California Wine Country

Dan Berger & Daedalus Howell
  • 4.5 (12)
  • Food
  • Updated Biweekly

Live Radio Show & Podcast

  1. Jun 19

    Shane Finley, winemaker, Thirty-Seven Wines

    Shane Finley, winemaker and Lisa Brayton co-owner of Thirty-Seven Wines join Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. This episode of August 10, 2022 featured Lisa along with her husband Al, who is holding down the fort today. This is Shane’s first time on the show. Thirty-Seven Wines is named after the highway. Dan describes the Thirty-Seven Wines vineyard. There are varieties there that don’t grow in warmer areas. One example of that is Albariño. They have cooler days and warmer nights, near San Pablo Bay, across the street from the Sonoma Raceway. It is at a high enough elevation to have a 180-degree view of the bay. On a clear day they can see Coit Tower in San Francisco. The vineyard lies within the Petaluma Gap AVA. They get winds from both the Petaluma Gap and from the south, off the bay. This keeps the temperatures down and controls the acid levels in all the varietals. -.. . --- -.. --- .. .-DEODORA ESTATE VINEYARDSCalifornia Wine Country is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that produce exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference! -.. . --- -.. --- .. .- Russian River vs. Petaluma Gap Russian River wines have more of a bright juicy red character, while this vineyard produces darker blue fruit, “kind of plummy,” with tangerine skin and spicy flavors. They have a very long growing season, and their harvest goes from late August sometimes into November. Some grapes need more time on the vines. Shane names Albariño, Blau Frankisch, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Merlot, which they have all on the same property. He credits Al and Lisa for being crazy enough and intuitive enough to put so many varieties together like that. Thirty-Seven Wines produces all their wine from their own estate grown grapes. Shane describes their approach to making wine. To keep it fresh and vibrant, they don’t do any lees stirring, they only do partial ML, mainly fermented in concrete. They use their oldest barrels, from 2010 and 2011. These barrels are “really neutral.” Dan detects a faint tropical note in the Albariño they are tasting. It gets intense morning sun but long cool afternoons. Lisa is in charge of managing the canopy to keep space between the clusters and maintain acidity.

    54 min

  2. Jun 12

    Scott Lindstrom-Dake, Thumbprint Cellars

    Scott Lindstrom-Dake from Thumbprint Cellars joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. This is Scott’s first time on the show. Thumbprint Cellars is located in the Petaluma Gap. The first tasting is a 2024 Nouveau, primarily made with Grenache with a little bit of Zin, meant to be served chilled. It has a dark pink color and is a refreshing easy-drinking wine. Dan notices that it is very dry but not soft, either. It has the personality of a red but the structure of a white. This wine also got 50% malolactic fermentation which gives it body but not too much. The fruit flavors are coming from the Grenache. This is the result of carbonic maceration is when you put the whole cluster in without crushing, so every berry is whole when they develop their own fermentation. It’s not meant for aging but for enjoying now. (++++) California Wine Country is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that produce exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!  (++++) The next wine is the 2021 Passion Valley, which Scott calls their prestige brand. Scott was making wine when he was an art student mostly doing sculpture, so he wanted to call it Sculptured Cellars. But then one evening, his wife handed him a gold pen to customize some labels on the bottles of some of his home made wine. The gold ink leaked from the pen, and he used his thumb to blot the ink. Then he left a gold thumbprint on the bottles. He realized he had a name when people asked for more of “that thumbprint wine.” This Sculptured Cellars wine won a Gold Medal at the North Coast Wine Challenge. It comes from 75-80 year-old Carignan vines, 50%, with another 50% Syrah. It gets a little barrel aging in French oak, about 20% new. The Carignan is grown near the Russian River, so it gets cooler evenings. Dan finds it succulent and mature, ready for further aging. He would serve it slightly chilled, with barbeque. Scott started making wine as a hobby after his wife got him a book about how to make wine in your garage. He thought about what he would want on the label. While staring at wine labels in a store for half an hour, he would read labels. He thought that the information he wanted was lacking. Scott decided it was important to put some information on the label, so the customer has an idea of what’s going on. Scott is making Cabernet Franc, which will be more and more in demand. In Napa valley, it is already more expensive than Cabernet Sauvignon. Dan predicts that its popularity will increase. Cabernet Sauvignon is a cross between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. It is not easy to grow. Cabernet Franc is not as difficult to grow. Scott describes winemaking as an art, and the science part is important but secondary. He started by making wine at home. He was lucky to work for a family in Dry Creek Valley who allowed him to make wine there, as part of his compensation. Today his artistic expression comes through his winemaking, instead of sculpture.

