Speaking Of Fashion

The Vanilla Issue

Speaking Of Fashion is a podcast by The Vanilla Issue, exploring the people, ideas, and stories shaping fashion today. Hosted by Shreya "BrownFashionGal" Shrivastava, each episode brings together designers, creatives, founders, and industry voices for honest conversations about building a career, finding your creative identity, navigating the fashion world, and everything in between.

Episodes

  1. Oct 15

    Speaking Of Fashion #10 Nafisa Tosh

    What does it take to make a garment look flawless on the runway or red carpet? In this episode of Speaking of Fashion, I sit down with Nafisa Tosh, a leading tailor and sample machinist whose clients include Chanel and Prada. She has worked with Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane and Jasper Conran, and has tailored for stars like Tom Holland and Zendaya. Nafisa takes us from her father’s tailoring shop, which he opened after moving from Gujarat to London in 1960, to the top ateliers of the fashion world. We talk about the golden age of fashion, why paper magazines still matter, what a creative director should bring to the table, and why the people who actually make the clothes deserve far more credit. In this episode: Growing up in a tailor’s family and choosing fashion as a South Asian woman in the UKLearning the craft from the ground up, one technique at a timeWhy Vogue was her Bible, and the story of her mum throwing out her collectionIs creativity “watered down” in the digital age?Her take on Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel and the Bavita outfit backlashTeaching at Central Saint MartinsWorking with Lee McQueenChristopher Kane’s “Princess Margaret on acid” collectionSewing for Jasper Conran and Princess Diana’s wardrobeWhy stylists get too much credit and makers too littleRunning a studio, managing a team and getting paidDoes fashion education still teach the technical skills?London vs. Paris vs. MilanTimestamps 00:00 Introduction 00:59 Nafisa’s family story and journey into fashion 06:23 Early career and learning the craft 14:21 Vogue, magazines and their relevance today 19:07 Is creativity watered down? 23:03 Chanel, Matthieu Blazy and the Bavita outfit 26:30 Teaching at CSM: students then vs. now 31:12 The role of a creative director 33:37 Working with Alexander McQueen 39:51 Christopher Kane and the neon collection 45:47 Jasper Conran, Princess Diana and Elizabeth Emanuel 49:56 Credit for the people who make the clothes 55:22 Running a studio and a team of 30 to 40 59:31 Fashion education and practical skills 1:00:24 London, Paris and Milan compared 🎙 Guest: Nafisa Tosh 🎙 Host: Brown Fashion Gal 👉 Subscribe for more conversations with the people behind fashion.

  2. Sep 27

    Speaking Of Fashion #9 Karina Bond

    From hot glue dresses to 3D-printed couture — Karina Bond takes us inside her wildly original approach to fashion tech. On this episode of Speaking of Fashion, Karina talks about training at Central Saint Martins (on her third attempt), building her brand the day she graduated, why she's drawn to techniques that "can't be done," and how a $15 arts-and-crafts 3D pen became her signature couture tool. We also get into AI vs. human creativity, the real sustainability story behind 3D-printed "plastic" garments, dressing Jisoo, and why London may be losing its edge as fashion's emerging-designer capital. Timestamps: 0:00 – Intro 0:40 – How Karina got into fashion (drawing dresses since childhood) 1:56 – Studying at Central Saint Martins (rejected twice first) 3:50 – Did fashion school prepare her for running a business? 4:54 – Starting her brand the day she graduated 6:00 – Why ready-to-wear is the hardest category right now 6:37 – Comparisons to Iris van Herpen and Robert Wun 7:11 – Where her creative inspiration really comes from 8:59 – Trends, taste, and stepping away from doomscrolling 11:32 – What is 3D printing, explained simply 12:18 – Why she was drawn to a technique that "can't scale" 13:35 – Will people 3D print their own clothes one day? 14:22 – The future: custom body scanning instead of sizing 16:26 – Being mistaken for AI-generated fashion 18:37 – Where she draws the line on using AI creatively 19:31 – Combining 3D printing with sportswear 21:10 – Rating 3D printing's sustainability (and its limits) 22:57 – Why "upcycling" isn't the sustainability answer 24:10 – Polyester, plastic, and Gen Z's fabric shaming 26:08 – Should luxury brands charge $2–3K for 100% polyester? 26:50 – Is the fashion industry supportive of experimental designers? 29:16 – Is London losing its status as the emerging-designer capital? 31:42 – Does social media virality actually drive sales? 33:22 – Why she started with 3D-printed bags 34:18 – Inside the 3D pen: how "couture 3D printing" works 38:49 – Getting dressed by Jisoo — and chasing Lady Gaga 41:06 – What the fashion industry could do better for emerging designers 43:11 – Closing thoughts

