Vamos a Jeju!

The Vamos a Jeju Podcast!
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Vamos a Jeju is your hub to help DIY travelers discover the rich culture, serene peace, and natural beauty of Korea's Jeju Island. It's all the magnificent vistas that Hawaii has to offer, but set in an entirely different and exciting culture, all at a fraction of the price. Come join us and unlock: the intrepid sea women who dive for seafood sans breathing aids;the ancient stories still spun by the island's shamanistic practices;the majestic landscape of fire and stone carved by magma;the breathtaking majesty of the island's hidden places. Welcome to our island home!

  1. 2d ago

    Ep 39: Writer, Podcaster, Seer — Holly Hughes's Inner Discoveries on Jeju | Guest Series

    Holly Hughes is a podcast host, author, and self-described clairvoyant whose Korea obsession started during COVID when Netflix suggested 100 Days My Prince. She's been talking about Korea for six years, her husband is banned from joining her trips, and by chance found herself on a tour hosted by Sora. Holly traveled Jeju with Sora in the rain, couldn't see anything at Sangumburi crater, and says the fog made her pay attention to what was close: moss-covered trees, the energy of the land, stories blooming in her head. Key TakeawaysKorea origin story: COVID isolation + Netflix algorithm = 100 Days My Prince. Holly became obsessed with hanbok colors, gat hats, bead meanings, and Korean history she never learned in American schools. "I feel like I come home. It's the strangest thing."Jeju origin story: Met five solo-traveling women on her first Korea trip. Their top priority was Jeju. Plus Korean dating shows film there. Plus Rain's motorcycle ride through canola fields.Creative inspiration: Bought four journals, filled them all. "It feels very spiritual to me sometimes when I'm there... it just blooms stories in my head." She's clairvoyant and sees things in the forests, then looks them up and finds they match local spirits.Rainy Jeju: Couldn't see the crater at Sangumburi, couldn't see Biyangdo from Hyeopjae Beach. But the fog forced attention to what was close: moss-covered trees, the path itself. "When you couldn't see further, you had to pay attention to what was close."Travels without husband: He's 6'5" and needs to know every detail in advance. She wants to give up control and say "Where are we going? Oh my god, that's amazing!" Different travel styles = separate trips.Burial mounds on Olleh trails: Ed mentioned walking through family cemeteries. Sora: "For us it's normal. We go there and say hello, give some food or alcohol." Holly found it peaceful, not creepy.Reverse culture shock: Coming home is harder than jet lag. Her family tells her to shut up about Korea. She plans trips 8-9 months ahead, saves so there's no bill when she returns.Olleh Trail tour idea: Ed and Sora discussed leading a walking tour. Sora: "If you don't get paid, it's not illegal." Holly volunteered to be the "spiritual guide."Haenyeo helper system: Sora explained visitors can help carry 20-30kg seaweed baskets. Holly: "That's heavy."Lightning RoundFavorite food: Bulgogi, fresh seafood, 김치찌개 (kimchi jjigae), and 소맥 (somaek)Favorite place: Udo and 주상절리 (Jusangjeolli, hexagonal basalt cliffs) — "It looked like you were in space"Favorite memory: Laughing with friends over beer after a full day. "Just being able to be in the moment without a worry."Next StepsPlan your trip: vamosajeju.com/tripGot questions? We've got answers!: vamosajeju.com/ask

    Ep 39: Writer, Podcaster, Seer — Holly Hughes's Inner Discoveries on Jeju | Guest Series

  2. Oct 26

    Ep 38: Cousins on the Trail — Daryuen O'Rourke Walks the Jeju Olleh | Guest Series

