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The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

Welcome to a podcast about performance climbing, self-improvement, and being a human being. 5M+ downloads. "One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space." - Climbing Magazine

  1. EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

    14 MAY

    EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

    Herm Feissner is a lifer climber based in Fort Collins, CO. We talked about doing the FA of The Practitioner V11 in Leavenworth, WA, in the early 2000s, his training philosophy at 53 years old, how his relationship with climbing has improved, balancing an engineering career with traveling and climbing, discovering and understanding moves, the boulder he is most psyched to complete, and much more. Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/herm-feissner Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:38) – FA of The Practitioner V11 (00:08:38) – Getting into climbing in 1987 (00:22:18) – Climbing with stronger people (00:27:51) – Evolving through the disciplines (00:33:12) – CATS (00:37:11) – Herm’s training philosophy (00:44:32) – Aging & improving (00:55:22) – Avoiding the expiration date (01:01:05) – How Herm’s climbing has changed (01:07:35) – How hard Herm climbs (01:10:27) – Who will push bouldering to the next level? (01:20:27) – Herm’s grading criteria (01:27:25) – How his relationship with climbing has improved (01:30:35) – Relationships (01:38:22) – Boarding school & engineering (01:50:12) – How to be outside (01:58:57) – Discovering & understanding moves (02:02:59) – I Portici (02:08:02) – Wrap up

    2 h y 10 min
  2. EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

    27 ABR

    EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

    Sonnie Trotter is a Canadian professional rock climber and one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation. We talked about his goal to climb 5.15, my impression of meeting him at Smith Rock, our parallel family histories, treating life as a game, how the Cobra Crack changed his career, how he trained as a teenager, stamina vs. strength, what makes Dave Graham so strong, and his book, Uplifted: The Evolution of a Climbing Life. Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sonnie-trotter Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:03:38) – Connor Herson’s 5.15a FAs (00:09:35) – Gunning for 5.15 (00:11:49) – Meeting Sonnie at Smith Rock (00:20:37) – His life routine (00:24:43) – Sonnie’s kids (00:29:24) – Time warp (00:33:24) – Family history (00:39:35) – Life is a game (00:42:45) – The business side of Sonnie’s life (00:53:19) – Choices & constraints (01:03:07) – Cobra Crack (01:09:20) – The progression of climbing (01:16:24) – Getting sponsored (01:20:07) – The age of print media (01:24:34) – Rifle in the 90s (01:30:52) – How he trained as a teenager (01:36:04) – Stamina vs. strength (01:45:30) – Sticking to the basics (01:49:31) – What makes Dave Graham so strong (01:54:33) – Writing his book

    2 h y 8 min
  3. EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

    7 ABR

    EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

    Dave Thompson is a 5.14 and V14 first ascentionist, alpinist, and coach for Evoke Endurance. We talked about his early climbing in the North Cascade mountains of Washington State, doing the first ascent of some of the best hard boulders in Leavenworth (Beautification, God is in the Details, The Teacup), how he got so strong, how to apply your strength on the wall, the challenges of endurance training in climbing, and more. Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-thompson Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:29) – Dave’s path to rock climbing (00:07:31) – Bob Buckley (00:10:42) – The Teacup FA (00:14:54) – Dave’s coaching philosophy (00:25:53) – How Dave got up to V14 (00:37:05) – A way of moving (00:43:19) – How to improve your gym sessions (00:48:11) – Training (00:55:54) – Dave’s climbing and coaching (00:58:53) – Dave coaches me on The Teacup (01:02:48) – FAs in the Methow Valley (01:06:59) – FAs in Leavenworth (01:11:16) – How strong can adults get at climbing? (01:13:18) – Personal agency (01:20:34) – Catching a wave (01:23:46) – Bouldering efficiency session (01:30:32) – Evoke success (01:36:47) – Training for sport climbing (01:43:25) – Not thinking (01:44:17) – How to connect with Dave

    1 h 47 min
  4. EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

    23 FEB

    EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

    Joel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helped him send a 20+ move roof boulder, how to optimize your power endurance for a sport climbing trip, and much more. Buckle up for a good old-fashioned training chat. The Nugget Training App (14-Day Free Trial) 👉 http://training.thenuggetclimbing.com FREE Finger Training PDF 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/grinds The NUG 👉 https://frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joel-unema Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:00) – Hurricave (00:04:37) – Dirtbike crash (00:07:22) – Balance vs. compromise (00:12:30) – The bigger picture (00:16:22) – Joel’s breakthrough season (00:22:43) – Finger Training with Tyler Nelson (00:37:20) – Roof Training with Steve Bechtel (00:46:51) – Ice cube moments (00:58:58) – Hi-Low (01:05:53) – Training for a sport climbing trip (01:11:54) – Pacing & metabolic specificity (01:15:45) – Training for a sport climbing trip continued (01:18:10) – Riding the rollercoaster (01:26:18) – Floor & ceiling (01:35:55) – Achievement to experience (01:39:00) – Strength training (01:45:39) – My Hueco goals (01:49:03) – Joel’s goals (01:52:13) – The Teacup (01:56:03) – Wrap up

    2 h y 4 min

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Welcome to a podcast about performance climbing, self-improvement, and being a human being. 5M+ downloads. "One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space." - Climbing Magazine

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