Just Grow Something | Evidence-Based Home Gardening

Karin Velez
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  • Home & Garden
  • Updated Weekly

Grow a better vegetable garden, whether you're a seasoned gardener or have never grown a thing in your life. Karin helps home gardeners learn to grow their own food using evidence-based techniques and research. She talks all about specific plants, pests, diseases, soil and plant health, mulch, garden planning, and more. It's not just the "how" but also the "why" that makes us better. The goal? For everyone to know how to grow their own food no matter what sized space they have or their experience level. Tune in each week to plan, learn, and grow with your friend in the garden, Karin Velez.

  1. 2d ago

    Battling Blossom End Rot the Right Way - Ep. 309

    If you've grown tomatoes or peppers for more than one season, you more than likely know the feeling been waiting that first tomato to ripen, finally see it’s blushing red, and you flip it over to find a sunken, leathery patch covering half the bottom of the fruit. And if you went looking for answers, you probably found three of them repeated everywhere you turned: sprinkle in some crushed eggshells, spray on some calcium, add a scoop of Epsom salt. All three of those are extremely common advice. Two of them do close to nothing. And one of them can genuinely make the problem worse. That problem? Blossom end rot. Today on Just Grow Something we're covering what blossom end rot really is at the cellular level, the conditions that trigger it in your garden, why the most popular home remedies for it are built on a total misunderstanding of the problem, and what the research consistently recommends instead. Let's dig in. University Extension and Research-Based Resources Utah State University Extension — Blossom End Rot (IPM Fact Sheet) https://extension.usu.edu/planthealth/ipm/notes_ag/veg-blossom-end-rot Purdue Extension — Blossom End Rot of Tomato Fruit (BP-13-W) https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/bp/bp-13-w.html University of Maryland Extension — Blossom End Rot on Vegetables https://extension.umd.edu/resource/blossom-end-rot-vegetables Alabama Cooperative Extension System — Blossom-End Rot in Tomatoes: Causes and Prevention (ANR-1059) https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-garden/blossom-end-rot-in-tomatoes-causes-and-prevention/ University of Massachusetts Amherst, Center for Agriculture, Food, and the Environment — Solanaceous: Blossom End Rot https://ag.umass.edu/vegetable/fact-sheets/solanaceous-blossom-end-rot Oregon State University Extension — Blossom-End Rot of Tomatoes (FS-139) https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/fs-139-blossom-end-rot-tomatoes University of Wisconsin Horticulture Extension — Blossom End Rot https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/blossom-end-rot/ University of California Cooperative Extension, UC ANR "The Real Dirt" — Fighting Blossom End Rot https://ucanr.edu/blog/real-dirt/article/fighting-blossom-end-rot University of Connecticut Extension — Put an End to Blossom-End Rot: Water and Nutrient Management is Key https://homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu/2025/06/15/blossom-end-rot/ Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC — Gardening Myths: Fix Blossom End Rot with Calcium Sprays https://hgic.clemson.edu/gardening-myths-fix-blossom-end-rot-with-calcium-sprays/ North Dakota State University Extension — The Epsom Salt Myth https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/extension/extension-topics/gardening-and-horticulture/vegetables/epsom-salt-myth University of Minnesota Extension — Do Common Soil Health "Home Remedies" Work? (Coffee Grounds, Eggshells, Epsom Salts) https://extension.umn.edu/manage-soil-nutrients/coffee-grounds-eggshells-epsom-salts Peer-Reviewed Research Topcu, Y., Nambeesan, S. U., & van der Knaap, E. (2022). Blossom-end rot: a century-old problem in tomato (Solanum lycopersicum L.) and other vegetables. Molecular Horticulture, 2, 1. https://doi.org/10.1186/s43897-021-00022-9 Just Grow Something: https://justgrowsomething.com Gardening Courses: https://justgrowsomething.com/courses Just Grow Something Merch and Downloads: https://justgrowsomething.com/shop Just Grow Something Gardening Friends Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/share/g/18YgHveF5P/ Check out how you can become a patron on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/JustGrowSomething Feed my coffee habit: https://buymeacoffee.com/justgrowsomething Amazon storefront: https://www.amazon.com/shop/justgrowsomething Get 10% off and FREE shipping on my favorite raised planters at Planter Box Direct using code JUSTGROW10: https://planterboxdirect.com/?ref=593 Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