    Ed's cousin Daryuen joins him for five days on the Jeju Olleh Trail, her first time in Korea. They walk through rainy weather, discover a restaurant that's literally someone's house, watch Haenyeo haggle and ride off on their trikes, and accidentally complete two trails in one day when the Haenyeo Museum turns out to be closed. Plus: Jaden's barbecue skills get more airtime than usual. Key TakeawaysCousins who go way back: Ed and Dar traveled the US together as kids (ages 8 and 10) on a month-long road trip from California to New York to Canada to Italy. Now both empty nesters, they reunited on the Olleh Trail.First impressions of Jeju: Dar expected the "Hawaii of Korea" but only saw tourists at the airport on her way out. Walking the trail, she experienced calm farmlands, coastal paths, and local villages instead.The restaurant with a bed: They stumbled into a tiny eatery where the owner's bed was next to the kitchen. No English, five items on the menu, ocean breeze, one of the best meals of the trip.Haenyeo sightings: Dar watched Haenyeo haggle with a buyer, saw them drive off on their trikes with orange floats, and visited the Haenyeo Museum (on a day it was actually open).Two trails in one day: When the Haenyeo Museum was closed on a Monday, they kept walking and finished trails 20 and 21 in a single day, using phone flashlights to find the final stamp station after dark.Udo lighthouse museum: They took the ferry to Udo and hiked up to a lighthouse museum with scale models of lighthouses from around the world. Few tourists because no bus access.Dog walking volunteer outing: Ed, Dar, Sora, and Jaden walked rescue dogs at a local shelter, an experience Dar found meaningful even as a non-dog person.Packing tip: Dar flew from California with no checked bag. Waterproof jacket, pants, and shoes got her through rainy days just fine.Next StepsTrip planner: vamosajeju.com/tripGot questions? We've got answers!: vamosajeju.com/ask

    Ep 38: Cousins on the Trail — Daryuen O'Rourke Walks the Jeju Olleh | Guest Series

  3. Oct 19

    Ep 37: American Haenyeo — Kylie Genter on Becoming a Jeju Woman Diver | Guest Series

    Kylie Genter came to Korea in 2012 knowing nothing except Gangnam Style, chose Korea over Japan because she didn't want to find her own apartment, and somehow ended up as one of the only foreign Haenyeo in Jeju. She dives with the women of Yongnangni Village in the southwest, met her Korean husband at a language exchange that produced seven married couples, and runs a dog hotel as her main income. Sora announces she's been accepted into Haenyeo school, making Kylie her 선배님 (sunbaenim). Key TakeawaysHow Kylie became Haenyeo: Attended Hansupul Haenyeo school in 2018 after a shamanism class instructor invited her. Her scuba instructor husband then found a village accepting young divers. Yongnangni initially said no to a foreigner, then called back a month later: "Come tomorrow for an interview." The older women didn't understand why a college graduate would do this, but after months of diving, they accepted her.Language exchange romance: Kylie met her husband at Seogwipo language exchange in 2018. Seven couples from that group got married. "Nobody had an intention to study."Yongnangni Village: Southwest Jeju, six young divers (rare for any village), very welcoming. The 삼촌 (samchon, elder divers) give her 25 onions or huge containers of kimchi randomly. "They have very kind and open hearts."Diving schedule: 물때 (Multae) = water cycle, about two weeks. Eight possible diving days per cycle. Only dive October to May (소라/conch season). Summer is sea urchin season but their sea urchins are too small. Must do 바다지킴이 (padajikimi, ocean protection) in summer, yelling at people illegally harvesting.Current export crisis: 70% of conch exports to Japan. The boat was sold with no backup, so January had no diving. Diving days shortened until resolved.Haenyeo Hangout podcast: Kylie co-hosts with JY (Korean-English translator) to share Haenyeo life in English. "I don't want people to think Haenyeo are these mysterious goddess things. We're all regular people."Hardest part of diving: "Everything looks like a rock." Dark ocean, dark stones, dark conch, dark sea urchins. The experienced Haenyeo don't see better; they know from experience where things are.Practical Jeju tips from Kylie: Get international driver's license for car rental. Bus routes can have one bus per day. Jeju is bigger than people think; plan ample travel time. Parking in Jeju City is painful.Reverse culture shock: Jinju people stared at foreigners constantly. Jeju natives are unfazed. "Yeah, OK. Go this way."Lightning RoundFavorite food: 방어회 (Bongeo-hoe) — amberjack/yellowtail sashimiFavorite place: Coastal road between Moseulpo and Gosan — best sunsets, most dolphinsFavorite memory: First time seeing dolphins in the water (scary and exciting), and getting married (exciting, less scary)Next StepsCheck out Kylie's podcast: Haenyeo HangoutPlan your trip: vamosajeju.com/tripGot questions? We've got answers!: vamosajeju.com/ask

