How Fitting: design a slow fashion business that fits

Alison Hoenes | women's apparel patternmaker
How Fitting: design a slow fashion business that fits

How Fitting® is the podcast for slow fashion designers who want to create clothing and grow a business that fits their customer, lifestyle, and values. In biweekly episodes, hear how relatable fashion entrepreneurs (the kind who run their businesses from kitchen tables and cutting tables, not boardroom tables) navigate the fashion industry with integrity and define success based on their own principles. In each conversation, host Alison Hoenes (a freelance women’s apparel patternmaker) explores the things that all slow fashion business owners experience: the vulnerability of launching something new, the deeply empathetic process of designing clothes that fit a niche market, the challenges of pursuing both financial and environmental sustainability, the late nights of reckoning with your values that make you consider shutting the whole thing down, and the rewarding moments that make it all worth it. In addition, hear from experienced fashion industry resources that are helping indie designers make a difference and a profit – like low MOQ factories, fashion marketing and business coaches, or sustainable fabric suppliers. How Fitting® offers validation that you are not alone in your fashion entrepreneurship experience, ideas to try on in your fashion business to create a better fit, and a curious look into how other slow fashion brands are making it work. How fitting is that?

  1. 28 JAN

    Questions To Ask Your Fabric Supplier To Ensure Quality & Consistency with Thomas Oviedo of Carr Textile

    Sourcing fabrics that fit their design, values, and budget is one of the biggest challenges designers face in making their designs a reality. It is such a relief when you can find a fabric supplier you can count on to grow your business. In episode 109, meet Thomas Oviedo, the Sales Manager at Carr Textile. In our conversation, he breaks down Carr’s fabric offerings, printing services, and rigorous quality testing process. Thomas also shares a list of questions to ask fabric suppliers to determine which fabric is the right fit for your project. Whether you are looking for 1yd or upwards of 10,000yds, Carr is here to help. Thomas Oviedo is the Sales Manager at Carr Textile Corporation, a leading name in stock fabric programs, digital printing on all fibers, and cap component manufacturing.  With over 23 years of extensive experience in the textile industry across various sectors, Thomas has developed a deep understanding of market dynamics and customer needs. With a remarkable 51 years in business, Carr Textile has established itself as a one-stop shop, offering an extensive range of fabric options and services to meet the diverse needs of the industry.  Carr Textile boasts a current stock inventory exceeding 6 million yards, all available with no minimum order requirements, making it a go-to resource for customers.  Recently, Carr Textile acquired Philips-Boyne, a fine woven shirting company based in New York. This strategic acquisition positions Carr Textile to better serve various segments of the apparel industry, further enhancing its market reach. In this episode, you’ll learn: The innovative printing services Carr Textile offers within their TexTerra division The pros, cons, and costs of different printing methods What types of fabrics Carr Textile offers and specializes in Where Carr produces and stocks their fabrics The extensive fabric testing Carr Textile does in-house to ensure quality and consistency The ways Carr Textile supports brands from start-up to large corporate Good questions to ask your fabric supplier  Thomas’ outlook on the effects of potential tariff increases The eco-friendly fabric lines and printing processes Carr offers People and resources mentioned in this episode: Carr Textile website Carr Textile Instagram Thomas’ email Thomas’ LinkedIn Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