    Battling Blossom End Rot the Right Way - Ep. 309

  2. Jul 7

    Heat Stress vs Drought Stress in the Vegetable Garden - Ep. 308

    It's two o'clock on a July afternoon. You walk out to check the garden, and your squash leaves are drooping so low they're nearly touching the mulch. Your tomato plants look like they've given up on the whole season. If your first thought, every single time, is “I need to water right now,” hold on a second before you grab that hose. Because that dramatic afternoon collapse you're looking at likely has absolutely nothing to do with how much water is in your soil. So today on Just Grow Something we're covering three things: what's actually happening inside a plant's cells when the temperature spikes, the specific ways to tell heat stress wilting apart from drought stress wilting, and what heat stress does beyond the leaves, because your tomatoes and peppers and squash can look perfectly fine and still be failing to set fruit, and that's a heat problem too. Let's dig in. Join the Fall Garden Challenge: https://justgrowsomethingpodcast.com/fall References and Resources: Graci, S., & Barone, A. (2024). Tomato plant response to heat stress: a focus on candidate genes for yield-related traits. Frontiers in Plant Science, 14, 1245661. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpls.2023.1245661 Sellami, D., & Kooli, S. (2025). Physiological and growth responses of tomato plants to heat stress. Discover Plants. https://doi.org/10.1007/s44372-025-00462-3 University of Maryland Extension — Drought and Excessive Heat Stress  https://extension.umd.edu/resource/drought-and-excessive-heat-stress University of Maryland Extension — Pollination of Vegetable Crops in a Changing Climate https://extension.umd.edu/resource/pollination-vegetable-crops-changing-climate NC State Cooperative Extension, Beaufort County — What "Wilting" Really Means: Heat Stress vs. Water Needs https://beaufort.ces.ncsu.edu/news/what-wilting-really-means-heat-stress-vs-water-needs/ Oregon State University Extension — Heat Wave in the Garden: How to Identify and Prevent Heat Stress in Plants https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/em-9556-heat-wave-garden-how-identify-prevent-heat-stress-plants Oregon State University Extension — Why Vegetables Drop Blossoms https://extension.oregonstate.edu/news/why-vegetables-drop-blossoms Oregon State University Extension — Mother Nature May Need Help to Pollinate Squash and Cucumbers https://extension.oregonstate.edu/news/mother-nature-may-need-help-pollinate-squash-cucumbers Just Grow Something: https://justgrowsomething.com Gardening Courses: https://justgrowsomething.com/courses Just Grow Something Merch and Downloads: https://justgrowsomething.com/shop Just Grow Something Gardening Friends Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/share/g/18YgHveF5P/ Check out how you can become a patron on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/JustGrowSomething Feed my coffee habit: https://buymeacoffee.com/justgrowsomething Amazon storefront: https://www.amazon.com/shop/justgrowsomething Get 10% off and FREE shipping on my favorite raised planters at Planter Box Direct using code JUSTGROW10: https://planterboxdirect.com/?ref=593 Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

