Home In Progress

Dan Hansen/RepcoLite Paints
  • 4.7 (14)
  • Home & Garden
  • Updated Weekly

Welcome to Home in Progress—the weekly show from RepcoLite Paints where we dig into the projects and little fixes that make home life better. Paint colors, design tricks, flooring, plumbing, yard work—you name it. If it happens at home, we’ll talk about it. Think of it as helpful advice with a sense of humor, always leaving you with something useful and a smile.

  1. 3d ago

    Is Your Deck Safe? A Simple Inspection Guide -- Plus Basement Efflorescence and Paint Colors for West-Facing Rooms

    Original Air Date: August 16, 2025 Re-Air Date: August 15, 2026 Episode Number: 471 Episode SummaryFour topics this week. Dan opens with a segment on AI, the trades, and why professional painters are on the safe list of jobs that technology won't replace. Then a deck safety segment covering what actually causes collapses and a quick inspection checklist you can run through today. After that, a breakdown of efflorescence -- the white powdery stuff on basement walls that looks like mold but isn't -- including what causes it, why painting over it doesn't work, and how to actually fix it. The episode closes out a multi-week series on room exposures with a full guide to choosing paint colors for west-facing rooms, including eight to nine specific Benjamin Moore recommendations. Timestamps[00:00] -- Welcome and Preview[00:50] -- AI and the Trades[03:07] -- Why Painting Matters[07:11] -- Deck Safety Basics[10:03] -- Deck Failure Causes[14:08] -- Quick Deck Inspection[18:41] -- Basement White Powder[19:33] -- Efflorescence Explained[21:19] -- Fix Moisture and Repaint[24:47] -- West-Facing Color Guide[34:05] -- Best Colors and Samples[38:06] -- Wrap Up AI and the Trades [00:50]Dan opens with a Microsoft study ranking the top 40 jobs most at risk from AI and the top 40 considered safest. The at-risk list included customer service reps, writers, paralegals, web developers, and some programming roles. The safe list: caregivers, cleaners, roofers, pipe fitters, plumbers, plasterers -- and right in the middle of the mix, professional painters. The common thread across all the safe jobs is that they require hands-on work, real skill, human judgment, and a physical presence on site. No matter how capable the technology gets, it can't paint a house. Dan talks about his son Andrew, now in his second summer on a painting crew. He came in with no experience. Within a few weeks he was confidently working off extension ladders. By the end of that first summer he could handle almost anything thrown at him. What struck Dan wasn't just the skill -- it was something Andrew said about how satisfying it is to finish a job and stand back and see the actual before and after. A faded house that looks good again. That's different from the kind of satisfaction Dan gets at work, where some days it feels like moving digital ideas from one folder to another. The broader point: trades are going to keep requiring real people. Dan thinks the human touch is only going to become more valuable as more of the world goes digital. AI might help a plumber or electrician diagnose a complex issue, but somebody still has to show up and do the work. What Causes Deck Collapses [10:03]Deck collapses are genuinely rare -- the US Consumer Product Safety Commission estimates around 6,000 injuries per year tied to deck, porch, stair, and balcony failures. But because decks are elevated, when something does give way, injuries are almost guaranteed. One of the most well-known incidents was a 2003 Chicago collapse where a third-story wooden deck gave way under a group of people. The weight brought two lower decks down with it. Thirteen people died and 57 were injured. The most common failure point is the ledger board -- the board that connects the deck directly to the house. If flashing wasn't installed correctly or has failed over time, water gets behind the ledger and starts rotting the rim joist it's fastened to. Once the rim joist softens, the bolts anchoring the ledger can pull free. The ledger can look completely solid from the outside while the wood it's bolted into is already compromised. In older decks -- especially those built before building codes were updated in the early 2000s following the Chicago collapse -- the ledger board may have been fastened with plain nails rather than bolts or lag screws. Over time those nails can loosen or rust, leaving a deck looking solid while hiding a serious structural weakness. Other common failure points: Railings that aren't fastened into proper framing -- these tend to fail when someone leans their full weight against themPosts that are buried directly in soil rather than resting on concrete footings, where they can rot from below without showing any visible signMetal connectors -- joist hangers, bolts, screws -- that are rusted, missing, or weren't installed correctly A deck that looks perfectly fine on the surface can be hiding significant problems underneath all of these. Quick Deck Inspection Checklist [14:08]This takes 10 to 15 minutes and is worth doing today if you haven't done it recently. Ideally it's an annual spring task, but any time works. Walk the deck surface. Pay attention to how it feels underfoot. Do boards bounce or feel springy? Are any warped, uneven, or soft? Test the railing. Give it a firm push -- don't lean your full weight on it as the test, but put enough pressure to check whether it's solid. Wobbling or creaking means it needs attention. Check the ledger board. If you can get safely underneath the deck, look where it connects to the house. Is the flashing intact? Are there signs of rot, water damage, or staining on the house wall or the ledger itself? And look at how it's attached -- if you see only nails and no bolts or lag screws, that connection should be reinforced. Probe suspicious wood. A screwdriver or small awl pressed into any wood that looks questionable -- joists, posts, the ledger -- will tell you a lot. If the tip sinks in a quarter inch or more with light pressure, that indicates rot and warrants further investigation. Check the posts. Make sure they're sitting on concrete footings, not buried directly in soil. Look for cracking, shifting, or movement at the base. Inspect the hardware. Look for rusted or missing screws, nails, or joist hangers. Anything corroded should be tightened or replaced with corrosion-resistant hardware. If the deck is over 15 to 20 years old, or was built before the 2003 code updates, or if anything in the inspection looks questionable, bring in a licensed contractor for a closer look. And if the deck just needs a refresh -- cleaning and a coat of wood protector -- stop into any RepcoLite and they'll walk you through the right products. Efflorescence: The White Powder on Your Basement Walls [19:33]If you've noticed white chalky streaks or fuzzy white buildup on your basement's concrete block or poured concrete walls, it probably startled you a bit. It looks like something is growing. It's not mold. It's efflorescence, and it's actually pretty common. What it is. Efflorescence is salt deposits forming on masonry surfaces. Water moves through the wall, picks up mineral salts from the concrete or block as it travels, and when it reaches the surface and evaporates, it leaves those salts behind. Sometimes it's a light dusting. Other times it's streaks or crusty fuzzy buildup that looks pretty alarming. What causes it. Moisture. If you have efflorescence, there is a moisture issue somewhere. It could be coming from outside -- poor drainage, clogged gutters, improper grading around the foundation. It could be coming from inside -- vapor movement through the space. Wherever it's coming from, the moisture has to be addressed or the efflorescence will keep coming back. Dan's own situation: his house had no gutters, so rainwater poured straight off the roof at the foundation. Once he installed gutters, the moisture problem went away and the efflorescence stopped. How to clean it. A stiff brush and plain water handles mild cases. For stubborn buildup, a diluted solution of white vinegar or a masonry cleaner specifically formulated for efflorescence will get it off. Follow the label directions and wear protective gear -- some of these cleaners are acidic. The critical mistake to avoid. Cleaning is only treating the symptom. If you paint over active efflorescence without fixing the moisture source, the moisture and salt will continue working toward the surface and will bring the paint with them. Blistering, peeling, paint failure. Dan learned this firsthand -- he painted over it the first time thinking it might solve things. It did not. He had to deal with peeling paint on top of the original problem. The right sequence. Fix the moisture source first. Then clean the efflorescence completely. Then let everything dry thoroughly. Then repaint. For bare, never-painted concrete or block walls: WaterBlock from Insl-X is worth knowing about. It's a water-blocking product that, when applied to unpainted masonry under the right conditions, can prevent a certain level of moisture from working through the wall. Stop into RepcoLite and ask about it -- there are specific application conditions that have to be met for it to work correctly. Choosing Paint Colors for West-Facing Rooms [24:47]This is the final installment of a series on how room orientation affects paint color. Previous episodes covered north-facing, south-facing, and east-facing rooms. The challenge with west-facing rooms. They're cool, shaded, and a little flat in the morning -- the sun is rising on the opposite side of the house. By mid-afternoon and into early evening, dramatic warm golden light pours in, carrying strong amber and orange undertones. That subtle beige you loved at noon might look...

