, Ben Védrines shares the full story of his two expeditions to Jannu, the physical and mental preparation, a "warm up" first ascent on 6,800-meter Anidesh Chuli, and the rapid ascent of Jannu East itself. American alpinist Steve House, a leading protagonist of single-push alpine ascents in the early 2000s and a top coach today, gives his perspective on the training and psychological aspects behind the French climbs. American Alpine Journal editor Dougald MacDonald unpacks the history of climbing on Jannu. There's a lot to share, so we're offering a special extended episode....enjoy!

    Benjamin Védrines: The First Ascent of Jannu East

  6. 2 mars

    Massive Climbs and Wild Adventures in Mozambique

    The enormous granite peaks of Mozambique are among Africa's most impressive rock formations, yet fewer than a dozen climbing teams have ever explored them. In 2025, a Spanish and American trio put up a 17-pitch route in Mozambique, and for this episode we spoke with American Dakota Walz about what they encountered, including a seemingly inscrutable bureaucracy and a night in detention before they could even start the climb. Following the successful ascent, they suffered debilitating illness, thanks to ill-advised celebratory ice cream. In between were some glorious days on a unique African mountain, creating a route worth repeating. Host Jim Aikman also chats with Majka Burhardt, a veteran of two expeditions to Mozambique, about navigating the cultural and logistical challenges in a country struggling with a legacy of conflict. And AAJ editor Dougald MacDonald shares insights on southern Africa's extraordinary granite climbing.

    Massive Climbs and Wild Adventures in Mozambique

  7. 2 feb.

    Eight Women, Six New Routes in Greenland

    Last summer, the Women's Young Alpinist Team of the Swiss Alpine Club journeyed to East Greenland—without ever boarding a plane—and they climbed six long new rock routes, four of them in a fjord never that had never been visited by climbers. Team leader Caro North is our main guest this episode, describing the logistical difficulties of organizing such a complex exploratory trip, especially with a team of expedition novices. Just getting there and back involved trains, ferries, cars, and a voyage by sail. Yet even though she was the most experienced climber in the group, Caro deliberately stepped back from the decision-making, letting the young team members plan and lead their routes—a rewarding tactic for Caro, but also one with some emotional challenges. To round out this episode, host Jim Aikman interviewed American Mike Libecki, who has done more exploratory rock climbing in East Greenland than anyone alive, including all of the early climbs in the second fjord the Swiss team visited. Enjoy!

    Eight Women, Six New Routes in Greenland

  8. 2025-12-30

    Sasha DiGiulian on El Cap's Direct Line

    In November, Sasha DiGiulian free climbed The Direct Line (a.k.a. Platinum Wall), a 39-pitch 5.13d route on El Cap, in a 23-day push, including nine days trapped by a storm high on the route. For this episode, Jim Aikman explores the history and highlights of this relatively new route (first free ascent: 2017), which is becoming known as one of El Cap's best and most sustained free climbs. You'll hear DiGiulian describe the route and her climb, the long and varied trajectory of her climbing career, and the value of first female ascents. You'll also hear from Elliot Faber, co-developer of The Direct Line and Sasha's partner for most of the climb (and his cool explanation of The Direct Line name); Alex Honnold, who also free climbed the route in November, with Tommy Caldwell; and Dougald MacDonald, editor of the AAJ. In the photo: Sasha DiGiulian leading the Platinum pitch (5.13a) on The Direct Line. Photo by Christian Pondella, courtesy of Red Bull.

    Sasha DiGiulian on El Cap's Direct Line
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Om

The Cutting Edge presents in-depth interviews with the world's best climbers, just back from great new climbs, along with historical perspective from the editors of the American Alpine Journal and local experts. This podcast is hosted by Jim Aikman and produced by the American Alpine Club. The Cutting Edge is generously supported by Feathered Friends.

Information

  • Skapad av
    The American Alpine Club
  • Aktiva år
    2017 - 2026
  • Avsnitt
    80
  • Åldersgräns
    Vuxet innehåll
  • Copyright
    © All rights reserved
  • Programmets webbplats
    The Cutting Edge

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