    Heat Stress vs Drought Stress in the Vegetable Garden - Ep. 308

  3. Jun 30

    How to Time Your Fall Brassicas - Ep. 307

    Fall gardening doesn't start in September. For the crops that take a long time to produce, your broccoli, your cauliflower, your cabbage, your Brussels sprouts, it starts right now in late June and early July. And if you've never had a productive fall brassica bed, it's almost certainly because you started too late and it took me a lot of years to master this. This episode is about fall gardening planning, and specifically about the crops that require you to be thinking ahead right now, in late June and into July, when literally nothing about summer conditions suggest that fall is coming. We’re talking about the timing, why it matters, how to calculate it for your specific first frost date, and exactly what to do if you're sitting here thinking you may have already missed the window — because you might not have, but we need to move quickly. Let’s dig in. Join my FREE fall garden email challenge! https://justgrowsomethingpodcast.com/fall Resources: How to Calculate Your Fall Brassica Dates Step 1: Find your average first frost date (garden.org/apps/frost-dates or your local extension service) Step 2: Take days to maturity for your chosen variety Step 3: Add 10–14 days for the short-day factor Step 4: Count backward from first frost — that is your transplant-out deadline Step 5: Count back another 4–6 weeks — that is your seed-starting deadline MU Extension — Vegetable Planting Calendar (G6201): Variety-specific fall planting dates for Missouri's three planting regions. https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6201 UMN Extension — Growing Broccoli: Seed-starting timing (early to late July for fall crop), variety selection, and fall head quality. https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-broccoli UMN Extension — Growing Broccoli: Seed-starting timing (early to late July for fall crop), variety selection, and fall head quality. https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-broccoli UMN Extension — Growing Brussels Sprouts: Start seeds in June indoors or direct, water deeply once weekly, harvest through fall frosts. https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-brussels-sprouts UMN Extension — Growing Cauliflower: Start seeds in July for fall crop; cool temperatures essential for quality curd formation. https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-cauliflower UMN Extension — Growing Cabbage: For fall crop, plant seed directly in garden in early July; cabbage takes 60–100 days. https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-cabbage UMD Extension — Planting Dates for Vegetable Crops (Transplant Timing): Short-day factor methodology for fall transplant timing. https://extension.umd.edu/sites/extension.umd.edu/files/2021-03/PlantingDatesforVegetableCropsinMaryland.pdf Just Grow Something: https://justgrowsomething.com Gardening Courses: https://justgrowsomething.com/courses Just Grow Something Merch and Downloads: https://justgrowsomething.com/shop Just Grow Something Gardening Friends Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/share/g/18YgHveF5P/ Check out how you can become a patron on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/JustGrowSomething Feed my coffee habit: https://buymeacoffee.com/justgrowsomething Amazon storefront: https://www.amazon.com/shop/justgrowsomething Get 10% off and FREE shipping on my favorite raised planters at Planter Box Direct using code JUSTGROW10: https://planterboxdirect.com/?ref=593 Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

    How to Time Your Fall Brassicas - Ep. 307

  4. Jun 23

    Mid-Season Fertilizing: How to Know What Your Vegetables Actually Need - Ep. 306

    It’s June, your tomatoes are climbing, your corn is waist-high, and the internet is full of fertilizing advice—most of it missing the most important variable: timing. In this episode, we dig into what your vegetables need right now at mid-season, why nitrogen timing is the thing most gardeners get wrong, how fruiting crops and leafy crops have completely different needs, and when fertilizing can actually hurt instead of help. We’ll cover how to read your plants for deficiency signs, how to side-dress correctly, and why the most common mid-season mistake isn’t under-fertilizing—it’s fertilizing at the wrong time with the wrong form. Grounded in university extension research and my own experience farming through Missouri summers, this one will give you a clear, crop-by-crop picture of what to do right now. Let’s dig in. Crop-by-Crop Quick Reference: Mid-Season Nitrogen Timing LEAFY CROPS (lettuce, kale, chard, spinach, collards, arugula, basil) When to side-dress: 3–4 weeks after transplanting or when 2–3 inches tall; repeat every 4–6 weeks for heavy-harvesting