    38 min

  3. Jun 8

    Tony Lombardi from Lombardi Wines

    Tony Lombardi from Lombardi Wines is our guest on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. This is his first time on the show. The winery is located in the Petaluma Gap, which we have described in many recent episodes. This episode from 2018 is about the 3rd anniversary of the Petaluma Gap AVA, We start with Chardonnay, which Dan says is in the mold of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, which is an estate in Burgundy, in the Côte d’Or region in east-central France. They produce red and white wines of distinction. If you visit DRC, as it is known, they serve the reds first, then the whites. They believe in the richness and the full-bodied character of Le Montrachet. Dan says that this wine from Lombardi wines has that character which makes it an exciting wine.-•• • --- -•• --- .–. .-California Wine Country is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that produce exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference! -•• • --- -•• --- .–. .- The Lombardi Family The Lombardi family has been in Sonoma County since the ’40s. Tony has been a winemaker for 30 years. He grew up in Sebastopol and calls Sonoma County the Garden of Eden. Tony is happy to work with a friend from high school named Mike Sullivan. He got access to a few tons of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the Maratella vineyard in the Russian River Valley. Tony only made 8 barrels of this wine. He used one old barrel, seven new ones, and some stainless steel. He fermented different vineyards together, then they went into different barrels. Later he blended them all together. Dan calls it a classic example of a Russian River Valley Chardonnay. It has just a hint of oak. Tony wants the oak to just capture the edges and round it out. You want subtleness and integration, so you you catch a little bit of crème brulée, or lemon curd, or minerality. Dan says, put this wine with the right food and it get better. Tony suggests Dustin Valette’s Scallops en croute. If a Chardonnay is too buttery and oaky, it can overpower the flavors in the food. Dan noticed that Russian River Valley Chardonnay has citrus flavors that contribute to the acidity. It’s something you don’t want to lose in your blending. This vineyard is west of the town of Santa Rosa. It has some inland warmth compared to his place in Petaluma Gap. Next they taste two Pinot Noirs. In Tony’s career he has learned about regions and wines from all over the world. Now he has settled into Chardonnay and Pinot Noir which he likes for their versatility. Every March, he is part of a festival called Pigs and Pinot. Tony can blend a couple of barrels of Gap’s Crown vineyard in with the Russian River Valley fruit.

    36 min

  4. May 29

    Matt Taylor Wines

    Matt Taylor, owner of Matt Taylor Wines, is our guest today on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. This is his first time on the show. Dan Berger did talk a little about Chenin Blanc in this recent episode. On April 30 this year, Matt Taylor was the subject of a feature story in the New York Times. Chenin Blanc is coming back. It was popular in the 1970s. It was sometimes a sweet wine, but it can be dry. Today winemakers prefer to make dry Chenin Blanc and Dan approves. Matt has brought the first bottling of Chenin Blanc from the Mammoth Rock vineyard on the Sonoma Coast. ••••• California Wine Country is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that produce exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!  ••••• Chenin Blanc was sweet for centuries even in the Loire Valley. People are making it dry only in this century. Matt works with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay on the Sonoma Coast. But in 2016 he tasted a Chenin Blanc and that was a revelation. It put him on a path to the Loire Valley. He brought some budwood back and planted a vineyard in Sonoma Coast about 10 years ago. (That’s why it’s known as the Samsonite Clone.) This is the first bottling of that wine and Dan thinks it is spectacular. Chenin Blanc Then and Now Why was Chenin Blanc always a sweet wine? Dan explains that decades ago, nobody had invented a filter that was tight enough to get rid of all the sugar and yeast. It wasn’t until 1943 that the filter was invented and 1947 before it was applied to the wine. Now we have been making dry Chenin Blanc that has personality, terroir and depth from aging in barrels. This is everything Chenin Blanc could have been but never was. This wine is soft in the aftertaste but not sweet. The pH is about 3 and 12.2% alcohol. 2023 was a long season. He picked in late October or November. In 30 minutes after breathing, it will transform. There is a brightness to the wine that pairs with oysters and abalone. Dan says that Matt took a risk when he put Chenin Blanc in this place, because it is so cold is hard to get the grapes to ripen. You have to push Chenin Blanc to its limits in a cold climate. Matt Taylor pours a tasting in the Loire Valley every year or two. Sometimes the wines don’t travel so well, so having this high caliber domestic production is an advantage for us here.

