The Temple of Surf Podcast

The Temple of Surf

The Temple of Surf is a living archive of surf culture. Aloha Everyone and welcome to a new episode of The Temple of Surf - The Podcast. We will give you full access to the best surfers, skaters, shapers, surfboards collectors, shop owners in the world! Discover with us their stories, their greatest successes, amazing behind the scenes and much more!

  1. 2d ago

    Inside Curvaceous Surfboards | Keitaro Oshima on Science, Craft & Design

    Can science help create a better surfboard or does the magic still come from the hands of the shaper? This week on The Temple of Surf Podcast, we travel to Japan for a fascinating conversation with Keitaro Oshima, founder, shaper and builder behind Curvaceous Surfboards. Born in Tokyo and raised in Yokohama, Keitaro represents a new generation of surfboard builders approaching an ancient question from a very different perspective: What makes a surfboard truly work? Keitaro graduated from the University of Tokyo in 2023, but his academic journey unexpectedly became connected to surfing. While at university, he began researching surfboard structures. At the same time, curiosity pushed him beyond theory. He started teaching himself how to actually build surfboards. Today, Keitaro personally handles the entire process behind his boards from shaping and glassing to the final finish. That combination of research and craftsmanship makes his story particularly interesting. Through Curvaceous Surfboards, Keitaro explores the relationship between hydrodynamics, curves, materials, craftsmanship and ultimately the feeling a surfer experiences when standing on a board. His philosophy is beautifully simple: Built beautiful. Works well. The name Curvaceous comes from his fascination with the beauty of curves, but these boards aren't designed simply to look beautiful. Every curve has consequences. An outline changes how a board moves through the water. Rails influence the relationship between board and wave. Bottom contours, volume, length and fin configuration can completely transform the experience under a surfer's feet. And Keitaro doesn't see his existing models as untouchable finished products. They are starting points. The surfer's body, the waves they ride, their existing quiver and the feeling they are searching for can all influence how an individual board evolves. In this episode, we explore surfboard shaping from both the scientific and human perspective. Can the feeling of a great surfboard actually be measured? What does hand shaping offer in an age of CNC machines and increasingly sophisticated production? How much should young shapers learn from the generations that came before them? And where does experimentation begin? We also explore the extraordinary culture of Japanese craftsmanship, Keitaro's unconventional path into shaping, the importance of building a surfboard from beginning to end, and his search for new possibilities without losing respect for surfboard history. Curvaceous produces everything from fish and twin fins to mid-lengths, single fins, gliders and noseriders. But behind all those different designs is one central idea: A surfboard should do more than function. It should create an emotional response. Something that makes you want to pick it up. Study its curves. Take it to the ocean. And discover what it can do. This is a conversation about surfboard design, shaping, science, craftsmanship, experimentation, Japanese surf culture and the endless pursuit of a better feeling on a wave. 🎙️ Listen to the full conversation with Keitaro Oshima on The Temple of Surf Podcast.

  2. Sep 24

    Alessandro Marcianò | From Italian Surf Pioneer to the Giant Waves of Nazaré

    What makes a surfer, after decades in the ocean, decide to start again and enter an entirely different world? In this episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, I sit down with Italian surfer and big-wave rider Alessandro Marcianò for a conversation about a remarkable life built around surfing. Alessandro's story begins far away from the giant waves of Nazaré. Growing up in Rome and surfing the Italian coastline, he became part of a generation that helped establish and develop surf culture in a country where finding waves often requires patience, knowledge and an obsession with the ocean. Competition became an important part of his journey. He travelled, surfed internationally and eventually created Italia Surf Expo, helping bring surfers, brands and different generations of the Italian surf community together. But then came a meeting that changed everything. In Portugal, Alessandro crossed paths with legendary big-wave surfer Garrett McNamara. The destination was Nazaré. And a completely new chapter began. Alessandro entered the world of tow-in surfing and started learning what it really takes to face one of the most powerful and unpredictable waves on the planet. In December 2015, he surfed an enormous wave at Nazaré estimated at around 18 metres, establishing an Italian big-wave benchmark and announcing his arrival on the international big-wave scene. But this conversation isn't simply about numbers. We explore what happens before those extraordinary moments. The preparation. The equipment. The relationship with your tow partner and safety team. The ability to read the ocean. The decisions made in seconds. And, inevitably, fear. How do you control it when the consequences of a mistake can be enormous? How does experience change the way you approach a giant wave? And where is the line between courage and calculated risk? We also look back at the evolution of Italian surfing, from its early days to the much larger community that exists today, and discuss how Alessandro has watched surfing itself transform throughout his life. From the Mediterranean to Portugal, from traditional competition to tow-in surfing, his journey demonstrates how surfing can continue opening completely unexpected doors even after you think one chapter of your life in the ocean is coming to an end. Because perhaps the most fascinating part of Alessandro Marcianò's story isn't one giant wave. It's the decision to keep evolving. To remain curious. To accept being a beginner again. And to continue searching for what might be waiting beyond the next horizon. This is a conversation about Italian surf history, Nazaré, big-wave surfing, fear, preparation, progression, longevity and a lifetime connected to the ocean. 🎙️ Listen to the full conversation with Alessandro Marcianò on The Temple of Surf Podcast.

  3. Sep 9

    Camden Hoover | Surfing Without Limits: Shortboard, Longboard & Beyond

    What happens when you refuse to let surfing fit into just one category? In this episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, I sit down with Camden Hoover, a surfer whose relationship with the ocean crosses different boards, different waves, and increasingly, different sides of competitive surfing. Camden is equally comfortable expressing herself on a shortboard or a longboard, bringing an approach to surfing built around versatility, progression, style, and a genuine love for being in the water. But her journey is evolving. Beyond competing and riding waves herself, Camden has also stepped into surf judging, giving her a completely different perspective on performance. Instead of only thinking about what she wants to do on a wave, she now has to observe other surfers, analyze their decisions, understand criteria, and evaluate what separates one performance from another. That experience brings us to an important recent chapter in her story. Camden participated as a judge at the 2026 Virginia Beach Super Girl Surf Festival, held over Labor Day weekend, September 5–7. Surfing was at the heart of the three-day event, anchored by a World Surf League QS4000 women's competition and surrounded by a much broader celebration of women in sport, music, wellness, and community. For Camden, however, what interests us is the view from the judging side. How does your understanding of surfing change when you stop being the competitor and start evaluating what is happening on the wave? Does judging make you look differently at your own surfing? And what can someone who rides both shortboards and longboards bring to that perspective? These questions form just one part of a much broader conversation. Throughout the episode, we explore Camden's personal surfing journey, her relationship with shortboarding and longboarding, competitive surfing, style, progression, and the experiences that continue to shape the surfer she is becoming. We talk about what draws her back to the ocean and why surfing doesn't need to be defined by one board, one discipline, or one idea of what a surfer is supposed to be. That versatility is perhaps what makes Camden's story particularly interesting. Modern surfing offers more possibilities than ever before. Competition can coexist with creativity. Performance can coexist with style. Shortboards and longboards can offer completely different experiences while sharing the same fundamental connection with the wave. And now, by experiencing surfing from the judge's chair as well as from the lineup, Camden is discovering yet another dimension of the sport. This episode is a conversation about surfing, competition, longboarding, shortboarding, judging, progression, surf culture, and following your own path through the ocean. Whether you love competitive surfing, traditional longboarding, high-performance shortboarding, or simply the feeling of riding waves, Camden's story is a reminder that there is no single way to be a surfer. 🎙️ Listen to the full conversation with Camden Hoover on The Temple of Surf Podcast.

  4. Sep 2

    Alo Slebir | Mavericks, Monster Waves & the Pursuit of Progression

    On December 23, 2024, Alessandro "Alo" Slebir rode a wave at Mavericks that immediately sent shockwaves through the surfing world. The first estimates were extraordinary. Some believed the wave could have exceeded 100 feet, potentially making it the biggest wave ever surfed. After months of analysis and debate, the official measurement came in at 76 feet—still an absolutely monumental wave and the winner of the 2025 Men's Biggest Wave award. But this episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast is about much more than one number. It's about the young surfer behind the wave. Based in Santa Cruz, California, Alo belongs to an exciting new generation of big-wave surfers pushing the limits at Mavericks, one of the most powerful and dangerous surf breaks on Earth. His story is not the traditional story of a superstar athlete surrounded by a massive organization. Alo has balanced his pursuit of big waves with everyday life and work, dedicating his time, energy, and resources to being ready whenever the North Pacific comes alive. Together with his tow partner Luca Padua, Alo has spent years studying Mavericks, understanding its moods, refining equipment, preparing for extreme conditions, and developing the level of trust required when the consequences of a mistake can be enormous. Then came December 23. A giant North Pacific swell arrived at Mavericks. Alo and Luca were there. And when one extraordinary wall of water appeared on the horizon, there was no hesitation. Luca put Alo into position, Alo committed and one of the most talked-about big-wave rides of recent years followed. In this episode, we go beyond the viral images and explore what actually happens behind moments like this. We talk about Mavericks, big-wave surfing, tow surfing, preparation, fear, equipment, teamwork, risk, progression, and the mentality required to put yourself in the right position when a wave of that magnitude arrives. We also discuss what happened after the ride. Suddenly, Alo's name was being discussed around the world. Surfing media and mainstream news debated whether he had broken the world record and become the first surfer to ride a 100-foot wave. Alo's reaction says a lot about the surfer himself. For him, the exact number was never the most important part. It was simply the biggest wave of his life. And perhaps that attitude tells us everything we need to know about this new generation of big-wave surfers. They aren't searching only for records. They are searching for progression, extraordinary experiences, and the next opportunity to discover what might be possible. This is a conversation about much more than one giant wave. It's about commitment, friendship, calculated risk, humility, and a life built around the ocean. 🎙️ Listen to the full conversation with Alessandro "Alo" Slebir on The Temple of Surf Podcast.

  5. Aug 23

    Eric Rebière | The French Surf Pioneer Who Chose Giant Waves

    From professional competition to some of the most powerful waves on the planet, Eric Rebière has lived an extraordinary surfing journey. In this episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, I sit down with Eric Rebière, a pioneer of European professional surfing, two-time European professional champion, and the first French surfer to qualify for surfing's elite World Tour. Eric's story takes us back to a very different era of professional surfing. Growing up surfing in Brazil before moving to France as a teenager, Eric pursued a dream that, at the time, very few European surfers had achieved: competing against the best surfers in the world. After years of traveling, competing, and fighting his way through the qualification system, Eric made history when he qualified for the elite World Tour for the 2004 season. His achievement helped open the door for a new generation of European surfers and came before France became the major force in international surfing that we know today. But Eric's surfing story didn't end with competition. In many ways, it was only the beginning. After experiencing professional surfing at the highest level, Eric increasingly turned his attention toward another passion: big waves. From Nazaré and Belharra to powerful waves across Galicia, Ireland, and beyond, Eric became part of the generation pushing European big-wave surfing into new territory. In this conversation, we explore both sides of his remarkable career. We talk about the reality of professional surfing, competing at the highest level, the evolution of European surf culture, and what it meant to represent France during an era when European surfers were still establishing themselves on the international stage. We also dive deep into the world of big-wave surfing. Eric shares his perspective on preparation, risk, experience, equipment, teamwork, and the mentality required when the waves become truly serious. What changes inside a surfer after decades in the ocean? How do you approach fear? How do you decide when to push your limits and when to respect what the ocean is telling you? Eric has experienced surfing through several generations and from completely different perspectives: competitive surfer, World Tour athlete, big-wave charger, and lifelong student of the ocean. That makes this episode much more than a conversation about giant waves. It's a conversation about surf history, progression, longevity, passion, and the evolution of a surfer's relationship with the ocean. Whether you are interested in big-wave surfing, Nazaré, European surfing history, professional surfing, surf culture, or simply love hearing authentic stories from people who have dedicated their lives to waves, this episode is for you. Eric Rebière helped break barriers for European surfing and then continued searching for new limits long after the competition jersey came off. 🎙️ Listen to the full conversation with Eric Rebière on The Temple of Surf Podcast.