crops Goal: steady nitrogen supply throughout season Note: don’t exceed recommended rates—excess nitrogen increases pest/disease vulnerability COLE CROPS (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower) When to side-dress: approximately 30 days after transplanting, during active vegetative growth Hold off once head formation begins TOMATOES When to side-dress: when first fruits are approximately one-third grown (golf ball size) DO NOT apply nitrogen at transplant or during early fruit set—drives vegetative growth at expense of fruit Second application: 2 weeks after first ripe fruit; third: 4 weeks later Rate: 0.5 lb actual nitrogen per 100 feet of row per application PEPPERS When to side-dress: early vegetative growth before fruit set Pull back after fruit is setting SWEET CORN When to side-dress: when plants are approximately one-third grown (knee-high) Apply alongside rows, not into the whorl of leaves May benefit from a second application before tasseling CUCUMBERS / SQUASH / MELONS When to side-dress: after vines are well-established and fruit is setting regularly Not during early flowering window For squash with blossom drop only: do not add nitrogen—address pollination instead BEANS / PEAS (inoculated) Mid-season nitrogen side-dressing generally not needed if seeds were inoculated Extra nitrogen causes excessive leaf growth and reduced pod set If not inoculated: apply light nitrogen early in vegetative growth only Side-Dressing How-To Move mulch aside before applying; replace afterward Keep granular fertilizer 4–6 inches from plant stems to prevent burn Work granular into top 1–2 inches of soil Water in after application—nitrogen moves into the root zone with moisture Organic options: blood meal or alfalfa pellets (work in lightly; slower to show results); fish emulsion (liquid, faster uptake, more frequent application needed) Signs of Nutrient Deficiency Nitrogen: yellowing starting on oldest, lowest leaves; stunted or stalled growth Phosphorus: stunted growth; reddish-purple tint in leaf tissue (often triggered by cold soil, not low soil P) Potassium: browning at leaf edges, starting with older leaves Note: many of these symptoms overlap with stress from crowding, insufficient sun, compaction, waterlogged roots, or nematode damage—rule those out first Common Myths Addressed Myth: More fertilizer = more production. The research is clear: overapplied nitrogen causes excess vegetative growth at the expense of fruit, increases pest and disease vulnerability, and leaches into groundwater without benefiting plants. Myth: If plants look off, they need fertilizer. Nutrient deficiency symptoms look almost identical to symptoms of watering problems, compaction, pH issues, root damage, and pest pressure. Identify the actual cause before applying anything. Myth: Tomatoes need nitrogen all season long. Timing matters. Nitrogen during the early fruit-set window drives vegetative growth and reduces yields. Wait until fruit is sizing up before side-dressing. Myth: Beans and peas are heavy feeders like corn. Inoculated legumes fix their own nitrogen from the air. Additional nitrogen pushes leaf growth at the expense of pods. Resources Get on my newsletter list: https://justgrowsomething.com (scroll to the bottom) Soil test kit: https://amzn.to/4vqYMk1 University Extension Publications University of Minnesota Extension – Quick Guide to Fertilizing Plants Oregon State University Extension – Feed Your Vegetable Garden Midseason to Boost Growth and Yields Oregon State University Extension – Vegetable Gardening in Oregon (EC 871) University of Maryland Extension – Fertilizing Vegetable Gardens University of Missouri Extension – Growing Home Garden Tomatoes (G6461) University of Missouri Extension – Vegetable Gardening (MG 5) – Table 1: Recommended Nitrogen Side-Dressings University of Missouri Extension IPM – Side-Dressing: Mid-Season Boost for Hungry Plants Virginia Tech Extension – Fertilizing the Vegetable Garden (426-323) Mississippi State University Extension – Fertilizing Vegetable Gardens University of Nevada, Reno Extension – Fertilizing Your Vegetable Garden   Connect Just Grow Something: https://justgrowsomething.com Gardening Courses: https://justgrowsomething.com/courses Just Grow Something Merch and Downloads: https://justgrowsomething.com/shop Just Grow Something Gardening Friends Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/share/g/18YgHveF5P/ Check out how you can become a patron on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/JustGrowSomething Feed my coffee habit: https://buymeacoffee.com/justgrowsomething Amazon storefront: https://www.amazon.com/shop/justgrowsomething Get 10% off and FREE shipping on my favorite raised planters at Planter Box Direct using code JUSTGROW10: https://planterboxdirect.com/?ref=593 Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