  2. Aug 6

    Old House, Real Problems: Pet Odors, Pest Damage, and Learning to Paint for the First Time

    Original Air Date: 08/08/26 Episode Number: 471 Episode SummaryDan's son Caleb stopped in to pick up primer and ended up on the radio. He bought his first house -- a 1901-era fixer-upper -- and has spent the past several months dealing with cat smells in a crawl space, a squirrel that chewed through wiring, a dead possum under the floorboards, and the humbling experience of learning to cut in a straight line for the first time. The back half of the conversation covers paint choices, color coverage, the trades versus college, and what it's actually like to be six years into a career as an electrician. Timestamps[00:00] -- Meet Caleb the Guest[01:33] -- First Walkthrough Shock[03:04] -- Cat Smells and the Crawl Space[04:21] -- Enzyme Cleaner Fiasco[07:02] -- Sealing Odor Hotspots[09:26] -- Squirrel in the Ceiling[12:54] -- Dead Possum Discovery[15:22] -- First Time Painting Lessons[19:27] -- Color Choices and Coverage[22:13] -- Choosing the Wall Color[23:06] -- One Coat vs. Two[23:47] -- Ceiling Paint Lessons[25:50] -- Vanity Makeover Plan[27:16] -- DIY Confidence Tips[30:27] -- Trades Talk Break[31:09] -- Back in Studio[31:36] -- Living With Messes[34:05] -- Skipping College[37:24] -- Why Trades Work[40:39] -- Trade Life Humor[42:27] -- Wrap Up The House [01:33]Built somewhere around 1901 -- "early 1901" on the listing, which Caleb says basically means they don't really know. Good news on move-in day: the electrical had already been updated, which mattered a lot to an electrician who knew exactly what that job would have cost him. The first thing visible when you walked through the door was a dining room painted in the brightest Barbie pink either of them had ever seen. Online listing photos had made it look like a warm sunset. In person it looked like Pepto-Bismol. That was the cosmetic problem. The real problem was the smell. Cat Smells and the Crawl Space [03:04]Three confirmed cats, possibly four, had been using the dirt crawl space as a litter box for three or four years. The crawl space starts at about two feet of clearance and drops to six to eight inches near the outer walls -- full belly-crawl territory. Caleb suited up with a respirator, goggles, a painter's suit, and a child's garden rake with four metal prongs that he says will remain in a place of honor in the basement indefinitely. It goes with him before the fishing poles if there's ever a fire. He went through the crawl space with enzymatic cleaner -- but the first jug he bought was formulated for outdoor use, and it didn't make a dent on the smell. He went back to the store, found a cat-specific enzymatic formula, and ended up buying about eight small spray bottles to fill a pressurized sprayer. That worked. A dehumidifier finished the job on the residual musty smell -- now when you open the basement door, it just smells like a normal old stone basement. On enzymatic cleaners: Use a formula specifically designed for the type of odor you're dealing with. Outdoor or general-purpose formulas may not be strong enough for concentrated pet waste. Cat-specific formulas are made for exactly this situation. On crawl space odors: Garden lime thrown down on a dirt crawl space can help neutralize pH and absorb lingering smells after the source is removed. Sealing Odor Hotspots [07:02]There was a small alcove near the stairs where foam gym flooring had soaked up years of cat urine. Caleb pulled it up and needed to seal the subfloor underneath before putting anything new down. The right product for this kind of situation is a shellac-based primer like BIN -- it seals odors and dries fast. Dan didn't have any shellac on hand, but he did have an old can of oil-based polyurethane that tested out fine, and for a clear coat application it worked well. The key advantage of a clear coat over a pigmented primer in odor situations: pigment can leave microscopic paths for odor to work through. A clear film seals more completely. Caleb put new subfloor down over the top and sealed that too. Squirrel in the Ceiling [09:26]The home inspection had flagged a squirrel living above the breezeway entry. The smell coming out of that space was serious enough that Dan wasn't sure it would ever clear up. Caleb got the squirrel out, sealed the entry point, and eventually pulled down the ceiling to assess the damage -- and found something more significant than anyone expected. The squirrel had chewed through the outer jacket on two sets of wires, exposing bare copper hot, neutral, and ground conductors. There was visible charring around the wiring. The breaker had tripped on one of Dan's early walkthroughs; at the time nobody knew why. The wiring had apparently been in this condition long enough that it's surprising no fire resulted. Caleb rewired the affected circuits and closed everything up properly. Point worth keeping: if animals get into a wall or ceiling space and stay there, wiring damage is a real possibility. It's not just a smell and mess problem. If you know or suspect animals have been living in a structural space, the wiring in that area is worth checking before you close it back up. Dead Possum Under the Floor [12:54]After the squirrel situation was resolved, the entry still smelled. As the weather warmed up, it got worse. Caleb pulled up a damaged section of subfloor near the breezeway door, expecting to find the water damage he'd spotted -- and found a dead, decomposing possum that had apparently gotten in through the same entry point as the squirrel and not gotten back out. He called his best friend, who arrived with a square shovel and leather gloves. The possum got a burial in the backyard. The subfloor was treated with enzymatic cleaner, the entry point sealed, and the floor rebuilt. Dan's contribution to the discovery call: asking whether Caleb was sure it was dead, and suggesting he try touching its eye to confirm. Caleb reported there was no eye. Dan agreed that was probably a reliable indicator. First Time Painting [15:22]Caleb had essentially never painted before -- Dan had handed him a brush with no paint on it as a kid and sent him into another room. This house was his real introduction. The biggest struggle was cutting in at the ceiling line without tape. He and his brother Andrew started by eye on the first room and the difference in their speed was immediate and obvious -- Andrew was moving at several times Caleb's pace, and Caleb's edges were rough. The key things Caleb took away from the experience: A good brush matters more than most people realize going in. People often reach for tiny brushes thinking more control, but a quality full-size brush is easier to work with, not harder. Practice builds speed and confidence faster than expected -- Andrew went from nervous to confident within a month of his first exterior painting summer. And the work itself is harder than it looks when someone skilled does it in front of you. Andrew ended up painting most of the house -- the kitchen, dining room, living room, and upstairs. Caleb handled a fair amount of the cutting in and ceiling work. Color Choices and Coverage [19:27]Caleb's fiancée Melanie handled all the interior color selections, which Caleb describes as a great decision. Dan had expected conservative colors based on Caleb's personality and was surprised to get a list of deep, saturated choices -- a near-teal green, dark forest tones, rich colors throughout. His instinct was that deep colors would require multiple coats to cover the lighter existing walls. They used RepcoLite Optima, and the coverage surprised Dan enough that he brought it up on air. Deep colors don't naturally hide better just because they have more pigment -- the colorant system and the base paint matter. Optima's combination of formula and colorant system delivered coverage close to what you'd hope for after one coat, and two coats finished the job cleanly. The favorite room is the living room, painted in Yorktown Green -- a deep blue-green Benjamin Moore color that reads almost like a rich teal. They had originally planned a different color and switched at the last minute. It turned out to be everyone's favorite. One Coat vs. Two [23:06]Even when one coat coverage looks surprisingly good -- and in this case it did -- two coats is always the right call. The second coat evens out color uniformity, improves sheen consistency, eliminates lap marks and differences between brushed and rolled areas, and builds the film thickness the paint was designed to have. Durability depends on having enough coating on the surface. Ceiling Paint Lesson [23:47]Caleb chose a creamy, slightly warm off-white for the ceilings rather than straight white. Dan went with bright white on his own ceiling at home and regrets it -- it reads as plasticky and a little harsh compared to a softer white. The warmer ceiling tone makes the rooms feel finished rather than clinical. Dan says he's living with it but won't make that choice again. Painting angled ceilings with a hip roof is harder than flat ceilings. The angles create back strain and make it difficult to track where you've been. On flat ceilings, working in a consistent grid pattern and watching for the shine of wet paint to see where you've covered is the practical method. Vanity Project and Ebonizing [25:50]Caleb is in the store today to pick up primer for a bathroom vanity he's painting. He had tried ebonizing the wood first -- a technique where you soak steel wool in vinegar for

