A History of Europe in 75 Train Journeys Podcast

Thomas Ableman

Exploring European history through 75 train rides. From Charlemagne to Brexit, Oslo to Istanbul. Read one way: it’s a travelogue. Another: a sweeping history of the continent. Join me to ride the rails into the past! historyofeuropein75trainjourneys.substack.com

Episodes

  1. 3d ago

    Journey 10: Vienna to Venice

    Chapter 48 : Hunger, Hardship and the Marshall Plan In this journey, we cross the Alps and discover both the horrors of post-war hardship and the extent of human generosity and friendship. MAY 2006: WIEN WESTBAHNHOF We’ve never eaten from Subway before. Based on our experience at Vienna’s Westbahnhof, I doubt we will again. In general, when travelling, we like to eat the authentic local cuisine. Let’s be honest: in 21st-century Vienna, the authentic local cuisine probably is Subway. But we don’t have much choice – we’re in a rush for the night sleeper to Venice and are going to be on the train for the next 11 hours. So, Subway it is. Have you had a Subway? It’s remarkable. Why’s the bread sweet? Not in a delicious brioche-y way. In a weird ‘my sandwich tastes of sugar’ way. The sun is setting over the Vienna suburbs as we pull out of the station. We lie in the middle bunks of our couchette compartment and munch on our sweet Subway sandwiches and reflect just how lucky we are to have the luxury of being disappointed by a sandwich. For we are travelling between Austria and northern Italy, two of the places hardest hit by the post-war hunger crisis. The Second World War was humanity’s first experiment with ‘total war’, where everything - food, labour, land - was subordinated to victory. As the Red Army from the East and the Allies from the West had fought their way to Berlin, farms were destroyed, livestock slaughtered, people displaced and rail lines ripped up. If you’re not already a subscriber, please sign up. This is the 10th journey so there are 65 more to come - one a month. In Poland, by 1945, one in six farms was out of operation, three-quarters of railway track unusable and Warsaw had been totally destroyed. The situation was similar across Europe: not enough food was being grown and the food that was available could not be transported. Of 12,000 railway locomotives in France at the start of the war, just 2,800 remained at the end. Millions of head of cattle had been destroyed in the fighting: milk and meat were unobtainable luxuries. In the middle of the night, we will pass through Villach; the railway junction connecting Italy and Austria. This crucial connection, upon which the civilian populations of both countries depended, was bombed dozens of times in 1945. When there was a war to win, the future need for tracks to carry crops to feed civilians was not - could not be? - a consideration. By 1945, the population of Vienna that had survived the war was subsisting on rations of 800 calories per day; about a third of what is needed. In Budapest, the official ration was just 556 calories per day. We’re probably getting about that from our Subway sandwiches and we’ve already had two (better) meals today and hadn’t been starving to start with. During the Dutch ‘hunger winter’ of 1944 to 1945, the weekly calorie ration fell to the same level as the occupying military were recommending for their soldiers per day. 16,000 Dutch citizens died. As we finish our sickly Subways, our train is passing through the old 1945 Soviet zone. Vienna was also carved into four sectors like Berlin, with the Red Army holding the east of the city and much of the country around it. The problem of insufficient food was compounded by insufficient homes. 25 million Germans were homeless. France lost 500,000 homes in just the last few months of the war: 75% of homes in Berlin were uninhabitable in 1945. And this still wasn’t the worst of it. 87,000 women in Vienna reported to clinics having been raped in the three weeks following the Red Army’s arrival. And, of course, this will be a huge underestimate. Life in occupied Europe did not leave time to visit the doctor: the economy had collapsed. Currency was no longer available. Avoiding starvation was the priority. Infant mortality in Vienna quadrupled. Even the undernourished homeless were the lucky ones - if they knew where their home was meant to be. In 1945, Europe was a continent of ghosts: starving men and women with nowhere to return to. Surviving Jews could not return to homes which had been reallocated to their neighbours. Polish Jews returned to pogroms and had to flee again. Millions of Poles were evicted from the East of the country, which became part of Ukraine. They crossed to what had been the East of Germany, where millions of Germans were forced to move to make way for them: one set of ghosts evicted to make way for another set of ghosts. 