    45 min

  5. May 27

    Kevin Bersofsky, Montagne Russe Wines

    Kevin Bersofsky, owner of Montagne Russe wines, is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. He has been on the show before, the last time was this episode in 2024. Kevin has brought a French style sparkling Rosé. Dan likes this sparkling Rosé because it is dry. This is a 2022, 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chard, Keller estate Petaluma Gap fruit. Kevin is very light with the dosage, 2.5 grams, here. It’s like lemons and lemonade. A little sugar makes it drinkable. 2022 was a hot year, but Kevin says there are wines before the heat, and after the heat, a tale of two completely different vintages. This was picked before the heat. Kevin calls the Petaluma Gap a sort of mini-San Francisco. At about five o’clock, a coastal breeze comes in. The effects are well known. First, the wind slows the maturation of the grape. Also, the wind stops the photosynthesis of the leaves. This favors thicker skins and color. It also keeps the acid levels up.++++++California Wine Country is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that produce exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference! ++++++ Kevin says he waits for acidity to come down before sugars get too high. In other places, you reach sugar maturity and acid maturity at the same time. Kevin picks on 3 criteria. Flavor is first. He can taste and predict Brix. When he tastes something, he knows. He has a flavor catalog in mind. For example, the Roberts Road vineyard, he has flavor criteria, and he knows what he wants. Dan says California can have fruit, acid and body without having to sacrifice one. Greg Jones is a meteorologist and Oregon farmer, who runs a weather forecast site. Visit the Abacela winery website. Too much oak. Chardonnay in California usually has too much oak. Kevin’s Montagne Russe Chardonnay is different. It has a bit of lemon oil and tropical fruit. But the acid is holding everything together. 2023 was a cold year. He did half ML on this wine. They use Puncheon barrels, which are 2.2 times larger than regular barrels. That puts less oak per unit of volume, onto the wine. Next, they taste a 2022 Pinot Noir with spectacular color. 2022 was a difficult vintage. The fruit came from the Sangiacomo family vineyard. Dan says the grower gets credit. When you pay premium prices for fruit, you also get the grower’s expertise and personal care. Dan finds this wine faintly rustic, as opposed to the bright cherry and berry. It’s a different kind of Pinot Noir. Petaluma Gap always delivers because it has more than just cold climate. It is more subtle and has more character. When Kevin has picked, he asks around to see who else has picked. Sometimes he’s the first. Gary Farrell would often pick early too and made great wine. +++++ On June 9 at 6 pm, the Healdsburg Wine Library is opening the new Millie Howie Memorial Garden and Patio. It’s free to the public and tickets are available at the Healdsburg Wine Library events page. +++++ The last wine is the Syrah. They have 23 bottles left. 2022 Petaluma Gap Syrah from Keller Estate. The Keller estate had some extra Syrah and Viognier that they offered to him. “Co-fermentation time!” says Dan. They put it all together, 100% whole cluster, 9% Viognier. It spent the final 8 months in stainless steel. He created an entirely different label for it. It came alive after a year in bottle. Dan says that this one “identifies” Syrah, which is meaty in a fruit sense, it’s not gamey. The Wind to Wine Festival is coming, October 17, 2026. Start planning now!