    Mid-Season Fertilizing: How to Know What Your Vegetables Actually Need - Ep. 306

  5. Jun 16

    Early Blight Versus Late Blight in Tomatoes: Don't Get This One Wrong! - Ep. 305

    Every June, one of the most common questions that floods gardening groups, emails, and extension offices is some version of: “My tomato leaves are turning brown — do I have blight?” The confusion is completely understandable, because there are two diseases that get lumped under that word — and they are caused by completely different organisms, show up in different ways, and require completely different responses. Treating late blight like early blight — or vice versa — can mean the difference between saving your plants and losing your entire harvest. In this episode, horticulturist and market farmer Karin Velez breaks both diseases down in plain language: what they look like, where they show up on the plant, what conditions favor them, how fast they move, what happens if you ignore them, and exactly what to do when you find either one. Whether you’re seeing spots on your lowest leaves or a whole section of your garden that looks like it got hit by frost overnight, this episode will help you figure out what you’re looking at — and what to do next. Let’s dig in. References and Resources Captain Jack’s Copper Fungicide - https://amzn.to/43DKqAn Penn State Extension — Tomato Diseases and Disorders in the Home Garden: https://extension.psu.edu/tomato-diseases-and-disorders-in-the-home-garden Penn State Extension — Scouting and Identifying Tomato Diseases: https://extension.psu.edu/scouting-and-identifying-tomato-diseases Penn State Extension — Tomato-Potato Late Blight in the Home Garden: https://extension.psu.edu/tomato-potato-late-blight-in-the-home-garden University of Georgia Extension — Common Tomato Diseases in Georgia (Bulletin B1285): https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=B1285&title=common-tomato-diseases-in-georgia UGA Extension, Madison County — Tomato Troubles: https://site.extension.uga.edu/madison/2021/08/tomato-troubles/ University of Minnesota Extension — Late Blight of Tomato and Potato: https://extension.umn.edu/disease-management/late-blight Michigan State University Extension — Organic Management of Early Blight on Tomato (Hausbeck Lab): https://www.canr.msu.edu/hausbeck/Uploads/PDF/FS_Organic-Management-of-Early-Blight-on-Tomato.pdf UC ANR / UC IPM — Late Blight of Tomato (Phytophthora infestans): https://ipm.ucanr.edu/agriculture/tomato/late-blight/ Pacific Northwest Pest Management Handbooks — Tomato Late Blight: https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/host-disease/tomato-solanum-lycopersicum-late-blight Cornell University — Disease-Resistant Vegetable Varieties (late blight resistance): https://www.vegetables.cornell.edu/pest-management/disease-factsheets/disease-resistant-vegetable-varieties/ Midwest Vegetable Production Guide — current fungicide recommendations for late blight (referenced by Penn State and UMN Extension): https://mwveguide.org/ USAblight.org — national real-time late blight tracking and outbreak alerts (when it’s working?): http://usablight.org/ Quick-Reference: Early Blight vs. Late Blight at a Glance Pathogen type | Early Blight: true fungus (Alternaria solani)  |  Late Blight: water mold / oomycete (Phytophthora infestans) Ideal temperature | Early Blight: 68–77°F (warm)  |  Late Blight: 60–78°F (cool to mild) Where it starts | Early Blight: oldest/lowest leaves first  |  Late Blight: anywhere on the plant, no pattern Lesion appearance | Early Blight: dark bullseye with concentric rings, yellow halo  |  Late Blight: large irregular dark oily blotch, gray-green edge, no rings Underside of leaf | Early Blight: dark spores in lesion center  |  Late Blight: white downy/powdery growth at lesion margins in humidity Speed | Early Blight: slow and progressive, weeks to months  |  Late Blight: explosive, can kill plant in ~14 days Fruit symptoms | Early Blight: sunken dark spot at stem attachment  |  Late Blight: firm dark brown spot starting at fruit shoulders Overwinters as | Early Blight: debris/soil/seeds in warm climates  |  Late Blight: infected potato tubers, volunteer plants Fungicide type | Early Blight: copper, sulfur, standard fungicides  |  Late Blight: oomycete-specific only — NOT standard fungicides Response urgency | Early Blight: act promptly, manageable with cultural controls  |  Late Blight: emergency response, remove immediately, notify extension and neighbors Just Grow Something: https://justgrowsomething.com Gardening Courses: https://justgrowsomething.com/courses Just Grow Something Merch and Downloads: https://justgrowsomething.com/shop Just Grow Something Gardening Friends Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/share/g/18YgHveF5P/ Check out how you can become a patron on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/JustGrowSomething Feed my coffee habit: https://buymeacoffee.com/justgrowsomething Amazon storefront: https://www.amazon.com/shop/justgrowsomething Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