13 million Germans were forced from parts of Poland, Czechoslovakia and what became Russian Kaliningrad. They joined prisoners of war, slave labourers, concentration camp victims and the ‘flotsam and jetsam’ of conflict on the move: underfed and frequently moving towards no known destination. The words ‘flotsam and jetsam’ were used by William Byford-Jones, a British Army officer, who described the endless convoys of civilians who’d lost their families, families who’d lost their homes, children who had lost everyone and mothers dying by the wayside as they walked. Millions more would have starved had the Allies not mounted the largest humanitarian aid programme of all time. When we watch bags of food aid being distributed in war zones, few remember that this was Europe in our grandparents’ lifetime. By late 1945, the United Nations Relief and Rehabilitation Administration (UNRRA) was operating 227 displaced persons’ camps in Germany, 25 in Austria and others throughout Europe. By 1947, the number of camps reached 762. At its peak in September 1945, UNRRA was feeding seven million displaced Allied citizens. The Soviet Union had its own scheme feeding a further seven million. German citizens were counted separately, but millions more were dependent on aid. It took until 1957 for the last displaced persons’ camp to be closed. The Marshall Plan did not emerge from American generosity, though it was generous. It emerged from American realisation that Europe would not survive without drastic action. The continent was in a doom loop: barely able to feed itself, no food meant no economy and no economy meant no food. In Germany, money had ceased to exist in any meaningful way. People lived on aid, or they bartered. The only usable currency was cigarettes. If you’re not already a subscriber, please sign up. This is the 10th journey so there are 65 more to come - one a month. By 1947, America had already transferred over $6 billion to Europe in emergency grants and loans, and the continent was still on its knees. Carrying on as they were felt like attempting to fill a leaky bucket with American cash. Stopping the cash would condemn Europe to starvation, civil war, fascism and communism. So felt American Secretary of State George Marshall and, based on the condition of Europe in 1947, it’s hard to believe he was wrong. Given that two world wars had started in Europe so far in the first half of the twentieth century, and both had involved the US, it was not an act of altruism to try to find a way of preventing a third. The key, Marshall realised, was to get Europe beyond hand-to-mouth starvation prevention and back towards a functioning economy. His European Recovery Programme, announced at Harvard on the 5th June 1947, involved a vast transfer of resources to Europe. Between 1948 and 1951, the USA spent 0.5-1% of its GDP on the Marshall Plan. This is – as a share of GDP - more than all US aid to every country on earth combined in recent years. The strength of the plan was that the USA would not provide cash but goods. These would be provided to Europe on a phased programme over multiple years, to a plan devised by the Europeans themselves. The goods could then be traded or sold, thus kick-starting a functioning economy. The Marshall Plan was a triumph. By 1950, every European recipient country – even West Germany – was exceeding its 1938 industrial production. The Marshall Plan paved the way for the economic miracle of the 1950s. As Tony Judt put it, “Without Marshall Aid, it is not clear how the fuel shortages, food shortages, cotton shortages and other commodity scarcities could have been overcome at a politically acceptable price”. But if the Marshall Plan was an act of self-interest, there certainly were acts of pure generosity. Who knows how many lives were saved by the American Friendship Train? This was a train that travelled across the US from west to east, collecting donations of food from ordinary Americans. By the time it reached New York, hundreds of box cars contained thousands of tons of food. The train was shipped across the Atlantic, and the food was distributed to communities across France and our destination of Italy. Each parcel contained the same label: ”All races and creeds make up the vast melting pot of America, and in the spirit of goodwill we, the American people, have worked together to bring this food to your doorsteps, hoping it will tide you over until your fields are once again rich and abundant with crops.” And, thankfully, such a moment did come. At which point, the gesture was reciprocated, thanks to the initiative of French railway worker André Picard. He arranged for a train of 49 box cars to travel through France, collecting thank-you gifts. Some were valuable but most were not. Europe was struggling, so the gifts were family heirlooms, prized mementoes, war medals or crafts. Each came with a handwritten gift tag from the donor. When the train arrived in America, it travelled the entire country. In each state, a box car was uncoupled and the gifts distributed to people from that state. As it didn’t reach Hawaii, they got to share Washington DC’s. Alaska was not yet a state. Recipients of gifts would then sometimes send a further thank you back to the donor in France. Transatlantic friendships were formed. Such is the power of the railway. Our train is neither a friendship train, nor a gratitude train. But, as we cross

