Facet Nation: A Gemmology Podcast

Facet Nation

Facet Nation is a new kind of gemmology podcast. Rigorous enough for serious students, but fascinating and funny enough for anyone craving an inside look at gemstones, jewellery and the shadowy world surrounding them. Part revision aide, part storytime, Lucinda and Simon are your qualified guides to the world’s most ancient treasures.

  1. 4D AGO

    22. Interview: Justin Prim - gemcutter, author, teacher and historian

    Send us a text In this episode of Facet Nation, hosts Lucinda and Simon welcome gem cutter Justin K Prim, who shares his fascinating journey from music to gemmology. Justin discusses his experiences in the gem trade, the art and science of gem cutting, and the importance of community in the field. He also delves into his favorite gemstones, the challenges of the trade, and his exciting new projects, including a gem cutting school and a museum showcasing his extensive collection of machines and books. Find out more: https://www.magusgems.com https://www.facetingapprentice.com Takeaways Justin transitioned from a career in music to gem cutting. He discovered the gem trade through a local gem show. Lapidary clubs play a crucial role in learning gem cutting. Emeralds are Justin's favourite gemstones to cut. The gem cutting process requires patience and attention to detail. Community support is vital for aspiring gem cutters. Justin emphasises the importance of creativity in gem cutting. He is excited about his new gem cutting school and museum. The gem trade is evolving, with a growing appreciation for well-cut stones. Justin's books aim to educate and inspire future gem cutters. Titles From Music to Gemmology: Justin K Prim's Journey The Art of Gem Cutting with Justin K Prim Sound bites "I want to keep cutting." "I love cutting emeralds." "It's a mystery." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Introduction 01:13 Justin's Journey into Gem Cutting 05:19 Discovering the Gem Trade 09:06 The Evolution of Gem Cutting Community 11:45 Getting Started in Lapidary 14:47 The Art of Gem Cutting 16:18 Moving to Bangkok for Gemmology School 20:20 Building a Career in Gem Cutting 23:07 Life in France and the Gem Business 25:47 The Process of Cutting a Gemstone 27:01 The Art of Preforming and Cutting Gems 29:54 Polishing and Final Touches in Gem Cutting 31:54 Exploring Different Faceting Techniques 33:43 The Journey of Learning and Experimentation 36:30 Building a Gem Cutting School and Museum 38:15 The Passion Behind Gem Cutting and Teaching 42:29 The Evolution of Gem Cutting Techniques 47:32 Historical Insights into Gem Cutting 52:36 The Importance of Quality in Gemstones 54:57 Understanding Coloured Stones vs. Diamonds 56:28 The Journey of a Gemstone Buyer 58:53 Emotional Connections in Jewellery Making 01:04:48 The Art of Cutting Gemstones 01:06:23 Future Plans and Collaborations gemmology, gem cutting, gemstones, lapidary, gem trade, gem cutter, gem education, gem collection, gem stories, gem enthusiasts, books, gem history, museum Support the show

