Hairspring Hairspring

Erik & Max go from the absurd to the practical with two major topics this week. The first headline is a rewrite of athlete’s watches, we make choices for what we’d like to see Michael Jordan, Ayrton Senna, Bubba Watson, and even Conor McGregor wear. Second, we get serious with a primer on vintage engraved enamel Patek Philippe dial construction and the very basics of assessing condition (including a practice session with some upcoming lots at NYC auctions). Finally, an Only Wrist which asks, ‘What is the ultimate dad watch?’



Links Mentioned:



Conor McGregor:



https://www.richardmille.com/historical-models/rm-38-01-tourbillon-bubba-watson



https://www.acollectedman.com/products/oilean-hb-1-titanium



https://hairspring.com/finds/mbf-lm-perpetual-calendar/



Michael Jordan:



https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/fashion/article/michael-jordan-a-lange-sohne-datograph



https://www.gq.com/story/watches-of-the-week-7-2-22



https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/HK080423/858



https://hairspring.com/finds/fap-6263-rolex-daytona/



https://hairspring.com/finds/coral-red-stella-dial-1803-rolex-day-date/



Ayrton Senna:



https://www.ayrton-senna.net/watch-collection-of-ayrton-senna/



https://www.fratellowatches.com/universal-geneve-senna-41-52mondayz-week-41/



https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-213-350



https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-part-i/daytona-john-player-special-reference-6241-a



https://hairspring.com/finds/1163-viceroy-mh-bezel-heuer-autavia/



Bubba Watson:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9sWVRLUPxHQ (Hovercraft)



https://www.phillips.com/detail/heuer/NY080222/26



https://hairspring.com/finds/1830-iwc-golf-club-sl/



https://watchesbysjx.com/2021/04/iwc-big-pilot-shock-absorber-xpl.html

(Misspoke, 30K G, not 300K G)



Lebron:



https://www.gq.com/story/watches-of-the-week-4-17-21



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-nautilus-5711-tiffany-blue-phillips-new-york-2021



https://loupethis.com/auctions/patek-philippe-jumbo-nautilus-3700-retailed-by-tiffany-co



https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080222/24



https://www.phillips.com/detail/bulgari/HK080323/8043



https://www.acollectedman.com/products/gerald-genta-skeletonised-perpetual-calendar-white-gold



Joel Embiid:



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/is-the-tudor-pelagos-fxd-the-best-watch-of-2021



https://hairspring.com/finds/fp-journe-chronometre-bleu/



https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/NY080118/72



Patek Philippe:



True Enamel Examples:



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-2526-and-why-its-a-watch-to-pay-attention-to



https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-3428-platinum-enamel-dial/



https://le-monde-edmond.com/patek-2577-the-elusive-enamel-time-only-watch/



https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080118/268



Engraved Enamel Examples:



https://collectability.com/product/patek-philippe-steel-sector-dial-ref-130a/



https://italianwatchspotter.com/patek-philippe-ref-2499-guide/?lang=en



https://revolutionwatch.com/padellone-patek-philippes-most-elegant-perpetual-calendar-the-3448/



Auction Examples:



https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/NY080124/30



https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/NY080124/39



https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches/reference-1436-a-rare-pink-gold-split-seconds



Only Wrist:



https://hairspring.com/finds/fuerza-aerea-del-peru-fap-2913-8-omega-seamaster-300/



https://www.windvintage.com/ikepod-red-manatee-new-old-stock-full-set

Erik & Max engage in a battle of hot (and lukewarm) contrarian takes for our first audience-sourced Hot Takes episode. Buckle up. Plus, what is the most interesting watch in the world?



