From Ralph Lauren’s master class in American eclecticism and the return of skinny jeans (!) at Prada to Dior’s day-after party boys and Michael Rider’s expansive, energetic Celine, the spring 2027 men’s season has reached its conclusion (that is, until September, when the brands that show their collections co-ed-style rev up). It was a season dominated by flowing suits (Armani, Soshiotsuki), smooshed little shoes (Celine, Auralee), dreamy, sherbert-y colors (Dries Van Noten, Saint Laurent), and wild swerves (Rick Owens, Junya Watanabe). Everything a man could want, really. In this week’s episode of The Run-Through, Nicole Phelps talks to contributing fashion critic Luke Leitch (just hours off the plane from Jacquemus’s show in Corsica) and senior fashion news editor Max Berlinger about what they saw on the catwalks of Europe, and what their big takeaways were from the spring 2027 season as it stands now. Discussed is Ralph Lauren’s masterful follow-up to last season’s beloved show (most viewed of the season), and Leitch’s admiration for the quality of both the label’s high-end Purple collection as well as the more populist Polo line; the skinny jeans revival at Prada (despite Raf Simons and Mrs. Prada being avowed denim-averse), see-through shoes at Saint Laurent, the showstopping wave at Louis Vuitton, and much more. But most of all, the talk was the triumph that was Michael Rider’s Celine. “You had formality, informality, ceremony, lack of ceremony, athleticism,” Leitch said. “There was a lot of really playful accessory details. And I think that that would've been my highlight [was the] easy approach to eclecticism and a kind of everything everywhere all at once approach— it feels to me like it's the mood of the moment.” The Run-Through with Vogue is your go-to podcast where fashion meets culture. Hosted by Chloe Malle, Head of Editorial Content, Vogue U.S.; Chioma Nnadi, Head of British Vogue; and Nicole Phelps, Director of Vogue Runway, each episode features the latest fashion news and exclusive designer and celebrity interviews. Learn about your ad choices: dovetail.prx.org/ad-choices