  3. Jul 30

    Cleaning Moss and Lichen Off Your Roof (Without Wrecking It) -- Plus a Plain-English Guide to Urethane

    Original Air Date: 8/1/2026 Episode Number: 470 Episode SummaryThree topics this week. Dan opens with a paint science segment answering a listener question about urethane and enamel -- two words that appear constantly on paint labels and mean different things than most people assume. Then a full two-segment deep dive on moss and lichen: first, how to safely remove them from different types of siding, and then a step-by-step walkthrough of how Dan cleaned his own roof, what products he used, and what the warnings are. He closes with a quick listener question about painting over old glossy trim in a pre-1978 home. Timestamps[00:00] -- Show Intro and Promises[02:28] -- Paint Science: Urethane vs. Enamel[07:38] -- Choosing the Right Paint[09:56] -- Moss and Lichen Overview[10:35] -- Siding Segment Setup[11:06] -- What Moss and Lichen Are[12:43] -- Cleaning Brick and Masonry[15:09] -- Cleaning Wood Safely[16:56] -- Vinyl, Stucco, and Pressure Tips[18:27] -- Protecting Plants[19:22] -- Roof Segment Begins[20:02] -- Why Remove Roof Growth[20:14] -- Roof Damage Explained[21:52] -- Dan's Roof Wake-Up Call[23:48] -- Kill It, Don't Scrape It[24:12] -- Hire Out or DIY?[25:03] -- Best Cleaners Compared[29:20] -- Prep and Protect Plants[30:53] -- Rinse, Brush, and Apply[33:58] -- Results and Safety Warnings[36:41] -- Listener Q: Glossy Trim[37:57] -- Lead, Adhesion, and Primer[39:40] -- Wrap Up Urethane vs. Enamel: A Plain-English Explanation [02:28]A listener wrote in puzzled by the word urethane showing up everywhere -- waterborne urethanes, urethane-modified acrylics, polyurethanes -- and wanted to know whether it means something specific or just marketing. He also asked which is more durable, urethane or enamel, and which he should be reaching for. The short answer: urethane and enamel are not competing terms. They describe different things entirely. Paint basics. Every can contains pigment (color and hiding), liquid (what lets you apply it), and resin -- the binder. As paint dries and the liquid leaves, the resin and pigment form the paint film. The resin has enormous influence over how the finished coating behaves: hardness, flexibility, adhesion, resistance to moisture, cleaning, and abrasion. What urethane means. Urethane isn't an extra scoop of durability added to the can. It's a type of chemical connection that can be built into the resin structure itself. When a resin contains many of those connections, it's called a polyurethane. That chemistry is associated with toughness, abrasion resistance, and resistance to cleaners -- which is why you see the word on products for cabinets, doors, railings, and floors. What enamel means. Traditionally, enamel meant an oil-based product with a hard, smooth, glossy finish -- the go-to for doors, trim, and metal. Today it's used more broadly. You can buy acrylic enamels, waterborne enamels, and urethane enamels. An enamel can absolutely use urethane chemistry. They're not opposites. The analogy. Asking which is more durable, a urethane or an enamel, is like asking whether a pickup truck is better than a diesel engine. One describes the vehicle type. The other describes the technology inside. You can have a diesel pickup, just like you can have a urethane enamel. The practical takeaway. For an ordinary bedroom wall, don't hunt for urethane -- just get good washability and the right sheen. For cabinets, doors, or railings, an enamel built for those surfaces makes sense, and it may well use urethane chemistry. For a wood floor, get a polyurethane specifically designed for foot traffic. For exterior siding, hardness isn't even the main priority -- flexibility, adhesion, and weather resistance matter more. The product's intended use matters more than the words on the label. Stop into any RepcoLite, tell them what you're painting and what kind of abuse it'll take, and they'll sort it out. Moss vs. Lichen: What You're Actually Looking At [11:06]Before cleaning anything, it helps to know what you're dealing with, because moss and lichen behave differently from the algae and mildew covered last week -- and they have to be handled differently as a result. Moss is the green fuzzy stuff -- little soft pillows of growth, kinda charming, definitely not good for your house or roof. It grips whatever it's growing on and holds moisture against the surface. Lichen is stranger and tougher. It looks almost painted or glued on -- flat, crusty patches or small leafy, ruffled growths. It can be gray-green, orange, chalky white. Lichen is actually two organisms living together: a fungus that builds the structure and grips the surface, and an algae that makes the food. Together they can live almost anywhere and attach with a grip that's very hard to break. That's the core reason they need their own conversation -- algae and mildew are essentially films sitting on the surface. Moss and lichen are anchored into the surface, into the pores of brick, the grain of wood, down into mortar. Removing them incorrectly can cause more damage than leaving them. Cleaning Moss and Lichen Off Siding [12:43]Brick and masonry. Gently knock off the thickest mounded moss first -- but gently is the word. Plastic scraper, wooden edge, or a stiff-but-not-metal brush. No wire brushes on brick, especially older or softer brick. Nothing mounted on a power tool. Working through the harder outer face of the brick exposes the softer material underneath, which holds moisture longer and becomes even more vulnerable to freeze-thaw damage. You can create next year's problem while cleaning up this year's. After removing loose material, treat remaining moss and lichen with a cleaner labeled for both the growth type and the surface. Wet & Forget is a popular spray-and-leave option -- apply it, leave it alone, and rain carries away the dead material over weeks or months. Make sure whatever you use is designed to kill moss and lichen, not just clean the surface. Wood. Be careful with straight chlorine bleach on bare or weathered wood -- it breaks down lignin, the natural binder in the wood fibers, and can leave cedar blotchy and damaged in ways that don't reverse. Sodium percarbonate (oxygenated bleach -- essentially OxiClean) is gentler on wood and on nearby plants. Soft brush, go with the grain, low pressure, no wire brush. Vinyl and aluminum. More forgiving -- growth doesn't anchor as deep on non-porous surfaces. Soft nylon brush or cloth with a cleaner labeled for that siding type, let it sit, gentle scrub, rinse. Don't spray upward under the laps. Fiber cement. Check the manufacturer's guidance. Keep it gentle and low pressure. Stucco and EIFS. Porous and on the brittle side -- soft wash, right cleaner, low pressure. Older synthetic stucco (EIFS) is especially risky; aggressive washing can force water behind cracks and joints. If the surface is already cracked or failing, call a professional. Plants. Wet down all landscaping before starting. Cover sensitive plants with light plastic, but get it off quickly -- they'll cook under it. Rinse everything again when you're done. Why You Can't Leave Roof Moss and Lichen Alone [20:02]Moss growing thicker around the edges of shingles interferes with drainage and can cause shingles to lift or deteriorate -- creating openings for water to get in. That alone is a good enough reason to deal with it. Lichen is worse on a roof than on siding because it attaches directly to the protective granules on the shingles and can cause irreversible damage as it grips and eventually pulls them loose. There's also a curb appeal issue: moss and lichen-covered roofs read as neglected or failing, whether or not that's actually true. Dan put off dealing with his own roof growth for a couple of years, telling himself it wasn't a big deal. A roofer from Sheriff Goslin Roofing -- who came out to assess the roof's lifespan -- pointed out that the moss and lichen were actively taking years off the roof by pulling granules and giving moisture more places to work. That's what finally prompted action. Hire Out or DIY? [24:12]Before getting into the process, Dan makes the case for hiring it out -- because for a lot of people, that's the right answer. There are companies that specialize in roof and exterior cleaning. If the roof is steep, high, difficult to access, or if heights aren't your thing, hiring a professional is absolutely the right call. A fall is a lot worse than a moss problem. If you're still planning to do it yourself, read on. Cleaner Options for Moss and Lichen on Roofs [25:03]Wet & Forget. Apply per label directions and leave it. The treatment kills growth over time, and rain carries the dead material away over the following weeks and months. No rinsing, no aggressive follow-up. Depending on your roof pitch and setup, you may be able to apply most of it from a ladder or even the ground -- though you have to be very careful not to force water up under shingles at the wrong angle. Dan's roofer confirmed his customers have had good results with it. Oxygenated bleach / sodium percarbonate (essentially OxiClean). This is what Dan used. Mix approximately one pound of oxygenated bleach per two gallons of water. Apply with a pump-up garden sprayer. This is gentler on plants and on...