Links Mentioned:



https://www.nytimes.com/2024/05/10/arts/design/christies-cyberattack-website.html



https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/vintage-cartier-watches-rise-explained-1234871141/



https://www.acollectedman.com/products/octa-sport-titanium-ars2-yellow-dial



https://www.fratellowatches.com/can-microbrands-pull-off-high-end-watchmaking/



https://www.adweek.com/media/hodinkee-crown-caliber/



https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=874313



The Most Interesting Man in the World:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYdwe3ArFWA



Only Wrist:



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-vantablack-case-2022



https://hairspring.com/finds/onyx-dial-18206-rolex-day-date/



https://hairspring.com/finds/cartier-tank-a-guichet/



https://hairspring.com/finds/5513-7-double-reference-rolex-royal-navy-milsub/

Erik & Max embark on their first collection building exercise: 3 watches from either Rolex or Tudor for 75K US. The catch is we’re requiring one 6-digit, one 5-digit, and one 4-digit watch each. Plus, some deeper thoughts on the way Tudor and Rolex are positioning themselves these days, breaking news, and an Only Wrist for a designer at Ferrari. 



Links Mentioned:



https://www.richardmille.com/collections/rm-s14



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-watches-and-fashion-of-met-gala-2024



Six Digit Discussion:



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-datejust-36-palm-and-fluted-dials-introducing



https://www.phillips.com/article/113102860/rolex-day-date-eisenkiesel



https://timeandtidewatches.com/rolex-explorer-ii-review-reference-216570-42mm/



https://hairspring.com/finds/sas-216570-rolex-explorer-ii/



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-white-gold-rolex-le-mans-daytona-is-discontinued



https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=942842



https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/watches-online-7/reference-116520-daytona-a-stainless-steel-2



Five Digit:



https://www.fratellowatches.com/matte-dial-rolex-gmt-master-16750/



https://hairspring.com/finds/spider-dial-16750-rolex-gmt-master/



https://hairspring.com/finds/16520-patrizzi-rolex-daytona/



Four Digit:



https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-2/reference-6105-datejust-ovettone-a-pink-gold



https://tudorcollector.com/collection/example-watch-5/



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-thirteen-milsubs-of-grahame-fowler



Only Wrist:



https://hairspring.com/finds/monoblocco-3525-rolex-chronograph/



https://k2luxury.ch/watches/brand/vacheron-constantin/historiques-american-1921-8203-5000r-b277/

Erik & Max answer one of the great watchmaking debates that’s been raging since chronographs immemorial: 2915 Speedmaster vs 6239 Daytona. It’s a fierce topic which is addressed fairly with total bias. Discussions range from stepped subdials, radium, base 1000 bezels, solo dials, and even the relative merits of V72 and 321. Then, a tour of some fascinating Japanese watchmaking that isn’t Grand Seiko, all independent, from Hajime Asaoka to Norifumi Seki’s independent display pocket watch. Finally, an Only Wrist for an architect with some rather specific demands.



Links Mentioned:



Japanese Watchmaking Tour:



https://www.fratellowatches.com/hajime-asaokas-new-tourbillon-noir-reasserts-the-independent-watchmakers-art-deco-style/



https://deployant.com/review-hajime-asaoka-chronograph/



https://robbreport.com/motors/cars/talbot-lago-most-expensive-french-car-1234668474/



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/one-to-watch-yosuke-sekiguchi



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/norifumi-seki-one-to-watch-hodinkee-japan



https://hairspring.com/exclusives/naoya-hida/type-1d-steel/



https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-kikuchi-nakagawa-ichimonji-murakumo-japan-independent-watchmaker/



2915 vs 6239 ‘Face’-Off:



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/understanding-the-omega-speedmaster-professional



https://speedmaster101.com/2915-2/



https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/reference-guide-rolex-daytona



https://hairspring.com/finds/paul-newman-6239-rolex-daytona/



https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/important-watches/reference-6239-daytona-solo-a-stainless-steel



https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-3/rolex-reference-6239-double-swiss-underline



https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/NY080117/8



Only Wrist:



https://langepedia.com/encyclopedia/cabaret/



https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/cabaret/cabaret-tourbillon-handwerkskunst/cabaret-tourbillon-handwerkskunst-in-950-platinum-703-048



(Correction, the tourbillon dial Erik was thinking of is dark grey and not black)

Erik & Max are back to the serious debates this week, this time the most beautiful lugs of all time. We ask how Instagram has influenced the watches being produced today. And, finally, we couldn’t stay away from discussing the various controversies surrounding a few lots at this year’s Monaco Legend auctions. This ep touches on the RRCC2, Ed White, 3800, and everything in between. Finally, an only wrist for a self-described budget Bill Gates. 