  2. Sep 25

    Journey 9: Berlin to Kraków

    Chapter 43: The Holocaust This chapter of A History of Europe in 75 Train Journeys takes us to the darkest moment in all of our continent’s bloody history. If this was a BBC news report, they would warn that some people may find the contents of this post distressing. That is true. But it’s also crucial we never forget what we - as people - are capable of.Transcript: MAY 2006: BERLIN LICHTENBERG I’ve never before not felt thrilled to be on a sleeper train. I’m a sucker for the romance and excitement that comes from going to bed in one country, and waking up in another. So why not this time? We’re travelling from Berlin to Kraków. It will be my first ever time in Poland and Kraków is meant to be lovely. But as the train heaves its way out of the station, it’s not the ancient Polish capital that’s on my mind, but a small, rail-connected facility in the Polish town of Oświęcim, 40 miles outside. While the town is Polish, the site is better known to the world by the German name which was used during its period of operation: Auschwitz. And I’m travelling there from west to east on a night train from Germany to Poland. What were they thinking, all those fellow humans who travelled these very tracks before me? Did they know where they were going? Did they know why? How could they? Even though they were in a cattle truck, not a passenger carriage. Even though they’d been forced into it by a regime they knew hated them. Even though they would have heard the rumours, how could they imagine it? Industrialised mass murder feels inconceivable, impossible, unbearable now - and we know it happened. What did they think? What did they feel? They were on their way to a country most of them will never have been to before, sent by people who had long since stopped regarding them as human. The fear must have been overwhelming. I know where we’re going. I’ve seen the photos. I know about the railway line that brought them through the gates. And the ramp where they would be sorted between those to die now and those to die later. I wish there wasn’t a railway line. I don’t want the railways implicated. But this was an industrialised process, and the railways were at the heart of twentieth-century industry. The horror of the holocaust is so much greater because it was so modern. The photos of Auschwitz look so similar in style to the 1930s extensions of the tube. Same style of walls; same style of lamps. Horror is ever-present in history but it doesn’t normally travel by train. My night train passes over a set of points “clickety clack”. I think of the signalman pulling the points; setting the train in the direction it was scheduled to go. Did he know what he was doing? To what end he was pulling those points? Of course he did. Signallers always know what’s in the trains; coal, aggregates, grain, Jews. But what could he do? Refuse to pull the points? Resign? Maybe he should have done. The trains would still have run, though. Where does culpability stop? What would I have done in his shoes? I’ve been a railway employee. Oh, these are horrible questions! Questions that must be asked only in a society utterly corrupted. “Clickety click”. It’s a rhythmic, repeating sound, every couple of seconds. I imagine each one is a human being being reduced to a puff of smoke. “Clickety click”. Another person murdered. “Clickety click”. And another. And another. And another. So many. Thanks for reading A History of Europe in 75 Train Journeys! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work. The train is one of those old locomotive and carriage affairs, which means that - if you walk to the back - you can look out of the rear window and see the railway lines. I push my way down the narrow, crowded corridor. The coaches are dark and the lights dim. Families are settling themselves to bed; couples are sitting drinking. “Verzeihung”, I say, “excuse me”, in German. I reach the back window. The tracks stretch, perfectly straight, behind the train, shining and then disappear into the gloom. I stare at the tracks and the blur of the sleepers with a heavy knot of misery in my stomach. I’m two years into a transport career and have just finished a graduate training scheme with Britain’s largest rail operator. I chose this career because trains are, for me, the ultimate symbol of hope. They are about human connection: about love and life, job interviews and business deals, birthday parties and illicit affairs. But now these lines, receding rapidly into the west, look sinister. I hate how the railway was corrupted for this evil. In Mechelen, there is a Belgian state railway cattle truck on display outside the Kazerne Dossin, the site where Jews were stored before transportation to the East. The truck has the SNCB logo on the side. It’s the same logo as used today. The joy of European train travel is the way every country is connected to every other. This connectivity was turned to poison by such a use of it. Poison. Why did the SS put the poison in themselves? They did, you know. They forced the prisoners to do literally