The Earful Tower: Paris

Oliver Gee

The Earful Tower is a weekly podcast all about Paris, hosted by Australian expat Oliver Gee. With a huge variety of guests - from cooks and comedians to TV hosts and tour guides - this show will transport you to the City of Lights and make you feel like you've met the characters that make it shine.

  1. 2d ago

    The day I had Paris's best museum to myself (and risked missing my son's birth)

    C is for Carnavalet. Or should that be Kernevenoy?? In this episode, we dive into one of Paris's most overlooked treasures - the Carnavalet Museum, the only museum in the world dedicated entirely to the history of Paris. I share, for the first time, the story of visiting the newly renovated museum before it opened to the public - completely alone - while waiting for the birth of my first son. Plus: the strange story behind the museum's bizarre name, and the remarkable woman history forgot. The Carnavalet Museum: 23 rue de Sévigné (also entered from 16 rue des Francs-Bourgeois), 75003 Open Tuesday to Sunday, 10am–6pm. Closed Mondays. Permanent collection is free. Metro: Saint-Paul (line 1) Official website: carnavalet.paris.fr Mentioned in this episode: The €56 million renovation that closed the museum for four and a half years before reopening in May 2021 Françoise de La Baume — the twice-widowed aristocrat who actually owned the building and whose husband's unpronounceable Breton name gave the museum its peculiar title Marcel Proust's cork-lined bedroom, Napoleon's death mask, and a 6,000-year-old canoe pulled from the Seine The music is from Pres Maxson.  This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life. The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.  Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.  For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website  Weekly newsletter  Walking Tours

    24 min
  2. May 24

    The 18th arrondissement of Paris (with a local)

    Welcome back to "The 20 Kingdoms", a new season of The Earful Tower podcast. As you probably know, there are 20 districts in Paris, known as arrondissements. They may as well be kingdoms, at least for this podcast season, where I'll visit each kingdom and introduce you to someone who truly loves it. In this episode, it's Sutanya Dacres, podcaster and author of Dinner For One. She has called the 18th home since 2013 and truly loves it. I met her at the Pirates de Montmartre seafood restaurant over an oyster or two. Here's what she had to say. Mentioned in this episode: Les Pirates De Montmartre (seafood restaurant) Address: 63 Rue Duhesme, 75018 Paris Au Rêve (cafe), Address: 89 Rue Caulaincourt, 75018 Paris **************** This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life. The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.  Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.  For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website  Weekly newsletter  Walking Tours Music: Pres Maxson

    28 min
  3. May 22

    The Lost River of Paris: Searching for the Bièvre

    This podcast episode features host Oliver Gee and his co-host Lina exploring the history and physical traces of the Bièvre, a lost river in Paris. Once a vital waterway that flowed into the Seine, the river was entirely buried and built over by 1912 due to industrial pollution. In this updated re-release, we lead a "scavenger hunt" with a group of enthusiasts to find medallions, plaques, and architectural clues that reveal the river's hidden path through the 13th and 5th arrondissements. A highlight of the journey includes visiting a perfectly preserved medieval arch located deep beneath a modern post office. Oliver also ventures outside city limits with a colorful character named the "Comte de Saint-Germain" to wade through a restored section of the water. Finally, the discussion touches on future urban projects that aim to uncover parts of the Bièvre to help the city combat climate change. The music is from Pres Maxson.  This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life. The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.  Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.  For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website  Weekly newsletter  Walking Tours

