Welcome back to Travel to Listen, the Unpacked series hosted by veteran music journalist Tim Chester, where music is the shortcut to a place’s soul. Season two opens in Iceland, where Icelandic music and landscape are so intertwined that Sigur Rós can sound like the soundtrack to the land of ice, waterfalls, and black volcanic rock. But Sigur Rós, Björk, and Of Monsters and Men are only half the story. This week on the show, Tim talks with Ísleifur “Ísi” Þórhallsson, director of Iceland Airwaves, the festival that takes over downtown Reykjavík every November. Ísi explains how an airline’s tourism idea grew into what Tim calls the best annual showcase of Icelandic music, why there is no single Icelandic sound, and how to get immersed in the Reykjavík music scene. It’s music travel built on discovery, not a checklist, and the kind of travel experiences people tell Ísi changed their lives. In this episode How Iceland Airwaves grew from a 1999 airplane hangar and six Icelandic bands, including GusGus and Quarashi, into a week of events that treats downtown Reykjavík as one of its venues Why most Airwaves guests don’t know most of the bands, and why 25 years of trust means that’s exactly how they like it Why Ísi doesn’t think there is one Icelandic sound, and how a small, tight-knit community where musicians move freely between genres, plus long, dark winters, helps explain the country’s creativity Where Icelandic artists record, from Sigur Rós’s studio in Mosfellsbær to a remote lodge in northern Iceland where Justin Bieber worked, plus a rebate that returns about 25 percent of recording costs How to experience Icelandic music like a fan: go downtown, don’t over-plan, and look for tiny daytime shows in hotel lobbies, record stores, and libraries The one song Ísi says sums up Reykjavík, and the Icelandic-language rapper behind it Meet this week’s guests Ísleifur “Ísi” Þórhallsson is the festival director of Iceland Airwaves, the annual Reykjavík music festival first held in 1999. He works with Sena Live, the concert company that took over the festival in 2018, and has spent more than 25 years in Iceland’s live music scene. Guest host Tim Chester is a freelance travel and culture writer who has spent the past 20 years exploring the world through the lens of music. His reporting has appeared in NME, Spin, and Afar, and his travels have taken him from Manhattan to Malawi and Beijing to Berlin in search of the festivals, scenes, and stories that reveal a city’s soul. Chapters 00:00:00 Music Meets Place 00:02:00 A Festival Born in a Hangar 00:04:00 Booking the Unknown 00:07:30 Is There an Icelandic Sound? 00:11:30 How to Do Airwaves A Music Fan’s Travel Guide to Reykjavík Reykjavík is small enough to cross on foot. Here’s where to go (start with the Afar guide, of course). Start here: the essential stops Downtown Reykjavík—the whole festival footprint: seven or eight venues, from a dive bar to a church to an art museum, within about a 10-minute walk of one another. Airwaves off-venue shows—tiny daytime sets in hotel lobbies, record stores, and libraries, before and after the official program. Harpa—Reykjavík’s harborfront concert hall and the home of this year’s Airwaves special events in its Eldborg hall. Record stores and coffee shops—where, Ísi says, Reykjavík’s musicians hang out and trade ideas. Go beyond the city Mosfellsbær—about 30 minutes from Reykjavík, and the home of Sigur Rós’s studio. Flóki Studios at Eleven Deplar Farm—a remote lodge and recording studio on North Iceland’s Troll Peninsula, where Justin Bieber worked on his 2025 album Swag. Artists to watch Amor Vincit Omnia Úlfur Úlfur Emmsjé Gauti Mammút Júníus Meyvant RAKEL Hjaltalín múm Up next on Travel to Listen Tim heads to Liverpool, a UNESCO City of Music, to trace the history of The Beatles and the famous Cavern Club. New episode next week. Links & resources Iceland Airwaves—festival history and program Iceland Airwaves 2026 tickets and dates Iceland Airwaves 2026 lineup announcement (DORK) The Streets at Eldborg, Harpa (Iceland Airwaves) Listen to Unpacked: Iceland, Off the Tourist Trail Stay connected Be sure to subscribe to the show and sign up for our podcast newsletter, Behind the Mic, where we share upcoming news and behind-the-scenes details of each episode. And explore our second podcast, Travel Tales, which celebrates first-person narratives about the way travel changes us, and View From Afar, where we spotlight the people and ideas shaping the future of travel. Unpacked by Afar is part of Airwave Media’s podcast network. Please contact advertising@airwavemedia.com if you would like to advertise on our podcast. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices