Facet Nation: A Gemmology Podcast

Facet Nation

Facet Nation is a new kind of gemmology podcast. Rigorous enough for serious students, but fascinating and funny enough for anyone craving an inside look at gemstones, jewellery and the shadowy world surrounding them. Part revision aide, part storytime, Lucinda and Simon are your qualified guides to the world’s most ancient treasures.

  1. 4D AGO

    25. Interview: Wim Vertriest - GIA Field Gemmology, Gem Identification and Mozambique Rubies

    Send a text  Join us as Wim Vertriest, head of field gemmology at GIA, shares his journey from geology to gemmology, insights into Mozambique rubies, and the fascinating science behind gemstone origin determination. Discover how field gemmology connects geology, anthropology, and the gemstone trade to deepen your understanding of these precious stones.  Key topics Wim Vertriest's journey from geology to gemmology Insights into Mozambique ruby deposits and mining practices The role of field gemmology in understanding gemstone origins Scientific techniques for gemstone identification and origin determination The impact of Mozambique rubies on the global gemstone market  Guest name Wim Vertriest Titles The Science and Secrets of Mozambique Rubies: An Interview with Wim Vertriest From Geology to Gemmology: Wim Vertriest's Journey at GIA  sound bites "Gemmology is about understanding the whole ecosystem." "Heat treatment leaves subtle but detectable clues." "My favourite gemstone is the Cat's Eye Chrysoberyl." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Background 02:57 Wim's Journey into Gemmology 05:19 The Role of Field Gemmology 07:55 Understanding Gemstone Origins 10:14 Geological Mysteries of Rubies 12:39 The Impact of Mining on Gemstones 15:12 The Evolution of Consumer Awareness 17:43 Building a Reliable Gemstone Collection 20:30 The Multidisciplinary Nature of Field Gemmology 23:04 Exploring the Origins of Sapphires 24:09 Field Gemmology: Balancing Lab Work and Expeditions 26:03 Research-Driven Gemmology: Filling Knowledge Gaps 27:39 Emerging Trends in Gemstone Popularity 29:24 The Challenges of Diamond Origin Determination 30:37 Identifying Gemstones: The Art of Exclusion 33:23 Declassifying Misidentified Stones 39:55 The Canary in the Coal Mine: Ruby Heating Experiments 44:18 The Chemistry of Gemstones 46:47 Advanced Techniques in Gemmology 48:08 The Rise of Mozambique Rubies 52:42 The Evolution of Ruby Mining 58:42 Changing Perceptions of Rubies 01:01:11 The Future of Gemmology  resources GIA Official Website - https://www.gia.edu Gems and Gemology Journal - https://www.gia.edu/gems-gemology Mozambique Ruby Mining Insights (Report) - https://www.gia.edu/mozambique-ruby-report Wim Vertriest's Profile on LinkedIn - https://www.linkedin.com/in/wimvertriest Guest links LinkedIn - https://www.linkedin.com/in/wimvertriest GIA Profile - https://www.gia.edu/wim-vertriest gemmology, gemstones, Mozambique rubies, gemstone origin, field gemmology, GIA, gem research, gemstone mining, gemstone identification, gem science Support the show

