Leather Shop

Captain Eames Media

The Leather Shop Podcast is hosted by Matt Roach, a leather crafter eager to learn and have interesting conversations with craftsman from across the globe.

  1. 2 days ago

    Custom Cowboy Boots: Jake Houston on Bespoke Bootmaking & Exotic Leathers

    Guest Jake HoustonHouston Boot Company What You'll Hear Jake's journey from professional musician to full-time cowboy bootmaker Learning bootmaking through repair work and independent study Why stingray leather sparked the entire business Working with kangaroo, horsehide, elephant, alligator, and crocodile Understanding CITES regulations and state-by-state restrictions Material costs and sourcing premium exotic leathers How cowboy boot sizing differs from sneakers Why arch length matters more than shoe size Choosing and modifying lasts for bespoke footwear Traditional cowboy boot construction and quality indicators Leather insoles, welts, stacked heels, and wood pegs Why custom boot fitting is far more involved than off-the-shelf sizing How Houston Boot Company Started Jake explains how leather carving began as a hobby while he was performing as a country musician. After searching unsuccessfully for a custom pair of stingray cowboy boots, he decided to learn bootmaking himself, eventually opening Houston Boot Company after studying repair work and traditional construction methods. Choosing Leather for Cowboy Boots The conversation compares several premium leathers, including kangaroo for its strength-to-weight ratio, horsehide for its appearance, elephant for durability, and the unique challenges of working with stingray and alligator. Material selection depends not only on appearance but also on workability, longevity, and intended use. Sizing Custom Boots Jake explains why proper cowboy boot fitting begins with arch length instead of overall foot length. The discussion covers Brannock measurements, width sizing, custom lasts, heel height, and how bespoke boots are built around an individual's foot rather than forcing the wearer into a standard size. Inside a Handmade Cowboy Boot From leather insoles and welt construction to stacked leather heels and wood-pegged shanks, Jake walks through many of the details that distinguish handmade boots from mass-produced footwear and explains why those traditional construction methods continue to matter today. Find out more about our guest on his Website Follow the show: leathershoppod.com · @leathershoppod Support on Patreon for early episodes and bonus content.

  2. 25 Jun

    Starting a Leather Supply Business: The Leather Reserve

    dsfdGrant Anderson runs Uptown Common, a small handmade shop known for structured purses, briefcases, and bags with a distinctive double-color stitch line. This spring he launched a second venture, The Leather Reserve, importing MPG Industria hides from Italy after a discontinued leather nearly cost him a sale. Matt and Grant get into the making and the business in equal measure. Highlights: The used King Ranch F-150 whose saddle-leather interior sent Grant looking for a bag — and eventually into making his own. Why he wet-forms nearly everything, and how he builds gusset forms out of stacked acrylic (with a belt-strap molding idea to kill clamp marks). The two-color saddle stitch: four needles, two threads, and a "leapfrog" rhythm that skips every other hole. Switching from waxed linen to Tiger/Ritza polyester after breaking thread mid-stitch. The Barry King maul, and why a $90 hammer changed how the work felt. How one discontinued hide turned into a corporation and a wire transfer to Italy in about three weeks. Why a 50 sq-meter tannery minimum (~35 hides per color) keeps makers from buying direct. The MPG lines coming in: Apollo, Aragona (corrected grain), and Vakeda (tumbled), plus a custom deep-red veg tan. Episode Breakdown: 0:00 – Welcome and guest intro 1:02 – How Grant got into leather 2:09 – The King Ranch truck that started it 3:20 – Why leather longevity (and care) matters 4:26 – Hobby to business: Uptown Common 6:01 – Why most makers avoid bags 8:59 – Wet-forming for structured bags 12:15 – Acrylic forms, molds, and the strap trick 19:10 – Tools that matter: the Barry King maul 20:50 – Hand stitching vs. machine 24:22 – The jig rabbit hole 27:09 – The two-color saddle stitch 29:47 – How the four-needle "leapfrog" stitch works 36:19 – Stitching ponies and their frustrations 42:54 – The Leather Reserve origin story 47:17 – Why makers can't buy direct (minimums and shipping) 49:46 – What makes MPG leather different 55:12 – The Apollo, Aragona, and Vacchetta lines 1:02:00 – Five-year plans for both brands 1:08:18 – Leather weight and the splitting-machine question 1:13:03 – Listener questions and where to find Grant 💬 Join the Leather Shop Discord Support us on Patreon 🧰 Check the Amazon Tool List 👉 Follow on Instagram: @leathershoppod👉 More episodes: leathershoppod.com👉 All links & resources: Linktree

  3. 13/08/2025

    Inside Mack Provisions: Baseball Gloves, Canvas, and Craft

    Inside Mack Provisions: Craftsmanship Beyond the Field In this episode of The Leather Shop, Matt Roach is joined by KC of Mack Provisions, a handmade baseball glove company rooted in old-school leatherworking and modern craftsmanship. From glove relacing as a teenager to launching a full-time custom glove brand, KC shares his journey, philosophy, and what makes his gloves truly unique. Whether you're a leatherworker, player, or lover of timeless design, this is your behind-the-scenes pass into glove-making at its finest. 🔍 Episode Highlights Why Chrome-Tanned Leather Reigns Supreme How KC Learned Craftsmanship in an Alaskan Tent Shop The Horween Leather Advantage Canvas vs. Leather: What You Need to Know The Great Glove Break-In Debate Tools of the Trade: Cylinder Arm Machines, Tex 135 Thread, and More Why Suede Welting is Making a Comeback About KC & Mack Provisions KC started relacing gloves for teammates at age 13. After stints in Alaska sewing canvas tents and marine gear, he transitioned into building premium handmade baseball gloves using materials like Horween’s Ball Glove X leather, real shearling padding, and custom welting techniques. His approach blends nostalgia with durability, favoring rugged, vintage aesthetics and minimal synthetic components. Each glove is made to order, emphasizing craftsmanship over mass production. 📷 Follow KC on Instagram: @mackprovisions Craft Tips from the Episode The Truth About Glove Construction “Sewing a baseball glove is the hardest thing I’ve ever sewn—and I’ve worked on yachts, tents, and boat canvas.” – KC Why Thread and Machine Choice Matter Use UV-rated nylon thread like Tex 135, and invest in a cylinder arm machine for maximum control. Break-in Methods Skip the water dunk. Use a mallet and play catch for best results—especially when using wool padding. Related Episodes 🎙️ How Scott Makes Gloves: The Deep Craft of Baseball Leather Follow & Subscribe Stay up to date with new episodes, behind-the-scenes posts, and leather drops: 🎧 Subscribe on Apple Podcasts and Spotify 📷 Follow us on Instagram & TikTok 🌐 Visit leathershoppod.com for more 📌 Know someone obsessed with baseball or handmade goods? Share this episode! Support us on Patreon

About

The Leather Shop Podcast is hosted by Matt Roach, a leather crafter eager to learn and have interesting conversations with craftsman from across the globe.

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