    Ep 37: American Haenyeo — Kylie Genter on Becoming a Jeju Woman Diver | Guest Series

  4. Oct 12

    Ep 36: An Imperfect Mosaic — When Good Enough is Good Enough | Guest Series

    Sora turns the tables and interviews Ed about his unconventional life: soldier, journalist, dive magazine founder, Microsoft contractor, scuba instructor, slow traveler, language learner, and now "retired" podcaster. He reveals why he homeschooled his kids and took them on 5-month trips across America and Asia, why he walks for hours to "hack his brain," and how he managed to wrangle his temper so that, despite being a mosaic with cracked pieces, he thinks he's "still good enough" for the people whom he loves. Key TakeawaysCareer path: Soldier (mandatory in Singapore) → journalist → dive magazine founder → Microsoft contractor → financial independence → "retired" but helping friends worldwide (Thailand underwater docs, Vietnam cycling tourism, Vamos a Jeju)Homeschooling: Ed and Michele pulled their kids out of traditional school. Two major trips: 5-month RV across America (sea to shining sea), then 5-month Asia trip including Mongolia. Kids had to create their own YouTube videos as curriculum.Slow travel philosophy: Stay 3-4 weeks minimum per place; make real friends; better value (Airbnb monthly discounts, fewer flights). "Travel hacking" with credit card points for flights.Frugal vs. cheap: "We're not cheap with others, we're frugal with ourselves." Ed stayed in a hotel with cockroaches when alone. With friends, he tries to pay."Reverse empty nesters": Instead of kids leaving, Ed and Michele leave. When they return, the kids actually want to spend time with them.청개구리 (Cheong-gaeguri): "Green frog" = Korean term for contrarian/rebellious person. Ed avoided Camino de Santiago because too many people told him to do it. "I never lost myself, so I don't need to find myself."Anger and change: Ed's "seething rage" in his 20s-30s terrified his young daughter and nearly ended his marriage. Michele's ultimatum was the wake-up call. He realized he'd become his father despite promising himself he wouldn't.Walking meditation: Ed's method was partitioning two selves, giving energy to the one he wants to be, having honest self-talk during walks. After 15 years, "the angry part has become smaller and weaker.""Mosaic": Ed describes himself as a mosaic with chipped and cracked pieces, but "still good enough to look at."Paying it forward: Ed helps younger people because mentors took chances on him (one Dutch guy gave him his Microsoft opportunity). "Vamos a Jeju is Sora's brainchild. I'm just the assistant."Future plans: Joint Olleh Trail program on JejuSlowly.com; possibly one-week Olleh itinerary with Ed as unpaid guide.Next StepsTrip planner: vamosajeju.com/tripGot questions? We've got answers!: vamosajeju.com/askSora's tours: jejuslowly.com or vamosajeju.com/sora

