Hairspring

Hairspring
Hairspring

Hairspring's founder Erik Gustafson and enthusiast Max Braun bring you a meandering weekly-ish roundtable on watches and many other things.

  1. -2 ДН.

    Episode 50: Ben Clymer

    Today marks the 50th episode of the Hairspring podcast, for which Erik & Max are extremely honored to be joined by Ben Clymer, founder of Hodinkee. In a very candid and wide-ranging chat, we cover the arc of Hodinkee so far, Ben as a collector today, and his dream unlimited-budget 3 watch collection—amongst much else. This includes thoughts on what’s wrong with influencers, views on condition, and just how handsome Rexhep actually is. This was both a privilege and a real joy to record. 50 episodes ago, we couldn’t have imagined how great a time we’d have both making this and hearing how you all interface with our meandering nonsense. Fifty more absurd debates and Only Wrists coming at you shortly, thank you for the ride and a special thanks to Ben here for taking the time. Enjoy.  Links Mentioned: Daytona: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytona ‘Blackout’ 14270 Read: https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=926666 2526: https://hairspring.com/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-gold/ 6240: https://hairspring.com/finds/small-floating-dial-6240-rolex-daytona/ 2915 Guide: https://speedmaster101.com/2915-2/ True Confessions of a Watch Geek: https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2017/03/20/confessions-of-a-watch-geek Simon Brette in Pink Gold: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-simon-brette-chronometre-aristans-rose Most Complicated VC: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/video-vacheron-constantin-berkley-grand-comp Hodinkee MB&F: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/mbf/lm101-for-hodinkee-steel/ Hodinkee VC CdV: https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/NY080118/72 3 Questions: Googling Recently: https://hairspring.com/finds/5004a-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar-split-seconds/ https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches/reference-1436-a-rare-pink-gold-split-seconds https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080524/25?fromSearch=3970 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/eric-claptons-patek-philippe-2499 https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/05/a-detailed-look-at-eric-claptons-one-of-a-kind-patek-philippe-ref-5004p.html Last to Wow: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-simon-brette-chronometre-aristans-rose https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-rexhep-rexhepi-cc2-ruby https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-greubel-forsey-signature-1-2 3 Watch Roll: Briggs Cunningham 565: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-incredible-watches-and-cars-of-briggs-cunningham 6264 Lemon: https://hairspring.com/finds/lemon-paul-newman-6264-rolex-daytona-2/ RRCC2: https://www.acollectedman.com/pages/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-two Pour le Mérite Tourbillon: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-1815/lange-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/ Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/patek-philippe/3940p-perpetual-calendar-second-series-platinum/ https://hairspring.com/finds/laurent-ferrier-classic-moon/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-ref-5270j-001-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-introducing

    1 ч. 23 мин.
  2. 1 ЯНВ.

    Episode 48: Time ‘Only’?

    Today’s independents aren’t battling over complication, they’re battling to perfect simplicity. Erik & Max asked you for your most expressive formats of Time Only watchmaking. Now, it’s time to relay some of the best three-handers the world has ever seen and why. This reaches far beyond the known models to Tortoise automatons, dad watches, 530s, Elegantes, and Klings.  Links Mentioned: Max’s Goldberger Correction: https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-35/lot-110 Greatest Number of Votes: https://www.phillips.com/detail/philippe-dufour/CH080221/115?fromSearch=simplicity https://hairspring.com/finds/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-rrcc1/ https://hairspring.com/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-gold/ Mid-Range Votes: FPJ Debate: CS: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/fp-journe/chronometre-souverain-pink-gold/ Vagabondage: https://hairspring.com/finds/fp-journe-vagabondage-ii-platinum/ https://hairspring.com/finds/fp-journe-vagabondage-iii-in-pink-gold/ Remaining Calatravas: 530: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-reference-530-most-important-2017 https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-530-black-dial/ 2508: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080224/131 565: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080122/280 570: https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080319/43 Tool Watches: https://hairspring.com/finds/king-sub-6200-rolex-submariner/ https://hairspring.com/finds/1-of-150-blancpain-barakuda-fifty-fathoms/ https://hairspring.com/finds/mark-3-dial-1016-rolex-explorer/ https://hairspring.com/finds/honeycomb-dial-6350-rolex-explorer-2/ https://perezcope.com/2017/03/17/the-history-of-panerai-watches-at-a-glance/ Cartier: https://hairspring.com/finds/cartier-cpcp-tank-a-guichets-in-rose-gold/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/cartier/prive-tank-normale-platinum/ https://hairspring.com/finds/salmon-dial-nso-cartier-crash/ https://hairspring.com/finds/78086-cartier-paris-tank-louis-grande-with-beads-of-rice-bracelet/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/cartier/tank-cintree-100th-anniversary-yellow-gold/ LF: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/laurent-ferrier/galet-traveller-red-gold/ Chopard 1.96: https://hairspring.com/finds/16-1860-2-chopard-luc-calibre-1-96-2/ Lange: 260.028 PLM: https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-richard-lange/richard-lange-pour-le-merite/ 239.050 Homage to FA: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/a-lange-sohne/239-050-1815-thin-homage-to-fa-lange-honey-gold/ 222.048 Side Step: https://www.europeanwatch.com/blog/a-lange-and-sohne-1815-side-step-222-048-wempe-review Single Replies: 5072: https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1950s-audemars-piguet-oversized-ref-5072-with-small-signature https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/interview-raul-pages https://www.haldimann.swiss/en/ Tortoise: https://pageswatches.com/automaton-tortoise/ Only Wrist: This has to be the guy: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/fp-journe/elegante-48-titanium/ https://www.phillips.com/article/106928748/interview-christian-klings-on-psychology-the-calming-effect-of-geneva-stripes-and-georges-80th https://quillandpad.com/2023/06/17/collecting-and-patronage-two-unique-watches-from-independent-watchmaker-christian-klings-reprise/