    1h 2m
  2. 14 JAN

    The Adventures Of Outdoor Apparel Entrepreneurship with Suzi Zook of Alta Reina

    Which is the bigger adventure: alpine skiing or starting a fashion brand? For Alta Reina founder Suzi Zook, they each provide their own set of thrills and challenges. In episode 108, Suzi tells of the peaks and valleys of starting her outdoor apparel brand made to fit tall women. From navigating sustainable sourcing of performance fabrics to overcoming pre-production self-doubt, Suzi is gearing up (in fun colors) for the long run. Suzi Zook is the engine behind Alta Reina, a clothing brand focused on high-quality, responsibly sourced materials and U.S. manufacturing. Tailored for tall women, Alta Reina offers vibrant, functional clothing with practical details like pockets, combining style and functionality for women who need more than the standard fit. Suzi holds a B.S. in Family and Consumer Sciences from Oregon State University, with a minor in music. A former rugby player and team president, she later became an assistant coach after graduation. Suzi has also worked as a substitute teacher in Oregon and Washington. After her time at REI, she pursued a graduate degree in Elementary Education from USC's Rossier School of Education. Suzi’s seven-year tenure at REI gave her extensive experience across a variety of roles, including repairs, rentals, customer service, footwear, and marketing. Her marketing work involved creating promotional videos and making guest appearances on morning talk shows to promote outdoor recreation and REI products. Through her work at REI, she developed a deep understanding of how clothing and shoes fit and perform, helping customers find apparel that suits their bodies. At 5’11", Suzi has always faced challenges finding clothing that fits her athletic frame. After years of crafting her own clothes, marrying a 6’10" partner, and raising two tall daughters, she realized the need for a brand that catered to women like her. The struggles her family faced finding well-fitting winter gear and swimsuits inspired the launch of Alta Reina (originally considered "Mountain Amazon"). In 2020, Suzi explored the market potential for a tall women's outdoor brand at the Outdoor Retailer trade show. Although the concept garnered interest, the COVID-19 pandemic delayed her plans. After recovering and caring for her family, Suzi enrolled in the Factory 45 mentorship program. Over the next two years, she sourced fabrics and U.S.-based manufacturers, overcoming setbacks like factories pivoting away from small designers. Eventually, she found a manufacturing partner in The Bronx, NY, and launched Alta Reina’s first line of base layers in Fall 2024. Suzi is committed to ethical production, opposing fast fashion and ensuring fair treatment of workers. While polyester is used for its durability and protection, she is dedicated to responsible sourcing. Her journey is fueled by a passion for creating stylish, functional clothing for tall women. Outside of work, Suzi continues to substitute teach and enjoys Nordic and alpine skiing, yoga, swimming, horseback riding, hiking, and mountain biking. She also sews and adds personal touches to her wardrobe. In this episode, you’ll learn: What didn’t fit about existing outdoor apparel in the market What is so special about niche brands How she got feedback on her brand concept before starting anything Why Suzi prefers to DIY many things in her business The point she realized she needed more education and accountability How Suzi is funding Alta Reina The point in development that scared her and how her husband’s advice helped her move forward How Suzi got connected with her patternmaker (me) and her factory The factors that influenced what products she started with How Alta Reina balances sustainability with performance People and resources mentioned in this episode: Alta Reina website Alta Reina Instagram Outdoor Retailer trade show Factory 45 sustainable fashion brand accelerator Do you want fashion busine

    52 min
  3. 19/11/2024

    With Aging and Fashion Business, The Only Constant Is Change with Julie Corwin of Birdie & Claire

    With age, comes wisdom - and also change. Women 50+ years old are often overlooked by the fashion industry, but Birdie & Claire founder Julie Corwin celebrates style at every age. As these women go through transitions in their lives and bodies, Julie’s business has changed as well. In episode 107, Julie shares how her brand has stayed flexible and draws inspiration from the experience of women who have come before her. Julie is the founder and owner of Birdie & Claire, an independent women’s apparel brand dedicated to timeless, elevated style for women at every stage of life. The inspiration for Birdie & Claire came when Julie was shopping with her mom, aunt, and grandmother for an upcoming family wedding, and she noticed the limited age-inclusive clothing options available. Hearing their frustration about the lack of brands catering to women as they age inspired Julie to create a line that celebrates timeless style and confidence across generations. After completing her MBA, Julie launched Birdie & Claire, producing thoughtfully designed small-batch collections in NYC, with knitwear sustainably crafted on demand in Brooklyn. Birdie & Claire’s focus on versatile, flattering pieces that mix and match seamlessly is rooted in the brand’s mission to create clothing that resonates with women of all ages and offers style, comfort, and quality that is made to last. In this episode, you’ll learn: How Birdie & Claire defines age-appropriateness How Julie designs and runs her business with change in mind Where Julie gathered research outside of customer interviews and what it revealed The silver lining of starting her brand during the peak of the pandemic Why Julie decided to offer both knitwear and cut & sew pieces in her brand Why Birdie & Claire’s first collection was more casual when the initial idea was for eventwear What Julie did to better understand the language of fashion The stereotypes about and the diversity amongst women age 50+ How Birdie & Claire supports Julie in her current stage of life The wisdom Julie has learned from older women People and resources mentioned in this episode: Birdie & Claire website Birdie & Claire Instagram Julie’s Email Wiser Than Me podcast Fashion Reimagined documentary Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

