Rock and Rice Tim Casasola

Julie is a longtime rock climber. She's been climbing in the West Coast since the 90's.

Most of you might know her from the films Rampage or Free Hueco.

Bouldering, sport, trad, bigwall — she's done it all. And guess what? She still climbs!

She also started a coalition with Al. The name? Rock and Rice. It was a coalition of two until some dude decided to make it a podcast...

Anyway. Hope you enjoy this interview.

Land Acknowledgement: Payahǖǖnadǖ
We talk a lot about Bishop! As such, I want to acknowledge that Bishop are the ancestral lands of the Nüümü and Newe People, in the land known as Payahǖǖnadǖ, the “land of flowing water.”

Nüümü were the stewards of the Owens River, before LADWP took it from them. More on that here. If you're in Bishop, I highly suggest you check out the Paiute-Shoshone Cultural Center. It show their story in quality detail.


Notes
Julie’s first climb was a slab climb: Rock Climb Run For Your Life, Joshua Tree National ParkShe was part of early development in Priest Draw, AZ.Priest Draw Guidebook.She worked at Pete’s in Hueco Tanks.Julie’s problem in Rock Creek isn’t Climb Pull Down Like De Jesus. It’s a traverse (from Choice of Weapons) around the right corner that links into "Pull Down Like De Jesus." Julie didn't actually name this route, she left it unnamed. The name "Pull Down Like De Jesus" came from Mick Ryan. Mick Ryan named this after Julie. Mick named or renamed many Eastside problems when he published his guide.While she isn't a Stonemaster, Julie's photo was in the Stonemasters article by Climbing Magazine. Back then, some people didn't even consider bouldering "real" climbing. Clark Shelk was an early advocate for bouldering. (He also started Cordless Crashpad)Shoutouts to Dustin Sabo, who FA'd Acid Wash in Bishop. Dan Delange. He's was a low key Filipino climber from SoCal that climbed hard. He was in Masters of Stone.

Episode 3️⃣ of 🪨 and 🍚

We're talking to Gerry Egbalic today. Gerry and I met at United in Yosemite Climbing Festival! He saw a Filipino flag Lakers sticker on my truck and asked, "Are you Filipino?"


Gerry Egbalic is a fifty year old Filipino trad climber who lives out of his van. He's a kind spirit, an experienced climber, and a notable mentor to many BIPOC climbers in the West Coast. Currently, he's in Moab, Utah.

He recently fundraised his AMGA Rock Guide course, and will be taking it in Colorado this June. He's still raising funds for his travel, food, and income he'd forego by taking the Rock Guide course.

Check out his Gofundme here.

Gerry's active on Instagram: @dekarabaw

Some links to things we talked about:


Gerry's first unofficial trad lead: Rock Climbing in Cathedral Peak, Yosemite National ParkGerry's official first trad send: Rock Climb Whodunit, Tahquitz & Suicide RocksWhite Lightning (Joshua Tree) inspired him to practice crack climbingAll in Ice Fest — an ice climbing festival in Ouray that elevates BIPOC, LGBTQIA2S+, and adaptive climbers.Negus in Nature — one of the groups who brought an awesome vibe to All In Ice Fest.Lots of people unexpectedly spend the night at Epinephrine, Red Rocks.Former Sierra Club Executive Director calling out John Muir’s oppressive comments: Pulling Down Our Monuments.One of our favorite foods to cook: Tortang Talong Rock Climb Annunaki, Indian Creek (Annunaki sounds Filipino, huh?)Chrysler Crack in Red RocksRock Climb Commitment, Yosemite National Park -- Gerry led this one with me and Cass June 2023.Climbing 4 Change funded Gerry's wilderness first responder course!Shoutouts to Brown Girls Climb, too.Kai Lightner on The Nugget: SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Building Jamaica’s First Climbing WallGerry was with me on my first multi pitch lead: Rock Climb Skywalker, Squamish

She’s from Manila. He’s from Iloilo. 

They both started climbing in 2017/2018. Met in Tonsai, Thailand during the pandemic. 

Now? They’re inseparabl……y best friends.

Introducing Charm Bartolay and Wilson Adolfo. 