    1h 3m
  2. FEB 16

    24. Colour: The Spectroscope and Selective Absorption in Gems

    Send a text In this episode of Facet Nation, Simon and Lucinda delve into the fascinating world of gemmology, focusing on the spectroscope and its critical role in identifying gemstones. They discuss the different types of spectroscopes, techniques for using them, and the importance of diagnostic spectra in gem identification. The conversation is rich with insights into the nuances of color absorption and the practical applications of these tools in the field. The hosts also share personal anecdotes and tips for gem enthusiasts, making the episode both informative and engaging. Takeaways The spectroscope is essential for identifying gemstones. There are two main types of handheld spectroscopes: prism and diffraction grating. Using a spectroscope can help you understand how gemstones absorb light. Techniques for using a spectroscope include transmitted and reflected light methods. Diagnostic spectra are crucial for identifying specific gemstones. Understanding colour absorption helps in gem identification. The spectroscope can be used on both rough and polished stones. Learning the diagnostic spectra of gemstones is beneficial for gemmologists. The conversation emphasises the importance of practical experience in gemmology. Future episodes will cover more advanced topics in gemmology.  "We're going to talk about the spectroscope." "It's a really good one." "You can't see it, but it's there." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Recent Finds 02:06 Exploring the Spectroscope: A Gemmologist's Tool 11:16 Understanding Dispersion and Diffraction in Gemstones 18:39 Techniques for Using the Spectroscope 22:31 Diagnostic Spectra and Their Importance 26:53 The Art of Writing and Dashes 29:41 Understanding Spectrums: Zircon and Ruby 32:18 Emerald and Alexandrite Spectrums 35:03 Synthetic and Natural Sapphires 37:28 Exploring Iron Spectrums in Gemstones 40:03 The Spectrum of Garnets and Jadeite 42:42 Cobalt Spectrums: Spinel and Glass 45:31 Rare Earth Elements and Red Glass 47:59 Diamonds and Their Unique Spectra gemmology, spectroscope, gemstones, diagnostic spectra, colour absorption, gem identification, gemmology techniques, gem enthusiasts, gem collectors, gemstone analysis, gemology Support the show

    53 min
  3. FEB 9

    23. Colour: An introduction

    Send a text In this episode of the Facet nation gemmology podcast, Lucinda and Simon explore the intricate world of colour in gemstones. They discuss the significance of colour in determining the value of gemstones, the science of light and how it interacts with materials to create colour, and the chemical elements responsible for these hues. The conversation also covers the colour wheel and its relevance to gemstones, the methods of analysing gemstones through spectroscopy, and the perception of colour. The episode concludes with a teaser for future discussions on more complex topics related to colour in gemmology. Takeaways Colour is the most important aspect of coloured gemstones. The value of gemstones is influenced by colour, history, and trends. Light is essential for colour perception in gemstones. Selective absorption determines the colour we see in gemstones. Eight chemical elements are responsible for colour in gemstones. The colour wheel helps understand colour relationships in gemstones. Not all light sources are suitable for gemstone analysis. Spectroscopy is a key tool in analysing gemstone colours. Understanding the science of colour enhances appreciation for gemstones. Future episodes will explore more complex topics in gemmology. Titles Exploring the Colour Spectrum of Gemstones The Science Behind Gemstone Colours Sound bites "Everything comes back to light." "Not all white light is created equal." "If there is no light, does colour exist?" Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Colour in Gemmology 01:50 The Importance of Colour in Gemstones 04:34 Understanding Light and Colour 09:11 Chemical Elements and Colour 12:29 The Colour Wheel and Its Application 16:15 Spectroscopy and Light Sources 21:16 Conclusion and Future Topics gemstones, colour, light, spectroscopy, chemical elements, colour wheel, gemmology, ruby, sapphire, emerald Support the show