    1h 7m
  2. JAN 26

    21. Interview: Jeff Hapeman, Earth's Treasury. Montana Sapphires and more

    Send us a text In this episode of Facet Nation, hosts Lucinda and Simon interview Jeff Hapeman, owner of Earth's Treasury, who shares his unique journey from academia to the gem industry. Jeff discusses the fascinating world of Montana sapphires, the challenges and opportunities within the gem market, and the importance of ethical sourcing and cutting techniques. The conversation highlights the growing popularity of coloured stones and the evolving consumer preferences in jewellery design. In this engaging conversation, Jeff Hapeman discusses the intricacies of gem cutting, the inspirations behind his jewellery designs, and the fascinating world of photomicrography. He shares insights into the judging process for the Gem-A Photographer of the Year and reflects on his experiences with Montana sapphires, emphasising the beauty and uniqueness of gemstones. Takeaways Jeff transitioned from academia to gemmology after realising academia wasn't for him. Earth's Treasury focuses on American gemstones, particularly Montana sapphires. Montana sapphires offer a unique variety of colours and qualities. The gem industry faces challenges with sourcing and environmental regulations. Jeff emphasises the importance of ethical sourcing in the gem market. The rise of coloured stones reflects changing consumer preferences. Gem cutting techniques can significantly affect the appearance of stones. There is a growing awareness of the importance of quality cutting in coloured stones. Jeff believes that coloured stones are becoming more popular among younger generations. The future of gemmuology will likely see continued growth in the colored stone market. The pavilion angle needs to be steeper for optimal performance. Jewellery is bespoke and designed specifically for each stone. Sphene is a captivating gem with unique dispersion. The Garnet Supernova necklace was inspired by a collector's love for Art Deco. Colour is a key element in trendy jewellery designs. Photomicrography reveals the intricate beauty of gemstones. Judging photography involves assessing technical skill and aesthetic appeal. Montana sapphires are mined in limited quantities, often yielding smaller stones. Patience and persistence are essential in gemstone photography. The journey of a gemstone from rough to finished piece is a labor of love. Titles The Art of Gem Cutting: Insights from Jeff Hapeman Design Inspirations: Crafting Unique Jewellery Sound bites "I try to minimise the waste." "They look awesome." "I love all gems equally." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Introduction 03:24 Jeff Hapeman's Unique Journey into Gemmology 08:41 The Birth of Earth's Treasury and Business Evolution 12:14 Montana Sapphires: A Gemstone Revolution 19:55 The Appeal of Coloured Stones in Modern Jewellery 23:29 The Future of Diamonds and Coloured Gemstones 27:41 Exploring Unique Garnets and Tourmalines 29:02 Innovative Cuts for Montana Sapphires 31:35 The Art of Precision Cutting 33:30 Designing Jewellery with Timeless Inspiration 37:50 Creating Signature Jewellery Designs 42:38 The World of Photomicrography 47:41 Judging the GemA Photographer of the Year 49:26 The Art of Inclusion Photography 52:06 Patience in Photography and Nature 53:24 Experiences in the UK and Gemmology 56:14 Self-Publishing and the Journey of a Book 58:11 The Reality of Sapphire Mining gemmology, Montana sapphires, Jeff Hapeman, Earth's Treasury, gem cutting, coloured stones, jewellery design, gem industry, gem trends, American gemstones, gem cutting, jewelry design, photomicrography, gemstone

    1h 2m
  3. JAN 19

    20. The Refractometer: Gem testing and how it works

    Send us a text In this episode of Facet Nation, Simon and Lucinda delve into the intricacies of the refractometer, a crucial tool for gemmologists. They discuss its importance in identifying gemstones by measuring the refractive index, emphasising how light behaves when it enters different materials. The hosts share personal anecdotes and practical tips for using the refractometer effectively, including the significance of using the right light source and the challenges posed by contact fluid. They also highlight common pitfalls and best practices to ensure accurate readings, making the episode both informative and engaging for listeners interested in gemmology. Throughout the conversation, Simon and Lucinda provide insights into the technical aspects of the refractometer, such as total internal reflection and the importance of clean surfaces. They also touch on the emotional aspects of studying gemmology, sharing their experiences with exam preparation and the sense of community among gemmology students. The episode concludes with a light-hearted discussion about the challenges of using the refractometer and the importance of practice in mastering this essential tool. Keywords gemmology, refractometer, gemstone identification, light refraction, gemmology tools, refractive index, gemmologist tips, gemmology podcast, optical properties, gemstones, gem testing, light and optics, education, science Takeaways The refractometer is essential for identifying gemstones. Using the correct light source is crucial for accurate readings. Practice makes perfect when using the refractometer. Keep the glass table of the refractometer clean to avoid inaccurate results. Understanding total internal reflection is key to using the refractometer. Titles Mastering the Refractometer: Essential Tips for Gemmologists Unlocking the Secrets of Gemstone Identification with the Refractometer Sound bites "Not having a refractometer is like going into battle with a spoon." "Sodium yellow light is the agreed upon standard." "When in doubt, get your refractometer out." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to the Refractometer 01:52 Understanding Refraction and Its Importance 04:53 How the Refractometer Works 10:22 The Role of RI Fluid in Testing 14:10 Interpreting Shadow Edges and RI Readings 19:08 Birefringence and Its Significance 22:56 Identifying Uniaxial vs. Biaxial Stones 25:24 Understanding Biaxial Materials 28:13 Distant Vision Reading Techniques 32:52 Practical Tips for Using a Refractometer 36:29 House Rules for Refractometry 41:30 Final Thoughts on Refractometer Use

