Paris in Bleu Blonde Rouge

Claudine Hemingway

The wonderful art and history of Paris and France 

  1. Sep 29

    The Meridian & Gnomon of the Eglise Saint Sulpice

    On the first day of each season at true noon, inside the Église Saint-Sulpice, the sun hits a small hole in the window high above the south transept, and on the spring and autumn equinox, it hits a brass marker just inside the altar.  But why, you ask? It goes back almost three hundred years, to 1727, when the parish priest Jean Baptiste Languet de Gergy wanted to ensure the exactitude of the ecclesiastical calendar, particularly Easter and the moment the bells should ring.  Clockmaker Henry Sully was tasked with the project, but passed away before it was finished, and it was picked up years later by Pierre Charles Le Monnier.  If you look up at the south transept window on the right-hand edge, you will notice a vertical rectangular plate. Inside is a small hole with a glass aperture and an 80-foot focus lens through which, at the exact moment when the skies are clear, the sun flows and hits a designated spot within the church. On the winter solstice, the bullseye is on the marble gnomon on the wall of the north transept, and on the summer solstice, on the brass plate below the window.  For years and one spring, summer, and autumn after another, I have tried to see this magic moment. There have been cloudy, rainy days and funerals in front of the altar, but this past spring and again on September 23, on this first day of autumn, the sky was clear, as was the altar, and with fellow nerdy folks I stood on the steps looking down at the brass marker, and at 1:41 pm the sun began to crawl across the marble to its bullseye.  In this week's newest episode, I share all the details on the meridian, history, and the man who brought it all to life.  For more, check out ClaudineHemingway.com  check out a walk through Saint Sulpice https://youtu.be/GWPrXAceTFM Support the show

    The Meridian & Gnomon of the Eglise Saint Sulpice
  2. Sep 1

    Saving the Louvre

    In 1939, as Hitler came knocking on the door of France, the keepers of the great art of Paris sprang into action. While Hitler’s art-loving henchmen headed to Paris with a shopping list of must-have pieces of art, the treasures of the Musée du Louvre were at the top. Jacques Jaujard, the director of France’s National Museum, and René Huyghe, curator of paintings, devised a plan to save the art of the Louvre. On August 25, the Louvre was closed for cleaning for three days. However, what really happened behind the historic walls of the Louvre would alter the dictator's plans. On those three days, the staff of the Louvre, students, and employees from the Samaritaine worked around the clock, removing paintings from their frames, rolling and packing. Beginning on the 28th and the days that followed, more than twelve hundred crates left the Louvre headed to the Loire Valley. One special crate would travel on its own. The most famous painting of the Louvre, the Mona Lisa, would be packed separately in a box lined with English paper and wrapped in red silk. Marked with only the initials MN noted on the outside, she was strapped to a stretcher of an ambulance and hermetically sealed.  When she arrived in Chambord, National Museum officer  Pierre Schommer passed out due to a lack of air but was thankfully revived. She moved on to the Château de Louvigny along with curator Andre Chamsen and kept moving every few months. Always trying to outrun the German forces as they came closer and closer. Following the German surrender on May 8, 1945, the artwork began their return to the Louvre. On June 16, 1945, the Mona Lisa was hanging back on the walls of the Musée du Louvre, and on October 6, 1947, the museum was reopened to the public. Without the quick thinking and work of Jacques Jauhard and René Huyghe and the countless people who gave their time, most of the Louvre would have been lost. Listen to the whole story and the other times the art left the Louvre in this week’s Paris in Bleu Blonde Rouge podcast, out now.  Support the show

    Saving the Louvre
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The wonderful art and history of Paris and France 

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