    25 min
  4. FEB 2

    22. Interview: Justin Prim - gemcutter, author, teacher and historian

    Send a text In this episode of Facet Nation, hosts Lucinda and Simon welcome gem cutter Justin K Prim, who shares his fascinating journey from music to gemmology. Justin discusses his experiences in the gem trade, the art and science of gem cutting, and the importance of community in the field. He also delves into his favorite gemstones, the challenges of the trade, and his exciting new projects, including a gem cutting school and a museum showcasing his extensive collection of machines and books. Find out more: https://www.magusgems.com https://www.facetingapprentice.com Takeaways Justin transitioned from a career in music to gem cutting. He discovered the gem trade through a local gem show. Lapidary clubs play a crucial role in learning gem cutting. Emeralds are Justin's favourite gemstones to cut. The gem cutting process requires patience and attention to detail. Community support is vital for aspiring gem cutters. Justin emphasises the importance of creativity in gem cutting. He is excited about his new gem cutting school and museum. The gem trade is evolving, with a growing appreciation for well-cut stones. Justin's books aim to educate and inspire future gem cutters. Titles From Music to Gemmology: Justin K Prim's Journey The Art of Gem Cutting with Justin K Prim Sound bites "I want to keep cutting." "I love cutting emeralds." "It's a mystery." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Introduction 01:13 Justin's Journey into Gem Cutting 05:19 Discovering the Gem Trade 09:06 The Evolution of Gem Cutting Community 11:45 Getting Started in Lapidary 14:47 The Art of Gem Cutting 16:18 Moving to Bangkok for Gemmology School 20:20 Building a Career in Gem Cutting 23:07 Life in France and the Gem Business 25:47 The Process of Cutting a Gemstone 27:01 The Art of Preforming and Cutting Gems 29:54 Polishing and Final Touches in Gem Cutting 31:54 Exploring Different Faceting Techniques 33:43 The Journey of Learning and Experimentation 36:30 Building a Gem Cutting School and Museum 38:15 The Passion Behind Gem Cutting and Teaching 42:29 The Evolution of Gem Cutting Techniques 47:32 Historical Insights into Gem Cutting 52:36 The Importance of Quality in Gemstones 54:57 Understanding Coloured Stones vs. Diamonds 56:28 The Journey of a Gemstone Buyer 58:53 Emotional Connections in Jewellery Making 01:04:48 The Art of Cutting Gemstones 01:06:23 Future Plans and Collaborations gemmology, gem cutting, gemstones, lapidary, gem trade, gem cutter, gem education, gem collection, gem stories, gem enthusiasts, books, gem history, museum Support the show

    1h 7m
  5. JAN 26

    21. Interview: Jeff Hapeman, Earth's Treasury. Montana Sapphires and more

    Send a text In this episode of Facet Nation, hosts Lucinda and Simon interview Jeff Hapeman, owner of Earth's Treasury, who shares his unique journey from academia to the gem industry. Jeff discusses the fascinating world of Montana sapphires, the challenges and opportunities within the gem market, and the importance of ethical sourcing and cutting techniques. The conversation highlights the growing popularity of coloured stones and the evolving consumer preferences in jewellery design. In this engaging conversation, Jeff Hapeman discusses the intricacies of gem cutting, the inspirations behind his jewellery designs, and the fascinating world of photomicrography. He shares insights into the judging process for the Gem-A Photographer of the Year and reflects on his experiences with Montana sapphires, emphasising the beauty and uniqueness of gemstones. Takeaways Jeff transitioned from academia to gemmology after realising academia wasn't for him. Earth's Treasury focuses on American gemstones, particularly Montana sapphires. Montana sapphires offer a unique variety of colours and qualities. The gem industry faces challenges with sourcing and environmental regulations. Jeff emphasises the importance of ethical sourcing in the gem market. The rise of coloured stones reflects changing consumer preferences. Gem cutting techniques can significantly affect the appearance of stones. There is a growing awareness of the importance of quality cutting in coloured stones. Jeff believes that coloured stones are becoming more popular among younger generations. The future of gemmuology will likely see continued growth in the colored stone market. The pavilion angle needs to be steeper for optimal performance. Jewellery is bespoke and designed specifically for each stone. Sphene is a captivating gem with unique dispersion. The Garnet Supernova necklace was inspired by a collector's love for Art Deco. Colour is a key element in trendy jewellery designs. Photomicrography reveals the intricate beauty of gemstones. Judging photography involves assessing technical skill and aesthetic appeal. Montana sapphires are mined in limited quantities, often yielding smaller stones. Patience and persistence are essential in gemstone photography. The journey of a gemstone from rough to finished piece is a labor of love. Titles The Art of Gem Cutting: Insights from Jeff Hapeman Design Inspirations: Crafting Unique Jewellery Sound bites "I try to minimise the waste." "They look awesome." "I love all gems equally." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Introduction 03:24 Jeff Hapeman's Unique Journey into Gemmology 08:41 The Birth of Earth's Treasury and Business Evolution 12:14 Montana Sapphires: A Gemstone Revolution 19:55 The Appeal of Coloured Stones in Modern Jewellery 23:29 The Future of Diamonds and Coloured Gemstones 27:41 Exploring Unique Garnets and Tourmalines 29:02 Innovative Cuts for Montana Sapphires 31:35 The Art of Precision Cutting 33:30 Designing Jewellery with Timeless Inspiration 37:50 Creating Signature Jewellery Designs 42:38 The World of Photomicrography 47:41 Judging the GemA Photographer of the Year 49:26 The Art of Inclusion Photography 52:06 Patience in Photography and Nature 53:24 Experiences in the UK and Gemmology 56:14 Self-Publishing and the Journey of a Book 58:11 The Reality of Sapphire Mining gemmology, Montana sapphires, Jeff Hapeman, Earth's Treasury, gem cutting, coloured stones, jewellery design, gem indust Support the show

