The Migration Menu

Luke Heslop and James Staples

Journey from South Asia to West London through food as we explore migration, globalisation, entrepreneurship, and cultural heritage.   In the series, Prof James Staples and Dr Luke Heslop, anthropologists from Brunel University London, talk to restaurateurs and others about what food from their homeland means to them and why. They explore the rich array of culinary traditions that have made their way from South Asia and been made anew in West London, using food as an entry point to wider discussions. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

  1. 5d ago

    Classics Fest: Live in Newcastle

    Travel with us on the second leg of The Migration Menu’s road trip, to Newcastle in the north-east of England, where we joined a panel conversation about hospitality at ClassicsFest – three days of theatre, talks, tastings, performance and conversation inspired by the ancient world around this year’s theme of food. We also ate at a communal meal with refugees who share knowledge about food of their homelands, and learn to cook that of others, at the Seven Bridges Café. Plus, for those missing the South Asian connection in this episode, a couple of recommendations of where you might find a curry in the city… ** 01:00-01:22: A reminder to sign-up to our newsletter Listen To The Migration Menu Podcast – The Migration Menu, and get some great discount offers from eateries featured on the show! **Starters** (01:22 – 06:50) James and Luke sketch out the context of their trips to Newcastle, to meet Cinzia Hardy [Home | Cinzia Hardy], founder and producer of the annual ClassicsFest festival [ClassicsFest 2026 | Food & Feasting in Antiquity], chef Archie Smith of The Lubber Kitchen [THE LUBBER FIEND] and Seven Bridges Café [The Seven Bridges Cafe | Join Us For Community — West End Refugee Services (WERS)], a joint partnership between Dance City and the West End Refugee Service (WERS). In addition to attending a communal meal with volunteers from The Seven Bridges Café, all of them refugees, they also attend a festival panel on hospitality, along with Professor Athanassios Vergados [Staff Profiles | School of History, Classics and Archaeology | Newcastle University], poet Mymona Bibi, and Laura Coffey, author of the Homer inspired memoir, Enchanted Islands. **06.51-07.09: A shout-out from Mike Crawley, co-host of The Anthropology Podcast, to have a listen to one of our sibling shows! **Mains** (07:09-20:14) We go over first to James and Luke at the sell-out panel at Newcastle’s Lit & Phil, where they offer a nuanced definition of hospitality – and why it might not always be as positive as it first appears. The relationship between guest and host is not an equal one. Luke offers a potted history of British hospitality – which became institutionalized in Britain with the opening of inns and taverns – before the pair head off (10:31) to a communal dinner at the Lubber Kitchen, with volunteers from The Seven Bridges Café who have also partaken in a series of poetry and writing workshops put on for the festival. Table chat at the meal is topped and tailed with readings from Nigerian poet Lanre Sonde. **Dessert** (20:22-27:03) James and Luke reflect on the meal and their time in Newcastle, and the work that food does in bringing people together. As they also discovered, however, for those fleeing persecution, food memories can evoke sadness as well as joy. Empowerment often gets bandied around by activists as a buzzword, but the Seven Bridges Café – in offering refugees opportunities to learn new cooking skills as well as to share their own recipes – really does seem to make a difference to the lives of those who volunteer there. In addition to discussing the food they shared, James and Luke also add some South Asian restaurant recommendations of their own, including Dabbawal (Indian Restaurant Newcastle | Dabbawal) and Khai Khai (Khai Khai - An Indian Restaurant in Newcastle). **On the Menu** Gözleme (Turkish flatbread, stuffed with butternut squash, ricotta, and charred cabbage Beef tibs (Ethiopian dish, with beef, onions, tomatoes, and berbere – an Ethiopian spice mix) Injera (fermented Ethiopian flatbread) Mirza Ghasemi (Kurdish-Iranian dish of smoked aubergines, tomatoes, and spices) Bread, hummus, and dressed green salad References: Coffey, Laura (2024). Enchanted Islands: A Mediterranean Odyssey – A Memoir of Travels through Love, Grief and Mythology. Summersdale. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    Classics Fest: Live in Newcastle
  2. Oct 29