  4. Jul 23

    How to Paint Aluminum Siding -- Plus Removing Algae, Mold, and Mildew from Exterior Siding

    Original Air Date: 07/25/26 Episode Number: 469 Episode SummaryA listener question about painting aluminum siding kicks off the show, and Dan splits the answer across two segments with a detour in the middle: a full conversation on how to identify and safely clean biological growth off the exterior of your home -- algae, mold, mildew, moss, and lichen. The aluminum siding answer wraps up at the end with product recommendations and a strong case for always doing two coats. Moss and lichen get their own episode next week. Timestamps[00:00] -- Show Kickoff[00:30] -- Listener Question: Aluminum Siding[01:44] -- Oxidation and Prep Basics[03:58] -- Wash, Scrub, Rinse[05:42] -- Hand Test and Inspection[07:21] -- Primer or Not[08:11] -- Switch to Algae Topic[08:53] -- Brick Recap and What Triggered This[12:20] -- What Growth Is It?[13:32] -- Algae, Moss, Lichen, Mold[16:16] -- Efflorescence Sidebar[17:29] -- Moisture Causes First[19:01] -- Cleaning Safely Tease[20:01] -- Moss vs. Mold Distinction[21:00] -- Golden Rule: Gentle Cleaning[22:47] -- Pick the Right Cleaner[25:50] -- Prep Before Repainting[27:09] -- Hose, Not Pressure Washer[29:53] -- Why Not Straight Bleach[31:22] -- Protect Plants from Runoff[32:41] -- Fix the Moisture Root Cause[33:56] -- Aluminum Siding Paint Picks[34:45] -- Two Coats Really Matters[36:33] -- Best Benjamin Moore Options[38:54] -- Temperature and Wrap Up Listener Question: Aluminum Siding [00:30]A listener wrote in asking about painting their tan aluminum-sided house a darker blue. They wanted to know what prep was involved, whether one-coat coverage was possible, and what products to use. Dan splits the answer into two segments. The short version on the one-coat question: two coats, always. The longer version on everything else follows below. Oxidation and Prep Basics [01:44]The single most important thing to understand about painting aluminum siding is oxidation. If you've ever rubbed your hand across older aluminum and ended up with white chalky powder on your palm, that's the original factory finish breaking down from years of sun, rain, and weather. That chalk has to come off before any paint goes on. Paint bonds to a surface. If that surface is a loose layer of chalk sitting on top of old factory finish, the paint is bonding to the chalk -- not to the siding. When the chalk lets go, the new paint goes with it. This is the most common reason aluminum siding paint jobs fail, and it's entirely avoidable. A pressure washer alone won't get you there. It'll knock off dirt and cobwebs, but it doesn't automatically remove oxidation. Dan compares it to washing your car with only a pressure washer after an entire Michigan summer of construction zones and dirt roads -- you'll get some of it, but you won't get all of it. Wash, Scrub, Rinse [03:58]Start with a good exterior house cleaner that's built to break down dirt, grime, mildew, and oxidized residue. Apply it, and then physically scrub the surface -- a soft-bristle siding brush on an extension pole makes this manageable. Work in sections so you can scrub and rinse before the cleaner dries on the siding. You can use a pressure washer for rinsing, but keep the pressure reasonable and always direct the spray downward the way rain would naturally hit the siding. Shooting water upward beneath the panel laps can drive moisture into the wall. The pressure washer is a rinsing and help-with-cleaning tool. The scrubbing still has to happen. Hand Test and Inspection [05:42]Once the siding is dry, perform the hand test: rub your palm firmly across the surface. If it comes away clean, you're good to move on. If there's still a chalky residue on your hand, keep cleaning. The surface doesn't need to be microscopically perfect, but you should not be able to casually wipe your hand across it and look like you've been handling powdered sugar. While you're working your way around the house, inspect as you go. Look for peeling paint, corrosion, bare aluminum, dents, damaged panels, and failed caulk around windows, doors, and penetrations. Bare or corroded areas may need spot priming before finish paint -- bring photos into RepcoLite and they'll point you toward the right primer. Loose paint should be scraped away and edges feather-sanded so they don't telegraph through the new finish. Primer or Not [07:21]If the original factory finish is clean, intact, and firmly bonded, you do not need to prime the whole house. No matter what you read online. A high-quality exterior acrylic straight over a clean, sound factory finish is the right call. Primer is for bare spots and problem areas only. Biological Growth: What Are You Actually Looking At? [12:20]Dan took a walk around his own house after mentioning offhand on last week's show that brick doesn't need much maintenance -- "every now and then you clean the algae off." That comment nagged at him all week until he went and looked. His back wall, under two old maple trees, was covered in green growth on both the brick and the vinyl siding on the addition. This week's middle segment covers what to do about it. Before you clean anything, figure out what you're actually dealing with. The growth type matters, and the surface it's on matters just as much. Algae is the most common. Thin, flat, greenish film, usually on shaded or damp areas. Feels slick when wet. Spreads across the surface rather than growing in clumps. Moss is thicker and softer -- you know what it looks like. It holds moisture against the wall, which creates problems depending on what the wall is made of. On vinyl it's mainly a staining and maintenance issue since vinyl doesn't rot, but on wood siding or shingles it can contribute to paint peeling, decay, and eventually rot. On brick, stucco, or stone it keeps mortar joints and damaged areas wetter longer than they should be. Lichen is crusty and firmly attached -- it can be gray, yellow, pale green, orange, or black. It's the toughest of the group to remove because it grips the surface aggressively. On soft brick or old mortar, scraping it off can pull part of the surface along with it. Lichen on roofs gets its own conversation next week. Mold and mildew tend to appear darker, blotchy, fuzzy, or powdery. Efflorescence -- the white, fuzzy stuff sometimes seen on brick or concrete -- looks biological but isn't. It's salt deposits left behind by moisture moving through the masonry. Address the moisture source; don't just clean it off and move on. Dan is covering algae, mold, and mildew this week. Moss and lichen get their own episode next week, including how to deal with them on the roof. Fix the Moisture Problem First [17:29]Cleaning is not a permanent fix if you don't address why the growth is there. Moisture is the cause of all of it. Before mixing any cleaner, look at what's creating the damp conditions: overflowing gutters, a downspout dumping water next to the wall, a sprinkler hitting the siding, shrubs growing too tight against the house and blocking airflow, mulch or soil piled high against the brick, or heavy shade from tree canopy keeping the wall from drying out. If you clean the wall and leave the moisture problem in place, the growth is going to come back -- sometimes pretty quickly. Cleaning Safely: JoeMax [22:47]Start with the gentlest method that will get the job done. Don't reach for the strongest chemical available or fire up the pressure washer first. Inspect the surface before you do anything. On brick, check the mortar joints -- is it solid or loose and powdery? On siding, look for loose panels, open caulk joints, peeling paint, or damaged edges. The condition of the surface determines how carefully you have to work. Also confirm you're actually dealing with biological growth and not just dirt or pollen. If it's just a surface film of grime, mild dish soap, a scrub brush, and a hose will probably handle it without any specialty product. If it's actual biological growth, the product Dan recommends is JoeMax House Cleaner and Mildew Killer. It's a concentrate that combines a mildewcide, bleach activator, and detergents. You mix it with household bleach and water. It kills mold and mildew and lifts dirt and staining at the same time, and it's rated for virtually every surface on the outside of a house -- vinyl, aluminum, painted or stained wood, trim, fences, stucco, concrete, and brick. One product covers everything. For Dan's situation with both brick and vinyl on the same house, that matters. Using it is straightforward: mix per the label, spray on, give it about five minutes to work, and rinse off. Most smooth surfaces won't need scrubbing. Textured surfaces like brick may need a light scrub. Mix only what you'll use in the next few hours -- once bleach is added, it's only good for a short time and can't be saved. Why Not Just Use Straight Bleach? [29:53]Bleach is not a great cleaner on its own. It beads up and runs off rather than wetting the surface and lifting residue. It also flashes off quickly -- it can lighten a mildew stain and evaporate before it actually kills the growth, so the problem comes right back. JoeMax has detergents that let it wet the surface, carry the contamination away, and stay active long enough to do the job properly. Hose, Not Pressure Washer [27:09]For the actual cleaning, a garden hose with a...