    1 ч. 9 мин.
  3. 23.12.2024

    Episode 47: Modern Watches, Excluding Independents, That We Love

    Erik & Max attempt to defy the tropes of the podcast, opting for something a bit out of character. This week they attempt to give some examples of non-independent modern watches which are quite compelling. There are picks under 10K, all the way up to crazy values. Plus, a bit of a quick auction chat. From an Egyptian President's Day-Date to a Zenith G381, it’s all in here.  Links Mentioned: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-2/reference-1803-day-date-a-yellow-gold-automatic https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/important-watches-5/day-date-reference-1803-a-white-gold-wristwatch https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6515279 Modern Watches: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-chopard-luc-xps-luc-qualite-fleurier Attainable Watches: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-omega-fois-speedmaster-2024 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-porsche-design-chronograph-1-in-titanium-carbide https://revolutionwatch.com/introducing-the-zenith-a3818-the-airweight-cover-girl-for-revolution-the-rake/ https://shop.hodinkee.com/blogs/journal/zenith-el-primero-revival-g381-yellow-gold Random Apartment in Zenith Debut: https://limited.hodinkee.com/zenith/ Mid-Market Watches: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-daytona https://hairspring.com/finds/126509-rolex-cosmograph-daytona/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/vacheron-constantin/7910v-everest-overseas-dual-time-titanium/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-grey-nato-episode-85-a-chat-with-adventurer-cory-richards https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-reverso-tribute-chronograph-in-pink-gold https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-monoface-in-steel-now-back-with-a-smaller-case-live-pics High End: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-chopard-luc-1860-flying-tourbillon-28-years-in-the-making https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-lange-datograph-handwerkskunst https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-lange-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumen https://hairspring.com/exclusives/a-lange-sohne/140-035-zeitwerk-lumen-phantom-platinum/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-golden-ellipse-is-back-on-bracelet https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/weve-seen-the-blue-ceramic-ap-royal-oak-irl-and-heres-what-we-think 5270 on Bracelet: https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5270-1R-001 5270 with ‘Chin’: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5270g-review 5970 Saatchi: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/the-international-connoisseur-jewels-and-watches/reference-5970g-019-a-white-gold-perpetual Only Wrist: An Atrocious Datejust: https://cagau.com/product/rolex-datejust-41-oystersteel-jubilee-custom-diamond-set-covert-dial-green-gemstone-bezel/ https://hairspring.com/finds/e853-jaeger-lecoultre-memovox/

    59 мин.
  4. 16.12.2024

    Episode 46: Building a 100K 3-Watch Collection That Must Go Up in Value, Plus New Year’s Watch Resolutions

    There is no way in which to avoid values when talking about serious watches; this week Erik & Max lean into that fact by building a collection around a bit of lighthearted speculation. Yes, that is faux pas behavior, but it is also a ton of fun. As a little bonus, they reflect on a year becoming more engrossed in watches to draw some resolutions for the coming year. Finally, an Only Wrist for Mr Gates.  Links Mentioned: MB&F Robo-man:  https://www.mbandf.com/people-spirit/collectibles/robotoys Ellipse Lighter: https://rareandfine.com/collectibles/ref-9507-blue-translucent-enamel-golden-ellipse-lighter/ Building a 100K 3-Watch Collection That Must Go Up in Value: Complication Discussion: https://hairspring.com/finds/5040g-patek-philippe-perpetual-calendar/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/a-lange-sohne/330-026-saxonia-annual-calendar-white-gold/ Chronograph Discussion: https://hairspring.com/finds/green-don-bezel-2998-3-omega-speedmaster/ https://speedmaster101.com/105-002-2/ https://hairspring.com/finds/2915-2-broad-arrow-omega-speedmaster/ https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/NY080118/72 Intro to the 5070: https://www.phillips.com/article/125814992/patek-philippe-chronograph-5070-guide https://hairspring.com/exclusives/vacheron-constantin/47101-salmon-guilloche-dial-les-historiques-chronograph-platinum/ (47101 caseback is snap, not screw, a small correction) Steel Sports Discussion: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/rolex/1603-vertically-brushed-dial-datejust-steel/ https://hairspring.com/finds/20368-1-universal-geneve-polerouter/ https://www.watchprosite.com/rolex/rolex-1665-sea-dweller-mk1-patent-pending-twins-/732.964148.6706998/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/vacheron-constantin/46003-222-steel-gold/ https://hairspring.com/finds/black-dial-1019-rolex-milgauss-2/ Only Wrist: (Edit I remembered incorrectly, it was 1 959 Bill crash tested not multiple vehicles)) https://hairspring.com/finds/porcelain-floating-cosmograph-16528-rolex-daytona/ https://hairspring.com/finds/1530-rolex-oyster-perpetual-date-4/

