Skincare has become increasingly complicated. We're told to layer serums, rotate actives, protect our skin barrier, use retinoids, add vitamin C, avoid certain ingredients, and somehow figure out whether the $200 product is actually better than the $20 one. But does good skincare really need to be that complicated? In this episode, Sandy sits down with Shelly Hokanson, certified cosmetic formulator and founder of Geek Out of Water, to talk about what actually matters when choosing skincare, and how to become a smarter consumer without needing a degree in cosmetic chemistry. Shelly's background in media literacy has shaped the way she approaches skincare: Who made this product? What's actually in it? What does the company want us to believe about it? And most importantly, what evidence supports the claim? In This EpisodeWhat “clean,” “natural,” “non-toxic,” and “hypoallergenic” actually mean, and why these terms aren't necessarily as standardized as consumers may assume Pasted textWhat to know about claims like “dermatologist tested,” “clinically tested,” and “detoxifying” Pasted textWhy expensive skincare isn't automatically betterHow too many actives and too much exfoliation can backfireSigns your skin barrier may be strugglingThe simple foundation of an effective skincare routineRetinoids, vitamin C, eye creams, and sunscreenHow to read an ingredient list without becoming a cosmetic scientistWhat Shelly calls “pixie dusting”- when a heavily marketed ingredient may appear in only a very small amount Pasted textSAVE or SPLURGE: where Shelly thinks your skincare dollars are, and aren't, worth spendingShelly Hokanson is a certified cosmetic formulator, professor in the School of Media Arts & Design at James Madison University, and founder of Geek Out of Water (GOOW). With nearly three decades in the classroom and a decade creating content on YouTube, Shelly brings her background in media literacy to the world of skincare, helping consumers better understand ingredients, formulation, cosmetic science, and the marketing behind the products they buy. Her work focuses on making skincare education approachable and empowering people to become more informed consumers. A Few Terms Mentioned in the EpisodeVitamin C forms:L-Ascorbic AcidTHDA: Tetrahexyldecyl AscorbateMAP: Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate Phenoxyethanol: Shelly discusses using this common preservative as a helpful reference point when looking at where highlighted ingredients appear on an ingredient list. She also notes an important caveat: some effective ingredients are intentionally used at concentrations below 1%, so placement alone doesn't tell the whole story. Pasted text Resources From ShellyFree Ingredient Literacy Guide:Download the guide Geek Out of Water / GOOW:Shop GOOW Follow Shelly:YouTube | Instagram | Facebook | TikTok Wellness Explained Evidence-based wellness, explained simply. Hosted by Sandy Jolles, MS, CNS, LDN. Disclaimer: Wellness Explained is for educational and informational purposes only and is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease or replace individualized medical advice from a qualified healthcare professional.