    Asma Khan: Darjeeling Express

    Join us as we board the Darjeeling Express with Asma Khan to chart her journey from maligned second daughter of a Rajput royal family who couldn’t cook, to celebrated feeder of Hollywood A-listers in London’s Soho. Along the way – in addition to sampling some of the restaurant’s signature dishes – we contemplate the importance of storytelling to good food; why cooks from South Asia are more attuned to the spiritual aspects of feeding; and the significance of running an all women kitchen. ** 00:50-01:10: A reminder to sign-up to our newsletter Listen To The Migration Menu Podcast – The Migration Menu, and get some great discount offers from eateries featured on the show! **Starters** (01:10 – 04:55) James and Luke discuss why the Darjeeling Express is a restaurant with a difference: not only does it run a women-only, all South Asian diaspora kitchen, but none of the women who work there with Asma are formally trained chefs. Asma herself is also a different kind of restaurant patron: unlike the men who dominate the industry, most of whom are trained in what she describes as “stainless steel empires”, she has a PhD in constitutional law, and learned to cook from Bengali aunts who were afraid that if they didn’t share their secret recipes, she’d leave her husband. Since then, she’s been listed in Time magazine as one of the world’s 100 most influential people, and has been a cheerleader for food justice. **04.55-05.14: A shout-out from Mike Crawley, co-host of The Anthropology Podcast, to have a listen to one of our sibling shows! **Mains** (08:24-20:23) James and Luke join Asma for masala chai between services at her Soho-based restaurant, where she recounts her story from a childhood spent in Chennai, Hyderabad and Kolkata – the second daughter of a Rajput royal family – to Cambridge and then London in the UK. Food was always an important part of the tale: her mother set up her own catering business, and her father regaled them with stories he made-up about the origins of different dishes. It was, however, her struggles for recognition in the wider extended family – where girls always ate last and ate least – that really informed her approach to business. Starting off with a supper club, run from her own home, the restaurant, she explains, is not just a business – even though it’s Michelin guide listed – but “a battle cry for justice.” **Dessert** (27:49-37:09) James and Luke draw out the key takeaways from their interview. Gender politics, of course, was a major theme, leading them to reflect on why women in catering seem so much more likely to take less conventional approaches – from running supper clubs and tiffin services to restaurants with a political message – than their male counterparts. But so, too, was the importance of storytelling, and the power of Asma’s rhetoric to get across a narrative that challenges sexism as well as racism within the industry and beyond. The binary split between the sacred and the profane, so common in Western discourses, has been challenged through many of the interviews for The Migration Menu, and this was no exception: Asma, in common with many South Asian diaspora restaurateurs, and particularly the women, makes no radical distinction between the spiritual and the everyday aspects of food and cooking. **On the Menu** Puchkas (wheat shells filled with spiced chickpeas, potatoes and tamarind water) Channa chaat (chickpeas, fresh herbs, spices, tamarind, yogurt) Badami Baingan (aubergine with coconut, peanut and tamarind) Prawn Malaikari (traditional Bengali dish with a coconut milk base) Tamarind dal Pulao rice Paratha Khoobani Ka Meetha (a pudding of slow-cooked apricots served with cream and finished with pistachios Masala chai Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    Asma Khan: Darjeeling Express
  3. Oct 22

    Tony Singh: Live in Edinburgh

    Cross the border with us into Scotland as we embark on the first leg of The Migration Menu’s road trip, and listen in to our interview with celebrity chef, author, and TV cook Tony Singh, in front of a live audience at Kalpna Restaurant in Edinburgh. The event was part of the public anthropology festival PeopleFest, and included a Q&A from the audience who packed the restaurant. ** 00:40-00:58: A reminder to sign-up to our newsletter Listen To The Migration Menu Podcast – The Migration Menu, and get some great discount offers from eateries featured on the show! **Starters** (01:09 –05.23) James and Luke discuss The Migration Menu’s pioneering role in taking anthropology to public audiences, capturing stories about migration from South Asia through food in ways that challenge public discourse, and promote the value of anthropology. They set the scene for their live interview with Sikh chef Tony Singh – the son of migrants from India and a regular on British TV screens – who, with Cyrus Todiwala, was one half of the Incredible Spice Men on BBC2. He currently runs a super club in Edinburgh. **05.24-05.40: A shout-out from Mike Crawley, co-host of The Anthropology Podcast, to have a listen to one of our sibling shows! **Mains** (05:57-22:24) As a packed restaurant tucks into Kalpna’s brunch buffer, Tony shares his family’s journey from Punjab to Leith, in Edinburgh. There, his Scottish-born Punjabi mother pared the best of Scottish and Punjabi cuisines, and provided the inspiration for Tony’s famous haggis pakora. He talks about racism, getting quality South Asian food on to British menus, and the influence of Empire on what we eat today. The discussion also extends to cultural appropriation, fusion, authenticity, and why narrative is important to the taste of a good dish. And James and Luke end the interview with their time honored question: what does Tony have for breakfast? **Dessert** (22:36-41.24) Q&A, followed by James and Luke’s reflections on the discussion. 23.12-33.12: The audience get their chance to ask Tony questions, and learn about square sausage, K-pop, his favorite foods, and what ingredient he couldn’t live without. 33.21-41.24: Apart from a massive bag of pakoras, James & Luke had plenty of other takeaways from the interview, including Tony’s insights on food, empire, the politics of food, and the challenge of defining the boundaries of South Asian cuisine. They also take about the role of celebrity in making a cuisine, and the social aspirations that cookery shows draw upon and shape. References Lengyel, Ariane and Gatley, Andy (2016) Celebrity chefs and the construction of taste: from über macho to culinary crusader. In: CHME Annual Research Conference 2016, 4-6 May 2016, Belfast. (Unpublished) Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    Tony Singh: Live in Edinburgh
  4. Oct 15