    1 ч. 3 мин.
  5. 10.12.2024

    Episode 45: Common Misconceptions

    Erik & Max embark on a myth-busting soirée which knows no bounds. Is Rolex a Charity? Why was the platinum Day-Date never fluted? Should hands always match? Was the helium escape valve invented when Rolex worked with Comex? Hint: it wasn't Was the Minute Repeater invented for a blind Patek Philippe client? Plus, if you're dating at 36, what should you wear? Links Mentioned: Anault Spying: https://fortune.com/europe/2024/11/28/billionaire-bernard-arnault-court-completely-unaware-ex-spy-chief-abused-powers-protect-lvmh/ https://www.lemonde.fr/en/france/article/2024/11/29/bernard-arnault-gives-witness-testimony-at-ex-spy-chief-trial-i-m-not-answering-these-stupid-questions_6734567_7.html Rolex Corporate Structure: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolex Tantalum is Expensive (featuring Platinum): https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0890695520306246 https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-pros-cons-cost-and-convoluted-history-of-platinum https://www.nytimes.com/2024/02/14/fashion/watches-dense-metal-tantalum.html https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-day-date-36mm-in-platinum-is-all-about-the-bezel Ceramic Horror Story: https://omegaforums.net/threads/can-someone-explain-omegas-ceramic-watch-cases.25204/page-2 The Cartier Crash was Invented After a Car Crash: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/how-the-cartier-crash-became-the-most-important-vintage-watch-of-2021 Minute Repeaters Patek Philippe History: https://collectability.com/learn/collectability-in-depth-patek-philippe-minute-repeaters/ Aquanaut Mismatch: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/collectors-guide-patek-philippe-aquanaut Helium Escape Valve Was Invented with Comex: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/this-cousteau-watch-may-be-the-most-important-of-all https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/rolex-omega-fight-over-comex https://perezcope.com/2020/02/25/the-doxa-hrv/ Finishing as Functional: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/does-great-movement-finishing-mean-a-great-watch Airport Security Scanners: https://www.the1916company.com/blog/can-your-watch-be-damaged-by-airport-security-scanners.html Red Gold vs Rose Gold: https://jackforster.substack.com/p/rose-gold-red-gold-pink-gold-whats LM2 Example: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/mbf/legacy-machine-lm2-titanium/ Quick Summation of the Tourbillon: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/what-does-a-tourbillon-actually-do Only Wrist: https://hairspring.com/exclusives/rolex/1675-gilt-exclamation-dial-gmt-master-steel/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-collectors-guide-to-vintage-1970s-cartier-watches https://hairspring.com/exclusives/audemars-piguet/25594st-royal-oak-day-date-moonphase-steel/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/audemars-piguet/25657or-quantieme-perpetuel-mother-of-pearl-dial-pink-gold/ https://hairspring.com/finds/italian-albino-3593-20-omega-speedmaster/ https://hairspring.com/finds/urban-jurgensen-reference-2/ (Detent, not double-impulse, misspoke) https://www.phillips.com/detail/derek-pratt-for-urban-jurgensen/CH080524/40