    50 min

  6. May 15

    Chigazola Merchants French Wines

    Don Chigazola is back with Chigazola Merchants French wines on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. Don Chigazola receives the first Golden Corkscrew with a fanfare for brass orchestra, for being a guest ten times on CWC. The last time Don Chigazola was on CWC was this episode last January, with a selection of wines he imports from Italy. Today, we will taste Chigazola Merchants French wines, which Don has just begun to import. These wines come from a vineyard and winery called Domaine Tour Campanets, located about an hour north of Aix en Provence in a village called Les Puys. Don has brought five bottles, two whites, two Rosés and one red blend. The winemaker is Emanuelle Baude, the daughter of the family that bought the property decades ago. The first is a Rosé, made of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah. We’ll hear a lot of those varietals today, since they make up a lot of the production in Provence. California Wine Country is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that produce exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference! Chigazola Merchants French Wines Don Chigazola opened Chigazola Merchants 14 years ago after retiring from Med Tech. The regulatory process took 6 months, but he finally got federal and state licenses to import, distribute and retail wines from Europe. They have been importing wines from Italy for 13 years, including most of the well-known Italian varietals, from 12 of the 20 regions covered. They developed an interest in French wines when his wife Debbie tasted some French Roses. Now, Chigazola Merchants French wines are coming in through the same process they have for importing Italian wines. Dan says that this Rosé wine carries so much more of that tropical fruit plus spice component from the Grenache. The Syrah is there for flavor but not or intensity. Dan says that Grenache makes the best Rosé in Provence. It’s delicate but dry, loaded with flavor. Domaine Tour de Campanets There is a centuries-old tower on the property, Tour de Campanets means bell tower in Provençale French. The wines labeled Bois des Fées are their top quality production. Along with his wife and son, Don travels to meet the producers and visit the wineries. The don’t import from a producer unless they walk the vineyards and get to know the family. The other Rosé is under the Bois de Fées label. This one is made with Cabernet Sauvignon, it has more acidity and more weight. Dan observes that American wine buyers think that if a wine is inexpensive, it can’t be any good, even if they are. People didn’t trust inexpensive wines from Provence because the price was low. On the east coast, these were the bargain hunters’ paradise. People knew about them. But on the west coast they didn’t sell. All these wines cost under $30 but Dan says they are comparable to wines that cost over $40. Don says to his clients who may resist Rosé, if you taste this Rosé it will change what you think about Rosé. A Vermentino by any other name The Tour de Campanets Cuvée is a blend of 50% Rolle (which is another name for Vermentino), 35% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Ungi Blanc. Rolle, or Vermentino, has taken hold in France. The Italians claimed the name and so the French renamed it. This grape has a trace of pineapple in the aromatics that you don’t get anywhere else. This wine is completely dry. Daedalus suggests marketing it as “Rolle in the hay,” Marketing department, work on that. Ungi Blanc is the same as Trebbiano. It is another renaming. In Sardengna, Cannonau is Grenache, but the French wouldn’t let the Italians use the name Grenache. It’s the same grape. It’s global politics in a bottle. There is an annual wine show in Paris that the Chigazolas have attended for the last 3 years. This is how they started making contacts in France. The last tasting is a 2024 red blend. Dan says that Don is doing a service to his customers These wines are different than his Italian wines. Don has the experience to know how to find these wines, that are unique, delicious and priced at $30 and below. These wines and these bargains are unique.

    44 min

  7. May 8

    Bottle Barn Picks Showing New Trends, with Dan Berger

    We have a selection of Bottle Barn picks from Dan Berger on California Wine Country with Dan and Daedalus Howell today, wines that Dan says show a trend in the retail wine business. He has brought selections from Bottle Barn that will illustrate this new direction. Dan Berger is our weekly co-host and has also been featured on the show, such as this episode about Gamay Beaujolais. Many younger consumers are looking for something different. Instead of dwelling on doom and gloom because of low sales, there is an opportunity to reset the industry and to rethink things. As consumers change, the industry needs to adapt to changing tastes and provide more variety. Dan calls it a Return to Reality. So, for example, we have seen a rebirth of Chenin Blanc in the last 10 years. Barry Herbst, wine buyer at Bottle Barn, makes sure that the store has lots of choices for people looking for something new. ++++ CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference ! ++++ Esporão, Assyrtyko and Pigato The first taste is Esporão, a Portuguese white wine made in the style of Chardonnay. It is aged in wood, but delicately. It has only 13.5% ABV. The region is near the Atlantic Ocean in a cool area. It’s a 2020 and still fresh. It was $30 at first release, but now it is $12.99. The wine has the aging that it needs, it’s ready to drink. The next tasting is a 2024 Assyrtyko. It is a Greek grape that grows primarily in Greece. But this one is from Jim Barry Wines in Claire Valley in Australia. It sells for about $24 at Bottle Barn. Dan thinks the next wave of interest in wine will not be from collectors. There will have to be more diversity in the choices of wines, varieties and origins. Wine today is better than it has ever been around the world, because of better grape growing and better technology. Then they taste a 2024 Pigato from Liguria from the Durin label. It has some lemon blossom in the aroma. It’s delicious and has a lot of personality. Pigato only grows in Italy in Piedmont and Liguria, both are cool climates. Wine makers need to plant grapes like Pigato here in California. Pithos Rosso and Verduno Pelaverga Next is a red, Pithos Rosso. The bottle is 750 ml but has a squat shape. The grape variety is Nero d’Avola and is native to Sicily. The label says both Italy and Sicily. It is red, but light and delicious and not particularly tannic. Last is a 2024 Verduno Pelaverga from Fratelli Alessandria. It is a light grape from the Piemonte province, where Barolo and Barbera also grow. Pelaverga was planted as a blending grape. After 1945, they sent cuttings to UC Davis. Then, the vineyard was bulldozed and became extinct in Italy. But UC Davis had cuttings and now they have replanted it in Italy. It is as light as a Rosé but it has the taste and flavor of red wine. It’s Dan’s favorite recent discovery. Bottle Barn has it for $29.95, down from $45. It has the flavor profile of a good Barolo. Black pepper, violets, green herb, “complexity without knowing what it is.” Pelaverga is very rare here. The importer is North Berkeley Imports. Dan says they are committed to the wines they import.