    1h 2m
  6. JAN 19

    20. The Refractometer: Gem testing and how it works

    Send a text In this episode of Facet Nation, Simon and Lucinda delve into the intricacies of the refractometer, a crucial tool for gemmologists. They discuss its importance in identifying gemstones by measuring the refractive index, emphasising how light behaves when it enters different materials. The hosts share personal anecdotes and practical tips for using the refractometer effectively, including the significance of using the right light source and the challenges posed by contact fluid. They also highlight common pitfalls and best practices to ensure accurate readings, making the episode both informative and engaging for listeners interested in gemmology. Throughout the conversation, Simon and Lucinda provide insights into the technical aspects of the refractometer, such as total internal reflection and the importance of clean surfaces. They also touch on the emotional aspects of studying gemmology, sharing their experiences with exam preparation and the sense of community among gemmology students. The episode concludes with a light-hearted discussion about the challenges of using the refractometer and the importance of practice in mastering this essential tool. Keywords gemmology, refractometer, gemstone identification, light refraction, gemmology tools, refractive index, gemmologist tips, gemmology podcast, optical properties, gemstones, gem testing, light and optics, education, science Takeaways The refractometer is essential for identifying gemstones. Using the correct light source is crucial for accurate readings. Practice makes perfect when using the refractometer. Keep the glass table of the refractometer clean to avoid inaccurate results. Understanding total internal reflection is key to using the refractometer. Titles Mastering the Refractometer: Essential Tips for Gemmologists Unlocking the Secrets of Gemstone Identification with the Refractometer Sound bites "Not having a refractometer is like going into battle with a spoon." "Sodium yellow light is the agreed upon standard." "When in doubt, get your refractometer out." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to the Refractometer 01:52 Understanding Refraction and Its Importance 04:53 How the Refractometer Works 10:22 The Role of RI Fluid in Testing 14:10 Interpreting Shadow Edges and RI Readings 19:08 Birefringence and Its Significance 22:56 Identifying Uniaxial vs. Biaxial Stones 25:24 Understanding Biaxial Materials 28:13 Distant Vision Reading Techniques 32:52 Practical Tips for Using a Refractometer 36:29 House Rules for Refractometry 41:30 Final Thoughts on Refractometer Use Support the show