    Early Blight Versus Late Blight in Tomatoes: Don't Get This One Wrong! - Ep. 305

  6. Jun 9

    How to Manage Squash Vine Borer - Ep. 304

    Every year, gardeners across the country watch their squash plants collapse overnight and have absolutely no idea why until it’s too late. The culprit is the squash vine borer, and it is one of the most misunderstood pests in the home garden. In this episode, Karin Velez breaks down the full life cycle of the squash vine borer, including regional timing differences that explain why gardeners in Florida, Missouri, and New Hampshire are fighting very different battles. She covers the remedies that likely don’t work (no matter how many gardening blogs swear by them), the strategies that actually do, and how to build a prevention plan before you ever see a moth. Whether you’ve been battling these for years or just lost your first plant to a mystery wilt, this one’s for you. Let’s dig in. Quick-Reference: Squash Vine Borer Management at a Glance Most susceptible crops: zucchini, yellow summer squash, acorn squash, Hubbard squash, pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo) Less susceptible crops: butternut squash, cucumbers, melons, watermelon Diagnostic sign: frass (greenish-yellow sawdust) at the base of the stem near a small hole South: first flight May, 2 generations possible, adult activity May–October Mid-country (MO, KY, OH, IN, VA): first flight mid-June, peak June–July North (MN, WI, NH, PA, SD): first flight ~June 20, peak July 10–15, mostly finished by August 1 West Coast: rarely affected What works: pheromone traps for monitoring, floating row covers (on clean ground), planting date manipulation, variety selection, timed stem sprays (spinosad, Bt, pyrethroids before larvae enter), fall tillage, post-harvest sanitation, surgical larva removal if caught early What does not work once larvae are inside: all foliar insecticide applications Episode References Insect Netting: https://amzn.to/4vuYp7s University Extension Resources University of Kentucky Entomology — Squash Vine Borer (EF-314), Ric Bessin: https://entomology.ca.uky.edu/ef314 Ohio State University Extension — Squash Vine Borer Damage and Management: What to Look for and When to Act (ENT-0106): https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/ent-0106 Illinois Extension — Squash Vine Borer: https://extension.illinois.edu/insects/squash-vine-borer Illinois Extension — Managing Squash Vine Borer in the Garden (Good Growing blog): https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2022-07-15-managing-squash-vine-borer-garden Illinois Extension — Squash Vine Borer Has Arrived: https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/over-garden-fence/2024-08-20-squash-vine-borer-has-arrived UMass Amherst Extension — Squash Vine Borer (CAFE Vegetable Fact Sheet): https://ag.umass.edu/vegetable/fact-sheets/squash-vine-borer Penn State Extension — Squash Vine Borer: https://extension.psu.edu/squash-vine-borer University of New Hampshire Cooperative Extension — Managing Squash Vine Borer Problems in New Hampshire (Dr. Alan T. Eaton & George Hamilton): https://extension.unh.edu/resource/managing-squash-vine-borer-problems-new-hampshire-fact-sheet South Dakota State University Extension — Biology and Management of Squash Vine Borer in the Garden: https://extension.sdstate.edu/biology-and-management-squash-vine-borer-garden University of Minnesota Extension — Squash Vine Borers: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/squash-vine-borers University of Wisconsin-Madison Division of Extension — Squash Vine Borer: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/squash-vine-borer-melittia-curcurbitae/ eOrganic (USDA) — Biology and Management of Squash Vine Borer in Organic Farming Systems: https://eorganic.org/node/5300 ATTRA Sustainable Agriculture — Squash Bug and Squash Vine Borer: Organic Controls: https://attra.ncat.org/publication/Squash-Bug-and-Squash-Vine-Borer-Organic-Controls/ Peer-Reviewed Research Middleton, E. (2018). Biology and Management of Squash Vine Borer (Lepidoptera: Sesiidae). Journal of Integrated Pest Management, 9(1), 22. https://academic.oup.com/jipm/article/9/1/22/5061838 Canhilal, R., & Carner, G.R. (2007). Bacillus thuringiensis as a pest management tool for control of the squash vine borer. Journal of Plant Diseases and Protection, 114, 26–29. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/BF03356200 Canhilal, R., Carner, G.R., Griffin, R.P., Jackson, D.M., & Alvarez, D.R. (2006). Life history of the squash vine borer, Melittia cucurbitae, in South Carolina. The Journal of Agricultural and Urban Entomology, 23, 1–7. http://scentsoc.org/Volumes/JAUE/v23/1.pdf Just Grow Something: https://justgrowsomething.com Gardening Courses: https://justgrowsomething.com/courses Just Grow Something Merch and Downloads: https://justgrowsomething.com/shop Just Grow Something Gardening Friends Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/share/g/18YgHveF5P/ Check out how you can become a patron on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/JustGrowSomething Feed my coffee habit: https://buymeacoffee.com/justgrowsomething Amazon storefront: https://www.amazon.com/shop/justgrowsomething Get 10% off and FREE shipping on my favorite raised planters at Planter Box Direct using code JUSTGROW10: https://planterboxdirect.com/?ref=593 Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