  5. Jul 16

    Points of No Return: The Exterior Surfaces You Can't Unpaint

    Original Air Date: July 18, 2026 Episode Number: 468 Episode SummarySome exterior surfaces are one-way doors. You can paint them -- but once you do, something changes permanently, or close enough to it that you should know what you're signing up for before you start. Dan opens with a story about a pair of jeans he turned into extremely short shorts without measuring first, and uses it to frame a conversation about five exterior surfaces where the same logic applies: brick, foundation, natural stone, decks, and vinyl siding. Timestamps[00:00] -- Points of No Return[00:56] -- Jorts Origin Story[02:31] -- Cut Once, Regret[06:06] -- Neighbor Catches You[07:30] -- Painting One-Way Doors[10:40] -- Brick Painting Reality[14:03] -- Brick Breathability and Options[15:17] -- Foundation Paint Tradeoffs[17:00] -- Moisture and Cracks Warning[18:54] -- Natural Stone Teaser[19:38] -- Natural Stone Risks[21:33] -- Updating Dated Stone[22:40] -- Resale Impact Warning[24:04] -- Why Deck Paint Fails[25:18] -- Stain vs. Paint[27:32] -- Removing Deck Paint[28:57] -- Vinyl Siding Setup[31:58] -- Color, Heat, and Warping[35:04] -- Vinyl Safe Colors[36:41] -- Best Practice Checklist[37:28] -- Get Expert Help[38:21] -- Car Show Wrap Up The Jorts Story [00:56]Dan had a pair of blown-out jeans he decided to cut into work shorts. He eyeballed the cut instead of measuring. Part of his brain told him not to. He ignored it. The resulting shorts were dramatically too short -- Daisy Dukes, his word -- and he wore them up a ladder in the backyard because there was no other option. His neighbor appeared, smirked, and delivered the full measure-twice-cut-once speech. No photos exist. Brick [10:40]Painted brick is permanent for all practical purposes. Stripping paint off brick is expensive and usually damages the face. That means when you paint brick, you're not just picking a color -- you're becoming a painted brick house, likely forever. Two other things to keep in mind: you're creating maintenance that didn't exist before (a painted surface will need refreshing every 5-10 years), and you need the right product. Standard paint can trap moisture inside the masonry, and in Michigan winters, freeze-thaw cycles can cause spalling -- the face of the brick literally flaking off. For a better option, RepcoLite carries Roma Bio Limewash and Roma Bio Mineral Paint. Both are breathable and bond with the brick rather than sitting on top of it. They create a great old-world look and mostly sidestep the moisture problems. Still a point of no return, but a much lower-maintenance one. Foundation [15:17]Same logic as brick. Concrete block and poured concrete are porous and move moisture. Once you paint them, you're on a maintenance cycle. Before painting, address any efflorescence (white, fuzzy salt deposits), persistent peeling, or visible water intrusion -- paint won't fix those, it'll just cover the symptoms. And don't paint over foundation cracks without understanding what caused them. Ayers Basement Systems can evaluate for free in most cases. Natural Stone [19:38]What makes natural stone beautiful is the variation -- every piece is different, the light catches the texture differently, it has depth. Painting it covers all of that. The texture stays, but the richness is gone. Sometimes painted stone looks great. Sometimes it ends up looking a little fake. Worth thinking about before you open the can. If the stone is genuinely dated and you want to update it, a solid color is a reasonable fix -- but if you're planning to sell the house soon, be cautious. There's a portion of buyers who will see painted-over fieldstone as a problem. Since getting that paint back off is essentially the same story as brick, it's their problem too. Decks [24:04]A deck is one of the harshest environments on a property. Rain, snow, sun, foot traffic, patio furniture -- it's brutal on a film-forming coating like paint. When deck paint eventually fails, it chips, cracks, and peels, and refreshing it means scraping and sanding before you can recoat. It's a much harder maintenance cycle than most people expect going in. For most decks, a quality deck stain is a better answer. It wears out by fading, and when it's time to refresh, you clean and recoat. For decks in rough enough shape that you need solid coverage, look at WoodLux or RepcoLite WoodMaster -- both deliver an opaque look but form a thinner, more breathable coating than paint that handles the wood's expansion and contraction better. If you've already got paint on a deck and need to remove it, RepcoLite rents a floor sander that's built for the job. It's still not fun, but it's the best option available. Vinyl Siding [28:57]The point of no return here is color. Darker colors absorb more heat. If the new color you choose is significantly darker than the original vinyl color, the panels can absorb enough heat to expand beyond what they're designed for -- causing warping, buckling, or sagging. Once that happens, it's permanent. Repainting lighter can slow or stop it from getting worse, but won't undo what's already warped. This is not rare. Look at houses in your neighborhood and you'll find examples. Benjamin Moore has a collection of about 75 vinyl safe colors formulated with pigments that reflect more infrared heat, so a darker-looking color doesn't absorb heat the same way a standard formula would. These are a real step forward -- but they're not a blank check. The quality and thickness of your vinyl, your sun exposure, and whether you're using the right paint product all factor in. Vinyl safe colors are intended for use in Regal Select, Aura, or Element Guard specifically. Dan's checklist: check your vinyl manufacturer's repainting recommendations, use a Benjamin Moore vinyl safe color, use it in Regal Select, Aura, or Element Guard, and don't push dramatically darker than the original color if you can help it. Bottom Line [37:28]For any of these surfaces, stop into any RepcoLite before you start. Bring pictures, bring samples, bring whatever you've got. The staff can help you work through the right product, the right color, and the right approach so you're not finding out what you didn't know on the back end of a project you can't undo. EventsCar show at Lakewood RepcoLite -- July 18, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Classic cars, trucks, motorcycles, and the Corvette Club. Free admission, Hudsonville ice cream while it lasts. Some construction out front but you can get through. Dan will be there. Products MentionedRoma Bio Limewash -- Breathable masonry finish for brick; available at RepcoLiteRoma Bio Mineral Paint -- Breathable mineral-based option for brick; available at RepcoLiteAyers Basement Systems -- Foundation crack evaluation (typically free)WoodLux -- Solid color deck stain; available at RepcoLiteRepcoLite WoodMaster -- Solid color deck stain; available at RepcoLiteRepcoLite floor sander rental -- For removing deck paint; ask in storeBenjamin Moore vinyl safe color collection -- ~75 colors formulated for vinyl siding; available at RepcoLiteBenjamin Moore Regal Select, Aura, Element Guard -- Products where vinyl safe formulations are available Find the ShowEpisodes available anytime at repcolite.com -- click the On the Radio tab. Home In Progress | RepcoLite Paints | Sponsored by Benjamin Moore

  6. Jul 9

    Painting in the Heat, Dealing with Cigarette Smoke Smell, and Why the Trades Matter More Than Ever