    45 min
  4. JAN 12

    19. Gemmology Exam Preparation: What to expect

    Send us a text In this episode of Facet Nation, Lucinda and Simon discuss their experiences preparing for and taking the Gem-A exams, particularly focusing on the diploma exam. They share personal anecdotes about their study strategies, the unique challenges of the Gem-A exams, and tips for managing exam anxiety. The conversation covers various aspects of preparation, including the importance of understanding the material deeply, utilizing practice papers, and the significance of real-world application in gemmology. They also reflect on their experiences during the exam days, offering insights into the practical and theory components of the exams, and conclude with advice for future candidates. Exams can be stressful, but preparation helps alleviate anxiety. Gem-A exams are known for their difficulty and require deep understanding. Different study methods work for different people; find what suits you best. Real-world application of gemmology knowledge enhances understanding. Start preparing early to build a solid foundation of knowledge. Utilise flashcards and practice papers for effective revision. Stay calm and organised during the exam to maximise performance. The invigilators are supportive and there to help you succeed. It's normal not to doubt yourself during the exam; trust your knowledge. Post-exam discussions can help clarify doubts and reduce anxiety. Navigating the Gem-A Exam Experience Mastering Gemmology: Exam Strategies and Insights Sound bites "I was really worried about the practical." "You can get two wrong and still pass." "I still have dreams about it." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Exam Season Anxiety 02:38 Understanding GEM-A Exams 05:31 Preparing for the Diploma Exam 07:53 Study Strategies and Techniques 10:47 Real-World Application of Gemmology 13:27 Tips for Early Preparation 15:51 One Month Out: Focused Revision 18:48 The Importance of Practice Papers 21:29 Final Week Preparations 24:16 Day of the Exam: Priorities and Mindset 32:07 Navigating Exam Day Challenges 37:19 Exam Preparation Strategies 41:31 Experiencing the Exam: Insights and Reflections 51:56 Coping with Post-Exam Anxiety 55:39 Final Thoughts and Advice for Future Candidates

    57 min
  5. JAN 5

    18. The Best Kept Secrets of Spinel

    Send us a text Summary In this episode, Lucinda and Simon explore the fascinating world of spinel, a gemstone often overshadowed by rubies and sapphires. They discuss its chemical composition, colour variations, and historical significance, as well as the modern rise of synthetic spinel. The conversation delves into the properties that make spinel a desirable choice for jewellery, its unique inclusions, and the testing methods used to identify it. The hosts also highlight famous spinels throughout history, emphasising the gemstone's newfound recognition and value in the gemological community. Takeaways Spinel is often confused with rubies and sapphires due to its similar appearance. The chemical composition of spinel is magnesium aluminum oxide. Spinel comes in a variety of colors, including red, blue, and black. Spinel is a durable gemstone, making it suitable for everyday wear. Historically, spinel was often misidentified as ruby, leading to its nickname 'balast ruby.' The Mahenge region of Tanzania produces some of the most valuable spinels. Spinel crystals can form in octahedral shapes, similar to diamonds. Synthetic spinel is produced using the Verneuil flame fusion method. Testing spinel involves using a refractometer to determine its refractive index. Famous spinels include the Black Prince's Ruby and the Timur Ruby. Chapters 00:00 New Year, New Beginnings 02:07 The Allure of Spinel 03:47 Understanding Spinel's Composition 07:59 The Color Spectrum of Spinel 10:55 Spinel Crystals and Their Formation 14:08 Historical Significance and Modern Sources 17:59 Inclusions and Unique Features of Spinel 18:58 Identifying Spinel vs. Other Stones 24:06 Synthetic Spinel: The Modern Challenge 30:11 Introduction to Spinels and Spectroscopy 34:03 Understanding Spinel Spectra 35:40 Famous Spinels: The Black Prince's Ruby 38:06 The Historical Significance of Spinels 41:29 The Sumerian Spinel: Myths and Legends 44:32 The Cote de Bretagne Spinel: A Unique Jewel 47:10 The Modern Recognition of Spinels Keywords Spinel, gemstones, gemology, inclusions, synthetic spinel, colour spectrum, historical significance, identification, properties, testing, gemmology

