California Wine Country

Steve Jaxon & Dan Berger

Podcast & Radio Show

  1. MAR 27

    Darryl Miller tastings

    Dan and Darryl. Darryl Miller is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell, with wines from two Sonoma County wineries, Dehlinger Winery in the west county and Peterson Winery in Dry Creek Valley. He has been on CWC a few times, the most recent is this episode on July 18, 2025. Darryl Miller is retired from the wholesale wine business. He works with the Dehlinger winery, assisting and advising them with their sales and marketing. He even used to live on that property in the 1980s. Darryl also works as an advisor to the Peterson family in Dry Creek Valley. Dan Berger and Darryl Miller met when they were judges at a wine competition about 40 years ago. They found that they appreciated the same qualities of structure and balance in wine. For Dan, there is no such thing as a great wine that does not show good balance. There are unbalanced 100 point wines that are by definition, not great. The Goldilocks Dilemma Darryl agrees. They are either too heavy or light. They are not made well. Darryl describes the Peterson’s method as zero manipulation. They grow the right fruit the right way and then they don’t have to intervene. The wine being tasted is a 2024 “3V” made of three Italian white grapes whose names begin with V. Vernaccia 37%, with a kind of chalkiness to it. Darryl says it’s like Chablis. They also blend in some Vermentino which has some pineapple tropical fruit flavors. Then some Verdello, which has grapefruit rind flavors, similar to a Sauvignon Blanc. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!  They make the three wines separately and then blend them. There is also a red blend, of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. They call it GSM or GMS, in order of appearance. Blends Are Back Blends are becoming popular again. This is because winemakers find that if they have Grenache and some other varieties, they can end up with a better wine by blending them. That is better than making single varietals  which by themselves may not be as good as the blend. Dan objects to blends that don’t tell you what is in the bottle. We want to know what is in it. It is not illegal to do, but does not help. The Peterson wines are very careful about telling the percentages in blends.

    42 min
  2. MAR 20

    Ross Cobb, winemaker

    Dan and Ross. Winemaker Ross Cobb is our guest again today on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. He is the founder of Cobb Wines. Ross was on the show once before, on this episode in January of 2025. Daedalus Howell remembers meeting Ross Cobb maybe 30 years ago, when they were both at the beginning of their careers. They begin by tasting a Chardonnay from 2023, which Dan describes as a nice cool vintage. The vineyard is in the eastern Sonoma County in the Sebastopol area. It was planted in the late 1990s. He got some Pinot Noir from the new owner, and he also got some Chardonnay. He considers this to be one of the best Chardonnay vineyards around. The vines are mature, it gets 10% new oak, full malolactic fermentation, 22 months in barrel, and it’s not overly done. Dan Berger gives credit to all of those techniques, which gives it a combination or richness and tartness. The texture is rich and the aftertaste is delicate. It is only 12.5% ABV so it won’t knock you over. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!  Ross describes how his parents planted the vineyard in 1988-1989. He attended UC Santa Cruz where he designed his own program focussed on the living soil. Then he met all of his neighbors who had vineyards, names like Dehlinger and Rocchioli. Then he worked for Ferrari-Carano, Williams-Selyem and then for Flowers. Next they taste a Riesling. Ross and Dan Berger both get their Riesling grapes from Cole Ranch. Both of them make it dry and Dan credits Ross for a great product aimed at Riesling purists – like Dan. After the break they taste the Pinot Noirs. Ross Cobb says the 2023 Pinot Noir from Emmaline Ann Vineyard was his transformational vintage. He recalls the 2006 crop when he picked at 21.9 Brix. At first he was afraid that he had made a bad decision. But it turned out well, because of the secondary chestnut and spicy aromas that emerged. Dan Berger says 2006 was the greatest age-worthy vintage Sonoma County history. “This is astounding!” says Dan. He likes it because it was a cool year. Dan says Ross did well to pick early because the problem with a lot of wine is over-ripeness. Dan observes that this year’s crop is dealing with 90-degree daytime highs in March. He also thinks that we will also have some cooler weather in the next month. Dan says the best weather report in the world comes rerom Abacela Winery. Greg Jones who has a PhD in climate science, publishes excellent meteorological reports on the western US. His reports are free online.  Look for the Current Weather and Climate Report on this page. The last tasting is the 2021 Doc’s Ranch Vineyard. It is another representation of Sonoma Coast style. They have 22 acres of vines at high altitude. It is risky, and can yield as little as half a ton per acre. Ross calls it a good place for ripening in September and October. This vintage was picked in late October.