    Episode TitleOriginal Air Date: 07/08/26 Episode Number: 467 Episode SummaryA full episode this week. Dan picks up the smoke smell series with fabric, carpet, upholstery, and the full cigarette smoke remediation process -- including the right primer and why it's step four, not step one. Then a long segment on painting in summer heat: surface temps vs. air temps, when to start, when to quit, how to chase the cool shade, bees on ladders, and the best products for the job. He closes with a cement truck taking out his power line, his electrician son saving the day, and a case for encouraging the next generation toward the trades. In This Episode[00:00] -- Show Intro and Teaser[01:16] -- Microwave Fire Story[04:27] -- Wash Smoke Out of Fabrics[06:22] -- Carpet and Upholstery Deodorizing[09:47] -- Cigarette Smoke Reality Check[11:15] -- Deep Clean and Remove Odors[15:00] -- Prime and Repaint Correctly[18:53] -- Heat Weather Painting Setup[19:28] -- Heat Lovers and Painting Risks[21:13] -- Heat Painting Is Fine[21:39] -- Air vs. Surface Temp[23:10] -- Hot Surface Failures[24:01] -- Start Early, Plan Your Walls[25:13] -- Chase the Cool Shade[26:34] -- Infrared Thermometer Hack[27:35] -- Quit Before the Dew[28:16] -- Heat Safety and Breaks[29:11] -- Bees and Ladder Panic[32:47] -- Treat Your Crew Right[33:46] -- Best Paint for Heat[35:27] -- Power Pole Chaos Story[37:32] -- Why Trades Matter[39:41] -- Wrap Up and Events Microwave Fire Story [01:16]Dan circles back to the microwave fire story from a couple weeks ago. His daughter put a cherry pit heating bag -- the kind you warm up in the microwave, no cords, homemade, probably acquired at a flea market in Shipshewana -- in for 20 minutes instead of two. Flames ensued. He hauled the microwave outside in his underwear at bedtime. Kids still love that story. He covered getting the smell off hard surfaces in episode 465 (find it at repcolite.com). Today he's picking up what he didn't have time for then: getting smoke smell out of fabrics. Wash Smoke Out of Fabrics [04:27]Fabrics act like odor sponges. After any kind of kitchen fire or smoke event, the first step is getting everything washable off the walls and into the machine -- curtains, slipcovers, throw blankets, pillows, towels, rugs if possible. No special detergent required. Start with regular laundry detergent and the warmest water the fabric can handle. Don't cram everything into one load -- the fabric needs room to move so the soap and water can actually pull the smoke residue out. The important rule before the dryer: do the sniff test. If it still smells smoky, wash it again. Don't dry it yet. Dryer heat can lock odors in and make them significantly harder to remove. Once it smells clean, then dry it. Carpet and Upholstery Deodorizing [06:22]For things that can't go in the washing machine, start by vacuuming thoroughly. Smoke leaves behind particles and residue that are physically sitting in the fibers. Vacuuming first gives you a better starting point before adding anything wet. From there, baking soda -- plain, unscented -- can help absorb and reduce odors. Sprinkle it on, let it sit overnight, then vacuum it up completely. Dan is cautious about the heavily scented carpet deodorizers because they can mask the problem rather than solve it. For tougher situations, OdoBan (O-D-O-B-A-N) markets products specifically for smoke odors that can be misted onto carpet and upholstery. It neutralizes rather than masks. Follow the label carefully, test a hidden spot first, and don't soak anything. If the smoke smell is light, baking soda or a fabric-safe neutralizer may be enough. If it's strong, actual carpet or upholstery cleaning may be necessary. And if the odor has gotten into the carpet pad or foam backing, surface treatments may only mask things temporarily -- in those cases, replacement may be the only real fix. Cigarette Smoke Reality Check [09:47]Cigarette smoke is the same problem as kitchen smoke, just dramatically worse. Instead of one event, you're dealing with months or years of buildup. Nicotine and tar accumulate on walls, ceilings, in carpet, drapes, cabinets, ductwork, insulation, and unfinished wood. It yellows paint. It gets into everything. It's a big job, and it has to be treated like one. Deep Clean and Remove Odors [11:15]Step 1: Remove what you can. Old curtains, old carpet, old blinds -- anything soft that's holding the odor. If it's reasonable to just pull it out and start fresh, that's usually the easier path. Don't try to rescue things that aren't worth the effort. Step 2: Wash everything down. Everything. Walls, ceilings, trim, doors, cabinets, closets, inside drawers, light fixtures, fan blades, switch plates, outlet covers. Anywhere smoke residue could have settled over years. The choice of cleaner depends on the goal. If you're trying to preserve the existing paint and avoid repainting, start mild -- warm water with Dawn dish soap, gentle enough not to damage the finish. Don't scrub aggressively. Don't soak the walls. Test anything stronger in a hidden spot first. If the odor is coming back after a mild wash, or if you've already decided to repaint, then you're not trying to save the old paint anymore. At that point, a degreaser or TSP substitute can come in. Still: follow the label, protect nearby surfaces, rinse thoroughly, and let everything dry completely before priming. Cleaner residue can cause problems just like smoke residue. Step 3: Replace HVAC filters. If the smell is heavy, it may be worth calling a duct cleaning company and asking specifically about their process for smoke-affected systems. Some use deodorizers or neutralizers after cleaning -- worth asking about before assuming they're not needed. Prime and Repaint Correctly [15:00]This is where most people go wrong. After cleaning, they roll on new paint and it looks and smells fine -- for a week. Then the stain and odor start coming back through. For cigarette smoke and nicotine, you need a true stain-blocking or odor-blocking primer after cleaning and before painting. A shellac-based primer like BIN is a reliable choice. RepcoLite Zip Prime is an oil-based option that will block smoke stains and water stains effectively. It cleans up with mineral spirits, but it gets the job done. It's on sale this month at RepcoLite and is available in spray cans -- which makes it a handy fix if you've got a few water damage spots on a ceiling you want to seal without breaking out brushes and rollers. Dan's caution on water-based stain blockers: they can work in some situations, but with heavy cigarette smoke and persistent odor, don't cut corners. Ventilate well and use the shellac or oil-based products that are built for this kind of problem. The full sequence for cigarette smoke: Remove what's holding the odorVentilate and filter the airWash and rinse all surfacesPrime with the right productPaint Primer is step four, not step one. A lot of people skip straight to it and wonder why the smell keeps coming back. When to call a professional: if there was an actual fire (not just a small appliance incident), if there's visible soot beyond one small area, or if smoke got deep into the HVAC system, a restoration company may be the right call rather than DIY. Heat Painting Is Fine -- With the Right Approach [21:13]People ask constantly whether they can paint outside in summer heat. The answer is yes -- with conditions. The problems come from working like it's a 75-degree day in May when it's not. Air vs. Surface Temp [21:39]The most common mistake in hot-weather painting: looking at the weather app, seeing 88 degrees, checking the paint can and seeing a range up to 100 degrees, and assuming everything is fine. The number on the app is air temperature. Paint doesn't care about just air temperature -- it cares about the surface it's going onto. A wall or siding that's been baking in direct sun can run 15 to 20 degrees hotter than the surrounding air. The app says 88, the south wall could easily be 105 or 110. That's the number that matters. Hot Surface Failures [23:10]Paint applied to an overheated surface dries almost the instant it touches. That sounds fast and convenient. It's not. You can't blend edges before they set, so you get lap marks -- visible streaks where one pass overlaps the next. The paint can bubble or blister. And the bigger problem: it doesn't get the chance to bond properly to the surface. A job that looks fine in July can start letting go within a year or two, or faster, because the adhesion was compromised from the start. Start Early, Plan Your Walls [24:01]In extreme heat, start early -- but not before the dew has burned off. A damp surface is a problem too. The rule: start early, but only after the surface is fully dry. Once you start, be strategic. If one side of the house is going to get hit by sun first, and it's still cool, that may be the place to begin --...