    Sohini Banerjee: From Kolkata with Love

    Join us as we head south of the river to Sohini Banerjee’s Smoke and Lime supper club in Kennington, eat some great food, meet a bunch of interesting people, and ponder questions about authenticity, fusion, identity and gender. ** 00:50-01:08: A reminder to sign-up to our newsletter Listen To The Migration Menu Podcast – The Migration Menu, and get some great discount offers from eateries featured on the show! **Starters** (01:09 – 08:03) How do supper clubs work? How are they different to restaurants, and why – in particular – are they growing in popularity among diners from South Asian diasporas? These are some of the questions on James and Luke’s minds enroute to Smoke and Lime supper club, keen to expand their understanding of the South Asian food scene beyond the restaurant space. In addition to supper clubs, they encounter a rich array of services, from Vegetarian Brown Girls’ deliveries of chilled chai to Ajji’s Ghee. **08.04-08.23: A shout-out from Mike Crawley, co-host of The Anthropology Podcast, to have a listen to one of our sibling shows! **Mains** (08:24-20:23) James and Luke join eight other guests for dinner in Sohini’s apartment, capturing some of the Bengali adda – hanging out for informal conversation – as well as the culinary experience. Rijil, Sohini’s husband and co-host of the supper club, takes us, course-by-course, through the menu, rooted in the foodscape of West Bengal, with influences from China, Malaysia, and the couple’s recent trip to Vietnam. One of their favourite London restaurants, SMOKING GOAT | Shoreditch | Thai Bar & Grill, has also made a mark on the menu. **Dessert** (20:28-27:33) James and Luke reflect on their supper club experience, consider the ways in which they blur the boundaries between domestic hospitality and business, friendship and networking, and public and private in interesting – and often delightful – ways. A focus on supper clubs also allows them to dig down into the gendered dimensions of the food industry, with women’s labor, in particular, often invisibilised **On the Menu** Phuchka (A South Kolkata street food special – served at the kitchen counter) Chicken liver larb, with herbs and peach Pumpkin bhorta, pickled mooli Winter vegetables chochori Wild seabass with turmeric and galangal Schezwan prawns and sambal butter Cardamom pannacotta with cocoa and saffron Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    Sohini Banerjee: From Kolkata with Love
  5. Oct 8

