Hairspring Hairspring

Erik & Max tour through some of the more significant innovations ever in the history of watchmaking to ask, ‘Where are all the innovations?’ Including conversations around silicon, dubious 3940s, and trench watches. Then we invite a Rolex AD to come give a peer behind the curtain of Rolex to see how things really work. Plus, an Only Wrist to save Boeing.



Links Mentioned:



Innovations:



https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_watches



https://wornandwound.com/watchmakers-bench-what-makes-it-tick-part-3-keyless-works-and-the-hand-setting-mechanism/



https://hairspring.com/finds/740-036-a-lange-sohne-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon/



https://monochrome-watches.com/history-automatic-watch-first-automatic-pocket-watch-first-automatic-wristwatch-technical-perspective/



https://www.windvintage.com/blog/2022/9/7/the-oyster-story



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-modern-watch-escapement-and-how-it-got-that-way



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/zenith-defy-inventor-introducing



https://www.phillips.com/article/120989115/a-guide-to-the-patek-philippe-advanced-research-series



3 Questions:



https://speedmaster101.com/



https://goldammer.me/products/omega-seamaster-deville-18k



https://www.gronefeld.com/collection/1941-principia/white-gold-br-or-br-stainless-steel-5/



https://hairspring.com/exclusives/gronefeld/1941-principia-sydel-sydel-edition-steel/



https://hairspring.com/exclusives/mbf/legacy-machine-lm2-titanium/



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/all-three-versions-of-the-new-mbandf-lm101-2021-edition



https://www.phillips.com/detail/mbf/CH080121/226?fromSearch=hodinkee%20&searchPage=1



https://www.acollectedman.com/products/buy-voutilinen-prototype-vingt8-platinum-watch



https://hairspring.com/finds/green-don-bezel-2998-3-omega-speedmaster/



Only Wrist:



https://hairspring.com/finds/3947-breguet-classique-rattrapante/



https://hairspring.com/exclusives/omega/105-012-65-tropical-dial-speedmaster-steel/



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Je-07hM0sTo



https://hairspring.com/exclusives/breitling/806-valjoux-72-aopa-navitimer-steel/

What does the Rolex 6238 black dial have in common with the Zenith 135? Why was Erik wrong to judge a green 5711? And what does Max think the first person to step foot on mars should wear for the occasion? All this and more, with a brief interrogation this week. 



Links Mentioned:



The Gentlemen:



https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/the-gentlemen-watches-2024 



Q-Ships:



https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Q-ship



Q-Watches: 



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/does-great-movement-finishing-mean-a-great-watch



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/zenith-caliber-135-observatoire-limited-edition-voutilainen-phillips-2022



https://hairspring.com/finds/zenith-x-voutilainen-x-phillips-calibre-135-o/



https://www.ablogtowatch.com/laurent-ferrier-galet-classic-tourbillon-double-spiral-watch-review/



https://le-monde-edmond.com/in-depth-review-rolex-6238-pre-daytona/



https://hairspring.com/finds/philippe-dufour-simplicity/



Only Wrist:



https://revolutionwatch.com/cartier-a-santos-story/



https://www.akrivia.com/watch/tourbillon-chronographe-monopoussoir/

Erik & Max attempt to answer the question, ‘What separates good finishing from bad finishing?’ It is a question that requires them to go through all the various finishing techniques you’re likely to see in detail, explain why the Le Mans caseback is, sort of, ugly, and ask if you should care about inner angles. Plus, what should Indiana Jones have worn in Raiders of the Lost Ark?



Links Mentioned:



Memorial Day Article & Great Historic Watch Accounts:



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/through-watches-those-who-have-died-in-service-of-their-country-are-remembered



https://www.instagram.com/niccoloy/



https://www.instagram.com/watchesofespionage/



Finishing: 



https://perezcope.com/2021/08/08/panerai-in-house-movements-a-pam-of-worms/



Côtes de Genève:



https://www.watchprosite.com/horological-meandering/what-makes-for-really-good-c%C3%B4tes-de-gen%C3%A8ve-/17.1298116.11050241/