    34 min
  4. May 18

    Brocantes, flea markets, and the art of antiquing in France

    B is for Brocantes! This podcast episode features an interview with Sharon Santoni, a long-time expert on French lifestyle and author of the book "The Art of Antiquing in France." She discusses the nuances of the "brocante", which she defines as accessible antiques that possess a unique history and patina. The conversation explores the cultural importance of repurposing vintage items and provides practical advice for navigating famous markets like the Puces de Saint-Ouen in Paris and fairs in Provence. Sharon shares her personal journey from starting a blog in 2010 to building a community centered on French country aesthetics. Additionally, she shares tips for international travelers on how to identify quality pieces, negotiate prices, and transport treasures home. Key Links and Websites Sharon Santoni's Official Website: www.myfrenchcountryhome.com  This is the primary hub for her blog (started in 2010), her My French Country Home magazine, and her boutique. The Book: "The Art of Antiquing in France" – Published by Flammarion, this book serves as both a reference and a coffee table book and is fully illustrated with photographs by Sharon Santoni, Franck Schmitt, and Joanna Maclennan. Books are available worldwide from your favorite local bookseller and signed editions can be purchased directly via her website on this link.  Antique Fair Locator: Sharon mentions the website, www.brocabrac.fr, which is a helpful resource for finding fairs happening across France on any given weekend Places Mentioned The episode covers several iconic and local spots for antiquing and living in France: In Paris: Les Puces de Saint-Ouen: Located on the northern perimeter of Paris, Sharon describes it as a unique place in the world with over 500 vendors and specialized knowledge in everything from paintings to textiles Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves: A weekend morning market Sharon and Oliver both enjoy for its "authentic vibe." It is known for its urgency, as dealers unpack from cars at 8:00 AM and pack up by 12:30 PM Foire de Châtou: A large, prestigious 10-day antique fair held just outside of Paris In Provence and Southern France: L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: This town is famous for its antique dealers and weekend markets.  Villeneuve-lès-Avignon: A "wonderful" fair mentioned by Sharon Carpentras: Another "fantastic" fair located in the south In Normandy and Northern France: The Eure Valley (Val de l'Eure): Sharon lives in the Normandy countryside, roughly halfway between Paris and Deauville, near the famous village of Giverny Amiens: A northern city (noted as the home of Emmanuel Macron) that hosts a spectacular fair where selling starts as early as midnight Lille: Known for its massive fair, though Sharon notes it is so large it can be "scary" because it includes items beyond just antiques Notable Details for Antiquing Brocante vs. Antiques: Sharon defines brocante as "relaxed antiques", a mix of items with patina and repurposed pieces, whereas the "antique world" typically involves highly polished furniture and higher price points The "Hand Rule": Sharon advises that if you are interested in an item, keep your hand on it; if you take your hand off and step away, someone else can jump in Suitcase Treasures: For travelers, she suggests looking for paintings, vintage postcards, or palettes that can easily fit into a suitcase One tip she shares from her travelers is to "ship home their dirty laundry" to make room for their antique treasures in their luggage. __________________________________________________________ A reminder: For this new season, we're doing a new take on the A to Z of Paris. This time, B stands for Brocantes, following from A which stood for Arc de Triomphe.  This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life. The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.  Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.  For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website  Weekly newsletter  Walking Tours

    31 min
  5. May 16

    Paris district guide: What we found in the 19th arrondissement

    New episode: Let's take a deeper dive into the 19th arrondissement of Paris. You've hopefully already heard the previous episode, where Ben McPartland shared his thoughts on the 19th Kingdom.  In this brand new episode, we visited some of the places he recommended, plus more. And we report back to you! (Scroll down for the spelling/websites of each place mentioned).  This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life. The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.  Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.  For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website  Weekly newsletter  Walking Tours Food and Drink L'Atalante A spacious bar on the canal known for IPAs and dishes like roasted cauliflower with peanut butter sauce. 26 Quai de la Marne, 75019 Paris www.latalante.fr Combat A lively cocktail bar near the border of the 19th and 20th arrondissements, recommended for high-quality cocktails. 63 Rue de Belleville, 75019 Paris www.combat.paris Lao Siam A long-running Southeast Asian restaurant recognized by the Michelin Guide, known for dishes like "Crying Tiger" beef. 49 Rue de Belleville, 75019 Paris www.laosiam.fr Cheval d'Or A highly praised restaurant with an understated exterior. 21 Rue de la Villette, 75019 Paris www.chevaldorparis.com Paname Brewing Company A brewery on the canal serving craft beer and food. 41 Quai de la Loire, 75019 Paris www.panamebrewingcompany.com Le Passage à Niveau A restaurant on the Petite Ceinture with its own herb garden and mushroom cultivation. 2 bis Rue de l'Ourcq, 75019 Paris https://www.instagram.com/lepassageaniveau/ Coffee Shops & Bakeries Mardi A café known for excellent coffee and Swedish-style cinnamon buns. 29 Rue de la Villette, 75019 Paris www.instagram.com/mardi_cafe_paris Buna Bet A specialty coffee shop and roastery known for single-origin coffee, pastries, and a warm neighborhood atmosphere. 102 Rue de Meaux, 75019 Paris www.bunabet.fr Parks & Culture Parc des Buttes-Chaumont A dramatic park built on an old quarry with steep hills, a lake, and a hilltop temple. 1–7 Rue Botzaris, 75019 Paris Parc de la Villette A large contemporary park with playgrounds, museums, and entertainment venues. 211 Av. Jean Jaurès, 75019 Paris www.lavillette.com Philharmonie de Paris A major concert hall located inside Parc de la Villette. 221 Av. Jean Jaurès, 75019 Paris www.philharmoniedeparis.fr L'Eau et les Rêves A botanical bookshop on a moored boat along the canal. 9 Quai de l'Oise, 75019 Paris https://www.penichelibrairie.com/ Belleville Market A busy outdoor food market near Rue de Belleville. Boulevard de Belleville, 75019 Paris Nordic Bookshop (La Librairie Nordique) A specialized bookstore focused on Nordic and northern literature. 5 Rue de la Villette, 75019 Paris www.lalibrairienordique.fr

    20 min
  6. May 11

    The 19th arrondissement of Paris (with a local)

