Dog groomers are an integral part in maintaining optimal health for your dog. They are not just limited to bathing and trimming a dog’s coat. They are also checking for ear infections, trimming nails, and noticing lumps and any other superficial health issues. It is important to find a groomer who will point out possible concerns they may have about the appearance and behavior of your dog. They may suggest a follow up visit with your veterinarian. Finding a groomer you can trust and keeping the recommended frequency of grooming appointments are two key ways to help your dog get acclimated to the salon and the entire experience, which can be somewhat stressful. The more often your dog goes to the groomer, the more they will become familiar with them and the surroundings. Communication between the groomer and pet parent must be open and honest. All pet parents want to know how their dog behaved at the salon and if there are any concerns they need to know about. Sharyn Ugan is a retired dog and cat groomer from Petco. She still grooms dogs for friends and family on her own. In this episode,Sharyn shares with me all of the tools she uses. When she worked at the Petco grooming salon, the company provided a lot of the equipment. However, if she needed or preferred certain tools, she would purchase them herself. Typically, a lot of the equipment is purchased by the groomer. Sharyn likes to have backups for every tool. In the pictures below, you will discover which scissors, clippers, and products she prefers. Over the years, she has built up an extensive array of grooming tools for her “toolbox”. Brushes Sharyn predominantly uses three different types of brushes. Depending on the job, there are metal slicker brushes, a rake, a fine toothed flea comb, and a FURminator. Brushes are integral in maintaining a healthy coat by preventing and detangling mats. They also help distribute natural oils throughout the body to prevent hair follicles from clogging. Daily brushing keeps matting in check. It also removes loose fur and dirt which helps reduce shedding. * Slicker brushes Sharyn likes to use metal slicker brushes with a blue plastic handle. The teeth are made of metal and come in different lengths and textures. The wider brush with shorter teeth are used on shih tzus and smaller dogs. The brush with longer bristles are used more on longer coats like poodles, doodles and German Shepherds. The slicker brush pictured below has an ‘S’ on the back which means that the bristles are soft. They come in soft, medium and hard. Sharyn uses this type of brush on 95% of the dogs she grooms because they are very durable and get the job done. * The Rake The Rake is a type of brush to manage matting. They are recommended particularly on dogs with an undercoat. I use a rake on my dog, Ebi, every day. She has feathers, long, wispy fur, by her rear end and behind her legs. I use a slicker brush for her body. One month, I tried using a slicker brush on her whole body and thought I was doing a good job. However, when it was time for Ebi’s grooming appointment with Sharyn, she found the most mats ever. The slicker brush didn’t cut through the feathers. Sharyn calls feathers, pantaloons. Rakes can be found in the detangling brush section on the internet. Many companies make them. Just make sure you get a sturdy handle and appropriate size for your dog. * Flea comb Sharyn uses a flea comb that also has a small comb on the other side. She likes to use this on small dog’s faces, ears, and paws. Sometimes little knots form on the fur on and around the ears. Breeds like Westies and terriers have beards that need to be brushed out. The small comb is perfect for that purpose. I have seen her use it on my dog’s fur that grows in between her toes. She may even find fleas since these are the areas where fleas tend to reside. FURminator FURminators were invented in the early 2000s as a deshedding tool. The purpose was to develop a safe and efficient way to remove loose undercoat fur without damaging the top coat. However, Sharyn says that you have to be careful because of this. They can take a bulk of the fur out, but you can possibly strip away too much of the topcoat. She liked to use them when they first came out, but now she doesn’t care for them. Shampoo Shampooing a dog is the first step in the grooming process. There are many different shampoos to choose from. Sharyn likes Johnson&Johnson Baby Shampoo. It is tearless and mild. There are other shampoos available for different skin issues. For example, there is a shampoo with oatmeal in it that soothes irritated skin. No matter what shampoo she uses, she always dilutes it. She finds that rinsing the shampoo out is a lot easier. A little bit of shampoo produces a lot of suds to really scrub into the fur. An added benefit is if the dog should have allergies to the shampoo, it will be less