    43 min
  6. 12/22/2025

    17. Interview: Rosie Young. Lab Gemmology and all things Sunstone

    Send us a text In this episode of Facet Nation, hosts Simon and Lucinda chat with Rosie Young, a lab gemologist at GCS Lab. Rosie shares her journey from a tax advisor to a passionate gemmologist, discussing her education, experiences, and the day-to-day operations in a gem lab. The conversation delves into the fascinating world of sunstones, including their unique properties, treatments, and the science behind their colours. Rosie also highlights her research on sunstones and the importance of spreading awareness about this beautiful gemstone. The episode concludes with insights into the gem market and the joy of discovering new gemstones. Takeaways Rosie transitioned from tax advising to gemmology, pursuing her passion. She graduated with a BSc in Gemmology and started working at GCS Lab. Lab gemmology involves analysing gemstones using advanced equipment. Sunstones are a unique and under-appreciated gemstone. Copper-bearing sunstones come primarily from Oregon. Diffusion treatment can alter the appearance of gemstones. Color zoning in sunstones is a fascinating phenomenon. Rosie enjoys sharing her knowledge about gemstones with others. The gem market is constantly evolving with new trends. Sunstones have a variety of localities and unique characteristics. Titles Exploring the World of Gemmology with Rosie Young The Journey from Tax Advisor to Gemmologist Sound Bites "I always loved gems as a kid." "It's worked out really well for me." "I would just be happy for it." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Introduction 04:39 Rosie's Journey into Gemmology 07:06 Educational Experiences in Gemmology 09:43 Internship at GIA and Research Focus 12:19 Working at GCS Lab: Daily Operations 15:11 Lab Equipment and Techniques 17:33 Trends in Gemstone Submissions 20:18 Favourite Gemstones and Unique Finds 22:46 Research on Sunstones and Their Varieties 26:14 The Quest for Sunstone Knowledge 27:18 Origins of Sunstones 28:25 Locality Preferences and Unique Characteristics 28:59 Copper-Bearing Sunstones: A Comparative Analysis 30:48 Colour Zoning in Oregon Sunstone 33:29 Copper Diffusion Experiments 36:29 The Science Behind Diffusion Treatments 38:15 Identifying Diffusion-Treated Stones 42:23 Personal Connections to Sunstone 44:59 Exploring the World of Sunstones 47:34 Inspiration from Gemstones 48:25 Holiday Greetings and Future Plans Keywords gemmology, sunstone, lab gemmology, gemstone treatments, GCS Lab, Rosie Young, gem education, gemstone analysis, gem certification, gem market trends

