Cast On

Brenda Dayne

Cast On began on Monday, 31 October, 2005, founded on nothing more than the desire to talk about knitting to people who get it. Since then, the podcast has evolved to focus on finding inspiration in the ordinary, using it to kick start the process of making stuff, and finding ways to carve out the creative time and space that allows you to work your ass off on the projects that matter most to you. Like knitting a sweater. Or saving the world. brendadayne.substack.com

  1. 3d ago

    213 Fit

    The quest for trousers that actually fit involved eBay-stalking vintage pattern drafting books - Flat Pattern Cutting and Modelling for Fashion (Helen Stanley, 1972), Pattern Drafting and Dressmaking (Dorothy Moore, 1971), Dress Pattern Designing (Natalie Bray, 1961) - a Craftsy class, and sixty hours of work that produced a toile so catastrophically wrong I couldn’t bend my knees to climb the stairs. Cal Patch has spent years solving this from her studio in upstate New York - flat pattern drafting that starts with the body, not the size chart. This episode is a conversation with her about where the lightbulb turns on. The other revolution arrives by YouTube: top-down-centre-out, originated by Ruth Collins and taught in Stacey Taylor’s free tutorial series, starts with the one thing every well-fitting pair of pants hangs on: the waistband. The Pegs from Merchant & Mills are the making project - 1950s cut, high waist, narrowing to a turned-up cuff. The trousers aren’t finished. The method is sound. FURTHER READING * The 1958 US commercial sizing standard * Ruth O’Brien & William Shelton’s 1941 WPA study on women’s body measurements * The finding that approximately 8% of women have the hourglass proportions commercial patterns are graded for, Joy Spanabel Emery, A History of the Paper Pattern Industry * The 2025 plus-size runway representation collapse * Butterick’s 1863 graded tissue paper pattern - the first commercial sewing pattern Music: Story of Our Lives by Tim Halperin This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit brendadayne.substack.com/subscribe

  2. 12/10/2025

    206 Quality

    Zabava Shorties disasters. The signs were there. Sometimes, you need to break up with a sock pattern. “It’s not you, it’s me. I don’t like you anymore.” Meanwhile, the Peppermint Pocket Skirt delivers enormous pockets perfect for sock projects, and Ruth Collins’ Top Down Centre Out method might revolutionize trouser fitting. The Bradford Road wrap progresses through garter rectangles. Big Love Cardigan waits for cooler weather. But sewing succeeded where knitting failed—the Peppermint Pocket Skirt (free collaboration between Peppermint Magazine and Paper Theory) paired beautifully with the Block Tee, with right angle sewing tutorial making construction straightforward. The revelation: Ruth Collins’ Top Down Centre Out trouser fitting method. Begin with fitted waistband, construct single-leg toile, achieve proper fit without body-shaming adjustments. Demonstrated through Stacey Taylor’s free YouTube series at The Crooked Hem. Beyond practical successes and failures: Robert Pirsig’s concept of Quality from Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. Through memories of 4-H sewing club and Claire Schaeffer’s couture techniques, we consider how sustained attention gets woven into handmade items’ structure. What happens when we show up fully present—whether adjusting carburetors or setting sleeves. Music: Jim Fidler, Merrigan’s Reel; The Wilder Road, The Light the Heat; The National Parks, Who Knows This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit brendadayne.substack.com/subscribe

4.7
out of 5
459 Ratings

About

Cast On began on Monday, 31 October, 2005, founded on nothing more than the desire to talk about knitting to people who get it. Since then, the podcast has evolved to focus on finding inspiration in the ordinary, using it to kick start the process of making stuff, and finding ways to carve out the creative time and space that allows you to work your ass off on the projects that matter most to you. Like knitting a sweater. Or saving the world. brendadayne.substack.com

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