    53 min
  4. 05/11/2024

    How Customer Conversations Become Actionable and Empathetic Insights with Erin Cavanaugh of See ROSE Go

    In episode 106, Erin shares how conversations have shaped their brand and how she turns those insights into empathetic action. It was after decades in the industry at big-name brands like Nike, Converse, and Nordstrom that Erin and her co-founder realized just how hard it is for plus-size women to find clothes that fit after an elevator conversation with a co-worker. That conversation sparked others that began Erin and Yi’s entrepreneurial journey as the founders of See ROSE Go. Accomplished Chief Merchandising Officer with over 20 years of industry experience leading innovative strategies across fashion and retail, Erin’s career began as a Nordstrom buyer. It was with Nordstrom that Erin discovered her passion for enhancing the customer experience, through empathy and an in-depth understanding of the customer’s point of view. Nike Inc. recruited Erin to lead an Outlet division for Men’s, Women’s, and Kid’s Apparel and Accessories. She was quickly promoted to direct Men’s Apparel Merchandising for the Asia Pacific / China region. More recently, she drove significant growth in women’s apparel, optimizing product lines and achieving exceptional GM% as the Global Women’s Merchandising Director. In these roles, Erin remained consumer-centric, leading insight strategy and product creation to enhance the overall customer experience through superior products. In 2018, Erin co-founded See ROSE Go, a plus-size fashion brand with an ethos in intentional design, innovation, and mindful sustainability.  Leading merchandising strategy, omni-channel distribution, and business development, Erin also successfully secured VC funding as a new founder with a newborn at home. In 2021, See ROSE Go received an honorable mention in Fast Company’s Innovation by Design Awards for the proprietary tech/lifestyle fabric, CoolROSE™. In 2023 Erin received a U.S. Patent for this fabric. CoolROSE™ was invented as a direct response to issues women deal with but seldom speak about -  body heat, sweat, and pilling from friction between body parts. Erin and See ROSE Go have been recognized by Forbes, CBS Money, and WWD for challenging industry norms. She was recently featured with her Co-Founder, Yi Zhou, in Authority Magazine as female disruptors shaking up their industry. It is the See ROSE Go mission to see women embrace their power and “go”. To Erin, style isn’t just how a woman looks, it is how she moves and feels and the impact she makes while wearing See ROSE Go. Get to know more about Erin and See ROSE Go at, https://seerosego.com/blogs/meet-the-founders In this episode, you’ll learn: How co-founders Erin and Yi start and continue conversations with women in their target market How Erin organizes the insights from each conversation and breaks them down into actionable information How Erin’s Nike background gives her a performance-focused product perspective The market gap that See ROSE Go fills and the revelation that started it all The process of developing and patenting their CoolROSE fabric How Erin stays connected with the See ROSE Go community How Erin and Yi have funded the brand and why they’ve changed approaches over the years What Erin is most proud of People and resources mentioned in this episode: See ROSE Go website (Erin shared a 20% discount with How Fitting listeners! Use code SMILE.) See ROSE Go Instagram Erin’s LinkedIn Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

    55 min
  5. 22/10/2024

    Expectations Vs. Reality of Fair Trade Manufacturing with Ari Louise of Glean & Grace