    39 min
  3. MAR 13

    Bob Cabral

    Dan, Daedalus and Bob. Bob Cabral is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell, and he has brought four of his wines to taste and describe. He was one of our very first guests on this episode of June 21, 2017, a couple of years after he launched his own label, Bob Cabral Wines. Since that first podcast appearance in 2017, Bob has been on California Wine Country many more times. His last time on CWC was June 14, 2024, with a double episode. In the first part of that show, Bob talked about his own wine company and about having just finished his 45th harvest. The other part of that show was with Mark Tchelistcheff, to talk about the film André the Voice of Wine. Bob Cabral started in the wine business in 1980. The Judgement of Paris had happened in 1976 and it got a generation of future winemakers like Bob interested in wine. He studied winemaking at Fresno State, then  found a job working at the bottom of the totem pole as a “cellar rat,” hoisting barrels, etc. Dan points out that most great careers in the wine industry have begun this way. The experience is critical and all of one’s knowledge is goes into the work and to teaching others. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!  You Have to Clean and Scrub! Dan took a two-day intensive wine course at UC Davis in 1976 and he had to be completely alert the whole time. The most important class he took was Winery Sanitation. Bob says it was also the first thing his professors at Fresno State told him. You can’t control mother nature, but you can control sanitation. You have to clean and scrub. A lot of Bob’s fellow students became famous and influential winemakers. It was a generation that caught the wave growth in the California wine industry. The first wine they are tasting is Bob Cabral’s 2019 Wildflower Riesling. Daedalus notices tropical fruit flavors. It comes from two vineyards on the Sonoma Coast. Bob fermented it in a concrete amphora. He used native yeast and no barrel aging. Dan says this is what the Germans do, they age Riesling. Dan believes that great white wine age well, such as some of his Italian Arneis. Supporting the Local Community All of the proceeds from Bob Cabral Wines after operating expenses go to charity to support local causes. Dan appreciates how important that is for the community of Sonoma County. One out of every five people work in the wine industry, directly or indirectly. Dan notices that in addition to the tropical fruit, it has “TDM” which is a ‘petroleum’ taste. TDN stands for 1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalene. It gives a SLIGHT gasoline or kerosene aroma. The traditional German Riesling bottle shape (“Schlegel” in German) will be either green, blue or brown, depending on the region. The shape of the bottle can be different from red wine bottles because the shoulders and the push-up bottom are there to to trap sediment. White wines don’t have sediment, which makes the flute bottle OK for it. The next wine is the 2024 Chardonnay whose name is Acoustic Sunset. Neutral barrels give more flavors than mere stainless steel. Dan says this wine has an expressive personality. The secret to this one is there was no ML so the pH and the acid stayed the same. So this wine has all the pieces, which will merge and combine with one to three years in the bottle. He only made four barrels of this one. Bob tells a lot of stories about famous musicians he has met, who were interested in his wine. The next two bottles to taste are Pinot Noirs. The wines have proprietary names, Troubador and Fillmore, and the fruit comes from several different vineyards. The Russian River one, Troubador, has all the features of RRV, says Dan. The last tasting is a library wine, a 2018 Pinot Noir called Fillmore. He calls it “a one-off” because he got some special fruit once only. He only made six barrels.