  6. Aug 16

    Matt Bromley | Big Waves, Surfing & a Life Built Around the Ocean

    What does it take to build a life around surfing some of the most powerful waves on the planet? In this episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast, I sit down with South African big wave surfer Matt Bromley for a wide-ranging conversation about surfing, big waves, adventure, preparation, mindset, and a life shaped by the ocean. Growing up in Cape Town, South Africa, Matt developed his surfing surrounded by an extraordinary coastline and a culture of surfers willing to challenge serious waves. From an early age, the ocean became much more than a place to surf, it became the environment that would ultimately shape his life and career. Matt's journey has taken him from the powerful waves of South Africa to some of the most respected and intimidating surf breaks around the world. Jaws, Mavericks, Puerto Escondido, Pipeline and the heavy reefs of Indonesia are all part of a surfing life built around seeking powerful swells and unforgettable experiences. But behind the spectacular images of big wave surfing is an enormous amount of work. During our conversation, Matt takes us beyond the highlight reels and into the reality of what it means to pursue this kind of surfing. We talk about preparation, understanding the ocean, physical conditioning, mental strength and the importance of making good decisions when conditions become serious. We discuss the relationship between risk and reward and how years of experience change the way a surfer approaches powerful waves. But this episode isn't only about big waves. It's about surfing as a way of life. Matt shares stories and lessons from his journey, his relationship with the ocean, the experiences that have shaped him, and the motivation that continues to push him toward the next swell. We also explore the mentality behind progression. How do you continue pushing your limits without losing respect for the ocean? How important is confidence? What role does fear play? And how do you know when it's time to go and when it's time to step back? These are questions that extend far beyond big wave surfing. Matt's story represents something at the heart of surf culture: the desire to explore, challenge ourselves, travel, experience powerful moments in nature and continue searching for that wave we'll remember forever. Whether you are fascinated by big wave surfing, interested in surf culture and adventure, or simply love hearing authentic stories from people who have dedicated their lives to riding waves, this episode offers a fascinating look inside the world of one of South Africa's most accomplished big wave surfers. This is not simply a conversation about how to surf bigger waves. It's a conversation about why we surf in the first place. 🎙️ Listen to the full conversation with Matt Bromley on The Temple of Surf Podcast. Subscribe and join us as we continue documenting the surfers, shapers, photographers, pioneers and characters who make surfing much more than a sport.