    How to Manage Squash Vine Borer - Ep. 304

  7. Jun 2

    How to Identify and Manage Perennial Weeds (Without the Viral Sprays) - Ep. 303

    Perennial weeds are in a different category than annuals. They don’t just re-seed, they regrow from the ground up, season after season, from root systems that can run three feet deep or spread fifteen feet sideways underground. In this episode, we’re tackling them systematically. First, a regional tour of the most aggressive perennial weeds in the U.S. - what they look like, how they spread, and why they’re so hard to beat. Then, we work on management using Integrated Pest Management principles, starting with prevention and exclusion, moving through cultural and mechanical controls, and knowing when chemical options are appropriate. Finally, we close with a hard look at the homemade internet sprays that are all over social media - and why some of them could do more damage to your soil than the weeds ever would. Let's dig in. References: Montana State University Extension – Field Bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis) MontGuide MT201903AG https://apps.msuextension.org/montguide/guide.html?sku=MT201903AG University of Nevada, Reno Extension – Managing Field Bindweed (Publication 4834) https://extension.unr.edu/publication.aspx?PubID=4834 University of Minnesota Extension – Perennial Weeds Identification Guide https://extension.umn.edu/weed-identification/perennial-weeds University of Minnesota Extension – Canada Thistle Identification https://extension.umn.edu/identify-invasive-species/canada-thistle University of Maryland Extension – Canada Thistle https://extension.umd.edu/resource/canada-thistle Colorado State University Extension – Canada Thistle https://extension.colostate.edu/resource/canada-thistle/ SARE (Sustainable Agriculture Research & Education) – Canada Thistle: Manage Weeds on Your Farm https://www.sare.org/publications/manage-weeds-on-your-farm/canada-thistle/ NC State Extension Plant Toolbox – Sorghum halepense (Johnsongrass) https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/sorghum-halepense/ University of Georgia Extension – Johnsongrass Control in Pastures, Roadsides, and Noncropland Areas https://fieldreport.caes.uga.edu/?p=62642 Schantz, M.C. (2025). Johnsongrass (Sorghum halepense): a review of its invasion, management, and spread in the changing climate of the Southern Great Plains. Weed Science, 73(e31), 1–7. https://doi.org/10.1017/wsc.2025.7 University of Maryland Extension – Poison Hemlock Identification and Management https://extension.umd.edu/resource/poison-hemlock-identification-and-management Montana State University Extension – Poison Hemlock MontGuide MT200013AG https://apps.msuextension.org/montguide/guide.html?sku=MT200013AG Purdue Extension – Poison Hemlock: Invasive Plant Series (FNR-437-W) https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/fnr/fnr-437-w.pdf Mississippi State University Extension – Kudzu https://extension.msstate.edu/publications/kudzu Mississippi State University Extension – Torpedograss (Panicum repens) https://extension.msstate.edu/publications/torpedograss UC IPM – Nutsedge (Yellow and Purple) https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/WEEDS/nutsedge.html West Virginia University Extension – Yellow Nutsedge (Cyperus esculentus) https://extension.wvu.edu/lawn-gardening-pests/weeds/yellow-nutsedge Penn State Extension – Japanese and Giant Knotweed https://extension.psu.edu/japanese-and-giant-knotweed University of Wisconsin Extension – Perennial Knotweed Identification (Mark Renz, Extension Weed Scientist) https://renzweedscience.cals.wisc.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/177/2025/05/Perennial-knotweed-identification.pdf Oregon State University Extension – Solve Pest Problems: Grasses & Grass-Like Pacific Northwest Weeds https://solvepestproblems.oregonstate.edu/weeds/grass-like Washington State University – Perennial Weed Control in the Pacific Northwest (PNW Pest Management Handbooks) https://pnwhandbooks.org/weed/agronomic/corn/field-silage-seed/perennial-weed-control-quackgrass-field-bindweed-canada-thistle-johnsongrass-etc-0 Colorado State University Extension – Weed Management (IPM) https://extension.colostate.edu/resource/weed-management/ NC State Extension – Extension Gardener Handbook, Chapter 8: Integrated Pest Management https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/extension-gardener-handbook/8-integrated-pest-management-ipm Washington State University – Weed Management (Pesticide Resources and Education Program) https://pep.wsu.edu/weedmanagement/ UC IPM – Soil Solarization for Gardens and Landscapes https://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/soil-solarization-for-gardens-landscapes/ University of Vermont Extension – Tarping, Solarization and Occultation https://www.uvm.edu/extension/news/tarping-solarization-and-occultation UConn Extension – Homemade Pesticide Issues: Understanding the Science (EXT014, Updated 2024) https://extension.uconn.edu/publication/homemade-pesticides/ Ask Extension (Cooperative Extension National Q&A Service) – Vinegar, Salt, and Dawn Weed Killer https://ask.extension.org/kb/faq.php?id=888177 University of Florida IFAS Extension – Chapter 4: Integrated Pest Management (Weed Management Categories) https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/CV298 Resources: Just Grow Something: https://justgrowsomething.com Gardening Courses: https://justgrowsomething.com/courses Just Grow Something Merch and Downloads: https://justgrowsomething.com/shop Just Grow Something Gardening Friends Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/share/g/18YgHveF5P/ Check out how you can become a patron on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/JustGrowSomething Feed my coffee habit: https://buymeacoffee.com/justgrowsomething Amazon storefront: https://www.amazon.com/shop/justgrowsomething Get 10% off and FREE shipping on my favorite raised planters at Planter Box Direct using code JUSTGROW10: https://planterboxdirect.com/?ref=593 Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