  3. Sep 12

    Speaking Of Fashion #8 Anastasia Samara

    In this episode of Speaking of Fashion, Brownfashiongal sits down with stylist and fashion critic Anastasia Samara for an honest and wide-ranging conversation about the current state of fashion. From dressing in Paris and the importance of quality and construction to the rise of casual dressing, fashion criticism online, and the constant musical chairs happening across major fashion houses, Anastasia shares her unfiltered perspective on where the industry is headed. We discuss Jonathan Anderson at Dior, Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, Demna at Gucci, Moschino and Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent, as well as the pressure placed on designers to deliver instant results. Anastasia also shares her thoughts on the decline of fashion editorials, the loss of creativity in styling, the importance of supporting emerging designers, and why fashion should remain a form of fantasy rather than becoming purely functional. And, of course, we talk about those Chanel barefoot shoes. Timestamps: 00:00 — Intro & meeting Anastasia 00:48 — Anastasia's journey into fashion 04:55 — How Paris has shaped her relationship with fashion 08:56 — What Anastasia looks for when buying clothes 10:45 — Fashion criticism online & the luxury consumer 15:04 — Why Anastasia started trying runway pieces in real life 17:11 — The designer "musical chairs" in fashion 21:40 — Jonathan Anderson at Dior 24:58 — Designer workload & empathy in fashion criticism 27:34 — Matthieu Blazy at Chanel 30:18 — How much of the Chanel "mania" is PR? 31:01 — Chanel's controversial barefoot shoes 32:18 — Why fashion needs fantasy, extravagance & fun 33:52 — Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta 35:32 — The return of sensuality in fashion 36:03 — Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford 37:56 — Demna at Gucci 41:10 — What's happening at Moschino? 42:36 — Why fashion needs to support new designers 44:01 — Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent 45:40 — The Saint Laurent nylon dress 48:24 — The state of fashion editorials 50:12 — Has Vogue lost its authenticity? 52:37 — Why fashion editorials feel stale 55:25 — The decline of creative styling 56:19 — The corporate mold of fashion 57:15 — "There is no fashion anymore. They're just clothes." 58:08 — Why fashion creatives need to dress the part 1:00:15 — Do people still care about fashion? 1:02:00 — Fashion as inspiration & the future of the industry 🎙️ Guest: Anastasia Samara 🎤 Interviewer: Brownfashiongal 📍 Speaking of Fashion What do you think about the current state of fashion? Which designer do you think deserves more time, and which fashion house needs a serious rethink? Let us know in the comments. #SpeakingOfFashion #AnastasiaSamara #Brownfashiongal #Fashion #FashionCriticism #FashionIndustry #LuxuryFashion #FashionStyling #FashionJournalism

  4. Sep 1

    Speaking Of Fashion #7 JUDASSIME

    Benjamin's journey into fashion began as a club kid, creating outfits for the nightlife scene. His brand, Club Couture, pays homage to his club kid days and features diverse collections. He believes that traditional fashion degrees are less important in today's landscape, and the most successful designers are often dropouts. He differentiates a real fashion brand from a TikTok fashion brand based on identity, craftsmanship, and storytelling. Benjamin's experience dressing Lady Gaga and Julia Fox had a significant impact on his brand, with Lady Gaga's support helping to save his company during a challenging time. He also discussed the responsibility of brands to support causes and bring awareness, emphasizing the need for consistent action rather than occasional responses to events. The conversation covers topics related to performative activism, gender fluidity in fashion, the challenges of being an independent designer, and a personal experience with a celebrity's team. It also delves into the toxic nature of celebrity fandoms and the impact of privilege in the fashion industry. Takeaways Club Couture pays homage to Benjamin's club kid days and features diverse collections.Traditional fashion degrees are less important in today's landscape, and successful designers are often dropouts.The differentiation between a real fashion brand and a TikTok fashion brand is based on identity, craftsmanship, and storytelling.Dressing Lady Gaga and Julia Fox had a significant impact on Benjamin's brand, with Lady Gaga's support helping to save his company during a challenging time.Brands have a responsibility to support causes and bring awareness, emphasizing the need for consistent action rather than occasional responses to events. Performative activism is a prevalent issue in the fashion industry.Gender fluidity in fashion design presents unique challenges and considerations.The life of an independent designer involves hard work, struggle, and the need to wear multiple hats.The toxic nature of celebrity fandoms and the impact of privilege in the fashion industry are significant issues. Chapters 00:00 The Club Kid Journey03:28 Traditional Fashion Degrees vs. Creativity05:54 Real Fashion Brand vs. TikTok Fashion Brand09:00 Shaping Fashion Journey in Belgium10:02 Influential Designers and Theatrical Elements12:13 Business and Creative Niche15:03 Dressing Lady Gaga and Julia Fox20:50 Identity and Responsibility of Brands33:41 Experience with a Celebrity's Team