Charm is from Manila, and travels around the world to climb. Turkey. Greece. China. And next up, Spain. She's a strong, technical sport climber who started in 2017. She's from Manila. 

Wilson Adolfo started in 2018! He's from Iloilo. He's climbed hard in Cantabaco, Danao, and Igbaras — his home crag. He sends his hardest after a nap... and might give you a beer after his send. 

Both have a lot to say about climbing at your limit and staying dedicated and psyched. Use the Chapters feature on your podcast app for the episode breakdown.

Links referred to in this episode


Crowdsourced spreadsheet for climbing info in different countries Charm on Blackfoot 7a+/5.12aIgbaras — Iloilo’s sport climbing areaIlo Ilo Climbing Community’s InstagramImproved belay platforms in Area 4 of Cantabaco — a project done by Cebu Rock Climbing and Global Climbing InitiativePeople mentioned!


Jo R Ala — former Philippines team climber who is starting Vertex BoulderingDoc Lu — climber from Cebu who described the moves on Blackfoot. And measures climbers’ pull strength and finger strength!Charm on Instagram.

Wilson on Instagram and Tiktok.

New episodes every two weeks. With some breaks. Next episode is out 3/29/24.

🚀🚀 First episode! 🪨🍚

I'm Tim — a passionate climber and a proud Filipino. I've met lots of Filipino climbers who have a lot to share. How dope would it be if there was a podcast that featured us?

Rock and Rice is a podcast where Filipino climbers tell their story.

Follow us on  Instagram.

For this first interview, we're talking to Al Amores. 

Al Amores has been a climber for 29 years. He sent his first 5.14a at forty five years old. He's climbed all around the US, Europe, and Southeast Asia, and now splits his time between the Philippines, Colorado, and West Virginia.  He's also been developing a sport climbing area in the Philippines — Danao — for the last ten years.

Al's Links
Al's InstagramDanao ClimbingCredits
Podcast logo by Pat Palacio.Intro music: Bruiser by WinchipThe "Rock and Rice" name comes from Julie De JesusInterview Notes
00:00:16 — Why Tim Casasola started Rock & Rice. And what it's about.00:02:22 — Intro to Al00:03:38 — Al's interview00:08:28 — Being the only Filipino at the crag in the late 90's West Virginia00:10:49 — Starting as a trad climber, then branching out into bouldering00:13:34 — How the New River Gorge shaped Al00:17:50 — Pursuing limits in bouldering, sport, and trad00:21:34 — Meeting Julie De Jesus (and Chris Sharma) in Bishop00:22:40 — Al, Julie, and Norm were the only Filipinos in Bishop in the early 2000s00:28:23 — Style > Numbers00:34:35 — Sending Art & Sport 5.13c/8a+ in Tonsai after his highest send being a 5.12b00:38:24 — How Hidetaka Suzuki, a former pro from Japan, influenced Al00:45:01 — Julie De Jesus was and is a well-rounded climber too (trad, sport, bouldering)00:48:51 — The Lebron James approach to climbing00:52:30 — Good climbing is like Kyrie Irving's game01:00:40 — "The Temple Bouldering Cave in Tonsai is one of the best bouldering caves in the world."01:03:23 — Al sends Beastmaster V10/7c+ in Tonsai then easily onsighted 5.12b's01:05:00 — How Al discovered climbing potential in Danao01:09:55 — Buying tons of bolts despite while new to route development01:15:55 — First Ascent? Nah son, it's about the First Descent.01:19:13 — Danao's place in the Philippines' larger climbing context01:23:28 — Sending Jack Sparrow, a 5.14a in Cantabaco, Philippines01:29:42 — "Routes are like restaurants. Your opinion isn't valid until you try it"01:30:33 — If Al were to get after another 5.14a, it'd be Proper Soul at the New01:32:49 — Tim reads Al's historical writeup on Jack Sparrow01:38:13 — Veronica Baker Amores, the ED of Global Climbing Initiative and Al's wife!01:44:56 — One aspect of climbing culture Al loves and one aspect he'd change01:48:05 — Let's better support our route developers!01:58:48 — Al's advice to the Filipino climbing community