concentrated, producing a milder reaction to it. I personally prefer all natural products for my dog. I showcase a shampoo made by a company called Doggy Style. It is a shampoo and conditioner in one and only requires a little bit. I love the way it smells and how my dog’s fur feels when it’s all dried. For more information, check out: Doggy Style Dog Care. This is a local Cleveland company that sells varied products for grooming your dog. I love the bath scrubber for short haired dogs too! Nail trims Even if you don’t take your dog to a groomer, you still need to trim the nails or get someone to do it for you. The anatomy of a dog’s foot is similar from breed to breed, but the shape and length of the nails can be different. For example, I used to walk my Corgi so much that the concrete would naturally file down his nails. In fact, sometimes the nails would be worn down so low to the quick, they would start bleeding (Please see below the definition of the quick) I walk my Leonberger just as much, but her nails stick straight out and don’t touch the sidewalk unless they start getting too long. When I can hear clicking on the pavement, that’s when I know it’s time for a nail trim. If dog’s nails get too long, the dog will compensate by walking differently. This will put undue strain on the joints. The nails can also get caught on rugs and become injured, causing even more pain and a visit to the vet. Overgrown nails can be painful if walking on pavement. It alters their natural gait and will cause the dog to shift their weight to avoid the pain. When nails are left long on a consistent basis, the quick will grow out with the nail, which makes it difficult to trim them without bleeding. If neglected for a long period of time, the nails can curl under and grow into the paw pad. Ouch! The quick The quick is located on the inner part of a dog’s nail. It will appear as a small pink dot on the inside of a dog’s nail or as a small dark circle on the nail’s tip on the inside of a black nail. It contains blood vessels, so if it is nicked with clippers, it will start to bleed. Before beginning to trim your own dog’s nails, make sure you have some styptic powder to dunk the nail in. The bleeding should stop immediately. * Small Nail Clippers These clippers are shown on the far right of the picture below. Small nail clippers are great for cat nails and small animals like ferrets and guinea pigs. They are used for very small dogs like Bugsy, who is laying on his bed in the video of this podcast. Although, Bugsy likes his nails done with a Dremel. 5. The Dremel Some animals prefer the Dremel over clipping, as mentioned above. Some dogs are afraid of the sound of it as it grinds away the nail. There are some models that are quieter than others. In general, the Dremel is safer since it reduces the chance of nicking the quick. It leaves a smoother finish and is great for thick nails. I have seen Sharyn cut Ebi’s nails with a clipper and then Dremel them to smooth out rough edges. Big Nail Clippers * Large Nail Clippers For larger dogs like Ebi, Sharyn uses a larger, sturdier clipper. Ebi’s nails are thick and more suitable for a Dremel. However, Ebi never has liked the sound of it. The sound and the feel of the Dremel can be off-putting for a dog. On breeds whose nails are long and curved under, clipping away bit by bit is the only way to get the job done. If using a Dremel on these types of nails, the Dremel will come too close to the toe pad, causing possible injuries. The guillotine Sharyn knows how to use the guillotine for nails but does not like them. She finds that they crush and splinter the nail too much. The nail can get stuck upon releasing the grip. Dew claws Some dog breeds have dew claws which need to be trimmed by a clipper. These are long curved nails located on the side of each front paw, by the ankle. Since they are located so close to the leg, it is awkward to Dremel on the side of the nail closest to the leg. Therefore, it is easier to clip them. Sometimes dew claws are removed at birth so that they don’t present problems down the road. They can get caught on things and ripped off. Some breeds have front and back dew claws. Leonbergers, Great Pyrenees and some Sheepdogs have both. Typically, the dogs that were bred to climb mountains to protect their livestock, will have both front and back dew claws. They help grip the rough terrain as they climb. I have seen Ebi’s back dew claws do this. Scissors Sharyn uses three types of scissors for trimming fur. It is difficult to distinguish the size of the scissors and if the blades are straight or curved in the picture below. Just as a hair stylist has their favorite sheers, so do groomers. * Thinning shears Sharyn uses thinning shears to thin out bulky sections of a dog’s coat. These shears are pictured below on the far left. She will also use them on poofy ears first and