    47 min
  4. MAR 6

    Drew Damskey

    Daedalu, Drew, Daisy and Dan. Our guests today are Drew and Daisy Damskey, who join Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. Drew’s father and Daisy’s husband Kerry Damskey has been on this show several times, most recently on this episode of March 1, 2023. The first wine in our glasses is a 2023 Semillon, made by Drew Damskey for Palmieri Wines. This white wine grape is relatively common in Hunter Valley in Australia. It is also the grape used for white Bordeaux and is a common blending grape. This Semillon comes from a vineyard planted in 1886 and is the second oldest Semillon vineyard in the world, called Monte Rosa vineyard. The vineyard is at the top of Moon Mountain which is above the town of Sonoma in the Mayacama range. Drew considers it to be ideal for Bordeaux varietals. They make about 75 to 100 cases of this wine per year. That 2023 Semillon has some of clean, crisp freshness of Sauvignon Blanc but with the weight, richness and texture of a Chardonnay. Dan “Lay It Down” Berger Dan would give it a minimum of three years of aging. He has 30-year-old Semillons that are still good. Dan contends that all wine ages, even whites. Dan opened a 1990 French Chardonnay the other day that was “just about perfect.” Speaking of perfection, Dan had a 1991 red wine from New Zealand, a Syrah, which Dan called perfect. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!  The next wine tasted is Daisy’s Chardonnay, which Drew and his father made for Daisy. They were making only red wines for a long time but Daisy wanted them to make a white wine too. So father and son got some fruit and made the wine. Dan says it’s terrific, with great presence and acidity and a little bit of oak character. The fruit comes from Dorell vineyard. Drew explains that the wine undergoes Malolactic Fermentation,

    49 min
  5. FEB 27

    David Ramey

    David and Dan David Ramey, founder of Ramey Wine Cellars, joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. He has been on CWC before, but it was a while ago, on this episode in 2018 and again here in 2019. The weather today is unseasonably warm, but it doesn’t affect Dan’s work. People tell him it seems he has the greatest job in the world. They think he just has to drink wine and write about it. But Dan actually drinks very little, when tasting and evaluating wine. The better the wine, the less of it you need to drink to appreciate high quality. “It’s not about volume, it’s about character,” says Dan. “Wine is food. It’s fermented grape juice and it goes with food. You might get a little relaxed but you you don’t drink wine to get drunk,” declares David. Dan reminds everyone, “Life’s too short to drink bad wine.” Dan Berger declares that Chardonnay today is better than it has ever been, and he thinks David Ramey can explain why. David thinks that the Chardonnay producers went down the wrong path, when rich, hedonistic wines, fruit bombs, were popular. Robert Parker was an influential wine critic and he liked that style. David Ramey’s Chardonnays represent a reversal of that trend and an appeal to wine lovers who know that Chardonnay can do much more than those big buttery fruit bombs that don’t age well. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!  MS in Enology David Ramey describes his pathway into the profession of winemaking. He grew up in Sunnyvale, a schoolmate of Apple co-founder Steve Wozniak. He attended UC Santa Cruz from 1969-1973, when the campus was brand new. He worked as a waiter where he also had the chance to taste wine. He thought he would go and teach English in Colombia, but he never made it there. He was driving from Mexicali to Hermosillo and one day he describes a coup de foudre, French for a lightning strike, when he realized he should make wine. It’s something that people like, it’s not bad for the environment, it’s an aesthetic statement, lot to like about it. So he applied to UC Davis in enology. He had to take all his college level math and science courses at San Jose State before he could start the major. He graduated with a Master of Science in Enology. Several of his fellow students became famous winemakers. They are tasting one of David’s Chardonnays, which is not chilled. “Chardonnay is the red wine of whites.” Both whites he brought are 2015s and the reds are both 2013s. Both combine richness, strong acidity and good structure. Claret David went to France after he graduated. “I’m a classicist,” he says. He wanted to go where people have been making wine for a very long time, to learn how to do it. He ended up working in Bordeaux. Then he worked a harvest in Australia. They processed 37,000 tons of grapes that time. Next they taste the Claret. That name is protected now but David says they can still use it, they are grandfathered in. It is a generic British English term for a Bordeaux wine. The French claimed it, despite the fact that there is no place named Claret. It’s just a generic word, but it was ceded to the EU in trade negotiations. Ramey also treademarked two varietal blend names for themselves. Their Left Bank Blend is a Cabernet based blend. Template is another name, modeled on the Right Bank, so it is Merlot based. This is all with Sonoma County grapes. Dan adds that the name Ramey on the label indicates a higher level of quality, by itself.