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/up-close-and-personal-with-the-2023-rolex-le-mans-daytona-ref-126529ln#&gid=1&pid=14



https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/philippe-dufour-crafts-watches



https://monochrome-watches.com/laurent-ferrier-galet-classic-tourbillon-double-spiral-reviewing-an-understated-masterpiece-photos-specs-and-price/



Anglage:



Flat 45-degree Anglage:



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-omega-speedmaster-professional-moonwatch-master-chronometer-with-co-axial-caliber-3861#&gid=1&pid=4



Bercé or Bombé Style:



https://www.acollectedman.com/pages/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-two



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watch-spotting-kari-voutilainen-interview#&gid=1&pid=8



Zero Chamfering:



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-hi-beat-36000-gmt-limited-edition-sbgj227-peacock-hands-on#&gid=1&pid=7



Matte or Frosted Bridges:



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/with-the-romain-gauthier-logical-one-in-white-gold



https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/09/sylvain-pinaud-origine-review.html



https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/06/lange-sohne-handwerkskunst-reference-guide.html



Skeletonization:



https://hairspring.com/finds/43032-vacheron-constantin-skeleton-quantieme-perpetuel-platinum/



Black Polish:



https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-specs-price/



https://hairspring.com/finds/kikuchi-nakagawa-murakumo/



Examples:



No Finishing Valjoux 7731:



https://thewatchspotblog.com/breitling-superocean-ref-2005-valjoux-cal-7731/



Industrially Finished Omega 3861:



https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-speedmaster-moonwatch-professional-co-axial-master-chronometer-chronograph-42-mm-31030425001002



Vintage Hand Finished Patek Philippe Calibre 12-20:



https://hairspring.com/exclusives/patek-philippe/592-salmon-dial-calatrava-steel/



https://revolutionwatch.com/history-of-the-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-chronograph/



Traditional Finishing Style Performed Today:



https://www.acollectedman.com/products/philippe-dufour-grande-et-petite-sonnerie



Contemporary, More Innovative Finishing:



https://watchesbysjx.com/2023/07/petermann-bedat-reference-2941-split-seconds-chronograph-review.html



https://watchesbysjx.com/2018/04/introducing-the-romain-gauthier-insight-micro-rotor-in-black-titanium.html



16/1860:



https://hairspring.com/finds/16-1860-2-chopard-luc-calibre-1-96-2/



Only Wrist:



https://hairspring.com/exclusives/eberhard/11538-scientigraf-steel/



https://hairspring.com/finds/us-navy-tornek-rayville-tr-900/

Erik & Max go from the absurd to the practical with two major topics this week. The first headline is a rewrite of athlete’s watches, we make choices for what we’d like to see Michael Jordan, Ayrton Senna, Bubba Watson, and even Conor McGregor wear. Second, we get serious with a primer on vintage engraved enamel Patek Philippe dial construction and the very basics of assessing condition (including a practice session with some upcoming lots at NYC auctions). Finally, an Only Wrist which asks, ‘What is the ultimate dad watch?’



Links Mentioned:



Conor McGregor:



https://www.richardmille.com/historical-models/rm-38-01-tourbillon-bubba-watson



https://www.acollectedman.com/products/oilean-hb-1-titanium



https://hairspring.com/finds/mbf-lm-perpetual-calendar/



Michael Jordan:



https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/fashion/article/michael-jordan-a-lange-sohne-datograph



https://www.gq.com/story/watches-of-the-week-7-2-22



https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/HK080423/858



https://hairspring.com/finds/fap-6263-rolex-daytona/



https://hairspring.com/finds/coral-red-stella-dial-1803-rolex-day-date/



Ayrton Senna:



https://www.ayrton-senna.net/watch-collection-of-ayrton-senna/



https://www.fratellowatches.com/universal-geneve-senna-41-52mondayz-week-41/



https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-213-350



https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-part-i/daytona-john-player-special-reference-6241-a



https://hairspring.com/finds/1163-viceroy-mh-bezel-heuer-autavia/



Bubba Watson:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9sWVRLUPxHQ (Hovercraft)



https://www.phillips.com/detail/heuer/NY080222/26



https://hairspring.com/finds/1830-iwc-golf-club-sl/



https://watchesbysjx.com/2021/04/iwc-big-pilot-shock-absorber-xpl.html

(Misspoke, 30K G, not 300K G)