    36 min

  8. May 1

    Ludor Wines winemaker Sal de la Cruz

    Sal de la Cruz from Ludor Wines joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell in the studio on California Wine Country today. This is the first time on the show for Sal and for the winery. All of the wines that Sal has brought come from the Weiler vineyard in the Sonoma Valley AVA. They begin by tasting a red wine blend called Yuma, named after their beloved nine-year-old dog, who is on the label. It’s a very casual wine, delicious and fruity. Dan says that this is the modern era of red wine. “Drink it soon,” but it is authentic to the fruit. It is similar to Beaujolais but with better grapes. The Merlot character is right up front, and it has beautiful other nuances of black fruit. It is in a clear bottle. They wanted to show the color and break the boundaries of a traditionally dark glass. Since it isn’t meant for long aging, the clear glass is fine. It was just bottled three months ago. This is a great picnic wine, declares Daedalus. It got no wood, all made in stainless steel and unfiltered. “It feels like the French countryside,” says Daedalus and Dan agrees. The Ludor Wines 2024 Merlot Next they taste the 2024 Merlot. “This is serious stuff,” says Dan. Their vineyard has two kinds of soil, a clay loam and a sandy rocky soil. They planted it in the mid-’90s and they have been farming it for the last 25 years. Sal has been working there since he was a kid. They know the land very well. Sal says they do all the touches on all of their wines, meaning they farm it, they make it and they bottle it. Then they try to educate people about it. The name Ludor comes from his mother’s great grandmother. The family has a history in farming, mostly corn, beans and squash. (Those are the “three sisters” of native American agriculture.) ***** CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!  ***** The Ludor Wines 2024 Cabernet Sauvignon The next wine to taste is a 2024 Cabernet Sauvignon from the same property, the Weiler vineyard in the Sonoma Valley AVA. The vineyard is on the valley floor. It spent about 17 months in French oak before bottling. Dan says you can tell it was made classically and will age well. He suggests leaving a wine open for a few hours and if it improves, that means it will also improve with some years in the bottle. Five more years would be great for this wine but at least you should aerate it with a decanter. Cabernet Sauvignon is quite tannic so have a steak or something with it. About 30 years ago Napa and Sonoma wineries would release Cabernets for sale when they were roughly four and a half years old. Before tasting the fourth wine today, at minute 16, listen to Daedalus riff on the Yuma wine, for 20 seconds it’s a brainstorm the captures and expresses that wine’s character with just words. The Ludor Wines 2024 Cabernet Franc Sal explains how they pay careful attention to the ripening of this wine. They have to sacrifice some grapes, since a big crop load doesn’t produce the ripening that they want. It responds to air faster than Cabernet Sauvignon.

    38 min
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4.5
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About

Live Radio Show & Podcast

Information

  • Creator
    Dan Berger & Daedalus Howell
  • Years Active
    2017 - 2026
  • Episodes
    100
  • Rating
    Clean
  • Show Website
    California Wine Country

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