    Welcome back to "The 20 Kingdoms", a new season of The Earful Tower podcast. As you probably know, there are 20 districts in Paris, known as arrondissements. They may as well be kingdoms, at least for this podcast season, where I'll visit each kingdom and introduce you to someone who truly loves it. That's the whole concept. This isn't me recommending cafes or restaurants in different parts of town. This is true locals telling us about the soul of their kingdom and what they like to do there. The goal is to give you a very real look at each of these districts from a local's perspective.  And for the 19th Kingdom, the second episode of the season, you'll meet Ben McPartland, the presenter and producer of the Talking France podcast, which is made by The Local France news website here in Paris.  He loves this "genuine neighbourhood" of an arrondissement, and I met him at the edge of the Bassin de la Villette for a pint of beer, which he also loves. Here's what he had to say. Mentioned in this episode: Drinks, Food & Canal Hangouts Paname Brewing Company A floating brewery on the Bassin de la Villette with an easygoing, almost London-style pub atmosphere. Great beers, lively crowds, and one of the best sunset views over the canal. 41 Quai de la Loire, 75019 panamebrewingcompany.com L'Atalante Just up the Canal de l'Ourcq from Paname Brewing, this spot is known for its strong craft beer selection and excellent IPAs. 26 Quai de la Marne, 75019 latalante-paris.com La Rotonde Historic circular building at Stalingrad with restaurants, terraces, and drinks right on the edge of the canal basin. Ideal meeting point before exploring the neighborhood. 6–8 Place de la Bataille de Stalingrad, 75019 Bars Inside Buttes-Chaumont In summer, the park fills with tiny outdoor bars and terraces tucked among the hills and pathways — perfect for an afternoon drink after wandering the park. Music, Film & Culture Philharmonie de Paris One of Paris's great modern concert halls, famous for its dramatic silver architecture and panoramic rooftop terrace overlooking the city. 221 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019 philharmoniedeparis.fr Le Zénith Large live music venue inside Parc de la Villette hosting major touring artists and rock concerts. 211 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019 le-zenith.com MK2 Cinemas Twin cinemas facing each other across the canal. A favorite local spot for late-night screenings and films in original English versions. 7 Quai de la Loire & 14 Quai de la Seine, 75019 mk2.com Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie Massive science and industry museum loved by Parisian families, with exhibitions, immersive installations, and huge open spaces. 30 Avenue Corentin Cariou, 75019 cite-sciences.fr On the Water Akwa electric boats Rent small electric boats and cruise the Canal de l'Ourcq yourself — especially beautiful from spring through early autumn. 37 Quai de la Seine, 75019 https://akwa-experience.com/en/ Kayaks & Rowboats Locals can often access free kayaking and rowing sessions around the Bassin de la Villette on weekends during warmer months. Summer Canal Swimming Every summer, sections of the Bassin de la Villette transform into open-air swimming areas, with races, floating pools, and seasonal events. Parks & Walks Parc des Buttes-Chaumont Wild, cinematic, and hilly — often called the most beautiful park in Paris. Expect cliffs, bridges, waterfalls, a lake, and incredible Sacré-Cœur views. Parc de la Villette Huge contemporary park blending architecture, green space, music venues, museums, and canal life into one sprawling cultural district. **************** This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life. The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.  Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.  For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website  Weekly newsletter  Walking Tours Music: Pres Maxson

    28 min
  7. May 8

    Following the Rose Line through the Louvre to the Paris observatory

    Let's take a deep dive into the Paris Rose Line. This is an updated re-release of the time I did another A to Z season, where A was for Arago, the name of the scientist who helped map out the Paris meridian line (François Arago (1786-1853)).  In this episode, I explored the "Rose Line" (as it was called in the Da Vinci Code), sought out the bronze medallions along the streets of Paris, through the Louvre, and into the Paris Observatory.  Featured is the voice of Nicolas Lesté-Lasserre, a science historian and the community manager of the Observatoire de Paris. He showed me around this incredible 17th century institution, which is usually closed to the public.  Find more, including beautiful pictures of the observatory, on The Earful Tower's website.  The episode in this music is from Pres Maxson, featuring an original song called Le Meridien de Paris.  This episode brought to you by The Earful Tower Tours. Come join us in the Marais, Montmartre, or the Latin Quarter. Our Walking Tours are exceptionally highly rated online and are the best way to experience this podcast in real life. The Earful Tower exists thanks to support from its members. For just $10 a month you can unlock almost endless extras including bonus podcast episodes, live video replays, special event invites, and our annually updated PDF guide to Paris.  Membership takes only a minute to set up on Patreon, or Substack. Thank you for keeping this channel independent.  For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links: Website  Weekly newsletter  Walking Tours

    36 min

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About

The Earful Tower is a weekly podcast all about Paris, hosted by Australian expat Oliver Gee. With a huge variety of guests - from cooks and comedians to TV hosts and tour guides - this show will transport you to the City of Lights and make you feel like you've met the characters that make it shine.

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