Lebron:



https://www.gq.com/story/watches-of-the-week-4-17-21



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-nautilus-5711-tiffany-blue-phillips-new-york-2021



https://loupethis.com/auctions/patek-philippe-jumbo-nautilus-3700-retailed-by-tiffany-co



https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/24



https://www.phillips.com/detail/bulgari/HK080323/8043



https://www.acollectedman.com/products/gerald-genta-skeletonised-perpetual-calendar-white-gold



Joel Embiid:



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/is-the-tudor-pelagos-fxd-the-best-watch-of-2021



https://hairspring.com/finds/fp-journe-chronometre-bleu/



https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/NY080118/72



Patek Philippe:



True Enamel Examples:



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-2526-and-why-its-a-watch-to-pay-attention-to



https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/



https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-2577-the-elusive-enamel-time-only-watch/



https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080118/268



Engraved Enamel Examples:



https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-steel-sector-dial-ref-130a/



https://italianwatchspotter.com/patek-philippe-ref-2499-guide/?lang=en



https://revolutionwatch.com/padellone-patek-philippes-most-elegant-perpetual-calendar-the-3448/



Auction Examples:



https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/NY080124/30



https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/NY080124/39



https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches/reference-1436-a-rare-pink-gold-split-seconds



Only Wrist:



https://hairspring.com/finds/fuerza-aerea-del-peru-fap-2913-8-omega-seamaster-300/



https://www.windvintage.com/ikepod-red-manatee-new-old-stock-full-set

Erik & Max engage in a battle of hot (and lukewarm) contrarian takes for our first audience-sourced Hot Takes episode. Buckle up. Plus, what is the most interesting watch in the world?



Links Mentioned:



https://www.nytimes.com/2024/05/10/arts/design/christies-cyberattack-website.html



https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/vintage-cartier-watches-rise-explained-1234871141/



https://www.acollectedman.com/products/octa-sport-titanium-ars2-yellow-dial



https://www.fratellowatches.com/can-microbrands-pull-off-high-end-watchmaking/



https://www.adweek.com/media/hodinkee-crown-caliber/



https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=874313



The Most Interesting Man in the World:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYdwe3ArFWA



Only Wrist:



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-vantablack-case-2022



https://hairspring.com/finds/onyx-dial-18206-rolex-day-date/



https://hairspring.com/finds/cartier-tank-a-guichet/



https://hairspring.com/finds/5513-7-double-reference-rolex-royal-navy-milsub/

Erik & Max embark on their first collection building exercise: 3 watches from either Rolex or Tudor for 75K US. The catch is we’re requiring one 6-digit, one 5-digit, and one 4-digit watch each. Plus, some deeper thoughts on the way Tudor and Rolex are positioning themselves these days, breaking news, and an Only Wrist for a designer at Ferrari. 



Links Mentioned:



https://www.richardmille.com/collections/rm-s14



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-watches-and-fashion-of-met-gala-2024



Six Digit Discussion:



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-datejust-36-palm-and-fluted-dials-introducing



https://www.phillips.com/article/113102860/rolex-day-date-eisenkiesel



https://timeandtidewatches.com/rolex-explorer-ii-review-reference-216570-42mm/



https://hairspring.com/finds/sas-216570-rolex-explorer-ii/



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-white-gold-rolex-le-mans-daytona-is-discontinued



https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=942842



https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/watches-online-7/reference-116520-daytona-a-stainless-steel-2



Five Digit:



https://www.fratellowatches.com/matte-dial-rolex-gmt-master-16750/



https://hairspring.com/finds/spider-dial-16750-rolex-gmt-master/



https://hairspring.com/finds/16520-patrizzi-rolex-daytona/



Four Digit:



https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-2/reference-6105-datejust-ovettone-a-pink-gold



https://tudorcollector.com/collection/example-watch-5/



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-thirteen-milsubs-of-grahame-fowler



Only Wrist:



https://hairspring.com/finds/monoblocco-3525-rolex-chronograph/



https://k2luxury.ch/watches/brand/vacheron-constantin/historiques-american-1921-8203-5000r-b277/