    Ep 36: An Imperfect Mosaic — When Good Enough is Good Enough | Guest Series

  5. Oct 5

    Ep 35: Insider Insight — Sora Spills the Beans on Korea | Guest Series

    Ed kicks off the Guest Series by putting Sora in the "hot seat." She reveals her mom's sister went to North Korea and was never heard from again, that sogaeting (blind dates) are now run by companies that score you based on income and parents' wealth, and that Korea's birth rate hit 0.78. She also announces her new tour agency (jejuslowly.com) focused on Haenyeo and wellness tourism, which won a Korean Tourism Organization award. Key TakeawaysNorth Korea: South Koreans rarely think about it. "We're too busy with competition here." Sora's mother's sister went to North Korea and never returned.소개팅 (Sogaeting): Not "blind" — you exchange photos, school, job, salary, MBTI beforehand. Large matchmaking companies assign you a "score" based on education, income, and parents' wealth. You're matched with similar scores.속도위반 (Sogdowiban): "Shotgun wedding" in Korean. Literally "speeding violation" — you went too fast.Marriage customs: Proposals aren't surprises; couples reach consensus first. Women never change surnames. Old preference for sons has flipped: "If you have a daughter, you get an airplane. If you have a son, you get a car."Birth rate: Korea's was 0.78 recently. Sora doesn't plan to have children due to climate change and societal competition.Education: ~60% attend university. SKY (Seoul, Korea, Yonsei) = Ivy League equivalent. Some kindergartens prep kids for US Ivy League. Parents yelling at cops about ruining their child's "medical career" is real.Tour horror story: A guest yelled at Sora: "Do you mean my son who went to Seoul University law school did something wrong?" over a plane seat mix-up.Sora's new business: jejuslowly.com — Haenyeo experiences, wellness (yoga, temple, meditation), 2-night/3-day slow tours. Won Korean Tourism Organization award. Podcast listeners get a discount.Next StepsSora's tours: jejuslowly.com (or vamosajeju.com/sora)Trip planner: vamosajeju.com/tripVoice questions: vamosajeju.com/askNext episode: Sora interviews Ed

    Ep 35: Insider Insight — Sora Spills the Beans on Korea | Guest Series

  6. Sep 28

    Ep 34: K-Drama — Our Blues | K Culture Deep Dive

    Ed and Sora wrap up their K-drama review series with Our Blues (우리들의 Blues), a 2022 ensemble drama set in a fictional Jeju fishing village. The series tackles depression, teenage pregnancy, Down syndrome representation, hyper-competitive parenting, and the suffocating nature of small-town life. Ed watched it twice; Sora quit after Episode 6 because "it was too heavy." The episode opens with Sora sharing that she was rejected by a Haenyeo village cooperative, which turns out to be a fitting transition into the show's themes. Key TakeawaysWriter Noh Hee-kyung: Known for warm, healing, family-focused dramas rather than typical romantic comedies. Some Koreans criticize her for being "preachy," but her ensemble slice-of-life style is harder to write and resonates deeply.Lee Byong-hun's character: A truck vendor who drives around selling pots, pans, and goods. Short-tempered, kind-hearted, carrying trauma from being the child of a mistress. His sales pitch recordings ("fry pan, fry pan") and his mannequin-modeling of ajumma clothes are comedic highlights.Depression storyline (Shin Mina's character): Used imagery of drowning and suffocation. The character attempts suicide by jumping off a jetty; Haenyeos rescue her. Five years ago in Korea, people couldn't openly discuss depression without stigma. Now conversations are more common. Ed admits he used to make fun of depressed people when he was younger. Sora shares she had a period of depression during grad school during the pandemic.기러기 아빠 (Kirogi Appa, "Wild Goose Father"): The phenomenon where fathers work in Korea while mothers and children live abroad (often in the US) for education. The fact that Korean has a specific word for this shows how common it was. Sora's corporate boss was a Kirogi Appa who avoided going home because no one was there.Down syndrome representation: An actress with Down syndrome played a character with Down syndrome. Koreans were surprised and impressed. The handsome boat captain (Kim Woo-bin) apologizes for his shocked reaction: "I've never seen anyone with Down syndrome. I never learned what to do. If you feel uncomfortable, I'm sorry." Ed: "Hats off to the producers for being so inclusive."Teenage pregnancy: Two high school students, both top of their class (she was #1, he was #2), get pregnant. She wanted to escape to Seoul because "everyone knows each other and it's choking me." The small-town gossip culture: "In small towns, they know how many spoons and chopsticks you have at home."Mainlander Haenyeo: A young Haenyeo from the mainland struggles to be accepted by the cooperative. Sora: "Now I am in that process... I know it would be really difficult to get in as an outsider, as someone who is not from Jeju, also not from that village specifically."Small-town trade-off: Young people from Seoul move to Jeju for community and connection. But if the connection gets too deep, they pull back. Ed: "If I move to Jeju, I'm gonna purposely keep this 외국인 (foreigner) persona... 'You're in my business? I don't speak Korean now.'"Next StepsK-drama shooting locations: vamosajeju.com/trip (Our Blues was filmed all over the island)Got questions? We've got answers!: vamosajeju.com/ask

