The Scent Archive

JT Siems of Immortal Perfumes

The Scent Archive is a perfume history podcast from Immortal Perfumes. Each episode is a deep dive into the history behind a fragrance, a flower, a bottle — the histories that explain why we reach for the things we wear. Hosted by perfume historian and award winning perfumer, JT Siems

  1. 6D AGO

    The Doctor and the Atomizer: The Country Doctor Behind Perfume's Most Beautiful Bottles

    In a quiet Toledo shed in the late 1880s, country doctor Allen DeVilbiss tinkered with a problem: how to spray treatments into his patients’ throats without cotton swabs. The device he built would eventually find its way onto every dressing table in America — and reshape the way the world wore perfume. This month on The Scent Archive, we trace the strange journey of the atomizer from medical instrument to luxury object: from French pharmacies to Parisian perfumeries, from a wooden shed in Ohio to Art Deco glass empires, from doctor’s bag to dressing table. Along the way: the cholera epidemic that made spraying feel sanitary, the Venturi effect that made it possible, and the visionary son who transformed his father’s invention into a cultural phenomenon. Allen DeVilbiss didn’t invent the atomizer. He didn’t even mass-produce the first one. What he and his son Thomas built was something arguably more consequential: the idea that every woman deserved one. In this episode •         The Latin roots of “perfume” (per fumum — through smoke) and why fragrance was burned long before it was sprayed •         The 1832 cholera epidemic and France’s hygiene obsession •         The Venturi effect and the physics of mist •         French vaporisateur makers — Rimmel, Legrand, Gache — and the ecosystem DeVilbiss entered •         The Toledo shed where it all began •         Thomas DeVilbiss and the leap from medical tool to luxury perfumizer •         A million perfumizers a year by the 1920s •         The Art Deco empire (and the company basketball team called The Sprays) Sources & further reading •         Érika Wicky, “Pschitt!: A Cultural History of the Perfume Vaporizer,” Dix-Neuf 28, no. 3–4 (2024): 298–316. DOI: 10.1080/14787318.2025.2468558. •         Marti DeGraaf, DeVilbiss Perfume Bottles and Their Glass Company Suppliers, 1907 to 1968 (Hardcover, October 28, 2014). •         Thomas Dills DeVilbiss, History of the DeVilbiss Family (1927) •         Allen DeVilbiss, U.S. Patent 378,357 (Feb. 21, 1888) •         Thomas A. DeVilbiss, U.S. Patent 938,648 (Nov. 2, 1909) •         BGSU DeVilbiss archives Next month The Parisian orphan who built the most famous perfume house in the world.

    30 min
  2. MAR 21

    Pikake and the Princess

    On March 6, 1899, a flock of peacocks on a Waikīkī estate began to wail so loudly that people across the island heard them and knew. Their keeper had just died. She was twenty-three years old, and she was supposed to be queen. This episode follows the story of Princess Ka'iulani — the last Crown Princess of the Kingdom of Hawaii — from the fragrant gardens of her childhood home at 'Āinahau to the halls of the US Capitol, where she fought alone for her people's independence. Along the way, we explore the flowers at the heart of her story: pikake, the jasmine sambac she named after her beloved peacocks, and gardenia, her mother's flower — and what happened to both when the monarchy was gone. In this episode: The rise and fall of the Kingdom of Hawaii and the illegal overthrow of Queen Lili'uokalani The life of Princess Ka'iulani: royal heir, activist, and one of history's most overlooked figures The pikake flower: its Hawaiian origins, olfactive profile, and why jasmine sambac is one of perfumery's most iconic notes The cultural significance of the lei — and what pikake and gardenia meant in Hawaiian tradition The complicated legacy of Hawaiian souvenir perfume, including Royal Hawaiian Perfumes (est. 1946) If you love narrative history, royal biography, fragrance deep-dives, or podcasts like Noble Blood or Tasting History — this one's for you. 🌸 National Fragrance Day offer: 25% off everything at Immortal Perfumes through April 1, 2026. Use code ARCHIVE at checkout. 🛍️ Shop: immortalperfumes.com 🎙️ More about the podcast: scentarchivepod.com 📸 Instagram & TikTok: @immortalperfumes 📷 Photos of Ka'iulani's funeral, including her casket lying in state at 'Āinahau, are linked below. Sources & Further Reading Linnéa, Sharon. Princess Ka'iulani: Hope of a Nation, Heart of a People. Grand Rapids, MI: Eerdmans Books for Young Readers, 1999. Webb, Nancy, and Jean Francis Webb. Ka'iulani: Crown Princess of Hawai'i. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 1998. de Silva, Kīhei. "Lei Kiele." Ka'iwakīloumoku Hawaiian Cultural Center, Kamehameha Schools. https://kaiwakiloumoku.ksbe.edu/article/mele-lei-kiele Leonhardt, Kenneth W., and Glenn I. Teves. "Pikake: A Fragrant-Flowered Plant for Landscapes and Lei Production." College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources, University of Hawaiʻi at Mānoa, April 2002. https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/of-29.pdf Fullard-Leo, Leslie. Oral history interview, June 12, 1986. University of Hawaiʻi oral history project. "The Cleghorn: History at Its Base." Honolulu Star-Bulletin, January 5, 1964. "Gardenias Didn't Bloom for 2 Years After Princess' Death." Honolulu Star-Bulletin, January 5, 1952. "Princess Ka'iulani Special Edition." Pacific Commercial Advertiser, March 13, 1899. "Fairy." Images of Old Hawaiʻi. https://imagesofoldhawaii.com/fairy/ "How a 19th-Century Scot Married Into Hawaii's Last Royal Family." The Scotsman. https://www.scotsman.com/news/opinion/columnists/how-a-19th-century-scot-married-into-hawaiis-last-royal-family-4810013 The Scent Archive is a monthly podcast and companion piece to Immortal Perfumes, a Seattle-based literary micro-perfumery specializing in historically inspired handmade fragrances. Each episode, host and perfumer JT Siems follows her nose to uncover the hidden histories of the perfumed past.

    29 min
5
out of 5
36 Ratings

About

The Scent Archive is a perfume history podcast from Immortal Perfumes. Each episode is a deep dive into the history behind a fragrance, a flower, a bottle — the histories that explain why we reach for the things we wear. Hosted by perfume historian and award winning perfumer, JT Siems

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