everything else. Prisoners had to herd the victims into the gas chambers and to push the bodies out again and retrieve the valuables and load the corpses into the ovens and cook the bodies and sweep up the ash. The only thing the SS did was drop the capsules of poison into the chambers. Why? Did they want to? Did they want to know that every victim was killed by a card-carrying Nazi? Or was there some minuscule stirring of bureaucratic empathy in not forcing Jews to murder their own kind; possibly their own families? The prisoners forced into running the camps were known as the Sonderkommando. It only means “special command” but whenever I see the word “Sonder” used in German I feel a sudden shock to the stomach as I remember these poor souls who survived only by facilitating the mass murder of their friends. I sometimes see it on the front of trams. The Sonderkommando felt more positive about trains… if anyone could feel positive about anything in those circumstances. The hideous corruption of morals forced by their circumstances meant that their only hope was when they heard that a train was on its way. Thousands of victims crammed into wagons, destined for extermination, meant - to the Sonderkommando - food. You see, the SS didn’t give them enough to eat. They had to steal the last food from those doomed to die, before assisting in their murder. I hate the men who forced them into this horror. “Clickety click”. It’s still going on. How many more imaginary Jews have died in my head since I first heard it? “Clickety click”. I imagine I’m going to sit up all night and count. Every “Clickety click, clickety click” is another two humans being burned. How many would that be if I don’t go to sleep at all? Let’s think. Two a second, so… I do the maths. What? Just 75,000?! That’s not even 1% of the victims of the Holocaust! So many lives, so many murders; I could sit up all night, two murders per second, and it’s less than 1% of the total? Though some people did, against all the odds, survive. Years into the future, I will be on a train in Poland and get chatting to one of my fellow travellers. He’ll turn out to be on his honeymoon, though he lives in New Zealand. Nice chap. It’ll turn out that his great-grandad was part of the Sobibor rebellion; one of just 50 to survive of the 200,000 sent to Sobibor. Thanks for reading A History of Europe in 75 Train Journeys! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work. Do you know about the Sobibor rebellion? On 14th October 1943, the camp’s Jewish workers executed an escape plan that actually worked (the vast majority of escape plans did not). My companion’s great-granddad was the one who cut the telegraph lines. Otherwise my companion would never have been born. I drag myself away from the compulsive sight of the railway tracks receding, and return to my compartment. “Clickety click”. It’s time for bed. My stomach still feels heavy with grief for people I’ll never meet. The next morning, I look out of the window for my first sight of Poland. Do you know why the death camps were in Poland? It’s because there were so many Jews in Poland. And do you know why? It’s because they’d been so welcome there. In 1334, Kazimierz the Great passed a law prohibiting persecution of Jews. Later that century, when Jews throughout Europe were being blamed for the Black Death, thousands moved in search of protection, which they received. Kazimierz also formed an alliance with Lithuania, which gradually became the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. As a result, there were also many Jews in Lithuania. When the war broke out, there were 100 synagogues in Vilnius. Today, there’s just one. There’s no need for the other 99; their worshippers were taken to the Ponary Forest (just six miles out of town) and murdered. To be honest, I don’t think I’ve woken up in a better frame of mind than I went to bed, though the sleeper train has worked its magic and we’re nearly at the end of our trip. Many Holocaust victims would be on their trains for ten or more days and nights, often without food or water. Many died on the journey. Not that arrival was really something to look forward to. In 1944, a surge in Hungarian Jewish arrivals by train at Auschwitz meant the crematoria could not cope, so some bodies had to be burned in open-air pits, like in the Ponary Forest. Otto Moll, the SS man in charge of the crematoria, ordered a naked woman to dance and sing on top of the pile of corpses to be burned. Then he shot her and burned the bodies. He would throw children onto the fire alive. The two things about the holocaust that I find unbearable (other than the outcome: roughly 11 million human beings murdered, including six million Jews) are the combination of bureaucratic organisation and

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Exploring European history through 75 train rides. From Charlemagne to Brexit, Oslo to Istanbul. Read one way: it’s a travelogue. Another: a sweeping history of the continent. Join me to ride the rails into the past! historyofeuropein75trainjourneys.substack.com