    50 min
  7. 12/15/2025

    16. Light & Gem Testing Instruments: The Polariscope

    Send us a text In this episode of Facet Nation, Simon and Lucinda explore the intricacies of gemmology, focusing on the polariscope and its significance in testing gemstones. They discuss the behaviour of light in relation to isotropic and anisotropic materials, the importance of understanding internal stress in gems, and the use of the conoscope for identifying gemstones. The conversation emphasises community engagement and the joy of learning in the field of gemmology. Titles The Fascinating World of Gemmology Understanding Gem Testing Instruments Sound bites "We want to see more cats." "Light needs to be able to get through." "The bullseye is diagnostic of quartz." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Light Testing 02:55 Deep Dive into the Polariscope 05:26 Understanding Polarisation and Light Behaviour 08:01 Isotropic vs. Anisotropic Materials 10:41 Testing Gemstones with the Polariscope 13:05 Vibration Directions in Gemstones 15:49 Birefringence and Optical Axes 18:41 Conclusion and Key Takeaways 23:52 Understanding Polycrystalline Materials 27:19 Exploring Strain and Anomalous Double Refraction 30:39 Identifying Tabby Extinction and Writhing Snakes 34:11 The Role of the Conoscope in Gem Testing 37:26 Interference Figures: The Bullseye and Beyond 39:47 Biaxial Interference Figures and Their Significance Understanding the importance of the polariscope in gemmology. Light behaviour is crucial for interpreting gemstone properties. Isotropic materials remain dark under polarised light. Anisotropic materials show varying light responses. Polycrystalline materials allow light through in multiple directions. Anomalous double refraction indicates internal stress in gemstones. Conoscopes help identify gemstone types through interference figures. Interference figures provide diagnostic information about gemstones. Recognising tabby extinction and writhing snakes in gem testing. The podcast emphasises community engagement and learning. gemmology, polariscope, isotropic, anisotropic, gemstones, light behaviour, gem testing, interference figures, conoscope, anomalous double refraction, gemology

    46 min
  8. 12/08/2025

    15. Live Episode - Tanzanite - The Gem and Mineral Show London

    Send us a text In this live episode of Facet nation, hosts Simon and Lucinda share their experiences at the London Gem and Mineral Show, where they discuss the fascinating gemstone Tanzanite, its properties, discovery, and significance as a birthstone for December. They delve into the science behind Tanzanite's colour, its varieties, and its cultural importance, while also sharing personal anecdotes and insights from their gemmology journey. The London Gem and Mineral Show was a significant experience for the hosts. Tanzanite is the birthstone for December, making it a popular gift choice. Zoisite is the mineral family that Tanzanite belongs to. Tanzanite's colour is influenced by the presence of vanadium and iron. The discovery of Tanzanite is attributed to various individuals, leading to some controversy. Tanzanite requires heat treatment to achieve its vibrant blue colour. The gemstone is known for its vitreous lustre and unique trichroism. Tanzanite is relatively soft, making it less suitable for certain types of jewellery. The largest faceted Tanzanite weighs 703 carats, showcasing its potential size. Tanzanite is associated with transformation and spirituality in various cultures. Titles The Fascinating World of Tanzanite Tanzanite: A December Birthstone Exploration Sound bites "It's our first ever live show!" "Tanzanite has a vitreous luster." "Tanzanite is a very rare stone." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to the Live Show Experience 03:16 Exploring Tanzanite: The Birthstone of December 06:19 Understanding Zoisite and Its Varieties 09:08 The Science Behind Tanzanite's Colour and Properties 12:25 The Discovery and Commercialisation of Tanzanite 15:11 Tanzanite's Unique Characteristics and Uses 18:09 Metaphysical Properties and Cultural Significance of Tanzanite 21:12 Conclusion and Future of Facet nation Podcast Tanzanite, Gemmology, Birthstone, Zoisite, Live Podcast, Gemstones, Mineral Show, Colour Properties, Discovery, Metaphysical Properties, Gemology, Tiffany, Trichroism

    28 min

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About

Facet Nation is a new kind of gemmology podcast. Rigorous enough for serious students, but fascinating and funny enough for anyone craving an inside look at gemstones, jewellery and the shadowy world surrounding them. Part revision aide, part storytime, Lucinda and Simon are your qualified guides to the world’s most ancient treasures.

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