    45 min
  7. JAN 12

    19. Gemmology Exam Preparation: What to expect

    Send a text In this episode of Facet Nation, Lucinda and Simon discuss their experiences preparing for and taking the Gem-A exams, particularly focusing on the diploma exam. They share personal anecdotes about their study strategies, the unique challenges of the Gem-A exams, and tips for managing exam anxiety. The conversation covers various aspects of preparation, including the importance of understanding the material deeply, utilizing practice papers, and the significance of real-world application in gemmology. They also reflect on their experiences during the exam days, offering insights into the practical and theory components of the exams, and conclude with advice for future candidates. Exams can be stressful, but preparation helps alleviate anxiety. Gem-A exams are known for their difficulty and require deep understanding. Different study methods work for different people; find what suits you best. Real-world application of gemmology knowledge enhances understanding. Start preparing early to build a solid foundation of knowledge. Utilise flashcards and practice papers for effective revision. Stay calm and organised during the exam to maximise performance. The invigilators are supportive and there to help you succeed. It's normal not to doubt yourself during the exam; trust your knowledge. Post-exam discussions can help clarify doubts and reduce anxiety. Navigating the Gem-A Exam Experience Mastering Gemmology: Exam Strategies and Insights Sound bites "I was really worried about the practical." "You can get two wrong and still pass." "I still have dreams about it." Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Exam Season Anxiety 02:38 Understanding GEM-A Exams 05:31 Preparing for the Diploma Exam 07:53 Study Strategies and Techniques 10:47 Real-World Application of Gemmology 13:27 Tips for Early Preparation 15:51 One Month Out: Focused Revision 18:48 The Importance of Practice Papers 21:29 Final Week Preparations 24:16 Day of the Exam: Priorities and Mindset 32:07 Navigating Exam Day Challenges 37:19 Exam Preparation Strategies 41:31 Experiencing the Exam: Insights and Reflections 51:56 Coping with Post-Exam Anxiety 55:39 Final Thoughts and Advice for Future Candidates Support the show

    57 min
  8. JAN 5

    18. The Best Kept Secrets of Spinel

    Send a text Summary In this episode, Lucinda and Simon explore the fascinating world of spinel, a gemstone often overshadowed by rubies and sapphires. They discuss its chemical composition, colour variations, and historical significance, as well as the modern rise of synthetic spinel. The conversation delves into the properties that make spinel a desirable choice for jewellery, its unique inclusions, and the testing methods used to identify it. The hosts also highlight famous spinels throughout history, emphasising the gemstone's newfound recognition and value in the gemological community. Takeaways Spinel is often confused with rubies and sapphires due to its similar appearance. The chemical composition of spinel is magnesium aluminum oxide. Spinel comes in a variety of colors, including red, blue, and black. Spinel is a durable gemstone, making it suitable for everyday wear. Historically, spinel was often misidentified as ruby, leading to its nickname 'balast ruby.' The Mahenge region of Tanzania produces some of the most valuable spinels. Spinel crystals can form in octahedral shapes, similar to diamonds. Synthetic spinel is produced using the Verneuil flame fusion method. Testing spinel involves using a refractometer to determine its refractive index. Famous spinels include the Black Prince's Ruby and the Timur Ruby. Chapters 00:00 New Year, New Beginnings 02:07 The Allure of Spinel 03:47 Understanding Spinel's Composition 07:59 The Color Spectrum of Spinel 10:55 Spinel Crystals and Their Formation 14:08 Historical Significance and Modern Sources 17:59 Inclusions and Unique Features of Spinel 18:58 Identifying Spinel vs. Other Stones 24:06 Synthetic Spinel: The Modern Challenge 30:11 Introduction to Spinels and Spectroscopy 34:03 Understanding Spinel Spectra 35:40 Famous Spinels: The Black Prince's Ruby 38:06 The Historical Significance of Spinels 41:29 The Sumerian Spinel: Myths and Legends 44:32 The Cote de Bretagne Spinel: A Unique Jewel 47:10 The Modern Recognition of Spinels Keywords Spinel, gemstones, gemology, inclusions, synthetic spinel, colour spectrum, historical significance, identification, properties, testing, gemmology Support the show

    43 min

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About

Facet Nation is a new kind of gemmology podcast. Rigorous enough for serious students, but fascinating and funny enough for anyone craving an inside look at gemstones, jewellery and the shadowy world surrounding them. Part revision aide, part storytime, Lucinda and Simon are your qualified guides to the world’s most ancient treasures.

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