    Ep 34: K-Drama — Our Blues | K Culture Deep Dive

  7. Sep 21

    Ep 33: K-Movie — Hallan (Winter Orchid) | K Culture Deep Dive

    Hallan follows a mother and daughter fleeing government forces during the Jeju April 3rd Incident (1948-1954), when an estimated 30,000 people were killed in anti-communist purges. The movie is named after the winter orchid that grows on Hallasan even in the harshest winter, much like the people how Jeju survived the darkest of times. The conversation turns to why Jeju people are so exclusive, the "lost villages" that no longer exist, and why older Haenyeos never talk about this period. Key Takeaways한란 (Hallan): "Hal" from Hallasan + "lan" meaning orchid. Winter orchid of Hallasan that survives harsh conditions, symbolizing hope.April 3rd Incident (4·3 사건, Sasam) historical context:1910-1945: Korea under Japanese colonial rule (35 years)1945: Japan surrenders after atomic bombs; Korea "independent" but occupied by US in south, Soviet Union in northMarch 1, 1947: Peaceful parade in Jeju (commemorating 1919 independence protests); police killed a baby accidentally sparking a riot and more deadIsland-wide strike followed, including HaenyeoUS Army investigated and concluded Jeju was a "Red Island" (communist)April 3, 1948: Guerrillas attacked police stations and government buildings at night; war begins1948-1954: Seven years of killing; anyone 5km from the coast considered a guerrilla and shot on sight; scorched earth policy burned mid-mountain villages~30,000 people killed (government figure)The movie's message: No one was purely good or bad. Government soldiers committed atrocities. Guerrillas also killed innocent villagers. American forces were complicit (asking "how many?" with quotas). Even the Christian soldier who tried to maintain morality eventually snapped, killed his squad, and took his own life.Key scenes:Opening: Bodies tied to trees with warning signsMother searching for husband who was killed by guerrillas for suspected spyingLava caves as hiding places; army set fires to smoke people out (Tarangshwi cave)White flags of surrender ignored; Jeju-speaking soldier killed by mainland commander for being "too friendly"Shimbang (Jeju shaman) blessing those leaving to surrender, tying white mourning cloths knowing they would dieTrial scene: 6-year-old girl stamped as "rioter" (death sentence)Modern scenes cut to Jeju Airport and Peace Memorial, both sites of massacresWhy Jeju people are exclusive: Sora says the common answer is historical trauma. "Lots of people from outside, outsiders, tried to invade and attack these people." Suspicion applies not just to foreigners (외국인) but also mainlanders (육지 사람).Peace Memorial Park: Memorials organized by village; ~30,000 names. Includes room dedicated to those killed in cave massacres. Shoes memorial at Sotal Oreum: people threw shoes from trucks so families could follow and find their bodies; children's shoes among them.Next StepsLearn more: vamosajeju.com/43Plan your trip: vamosajeju.com/trip (includes April 3rd sites: Peace Memorial Park, Altteureu Airfield, Sotal Oreum)Send voice questions: vamosajeju.com/ask (90 seconds max)

