32.042645° -81.046146° Other coordinates are at the end of the notes. Hey, everyone! Okay… okay… A while back, I heard a story of a famous person doing something that I would never do. I doubt that any of you would either, but, hey, what do I know. Anyway… I ask myself this question… Why would a young man… an Why would a young man… an intelligent and educated young man… hike 700 miles, walk into a strange cemetery where he had never been and knew no one buried there… then unknowingly lie down on an important grave and go to sleep? educated and young man… hike 700 miles, walk into a strange cemetery where he had never been and knew no one buried there… then unknowingly lie down on an important grave and go to sleep? You may know the guy. It was John Muir, who was a naturalist and a conservationist and is remembered as one of the fathers of the US National Park system. Today there are mountains, forests, parks, and two John Muir Trails, one in California in the Sierra Nevada and one in Tennessee in the Cumberland Mountains. So, why did he come to the cemetery/ and which grave did he sleep on? Stick around, we’ll look at the clues, and I’ll tell you my take on it. I’m JD Byous… Welcome to History by GPS, where you travel through history and culture, GPS location by GPS location. You can find transcripts of the show and all of the coordinates of where these events happened at our website, HistoryByGPS.com. Okay, get your pencil and paper and I’ll give you the first location and you can follow us on your favorite map app. Okay, this one is in the back end of Bonaventure Cemetery in Savannah, Georgia It’s at the coordinates … 32.042645° -81.046146°. Now, this location marks the grave where I suspect Muir slept. And it is an important grave. But first, a little background on the grave-sleeping guy. John Muir was born in Dunbar, Scotland, in 1838 and his family emigrated to the United States where he grew up in Wisconsin. He was hard-working and inventive. Loved botany and geology and traveled and studied his scientific passions around Wisconsin, and the states around it, and up into Meaford, Ontario, Canada. When he was in his twenties, he left the farm and attended college, and became an excellent woodworker, ending up in a carriage factory in Indiana. A freak accident left him blind for a short time, and when he regained his sight decided that working in a factory wasn’t for him… he wanted to see the world. When he through to Savannah, Georgia, he was on his famous 1000-mile walk to the gulf, which started in Louisville, Kentucky, and ended in Cedar Key, Florida. From there, he ended up in Yosemite Valley, where he changed history. As for his stay in Bonaventure… he was there for about five nights. That was in October, 1867. So, what are the differences in Bonaventure today you ask? Well… I’m glad you did. The birds still chirp and gather seeds. The squirrels still scamper through the oaks, and today, Spanish moss waves in the wind just as it did when Muir visited. I guess you could say that life among the dead at Bonaventure Cemetery is just… life… a lot like Muir described it back then. He wrote quite a bit about the plants and animals he found. But, today, there are more graves… there are a lot more graves. So, why Bonaventure? It was several miles outside of the main city back then. Muir wrote that on October 8, 1867, he was waiting for a package… a parcel of cash that was supposed to be mailed by his brother. But IT had not reached Savannah. So… low on money… he searched for a place to spend the night. The first night he said he went to the meanest looking lodging house that he could find, as he said, “on account of its cheapness.” It was probably on Bay Street at that time because it was a rough waterfront range filled with cheap bars and lodging houses. [Bay Street and the Customs House, After a night’s sleep in a cot, he only had enough money to buy a few days’ worth of food. Again, he went to the post office – which by the way, for you who have visited Savannah – was in the basement of the old Customs House on Bay Street. Well, the package still had not arrived. So he wandered around the streets, sightseeing, and studying plants in the gardens of the large homes, of which Savannah had many. There still are. Then after a while, he found the road to Bonaventure, which was at that time called the old Thunderbolt Road. Today, the route is divided into three sections – Wheaton Street, Skidaway Road, and Bonaventure Road. He said… that on the route to the cemetery, he wandered along Savannah’s sandy eastern bluff, looking for a safe place to rest under the stars. I’ve looked for the dunes as he described and it is hard to tell that they ever existed… They’re buried under warehouses, parking lots and apartment buildings. He wrote that he was very thirsty after walking so long in the muggy heat… a