Links Mentioned:



Best Lugs of All Time:



https://hairspring.com/finds/tropical-dial-us-6th-fleet-105-003-65-omega-speedmaster/



https://hairspring.com/exclusives/omega/105-012-65-tropical-dial-speedmaster-steel/



https://hairspring.com/finds/2447nst-heuer-carrera-second-execution-3/



https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/NY080120/10



https://www.acollectedman.com/pages/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-two



https://italianwatchspotter.com/patek-philippe-ref-2499-guide/?lang=en



https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/CH080515/131



https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/vacheron-constantin-historiques-cornes-de-vache-1955-limited-edition-for-hodinkee?variant=35842814415



https://hairspring.com/finds/oman-khanjar-dial-3700-patek-philippe-nautilus/



https://hairspring.com/exclusives/vacheron-constantin/46003-222-steel-gold/



https://www.obwcollection.com/product/patek-philippe-ref-2431-yellow-gold-2nd-series



https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/christies-watches-online-watch-out-summer/rolex-oyster-perpetual-bombay-lugs-ref-6090-120/42187



Monaco Legend Group:



https://perezcope.com/2024/04/19/when-monaco-gives-you-lemons-make-lemonade-frankenstein-rolex-daytona-6241-paul-newman-lemon-and-other-beauties/



https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-101



https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-163



Only Wrist:



https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080121/43



https://hairspring.com/finds/tropical-3800-patek-philippe-nautilus/



https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-ultimate-collection-ii/patek-philippe-aquanaut-ref-5066j-35/191983

This week is all about specifics of rare vintage watches; Erik & Max cover off some lots from the upcoming spring auctions and use them as muse to talk about some things we don’t see often. Stops at Watches & Wonders, Desert Eagle and Alpine Research Daytonas, special order Cartier bracelets, and 2438 Perpetual Calendars. Plus, what watch should you wear while hunting war criminals in Eastern Europe?



Links Mentioned:



W&W:



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-golden-ellipse-is-back-on-bracelet



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-brings-back-the-tortue-monopusher-chronograph-and-all



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-brings-a-touch-of-heritage-to-the-luc-xps-with-a-new-forest-green-sector-dial



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-patek-philippe-5330g-world-time-thats-a-low-key-world-first-too



Sothebys:



https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-part-i/n001-reference-25657pt-a-platinum-perpetual?locale=en



https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-part-i/daytona-alpine-research-reference-6265-a-stainless?locale=en



https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-part-i/lange-1-reference-101-001-a-yellow-gold-bracelet?locale=en



Christies:



https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/cartier-paris-tank-reverso-fine-manual-winding-gold-wristwatch-77/221076?ldp_breadcrumb=back



https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/cartier-tank-louis-gold-diamond-sapphire-set-manual-winding-wristwatch-98/221098?ldp_breadcrumb=back



Bracelet Background



https://hairspring.com/finds/pre-cpcp-extra-flat-cartier-tank-louis-with-teardrop-bracelet/



https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-ref-25730or-attractive-dual-time-pink-gold-12/221009?ldp_breadcrumb=back



https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/rolex-daytona-ref-6265-rare-important-stainless-steel-chronograph-made-13/221012?ldp_breadcrumb=back



https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/rolex-day-date-ref-18038-crown-khanjar-gold-automatic-wristwatch-48/221049?ldp_breadcrumb=back



Phillips:



https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080224/48



https://www.phillips.com/detail/audemars-piguet/CH080224/49



https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080224/117



https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080224/133



https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080224/142



Watches That Saved Their Makers:



https://www.watchbrotherslondon.com/articles/reference-talk-audemars-piguet-quantieme-perpetual-automatique



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/early-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-in-depth



https://monochrome-watches.com/history-of-the-patek-philippe-calatrava-part-1-reference-96/



https://bulangandsons.com/blogs/watch-talks/rolex-zenith-daytona



Only Wrist:



https://www.phillips.com/detail/heuer/HK080218/998?fromSearch=2446&searchPage=1



https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/parmigianis-tonda-pf-rattrapante-gmt-2022-review