  7. Jul 2

    The Liberty Bell, Colonial Front Doors, and the Real Story of Betsy Ross

    Original Air Date: July 4, 2026 Episode Number: 466 Episode SummaryIt's the annual Home In Progress Fourth of July Extravaganza. This year Dan covers three topics connected to the Revolutionary era: the Liberty Bell, and how almost everything most people think they know about it is a little off; colonial curb appeal, what colors those front doors actually were, and why any of that matters for your house today; and the real story of Betsy Ross -- not the polished legend, but the full picture of a feisty, independent tradeswoman who kept getting knocked down and kept getting back up. Better than the myth. More American, too. In This Episode[00:00] -- Fourth of July Kickoff[00:34] -- Liberty Bell Origins[01:45] -- Revolution Myths Debunked[03:09] -- The Bell Was a Lemon[04:44] -- How It Got Its Name[05:41] -- Break[06:39] -- Colonial Curb Appeal[08:07] -- Real Colonial House Colors[10:02] -- Paint Forensics Explained[13:23] -- Classic Door Color Palette[16:55] -- Why Door Color Still Matters[18:38] -- Paint Project Payoff[19:23] -- Betsy Ross Legend Setup[19:59] -- 1776 Flag Shop Scene[23:59] -- Meet Elizabeth Griscom[24:38] -- Trade Skills and Elopement[29:16] -- Widowhood and Resilience[31:57] -- Washington Bed Hangings Proof[34:29] -- Did She Make the First Flag[35:51] -- Why the Myth Spread[37:34] -- Real Betsy Ross Legacy[39:31] -- Fourth of July Signoff THE LIBERTY BELLLiberty Bell Origins [00:34]Most people can picture the Liberty Bell -- big bronze bell, long jagged crack running up the side. Most people also have the story at least a little wrong. The bell was not made for the Revolution. It was ordered in 1751, a full 25 years before the Declaration of Independence, for the Pennsylvania State House. The most likely occasion was the 50th anniversary of Pennsylvania's original constitution, a document called the Charter of Privileges, written by William Penn in 1701. It happened to be in the Pennsylvania State House -- the building we now call Independence Hall -- when the Declaration of Independence was debated and adopted. It was there. So was dirt. Nobody's made a monument out of that either. Revolution Myths Debunked [01:45]There's a story that the Liberty Bell rang out to call people to the first public reading of the Declaration of Independence. Dan loves that story. Historians do not. No evidence supports it, and the general conclusion is that it was made up. The Bell Was a Lemon [03:09]The bell was ordered from a London foundry, shipped to Philadelphia, unpacked, and rung for the first time. On that first ring, it cracked. Two Philadelphia metalworkers -- John Pass and John Stow -- offered to fix it. They melted it down and cast a new one. That one didn't sound right. They melted it down again and cast another. The bell we know today is that second attempt. Three tries, two complete restarts. How It Got Its Name [04:44]For most of its existence, the bell was called the State House Bell or the Bell in the Steeple. The name Liberty Bell first appeared not during the Revolution but in abolitionist circles in the 1830s. People fighting to end slavery noticed a verse from Leviticus engraved on the bell: "Proclaim liberty throughout all the land unto all inhabitants thereof." They claimed it as their symbol and renamed it the Liberty Bell. The name eventually stuck. The Liberty Bell, in other words, is named for a fight that came decades after the Revolution ended. COLONIAL FRONT DOORSColonial Curb Appeal [06:39]In late 1700s New England, a lot of homeowners put their money, skill, and creativity almost exclusively into the front of the house. The face you showed the road. That side got clapboard siding, embellishments around the windows and doors, and paint. The sides and the back were often covered in rougher shingles and left to weather -- going gray, brown, silver in the salt air, depending on the climate. Nobody who mattered was looking at the back of the house. That's where the family went. The important people came to the front. Real Colonial House Colors [08:07]Most people picture colonial houses as white. White is part of the story but not the whole story. In the late 1700s, a clapboard house might be white or off-white if the owner had money, but it might just as easily be red-brown, yellow ochre, gray, or tan -- or just left to weather, particularly on simpler rural homes. The one place that almost always got paint, even when the rest of the house didn't, was the front door. It was the place to make a statement without the expense of painting an entire house. That was true 250 years ago and it's still true today. Paint Forensics Explained [10:02]How do we actually know what colors colonial houses were painted? The original paint is buried under 20 coats applied over two centuries, and old paintings of the buildings can't be trusted -- the artist may have taken liberties, and the pigments in the paintings fade over time. The answer is cross-section microscopy. A conservator finds a protected spot where old paint survived -- behind a shutter hinge, under a piece of molding -- and takes a sample smaller than the head of a pin. That sample gets set in clear resin, polished down, and examined from the side under a microscope. Every coat of paint the building ever wore shows up as its own distinct layer. Count down to the very first one, identify the pigments, adjust for yellowing and fading, and you know the original color. The man who pioneered this in America is Frank Welsh. He's read the paint on Independence Hall, the White House, and Grand Central Terminal, and saved over 50,000 samples in his career. In the 1980s and '90s, Colonial Williamsburg brought him in to study their historic buildings -- and what he found turned everything upside down. For decades, people assumed colonial colors were soft, muted, grayed down. Turns out that look was just old, dirty, faded paint. The real colors were bolder, brighter, and more saturated than anyone believed. Williamsburg has gone back and repainted buildings to match what the science found. The colonists liked color a lot more than we gave them credit for. Classic Door Color Palette [13:23]If you were walking through a New England town in the late 1770s, these are the door colors you'd have likely seen: Deep red-brown. Iron in the soil -- the same stuff that makes rust red -- produced a family of dull, brick-red earth colors. One common version was called Spanish brown. Dirt cheap, in the most literal sense of the phrase, and very common on doors and trim. Deep green. A dark, earthy green was a popular choice for doors and shutters. The classic colonial green door has roots going back to this period, which is part of why it still reads as traditional today. Black. More common as you move into the early 1800s. It looked formal, looked sharp, looked especially good against a pale house. White and off-white. These came from white lead, which was expensive. A crisp white door was a quiet declaration that there was money in the house. What looks like an understated choice today was a statement then. Prussian blue. A rich, deep, slightly greenish blue that arrived as a new pigment in the early 1700s and became a sensation. A blue door said you could afford something special. Vermilion red. The most expensive of all. A brilliant, clean fire-engine red that came from a pigment worth nearly its weight in gold at certain points in history. A truly bright red door was the loudest possible way to tell the world you had money. Why Door Color Still Matters [16:55]When Dan pictures colonial America, he pictures parchment tones -- old paper, brown wood, gray stone, candlelight. Even the red, white, and blue of the flag feels muted in his mental image. But these people cared about color. They cared about curb appeal, they just didn't have the phrase for it. The front door was where homeowners made that statement without the expense of painting the whole house. Two hundred and fifty years later, people still stand in front of the paint display and agonize over a quart of paint for the same reason. The front door speaks before anyone inside gets a chance to. That was true in 1775 and it's still true now. Paint Project Payoff [18:38]If you're looking for a summer weekend project, Dan's case is simple: look at your front door. What is it saying to the world? What is it saying to you? If the message needs to change, stop into any RepcoLite location and they'll help find the right color. It's a quart of paint and about four hours of work. The payoff is big. THE REAL BETSY ROSSBetsy Ross Legend Setup [19:23]Dan sets up the Betsy Ross segment by acknowledging that most people know some version of the legend. Before getting into whether it's true, he wants to introduce the real woman -- because she's considerably more interesting than the simplified version most of us grew up with. 1776 Flag Shop Scene [19:59]Philadelphia, June 1776. A secret committee...