    48 min
  6. FEB 20

    Matt Duffy from Vaughn Duffy Wines

    Dan and Matt Matt Duffy from Vaughn Duffy Wines is back on California Wine Country. Matt has been on the show before, on this episode last summer. Dan Berger is back after taking last week off to attend the Anderson Valley White Wine festival, which we previewed on a few recent CWC episodes. He was in charge of the Riesling table with 12 different ones. They will hold a Pinot Noir festival in about five weeks, which we will hear about too. Matt Duffy was on CWC once before, last summer. Vaughn Duffy Wines specializes in single vineyard Pinot Noir. Their wines have captured many awards. Today Matt has brought four Pinot Noirs, all from different vineyards in the Petaluma Gap AVA. They are all from 2024. There are 3 vineyard designates, and one called Petaluma Gap which is a blend of Pinot Noir all from within the AVA. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!  This wine has characteristics of a Petaluma Gap Pinot Noir. A Russian River Valley Pinot Noir has a little more raspberry and strawberry flavors. This one has a little more rustic character that reminds Dan a little more of Burgundy than one from RRV. Matt notices that the wines from Petaluma Gap makes purple, darker fruit compared to the bright reds from the Russian River Valley. The wind keeps things cooler in the growing season which lengthens the ripening season and limits the yields. Pinot Noir: a delicate balance Dan describes Pinot Noir as being on the edge between being too light or too heavy. A winemaker has to be careful through harvest and production, “…because if you try to get too much or too little (from it), it either lacks something or has too much of something.” Daedalus finds Pinot Noir sometimes too dark or too light but this one is “just right.”  Dan says you can run the risk of making an overripe wine anywhere with any varietal, but there is more forgiveness in some varieties and in some regions. If you harvest Cabernet a little too late, you can get away with it. If you harvest Pinot Noir a little bit too late in some regions, “…you’re going to get an odd configuration of characteristics.” And those aren’t necessarily a benefit to anyone. The first wine they taste is the blend, of Sangiacomo’s Roberts Road vineyard and Uberroth vineyard, both in the Petaluma Gap. Later in the show they will taste single vineyard Pinot Noir bottlings from each of those vineyards, plus one from Secret Hill vineyard. 🍷