    In episode 105, hear the step-by-step timeline that Ari took to design, launch, and produce her first product for her historically-inspired maternity brand Glean & Grace. In our conversation, she reveals the ways the process didn’t go as planned, but how it has been rewarding and encouraging nonetheless.  Ari is a trained tailor turned sustainable clothing designer. Ari and her husband have 2 kids, a 3 year old and an 18 month old. She uses historic patterning and modern design to create beautifully functional clothing for mothers who want to feel like themselves again. In this episode, you’ll learn: How working with a factory was different than Ari expected How Ari got connected with her factory and fabric supplier What Ari sent to her factory to get started How Ari’s perspective on designing clothing changed when she started making clothes for others instead of just herself Why historical maternity clothes are a key source of inspiration for Glean & Grace The exact timeline it took to launch Glean & Grace’s first product Why Ari is thankful she didn’t meet her day-of-launch goal What Ari is planning to do differently for her next collection People and resources mentioned in this episode: Glean & Grace website Glean & Grace Instagram Motif Handmade - fair trade handwoven fabrics Thanapara Swallows - fair trade factory Fashion Brain Academy - Jane Hamill Mrs. Emily brand Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

    57 min
  6. 09/10/2024

    Valuing The Longevity Of Clothing with Aiste Zitnikaite of Devinto

    In episode 104, hear how Aiste designs for longevity, how she’s learned to do better when it comes to sustainability over the years, and what still needs to happen to make ethical fashion brands viable in the long-term. With over a decade in business, Aiste knows what works and what doesn’t and openly shares her knowledge. Aiste Zitnikaite is a Lithuanian born designer based in Hyannis, Cape Cod, MA. Aiste studied fashion design at Lasalle College in Montreal, Canada and spent several years working in Montreal’s fashion industry. This is when she became more aware of some of the problematic practices of mainstream fashion brands such as wastefulness and the working conditions at overseas factories. This is when her interest in sustainable fashion truly developed. It was the early 2000s, so sustainability was not that often discussed in fashion.  Aiste’s passion for a more eco-conscious alternative led her to seek out brands that focused on ethical production but she found it hard to find designs that appealed to her aesthetic. In 2013, DEVINTO was created to fill that gap in the market as a sustainable, ethically conscious slow fashion label. Her specialty is in classic, elegant women’s wear that’s made to order (and often custom made) from her studio. Inspired by style that is at once feminine and empowering, elegant and defiant, while remaining simple and comfortable, Aiste designs, patterns, cuts and sews every piece in her studio.  Longevity is a key design component for DEVINTO. With a taste for vintage and French fashion, DEVINTO has a timeless aesthetic and a belief that while style and glamor should be easily accessible, fashion should not harm our planet. Production is purposeful that is why all designs are hand cut in small batches to minimize waste and overproduction. The customers are encouraged to reach out directly for more personalized fits. Aiste aims to bring back a more personal connection to clothing that was sadly lost in the wake of mass produced fashion. In this episode, you’ll learn: Why Aiste wanted to do better with her brand and what “better” means to her Why most of Devinto’s collections are made with knit fabrics How Aiste designs for longevity How Aiste manages her time  How Devinto’s business model works with the seasonality of the location Why Aiste sells on Etsy in addition to her own website Why Aiste teaches sewing alongside running her own brand What Aiste thinks it will take for sustainable fashion businesses to be more profitable People and resources mentioned in this episode: Devinto website Devinto Instagram Devinto TikTok Aiste’s LinkedIn Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