    1 ч. 10 мин.
  6. 02.12.2024

    Episode 44: The Balance Cocks of 2000-2024

    In this episode, Erik & Max bring back the awards ceremony that is the Balance Cocks in a follow-up to our Most Significant Independents of the Last 25 Years episode (34). This is the same format, just with a much wider scope. Over the last 25 years of watchmaking, we award 1. The Most Beautiful Watch 2. The Ugliest 3. The Greatest Calibre 4. The Greatest Depreciation 5. The Greatest Value Watch 6. The Brand Which Has Progressed the Furthest. Plus, if you’re a Naval Submarine Commander, how should you replace your Submariner?  Links Mentioned: Blackwater Breitling: https://www.watchesofespionage.com/blogs/woe-dispatch/blackwater-breitling-the-story?srsltid=AfmBOopL2ufLLmqb4FlZfpi3cdkfpDoobjjtP-W7bcsCMT2vnFyn8zA- Hodinkee Black Bay: https://hairspring.com/finds/hodinkee-friends-family-79030-tudor-black-bay-58/ The Dubious Asprey: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-2/reference-116518l-daytona-a-yellow-gold-automatic?locale=en The Balancecocks: Most Beautiful Watch of the Last 25 Years Nominations: https://hairspring.com/finds/gold-flux-dial-182-086-a-lange-sohne-little-lange-1/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breitling-designer-sylvain-berneron-sets-out-to-explore-asymmetry-on-his-own https://collectability.com/product/full-set-patek-philippe-limited-edition-saatchi-london-edition-ref-3970ep-046/ https://hairspring.com/finds/saatchi-salmon-dial-patek-philippe-3940g/ https://hairspring.com/finds/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-rrcc1/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-fp-journe-t-10-anniversary-tourbillon Ugliest Watch of the Last 25 Years Nominations: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/code-1159-audemars-piguet-introducing https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-black-panther-watch-live-pics-pricing https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-cubitus-collection Cubitus AI Generated Ad: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XisTUlhuEZ4 Greatest Calibre of the Last 25 Years Nominations: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/datograph-collectors-guide https://quillandpad.com/2021/12/05/why-i-bought-it-rexhep-rexhepi-akrivia-chronometre-contemporain/ https://hairspring.com/exclusives/fp-journe/elegante-titanium/ Greatest Depreciation of the Last 25 Years Nominations: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-nautilus-5711-tiffany-blue-phillips-new-york-2021 https://www.tagheuer.com/us/en/ https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkees-watch-of-the-year-and-the-winner-is https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/home.html Greatest Value Watch of the Last 25 Years Nominations: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-black-bay-fifty-eight-introducing https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-speedmaster-caliber-321-stainless-steel-ed-white-introducing Brand Which Has Progressed the Furthest in 25 Years Nominations: https://www.fpjourne.com/en https://www.alange-soehne.com/dispatch Only Wrist: https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/08/ferdinand-berthoud-chronometre-fb-2re-review.html https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-pioneer-cylindrical-tourbillon-2022 https://hairspring.com/finds/brown-guilloche-dial-voutilainen-observatoire/ https://www.watchprosite.com/zenith/zenith-chronometre-caliber-135-o--yes-the-kari-voutilainen-famous-one-/ https://www.watchprosite.com/zenith/zenith-chronometre-caliber-135-o--yes-the-kari-voutilainen-famous-one-/1123.1578721.15648191/ https://hairspring.com/finds/turler-dial-166-052-omega-constellation-chronometer/ https://hairspring.com/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-gold/

    1 ч. 11 мин.
  7. 25.11.2024

    Episode 43: State of the Collectors’ Market (Plus 100K for Integrated Complication)

    Erik & Max pause for a moment to contemplate the last year or two of the deep enthusiast watch market and where things are at this moment. This includes both a macro overview with broad trends and a finer, nuanced take on specific models. In the words of Niels Bohr, ‘It is difficult to make predictions, especially about the future.’ Nonetheless, there’s a bit of that as well. While they normally shy away from value discussions, this one is all of that at once. Finally, a collection building exercise. If you had 100K for a complicated integrated bracelet watch, is it better to go all in or separate that amount over two watches (one complicated, one integrated bracelet)? It’s a fun one, this.  Links Mentioned: Subdial Index: https://subdial.com/market 100K for an Integrated Bracelet Complication or Split the Amount Between Two Watches? Max: https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/a-collector-s-guide-to-the-nautilus-3800 https://hairspring.com/exclusives/iwc/9240-ingenieur-perpetual-calendar-jumbo-yellow-gold/ http://www.onthedash.com/chronograph/af-seafarer-ref-2447/ Erik: https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-222-is-the-greatest-thing-since-sliced-bread-which-isnt-all-that-great-but-y https://hairspring.com/finds/tropical-ed-white-105-003-65-omega-speedmaster/ https://hairspring.com/finds/25686ba-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-quantieme-perpetuel/ Only Wrist: Max: https://www.windvintage.com/ikepod-red-manatee-new-old-stock-full-set https://www.windvintage.com/breitling-unitime-reference-1-260 Erik: https://www.db1983.com/product-page/jeager-lecoultre-memovox-worldtime-1960s https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/theres-more-from-patek-philippe-and-its-complicated https://hairspring.com/finds/1415-patek-philippe-world-time/

    1 ч. 11 мин.
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Hairspring's founder Erik Gustafson and enthusiast Max Braun bring you a meandering weekly-ish roundtable on watches and many other things.

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