  5. Aug 9

    Speaking Of Fashion #5 Maximilian Raynor

    The conversation covers Max Raynor's journey into fashion, his experience at CSM, the impact of social media on the fashion industry, and the challenges of running a fashion business. It also delves into the role of creative directors, the pressure to design for social media, and the formation of trends in the industry. The conversation covers the topics of celebrity dressing, the process for young designers to dress celebrities, the challenges and opportunities of getting on the fashion week calendar, and the aspirations of a designer to lead a fashion house or collaborate with heritage brands. The conversation covers a wide range of topics related to the fashion industry, including the role of creative directors, the importance of community and support, the impact of privilege, and the pursuit of a career in fashion. It also emphasizes the need for authenticity, finding one's own path, and the significance of taste and inspiration. Takeaways Fashion education and experience are deeply personal and can shape a designer's creative journey.The impact of social media on the fashion industry has led to a shift in focus from creativity to virality and marketing.The pressure to follow trends and design for social media can be a challenge for designers, especially when running a fashion business. Celebrity dressing involves being tactful with design, being visible on social media, and avoiding paying for celebrity endorsements.Getting on the fashion week calendar requires being present, visible, and involved in the industry, as well as seeking scholarships and support initiatives.The designer aspires to lead a fashion house, collaborate with heritage brands, and explore new and unique ways of generating revenue through collaborations and sponsorships. Creative directors play a crucial role in the fashion industryCommunity and support are essential for success in the fashion industry Chapters 00:00 Journey into Fashion02:00 CSM Experience06:00 Impact of Social Media on Fashion11:20 Challenges of Running a Fashion Business17:04 Role of Creative Directors and Trend Formation24:27 Celebrity Dressing and Visibility25:21 Challenges of Getting on the Fashion Week Calendar45:47 Aspirations to Lead a Fashion House and Collaborate with Heritage Brands50:06 The Role of Creative Directors51:11 Community and Support in Fashion52:06 The Impact of Privilege53:34 Pursuing a Career in Fashion55:02 The Importance of Taste and Inspiration56:27 Challenges and Support in the Fashion Industry57:32 Finding Inspiration and Support58:04 The Role of Privilege in Fashion59:01 The Pursuit of a Career in Fashion01:00:23 The Importance of Community and Support01:01:19 The Impact of Privilege in Fashion01:02:18 The Pursuit of a Career in Fashion01:03:08 The Role of Support and Privilege01:04:19 The Pursuit of a Career in Fashion01:05:08 The Impact of Privilege in Fashion01:06:38 Concluding Remarks

  6. Aug 5

    Speaking Of Fashion #4 Brian Carvalho

    The conversation covers the journey of a self-taught fashion designer, the impact of meeting John Galliano, the challenges of being a working class designer, the exploitation and responsibility in fashion, the impact of collaborations and exposure, the role of London as a hub for emerging designers, and the inspiration from eighteenth-century costuming. It also delves into the elitism and gatekeeping in the fashion industry, as well as the hiring based on attitude and hunger rather than formal education. The conversation delves into the designer's creative process, inspiration, and the emotional impact of fashion. It also explores the designer's vision for the BDC woman, the influence of queer identity in fashion, and the evolution of the corset as a symbol of empowerment and liberation. Takeaways The fashion industry is evolving to include more self-taught and non-traditional designers.The challenges of being a working class designer in a glamorous and elitist industry. Drawing inspiration from the past for modern fashionThe emotional impact of fashion and the importance of creating an emotional reaction in the audience. Chapters 00:00 Influence of John Galliano01:00 Fashion Journey and Self-Taught Sewing01:30 Impact of Meeting John Galliano03:02 Fashion Education and Creativity05:35 Hiring Based on Attitude and Hunger07:14 Challenges of a Working Class Designer09:54 Exploitation and Responsibility in Fashion12:23 Impact of Collaborations and Exposure19:29 London as a Hub for Emerging Designers23:30 Elitism and Gatekeeping in Fashion28:41 Inspiration from Eighteenth Century Costuming28:48 Drawing Inspiration from the Past30:42 The Razor Blade Dress32:41 Unconventional Materials and Artistic Expression33:39 Influential Designers and Rebellion in Fashion35:44 The BDC Woman: Unapologetic and Confident38:20 Emotional Impact of Fashion40:23 Queer Identity and Fashion43:30 The Evolution of the Corset

About

Speaking Of Fashion is a podcast by The Vanilla Issue, exploring the people, ideas, and stories shaping fashion today. Hosted by Shreya "BrownFashionGal" Shrivastava, each episode brings together designers, creatives, founders, and industry voices for honest conversations about building a career, finding your creative identity, navigating the fashion world, and everything in between.