dull, sluggish, coffee-colored stream flows under the road just outside the graveyard… from which he managed to get a drink after breaking a way down to the water through a dense fringe of bushes. He emphasized that he was wary of the snakes and alligators in the dark. Later, when he was in Florida, he mentions his fear of reptiles. After getting a drink, he said that he “…enter the weird and beautiful abode of the dead.” Today that creek is the Placentia Canal that drains storm waters from the town of Thunderbolt and the campus of Savannah State University. So I suppose his exhaustion, hunger, and fatigue led him to his star and oak-limbed canopy bed. You have to take into account that this guy was a brilliant botanist… BUT… on his route through Georgia, this guy was clipping off 40 miles a day on some of the sections of his trip. Now, how did he know about Bonaventure? Well, It’s famous now, but it was famous back then, too. Today most writers and visitors make the assumption that the cemetery’s popularity is due to The Midnight Book, John Berendt’s 1994 story, Midnight in the Garden of Good or Evil. In reality, Bonaventure was popular more than a century before the Midnight book came on the scene. So… Muir had probably heard about the famous cemetery long before he walked into town. He’d likely read about it in travel books or possibly saw pictures on postcards of that time. At one time in history, the graveyard was a weekend destination spot for Victorian family picnics. However, it reverted to a weedy, brushy patch of woods during the American Civil War. So, it may have been a little rough and brushy when Muir visited. The cemetery’s popularity in Victorian times can be observed out front, near the entrance, where a short section of trolley tracks can still be found. They are memorials to times when their steel rails experienced heavy traffic from city families carrying picnic baskets and checked-tablecloth ground covers. When YOU visit Bonaventure, you’ll like the monuments and sculptures in stone and bronze. Two of my favorite bronze examples are the bust of General Robert H. Anderson and the flowers on the Garland Rayls monument. I talk about the Anderson family in my book, History’s Way: Along Savannah’s Riverfront should you want to learn more. You can find that and our other books on Amazon. Just type in JD Byous and they should magically appear. I’ll put a link in the transcript. Also, please click the “FOLLOW” button so you will be notified about other episodes of History By GPS… that or just go to the website. Now, before we investigate Muir’s visit, we need to look into the cemetery’s background…. That ties into which grave he likely slept on. The cemetery is located on the site of the Bonaventure Plantation, which was originally founded in 1762 by British import, Colonel John Mullryne. Later, in 1846, Commodore Josiah Tattnall III, Mullryne’s grandson, sold the 600-acre plantation to become a cemetery. The sale did not include the Tattnall family burial area, but the buyer, Peter Wiltberger, agreed to maintain it. The first burials took place in 1850 though it was not officially opened. Wiltberger himself was entombed in a family vault three years later. Fortunately for him.. he was already dead… having died in 1853. Developing the grounds were put on hold until after the American Civil war. So, his son, Major William H. Wiltberger, formed the Evergreen Cemetery Company in 1868 and Savannah’s finest families started laying their family members to rest there… assumably they had all too were already dead. I mean… why would you bury them if they weren’t? Then… on July 7, 1907, the City of Savannah purchased the Evergreen Cemetery Company, making the cemetery public and changing the name back to Bonaventure Cemetery. So… as for John Muir’s first night there… after he entered the gate he walked through Bonaventure’s oak grove for about one-quarter of a mile until he reached the ruins of the Tattnall plantation house. The area would have looked a bit different than today. Now there are fewer oaks. From what I’ve seen in pictures, I would estimate that at least 50% have died with some having been blown down during storms and hurricanes since that time. Many, however, are still here. One old oak is near the entrance. I’ll put the coordinates in the show notes on the website. It was a seedling in 1754 when Mullryne started the plantation and is now around 260 years old. Muir would have walked past and under its branches on his way along the oak-arched lane, as he walked to his sleeping spot each night. From along the lane, he would have seen an occasional glint of moonlight bouncing from the headstones in the small burial ground. He said the sparkleberry thickets shined like “heaps of crystals.” But today you can’t see what he saw because the cemetery closes a 5 in the afternoon. The