  7. Aug 10

    Inside the Shaping Bay | Master Shaper Fabio Giacomini

    Welcome to another episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast. This week, we are honored to welcome one of the true pioneers of Italian surfboard shaping: Fabio Giacomini. For more than four decades, Fabio has dedicated his life to the pursuit of the perfect surfboard. Beginning his shaping journey in 1980, he became one of the first professional surfboard shapers in Italy, helping to build a surf culture in a country where the sport was still in its infancy. Through decades of research, experimentation, and craftsmanship, he has earned a reputation as one of Europe's most respected custom surfboard builders. But Fabio's story goes far beyond shaping foam. It is the story of a craftsman driven by curiosity, innovation, and an unwavering passion for helping surfers unlock their full potential. Every surfboard that leaves his shaping bay represents thousands of hours of experience, countless prototypes, and a relentless desire to refine every curve, rail, rocker, and contour. In this conversation, Fabio takes us back to the early days of surfing in Italy, when finding quality equipment, information, and even suitable waves required determination and creativity. He shares how those pioneering years shaped his philosophy and why hand shaping remains, in his view, one of the purest expressions of surfboard design. We also explore the evolution of surfboard technology, from traditional polyurethane blanks to modern materials and construction methods. Fabio explains how innovation should never replace craftsmanship, but instead serve as a tool to create better-performing boards while preserving the unique relationship between the surfer, the shaper, and the wave. Throughout the episode, we discuss the importance of understanding each surfer as an individual. A magic surfboard is never simply copied from another design, it is created through listening, experience, and an intimate understanding of how every surfer approaches the ocean. Fabio shares fascinating insights into the design process, the influence of decades spent testing boards, and the lessons he has learned from shaping for surfers of every level. As the founder of PIKE Surf, the creator of Italy's first professional hand-shaping academy, and an innovator who continues to push the boundaries of surfboard design, Fabio has inspired generations of European surfers and aspiring shapers. His contribution extends far beyond the boards themselves; he has helped cultivate a culture of craftsmanship and respect for the art of shaping. Whether you are passionate about surfboard design, fascinated by the history of European surfing, or simply searching for the story behind a lifetime devoted to excellence, this episode offers a rare opportunity to learn from one of the industry's true masters. At The Temple of Surf Podcast, our mission is to preserve the stories of the people who continue to shape surfing—both literally and figuratively. Fabio Giacomini embodies that mission through a lifetime of dedication, innovation, and passion for the craft. If you enjoy this episode, don't forget to subscribe, leave a review, and share it with fellow surfers, shapers, and anyone who appreciates the timeless art of handcrafted surfboards. Thank you for being part of The Temple of Surf community. Enjoy the episode.

  8. Aug 2

    She Charges Nazaré | Christina Gindl on Big Waves, Fear & Finding Freedom

    Welcome to another inspiring episode of The Temple of Surf Podcast. This week, I am joined by Christina Gindl, Austrian big wave surfer, ocean adventurer, filmmaker, and one of the most inspiring voices in modern surfing. Born in the Austrian mountains, Christina's path to surfing was anything but conventional. After moving abroad and discovering life on the ocean, she fell in love with surfing, eventually settling in Portugal, where she has become known for charging some of the Atlantic's most powerful waves, including the legendary breaks around Nazaré and Ericeira. Today, she is also an accomplished freediver, storyteller, and filmmaker, constantly exploring the relationship between fear, resilience, and the ocean. In this episode, we dive into Christina's remarkable journey—from growing up far from the sea to becoming one of Europe's most respected female big wave surfers. We discuss what it takes to prepare mentally and physically for giant waves, why fear can become one of our greatest teachers, and how surfing continues to shape her outlook on life. We also explore her passion for freediving, the importance of breathing techniques, and the unique connection between body and mind when facing the immense power of the ocean. Christina shares how these experiences have helped her grow both as an athlete and as a person, reminding us that the biggest battles often happen within ourselves. The conversation also touches on creativity and storytelling. Through her latest documentary project, Christina invites viewers beyond the spectacular images of giant waves, revealing the emotional and personal challenges that come with pursuing an extraordinary life. Her work offers an honest perspective on identity, recovery, and the resilience required to return after setbacks. Whether you're passionate about big wave surfing, surf culture, ocean exploration, freediving, or simply enjoy hearing inspiring life stories, this episode is filled with valuable insights and unforgettable experiences. Topics include: • Big wave surfing • Nazaré and Portugal's powerful coastline • Fear and mental preparation • Freediving and breathwork • Surf travel • Ocean conservation • Surf filmmaking • Resilience and personal growth • Women's surfing • Living a life guided by passion At The Temple of Surf Podcast, our mission is to preserve and celebrate the stories of the people who continue to shape surfing around the world. Christina Gindl represents a new generation of waterwomen who combine athletic performance, creativity, and a deep respect for the ocean. If you enjoyed this conversation, please subscribe to the channel, leave a comment, and share this episode with fellow surfers and ocean lovers. Thank you for being part of The Temple of Surf community. Enjoy the episode!

4.8
out of 5
17 Ratings

About

The Temple of Surf is a living archive of surf culture. Aloha Everyone and welcome to a new episode of The Temple of Surf - The Podcast. We will give you full access to the best surfers, skaters, shapers, surfboards collectors, shop owners in the world! Discover with us their stories, their greatest successes, amazing behind the scenes and much more!

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