    58 min
  7. 24/09/2024

    Making The “Right” Next Move For Your Brand with Kristen Chester of Casa Danu

    In episode 103, Kristen Chester shares the beautiful moments and the uncertain realities of growing a fashion brand. She started Casa Danu after surviving breast cancer which transformed the way she thinks about clothing. Her mission with the brand is to help women feel more alive and more like themselves no matter what they are going through. Tune in to hear how Kristen makes decisions about production, materials, and profitability in alignment with this mission. Kristen is the founder of Casa Danu, a sustainable womenswear brand focused on vibrant, chic, and print-forward clothing (think caftans, kimonos, and coordinated sets) that has 1 goal: to help as many women as possible, especially those impacted by cancer, feel beautiful, empowered, and full of life. Kristen started the brand after being diagnosed with breast cancer at 34 years old and 6 months pregnant. During this time, when she was at her lowest physically, mentally, and emotionally, she longed for comfortable clothing that helped her feel put together, beautiful, and ALIVE. Today, Casa Danu exists to uplift women going through similar challenges, cancer or otherwise, who feel that they have lost a part of themselves. Every Casa Danu purchase helps donate a beautiful garment to a deserving woman impacted by cancer, spreading a little extra joy where it’s needed most. In this episode, you’ll learn: Why joy and color became integral aspects of the Casa Danu brand What transformed Kristen’s perspective on clothing Why Kristen wanted to start her brand “right” and what “right” meant to her How Kristen finds the budget to donate one product for every product sold The ways Casa Danu has helped Kristen reconnect with herself and helped other women connect with each other How Kristen makes decisions that are values-aligned in her business People and resources mentioned in this episode: Casa Danu website Casa Danu Instagram Let My People Go Surfing book by Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard Factory 45 - sustainable fashion brand accelerator Masala Threads - ethical manufacturing consulting agency Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

    52 min
  8. 10/09/2024

    What Women Really Think About Pockets According To Research with Aditi Sinha of Point of View Label

    In episode 102, women’s workwear brand founder Aditi Sinha speaks out against pocket inequality for women in the workplace. Hear how she is leveraging extensive research and customer feedback to close this gap - not just with the size of pockets - through her brand Point of View Label.  Aditi Sinha is the founder & CEO of Point of View, a Seattle based functional and designer workwear brand on a mission to end pockets inequality for women through smartphone pockets in everything they make. POV has started the 'Pockets Pledge' movement, a change.org petition where women all over the world demand functional pockets from the fashion industry. With over 15 years of work experience, Aditi is a big tech marketing executive alum with the likes of Amazon as well as early member of decacorn start ups back home in India. In her role as a founder and former corporate business leader, she has mentored multiple women and start ups in the early stages of their professional journey. Aditi is passionate about bringing meaningful change with respect to women's equity and diversity.  In this episode, you’ll learn: Aditi’s point of view on women’s workwear Why pocket inequality is a big deal in the workplace The research Aditi did before starting POV and what it revealed about today’s women in the workforce How Point of View Label’s brand tenants helped curate their debut collection How Aditi met her co-founder Sakina How Aditi collects and organizes customer feedback in a way that is useful for future reference When polarizing designs are a good thing People and resources mentioned in this episode: Point of View Label website Point of View Label Instagram Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

    1 hr

About

How Fitting® is the podcast for slow fashion designers who want to create clothing and grow a business that fits their customer, lifestyle, and values. In biweekly episodes, hear how relatable fashion entrepreneurs (the kind who run their businesses from kitchen tables and cutting tables, not boardroom tables) navigate the fashion industry with integrity and define success based on their own principles. In each conversation, host Alison Hoenes (a freelance women’s apparel patternmaker) explores the things that all slow fashion business owners experience: the vulnerability of launching something new, the deeply empathetic process of designing clothes that fit a niche market, the challenges of pursuing both financial and environmental sustainability, the late nights of reckoning with your values that make you consider shutting the whole thing down, and the rewarding moments that make it all worth it. In addition, hear from experienced fashion industry resources that are helping indie designers make a difference and a profit – like low MOQ factories, fashion marketing and business coaches, or sustainable fabric suppliers. How Fitting® offers validation that you are not alone in your fashion entrepreneurship experience, ideas to try on in your fashion business to create a better fit, and a curious look into how other slow fashion brands are making it work. How fitting is that?

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