    51 min
  7. FEB 13

    Miro Cellars

    Miro Tcholakov is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell, and Melissa Galliani is also in the studio today.  He operates Miro Cellars and is also winemaker for Trentadue Wines. Miro has been on CWC before, on this episode back on September 9, 2020. and his last appearance was this episode on April 5, 2024. Miro has brought a Chardonnay, the only Chardonnay he makes now. The vineyard belongs to the De Loach family. It was given “incomplete” malolactic fermentation, so it doesn’t have too much “popcorny” flavor. This wine won a gold medal at the SF Chronicle competition. Miro grew up in Bulgaria. Sometimes he refers to it as “way back east.” After college in Bulgaria, he came to the US on a student visa. He had good grades in biology and, also needed to do two years of military service. His degree was agronomy engineering, specialized in viticulture. Then in 1990 he won access to an exchange program to the US. He chose viticulture and he was the only one of the six who went to the west coast. He worked a standard harvest internship at Dry Creek Vineyards. The night before he was supposed to leave, they asked him to stay, to cover for an injured colleague. He rose through the ranks and nine years later he took a full time winemaker job at Trentadue. When he was growing up in Bulgaria, his grandfather made wine. They made about 1000 bottles of wine per year. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!  Pinot Noir too Next they taste the Pinot Noir. Miro doesn’t usually make Pinot Noir. He was known for making Petite Syrah and Zinfandel, but he wanted to try it just to say he can do that too. He gives credit to the work in the vineyard. “I am in opportunistic buyer…” of Pinot Noir grapes. It won a double gold medal from the SF Chronicle competition. Daedalus tastes dry cherry, old books, dustiness. Miro thinks maybe it’s from the oak or the terroir. It’s supple and round. It might handle about five or six years of aging. Daedalus’ judgement: “Super drinkable, dangerously drinkable.” Later the discussion turns to the wine market and everyone’s opinion of how this downturn looks from their point of view. Aurelio Aguilar who is twenty-six, speaks for his generation. He suggests that winemakers have an important opportunity to get young people familiar with experiences like wine tasting. Then Miro tells his story of how the cave woman invented wine. Next they taste the Grenache named after his daughter, Cuvée Sasha. He started making it when she was born, 23 years ago, and for the last 10 years the grapes have come from the same vineyard on the shore of Lake Mendocino. Grenache is a good wine for any occasion, sort of like Pinot but spicier, and can have a hidden bite of tannin when younger. It’s fruity but can also be earthy. It is easy to pair with anything, Miro suggests grilled salmon or tuna. It can benefit from chilling, too. Melissa suggests bringing Grenache as a hostess gift, for it novelty and quality. Affordable Luxury “You can make high quality wines at a reasonable price. It’s possible. I’ve been doing it for twenty-three years.”

    44 min
  8. FEB 6

    Pour and Explore at Rodney Strong

    Dan Berger, Chris O’Gorman and Daedalus Howell. Chris O’Gorman and Chris Sawyer are our guests on California Wine Country, to present Pour and Explore at Rodney Strong Vineyards on Feb. 12. Chris O’Gorman is in the studio and Chris Sawyer joins us on the phone. Chris O’Gorman has been on CWC before, his last appearance was this episode last August. It was actually Daedalus Howell’s first CWC episode as full time host of the Drive. Dan has brought one of the wines he will be pouring at the Riesling table next week at the Anderson Valley White Wine Festival on February 14th. The 2021 Smith-Madrone Riesling is a dry wine but not as dry as some of the really bone dry types. Dan likes it with Thai food. The winery is releasing their 2022 Riesling now. This is the same hillside where Stony Hill winery also makes Riesling on an adjacent property. Chris Sawyer is with us on the phone from Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. He is there to judge the American Fine Wine Competition. It is one of the largest invitational wine competitions in the US. It is taking place at Florida International University. Pour and Explore at Rodney Strong Vineyards Chris O’Gorman describes Pour and Explore which is taking place next Thursday night, February 12, from 5:30 to 7:30 PM at Rodney Strong Vineyards. Pour and Explore will feature Bordeaux varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot, by themselves or blended. Dan enjoys the company, since there are winemakers pouring the wine, so they can answer his questions. CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!  The first tasting today is a Rodney Strong Bordeaux blend named Symmetry. Rodney Strong has been producing Symmetry since 1996. Single varietal wines are not as common in France as they are here. They realized that Chateau St. Jean provided a model of a successful blended red. This Symmetry wine is a 2021 vintage. The label shows it is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon. With other wines being released at 2 and 3 years old, this wine is different. Cabernet Sauvignon can’t be too young. Chris O’Gorman describes the qualities that each of the five grapes bring to the blend. Next they taste a wine from Alexander’s Crown, one of the most historic red wines in Sonoma County. The first Alexander’s Crown vintage was 1974. This is the first single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from Sonoma County.

    50 min
4.5
out of 5
12 Ratings

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