    The Taster Menu

    Welcome back to The Migration Menu!! In this week’s episode, James and Luke reflect on the past two seasons of dining out and discussing migration journeys and culinary transformations, and preview what’s on the menu for Season Three…Dig in! See more here: Web: www.themigrationmenu.com YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@TheMigrationMenu **Starters** (00:18 – 01:40) Welcome to the new series, which takes us beyond our usual stomping ground of London to take in road trips to Newcastle and Edinburgh, and explores the phenomenon of the South Asian diaspora celebrity chef… **Mains** (01:40-26:42) James and Luke offer a behind-the-scenes glimpse of The Migration Menu’s origin story and at what they’ve learnt along the way. They also look back at the restaurants, restaurateurs, and others who have joined them on the journey, with shout-outs to… Series One 01:49: Indra Hang Linden at Namaste Gurkha 08:12: Al Hyderabadi 08:44: Madhus 10:56: Sri Krishna Vada Pau 11:09: London Food Company 12:10: YAKO 12:31: Saravanaa Bhavan *16:56: Shout out for our fellow anthropology podcast, The Anthropology Podcast!* Series Two 18:03: London Buddhist Vihara 18:37: Guru Nanak Sikh Academy (GNSA) annual Langar 20:14: Graam Bangla 20:29: Maldivian Supper Club 21:10: The Kokum 22:53: Takharistan (Shepherd’s Bush) and Shiraz (Uxbridge Road) 23:42: GIFTOs 23:45: Behesht 24:25: Sohini Banerjee & Debbie Weekes-Bernard at Pitzhanger Gallery 24:46: The Vegetarian Brown Girls 25:21: Sathnam Sanghera at GNSA 25:35: The Gaze – the hidden lives of food entrepreneurs **Dessert** (26:42-29:46) James and Luke wrap up this week’s show with a round-up of what’s in store this series, where their interviews with celebrity South Asian diaspora chefs reveal some of the creative ways in which restaurateurs survive in a tough environment. Shout-outs to… 27:22: Tony Singh at Kalpna, live from Edinburgh 27.46: Asma Khan of Darjeeling Express, London 27.56: Asma Khan at the SOAS Food Studies’ Centre Annual Distinguished Lecture 28:04: Ravinder Bhogal of Jikoni, London 28:38: Aida Khan of Shola Karachi Kitchen 28:53: Special live recording from ClassicsFest, Newcastle, with food at The Lubber Kitchen and The Seven Bridges Café 29:30: Cyrus Todiwala of Café Spice Namaste Works Cited: Baumann, G. (1996) Contesting culture: Discourses of identity in multi-ethnic London. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    The Taster Menu
  6. 12/10/2025

    Sathnam Sanghera and The Migration Menu

    In this special episode, James and Luke interview acclaimed author and Times journalist Sathnam Sanghera in front of a live audience at the Guru Nanak Sikh Academy in Hayes  **Starters** (01.14-02.49)  A quick introduction to Sathnam Sanghera and his work ahead of our live-recording.  **Mains** (02:50-30.58)  James and Luke discover what Sathnam ate growing up in Wolverhampton in the early 1980s, the intriguing ways in which British influences affected Punjabi food in the diaspora, and why his mother purposely didn’t teach him how to cook. We also discuss food and identity, and how it is used to express both love and anger; how Empire has left its indelible mark on how we eat the world over today; and why Sathnam doesn’t like the term “cultural appropriation.” Our conversation also explores Sathnam’s quest to find the perfect curry, why he once named Pizza Express as his favourite restaurant, and he favours Gymkhana and Jikoni over Dishoom.  **Dessert** (30.59-36.00)  Back in the studio, James and Luke reflect on their conversation with Sathnam and the discussion that followed it with the audience. They also gave a shoutout to Dr John Perkins of the Guru Nanak Sikh Academy – without whose help they couldn’t have held the event there – and the school’s catering team for laying on dal and rice, samosa and chai  Works Cited:  Collingham, Lizzie. 2017. The Taste of Empire: How Britain’s Quest for Food Shaped the Modern World. New York: Basic Books.  Jegathesan, Mythri. 2019. Tea and Solidarity: Tamil Women and Work in Post-War Sri Lanka. Seattle: University of Washington Press.  Mintz, Sidney W. 1986. Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History. Manchester: University of Manchester Press.  Sanghera, Sathnam. 2008. The Boy with the Topknot: A Memoir of Love, Secrets and Lies in Wolverhampton. Penguin Books.  Sanghera, Sathnam. 2016. Marriage Material. Europa Editions, 2016.  Sanghera, Sathnam. 2021. Empireland: How Imperialism Has Shaped Modern Britain. Viking.  Sanghera, Sathnam. 2023. Stolen History: the Truth About the British Empire and How It Shaped Us. Penguin Books.  Sanghera, Sathnam. 2024. Empireworld: How British Imperialism Has Shaped the Globe. Penguin Books.    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

    Sathnam Sanghera and The Migration Menu

About

Journey from South Asia to West London through food as we explore migration, globalisation, entrepreneurship, and cultural heritage.   In the series, Prof James Staples and Dr Luke Heslop, anthropologists from Brunel University London, talk to restaurateurs and others about what food from their homeland means to them and why. They explore the rich array of culinary traditions that have made their way from South Asia and been made anew in West London, using food as an entry point to wider discussions. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

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