49 episodes

The Cutting Edge presents in-depth interviews with the world's best climbers, just back from great new climbs. Presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (http://hilleberg.com), with additional support from LOWA, Polartec and Gnarly Nutrition. This podcast is produced by the editors of the American Alpine Journal.

The Cutting Edge The American Alpine Journal

    • Sports
    • 4.4 • 131 Ratings

The Cutting Edge presents in-depth interviews with the world's best climbers, just back from great new climbs. Presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (http://hilleberg.com), with additional support from LOWA, Polartec and Gnarly Nutrition. This podcast is produced by the editors of the American Alpine Journal.

    Pumari Chhish East Climbed at Last

    Pumari Chhish East Climbed at Last

    Pumari Chhish East, a nearly 7,000-meter peak in the Karakoram, had been the goal of at least six expeditions over the last 15 years. In late June, the French-American trio of Christophe Ogier, Jérôme Sullivan, and Victor Saucède finally pulled it off. In the rapidly warming Karakoram, an effective strategy was key. In this episode, AAJ editor Dougald MacDonald speaks with Ogier and Sullivan about why they chose to approach the mountain a month earlier than other teams, why they avoided the peak's easiest lines, and how climate change is transforming alpinism around the world.

    The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Gnarly Nutrition, Lowa Boots, and Polartec. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

    • 57 min
    Changabang: A Legendary Route Repeated

    Changabang: A Legendary Route Repeated

    In 1976, Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker from Great Britain climbed the west face of Changabang (6,880m) in India, the most technical climb at this altitude ever done at the time. In May of this year, 46 years later, the team of Dan Joll, Kim Ladiges, and Matt Scholes, from New Zealand and Australia, finally made the second ascent.

    In this episode, we first speak with eminent climbing historian and AAJ senior editor Lindsay Griffin about the impact of the 1976 ascent, and then with Joll and Scholes about their climb this spring. The trio spent nine days on the bitterly cold mountain, and even though equipment and techniques have advanced immeasurably in the past half century, they still found plenty of challenge on this legendary route.

    The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Polartec, Gnarly Nutrition, and Lowa Boots. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

    • 1 hr 2 min
    Clint Helander and Andres Marin in Alaska

    Clint Helander and Andres Marin in Alaska

    In late March, Clint Helander and Andres Marin climbed the direct east face of Golgotha in Alaska's Revelation Mountains. The new route, Shaft of the Abyss (4,000', VI AI5 R M5 A0 90°), had been the goal of four expeditions by the two men, starting in 2016, and was the culmination of Helander's remarkable career in the Revelations, where he has completed 12 expeditions and numerous first ascents. AAJ assistant editor Michael Levy spoke with Helander and Marin about the long history of the route, the life-threatening avalanche that cut short their first attempt, and the mysterious case of the missing tent.

    The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Gnarly Nutrition, Lowa Boots, and Polartec. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

    • 1 hr 6 min
    First Ascent of the Southeast Ridge of Annapurna III

    First Ascent of the Southeast Ridge of Annapurna III

    On November 6, three Ukrainian climbers—Nikita Balabanov, Mikhail “Misha” Fomin, and Viacheslav "Slava" Polezhaiko—summited Annapurna III by the southeast ridge. This towering ridge line, following a knife-edge of loose snow and even looser rock to a 7,555-meter summit, had been a coveted goal of elite Himalayan climbers for 40 years. The three men spent 18 days on their extremely complex alpine-style ascent and descent. AAJ assistant editor Michael Levy spoke with Balabanov and Fomin just one week after their return to Ukraine to get the complete story of this remarkable climb.

    The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Polartec, Gnarly Nutrition, and Lowa Boots. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

    • 1 hr 7 min
    Archil Badriashvili: From Georgia to the Hindu Kush

    Archil Badriashvili: From Georgia to the Hindu Kush

    Archil Badriashvili has completed a number of wild new routes in Nepal in recent years, and this fall, the 31-year-old from Georgia and regular partners Giorgi Tepnadze and Baqar Gelashvili mounted an impressive expedition to the Hindu Kush in far northwestern Pakistan. After warming up with a new route to a 6,800-meter peak, the trio made the first ascent of the highest unclimbed mountain in the area: 7,303-meter Saraghrar Northwest. They spent five days climbing a granite headwall at over 6,500 meters, followed by a tenuous traverse to the summit. The full climb took nine days round-trip.

    In this episode, Archil speaks with AAJ editor Dougald MacDonald about growing up and training in the "Little Himalaya" of the Caucasus mountains, the difficult climb of Saraghrar Northwest, and the motivating power of Georgian folk songs on difficult ascents.

    The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Gnarly Nutrition, LOWA Boots, and Polartec. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

    • 46 min
    Chantel Astorga: Solo on the Cassin Ridge

    Chantel Astorga: Solo on the Cassin Ridge

    This year, alpinist Chantel Astorga realized a long-held dream: a solo ascent of the classic Cassin Ridge on Denali, climbing 8,000 vertical feet from the bergschrund to the summit in 14 hours and 39 minutes. An avalanche forecaster based in the Sawtooth Mountains of Idaho, Chantel has been guiding and climbing on Denali for well over a decade. As you’ll hear in Episode 44 of the Cutting Edge,, Chantel applied all of her experience on Denali to plan and execute the first female solo of the Cassin, including a complex approach down Denali’s Seattle Ramp to reach the base. (Possibly the first time this route has been skied.) She then carried her skis up and over, descending the upper West Buttress to return to her high camp.

    Speaking with the AAJ’s Lauren Miller, Chantel describes her tactics and decision-making for the Cassin Ridge in great depth. It’s a peek inside the mind of a Denali master.

    The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Lowa Boots, Polartec, and Gnarly Nutrition. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

    • 48 min

Customer Reviews

4.4 out of 5
131 Ratings

131 Ratings

Keffstyle ,

Every episode is a must-listen

I get psyched whenever a new episode shows up on my phone. Thank you for making this!

Canyon Chris ,

Climbing The Nose

Inspiring show. Thanks.

jud ,

Inspirational

Love listening to these to keep the stoke alive when I can’t be climbing. Really amazing guests and stories!

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