  8. Jun 25

    How to Get Smoke Smell Out of Your House -- Plus Why Your Bathroom Paint Color Is Making You Look Tired

    Episode SummaryThis week on Home In Progress, Dan opens with a story about a flaming microwave, a snowbank, and a pair of whitey tighties -- and turns it into a genuinely useful guide on getting smoke smell out of your home. He's then joined by Jeff Mot, manager of the Lakewood RepcoLite, to talk about a car show and ice cream social coming to that store on July 18. Then Dan picks up where last week's bathroom lighting conversation left off, diving into something almost nobody considers: what the color on your bathroom walls is doing to your face in the mirror every morning. He closes with a Hannah SpaghettiO story that leads directly into the case for handy paint cups and pails -- both on sale through the end of June. In This Episode[00:00] -- Show Preview[00:48] -- Microwave Fire Story[02:56] -- Smoke Smell Fixes[03:47] -- Wash Away the Residue[06:40] -- Car Show Tease[07:06] -- Event Basics: Lakewood Car Show and Ice Cream Social[09:11] -- Why Jeff Loves Cars[10:15] -- What Makes Car Shows Fun[13:08] -- Why RepcoLite Hosts[14:50] -- Family Friendly Details[15:22] -- Directions and Construction Note[16:02] -- Bring Your Classic Ride[17:24] -- Rusty Car Banter[17:38] -- Ice Cream Social Details[18:06] -- Event Details Recap[18:43] -- Bathroom Color Cast[24:04] -- Worst Bathroom Colors[26:53] -- Makeup Gone Wrong[31:15] -- Flattering Color Picks[33:25] -- Sample Testing Tips[35:13] -- Cut-In Bucket Story[38:19] -- Handy Paint Pails Pitch[39:54] -- Wrap Up and Sign Off Microwave Fire Story [00:48]Dan's daughter punched an extra zero into the microwave and walked away. Twenty minutes later, Dan spotted smoke, ran into the kitchen, found something spinning around with actual flames coming out of it, grabbed the microwave, ran outside barefoot in his underwear, and threw it into a snowbank. In Zeeland. Around 10 at night. The kids have loved that story ever since. The aftermath is what the segment is actually about. The smoke smell wouldn't leave. Day after day, it just sat there. If that's happened to you, here's how to actually fix it. Smoke Smell Fixes [02:56]Step 1: Ventilation and filtration. Open windows, run exhaust fans, use box fans to push air out. If the smoke moved through the HVAC system, replace the furnace filter -- smoke particles can get pulled into the return and stay there. A portable air cleaner with a HEPA filter helps pull fine particles out of the air. Do all of this first, but understand that ventilation alone almost never fully solves a smoke smell. Wash Away the Residue [03:47]Step 2: Wash everything. The key thing to understand: smoke isn't just something floating in the air. It's made up of tiny particles and oily residues that land on every surface in the room -- curtains, upholstery, carpet, cabinets, walls, ceilings, clothing, all the little cracks and crevices. That's why airing the place out isn't enough. You have to physically remove the residue. Start at the source. If it was a microwave fire, unplug it, remove everything removable, and wash all of it separately. Then spread out: walls, ceilings, cabinets, doors, trim, light fixtures, switch plates, top of the refrigerator. All the surfaces that don't normally get cleaned. Smoke residue is oily, so one pass usually isn't enough -- clean, rinse, change the water, and go again. Cleaners: A mild Dawn dish soap solution works well on painted surfaces. Krud Kutter and Champion are solid degreasers for non-painted areas. After washing, OdoBan (O-D-O-B-A-N) is a cleaner and heavy-duty odor neutralizer that can knock out what remains. Vinegar, baking soda, and activated charcoal are supporting players -- not substitutes for actually scrubbing everything down. Cigarette smoke is a different conversation -- Dan plans to cover that in a future episode. Lakewood Car Show and Ice Cream Social [07:06]Dan is joined by Jeff Mott, manager of the Lakewood RepcoLite, to talk about a car show and ice cream social coming to the store. Date: Saturday, July 18 Time: 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. (Note: flyers say 11 to 1 -- it's 11 to 2) Location: Lakewood RepcoLite Jeff has been trying to get Dan to host a car show for roughly five years. He owns a 1966 International Scout and grew up around old cars. The event is part of RepcoLite's Summer Stops program -- different events at different store locations throughout the summer, built around community and getting to know customers and contractors better. The Corvette Club will be there with vehicles ranging from brand-new to 1950s and '60s models. Jeff is also welcoming any old cars, trucks, and motorcycles. The appeal of a show like this, Dan has come to understand, is the stories that come with the vehicles -- the restoration history, cars passed down through families, little museums on easels in the parking lot. That part Dan can actually get into. Admission: Free Ice cream: Free, while supplies last, with toppings Bring a classic vehicle: No registration required -- just show up and they'll direct you. If you want to give them a heads-up, call 616-393-0025. Directions note: Road construction on Lakewood Drive limits access to westbound traffic from 120th. You can get in, you can get out, but plan accordingly. Dan will continue reminding listeners as July 18 gets closer. Bathroom Color Cast [18:43]Last week's show covered bathroom lighting and how a poorly lit mirror can make you look worse than you are. Dan adds a second layer: the color on your bathroom walls. He sets it up with a moment from his own week. Walking through the warehouse where he works, he noticed an entire section had gone pink. Bright pink panels had been moved into a spot where they were catching the sun and reflecting it everywhere. Nothing had actually changed -- it just looked that way. Your bathroom walls do the same thing, every morning, to your face. The color reflects back onto your skin while you're standing at the mirror. Most people have no idea it's happening. Photographers call it color cast. Whatever color surrounds you gets cast onto you. Photography studios often paint their walls flat neutral gray to avoid adding a false tint -- they want the true skin tone, then they warm it up with lighting from there. Makeup artists watch for this constantly. A colored wall, a bright shirt, anything nearby can throw a tint onto a face and change the whole look. Bathrooms are especially susceptible because of the combination: small space (you're close to the walls), you're staring into a mirror, and bathrooms tend to be among the more brightly lit rooms in the house. All of that means more wall color gets bounced back at you. Two jobs, not one. Most of the time, when choosing a paint color, you ask how it will look in the space. In a bathroom, you have to ask a second question: how will I look in it? A moody charcoal or a deep, trendy green can look beautiful on the walls and still make the person standing in the room look a little unwell. The room can be magazine-worthy and the color still be wrong for you. That's a distinction people almost never make. Worst Bathroom Colors [24:04]Yellow and yellow-green. Especially anything with green in it. Reflects a sallow, slightly sickly cast onto skin. Cancels out the natural pink and red tones that make a complexion look healthy and awake. Strong reds. A bold red throws a heavy warm cast over everything, including your face. The stronger the color, the more tint it pushes around. Gray. This one surprises people. Photography studios use gray walls because gray tells the truth -- no invented tint. But without warm lighting aimed at you, that truth isn't always flattering. Gray tends to drain warmth out of a face and leave it looking flat and washed out. Given how long gray has dominated bathroom design, a lot of people may be dealing with this every morning without knowing it. Makeup Gone Wrong [26:53]For anyone who wears makeup, a bad wall color doesn't just affect how you look -- it affects what decisions you make getting ready. If the wall casts a color onto your face while you're applying makeup, you're working with inaccurate information. Say the wall makes you look sallow and tired -- you compensate, adjust your color, add more than you normally would. But you're correcting for a problem the room invented. You walk outside into real daylight with makeup calibrated for a wrong starting point, and nothing looks right. Everyone else sees what's on your face. You were perfectly matched for your bathroom wall. That's the mismatch. Flattering Color Picks [31:15]Soft, warm neutrals. Warm whites, soft peach, muted pink, warm beige. These reflect a gentle warm glow onto skin that flatters nearly everyone. It's like standing in good morning light. Muted nature colors....

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Ratings & Reviews

4.7
out of 5
14 Ratings

About

Welcome to Home in Progress—the weekly show from RepcoLite Paints where we dig into the projects and little fixes that make home life better. Paint colors, design tricks, flooring, plumbing, yard work—you name it. If it happens at home, we’ll talk about it. Think of it as helpful advice with a sense of humor, always leaving you with something useful and a smile.

Information

  • Creator
    Dan Hansen/RepcoLite Paints
  • Years Active
    2017 - 2026
  • Episodes
    300
  • Rating
    Clean
  • Copyright
    ℗ & © 2025 Dan Hansen
  • Show Website
    Home In Progress

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