    Ep 33: K-Movie — Hallan (Winter Orchid) | K Culture Deep Dive

  8. Sep 14

    Ep 32: K-Drama — When Life Gives You Tangerines | K Culture Deep Dive

    When Life Gives You Tangerines (폭싹 속았수다, Poksak Sokassuda) follows three generations of Jeju women from the post-Korean War era to the present, and both hosts find it uncomfortably close to their own family histories. The conversation ranges from the show's worldwide popularity to why some Korean men were trying to emulate Gwanshik. Key Takeaways폭싹 속았수다 (Poksak Sokassuda): Jeju dialect meaning something like "수고하셨습니다" or "고생하셨습니다" (thank you for your hard work, we suffered through this together).양관식 신드롬 (Yang Gwanshik Syndrome): SNL Korea did a parody about Korean men who think they're like Gwanshik and try to emulate his behavior. Based on a real trend of men using K-drama characters as role models.Generational trauma reflected in the show:Two separate tables at family meals (men/elders vs. women), with women getting lower quality food/leftoversSora: "I did the same thing. When we went to my grandpa's house, we always had two different tables for women and for men and elders."Three generations of women: The show traces Jeju and Korean history through grandmother Kwangne (Haenyeo who died young), mother Aesun (IU's mother), and daughter Geummyeong (IU). Jeju women had "double discrimination": housework, raising children, AND making money (unlike mainland where men worked and women stayed home).Power dynamics in Korean families:고부갈등 (gobu-galdeung): mother-in-law vs. daughter-in-law conflict, a recurring K-drama trope that reflects realityParents with sons have more power than parents with daughtersSon-in-law visits: family prepares a feast. Daughter-in-law visits: she does the work.Ed: "My daughter is precious to me and she is not in the world to be another person's servant."황혼이혼 (Hwanghon Ihon): "Sunset divorce" or "dusk divorce." After children are raised and married, parents finally divorce. The rate has increased significantly in Korea.Why Gwanshik was rare in 1960s-70s: Confucian patriarchy from Joseon Dynasty; preference for boys over girls; women couldn't get education or work. Changed after 1980s-90s when women started working and getting educated.Sora's personal connection: Her father-in-law was "kind of this character" (Haksi), which triggered Jaden while watching. But Jaden "chose me over the family, chose over the parents," like Gwanshik did.Why it went global: Common themes across cultures (family conflict, generational trauma, mother-in-law tension). IU's star power brought viewers in; story quality made them stay. Excellent English translation that captured emotional nuance rather than literal meaning.Loop of seasons: Every four episodes named after a season (spring, summer, autumn, winter). Korean saying: 봄 여름 가을 겨울 그리고 다시 봄 (spring, summer, fall, winter, and spring again). The loop of nature = the loop of life.The publisher at the end: Played by the same actress as Aesun's mother, says "Aesun, I'm so proud of you." Ed wonders if it was intentional symbolism (mother reincarnated) or just casting.Next StepsPlan your Jeju trip at vamosajeju.com/tripK-drama shooting locations: Episodes 27 and 28Send voice questions to vamosajeju.com/ask (90 seconds max)Subscribe to our YouTube channel @vamosajeju

    Ep 32: K-Drama — When Life Gives You Tangerines | K Culture Deep Dive
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5
out of 5
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About

Vamos a Jeju is your hub to help DIY travelers discover the rich culture, serene peace, and natural beauty of Korea's Jeju Island. It's all the magnificent vistas that Hawaii has to offer, but set in an entirely different and exciting culture, all at a fraction of the price. Come join us and unlock: the intrepid sea women who dive for seafood sans breathing aids;the ancient stories still spun by the island's shamanistic practices;the majestic landscape of fire and stone carved by magma;the breathtaking majesty of the island's hidden places. Welcome to our island home!

Information

  • Creator
    The Vamos a Jeju Podcast!
  • Years Active
    2026
  • Episodes
    40
  • Rating
    Clean
  • Copyright
    © 2026 The Vamos a Jeju Podcast!
  • Show Website
    Vamos a Jeju!

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