    How to Identify and Manage Perennial Weeds (Without the Viral Sprays) - Ep. 303

  8. May 26

    Mulch Matchmaking: Choosing the Right Mulch for Your Vegetable Garden - Ep. 302

    Mulch is one of the highest-return investments you can make in your vegetable garden and yet most gardeners are using whatever happens to be available rather than whatever would actually work best for their situation. In this episode, we dig into the full lineup of organic mulches—straw, shredded leaves, wood chips, pine needles, grass clippings, and compost—as well as a shorter look at inorganic options like landscape fabric and black plastic. For each type, you’ll learn how well it suppresses annual, perennial, and invasive weeds, how it handles moisture retention and heavy rainfall, how to apply it correctly, and what drawbacks to watch for in terms of pests, availability, and cost. The bottom line: any mulch is better than bare soil. But the right mulch for your garden depends on your weed pressure, your climate, your crops, and your situation—and by the end of this episode, you’ll know exactly how to make that call. Let’s dig in! Mulch Quick Reference Best for annual weed suppression: Straw, wood chips, black plastic Best for moisture retention: Wood chips, straw, compost Best for slopes and heavy rain areas: Pine needles, wood chips Best for soil building: Compost, shredded leaves Best free options: Shredded leaves, grass clippings (herbicide-free), arborist chips Best for soil warming: Black plastic Avoid in vegetable gardens long-term: Landscape fabric References: Warnall School of Forestry and Natural Resources - Black Walnut Allelopathy: Tree Chemical Warfare: openscholar.uga.edu/record/22964/files/Walnut Allelopathy 11-10.pdf Horticultural Sciences Department, University of Florida, Gainesville - Evaluation of Allelopathic Potential of Wood Chips for Weed Suppression in Horticultural Production Systems: ashs.org/hort/hort/published/rest/pdf-watermark/v1/journals/hortsci/40/3/article-p711.pdf/watermark-pdf/ University of Minnesota Extension — Mulching in the Home Garden: extension.umn.edu Penn State Extension — Mulches for the Home Landscape: extension.psu.edu NC State Extension Gardener Handbook — Mulching chapter: content.ces.ncsu.edu University of Illinois Extension — Wood Chip Mulch: Landscape Boon or Bane: extension.illinois.edu Cornell Cooperative Extension — Grass Clippings as Mulch: gardening.cornell.edu University of Tennessee Extension — Using Leaves as Mulch and Compost: extension.tennessee.edu Iowa State University Extension — Plastic Mulch in the Vegetable Garden: yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu Michigan State University Extension — Landscape Fabric: Is It Really Worth It: canr.msu.edu ChipDrop (free arborist chips): getchipdrop.com Resources: Just Grow Something: https://justgrowsomething.com Gardening Courses: https://justgrowsomething.com/courses Just Grow Something Merch and Downloads: https://justgrowsomething.com/shop Just Grow Something Gardening Friends Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/share/g/18YgHveF5P/ Check out how you can become a patron on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/JustGrowSomething Feed my coffee habit: https://buymeacoffee.com/justgrowsomething Amazon storefront: https://www.amazon.com/shop/justgrowsomething Get 10% off and FREE shipping on my favorite raised planters at Planter Box Direct using code JUSTGROW10: https://planterboxdirect.com/?ref=593 Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

    Mulch Matchmaking: Choosing the Right Mulch for Your Vegetable Garden - Ep. 302
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About

Grow a better vegetable garden, whether you're a seasoned gardener or have never grown a thing in your life. Karin helps home gardeners learn to grow their own food using evidence-based techniques and research. She talks all about specific plants, pests, diseases, soil and plant health, mulch, garden planning, and more. It's not just the "how" but also the "why" that makes us better. The goal? For everyone to know how to grow their own food no matter what sized space they have or their experience level. Tune in each week to plan, learn, and grow with your friend in the garden, Karin Velez.

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