Jeansland Podcast

Jeansland

This is why I do this. Jeansland is a podcast about the ecosystem in which jeans live. There are an estimated 26 million cotton farmers around the world, and about 25% of their production goes into jeans, which could mean 6.2 million farmers depend on denim. I read estimates that at least 1 million people work in retail selling jeans, and another 1.5 to 2 million sew them. And then there are all the label producers, pattern makers, laundries, chemical companies, machinery producers, and those that work in denim mills. I mean, the jeans industry, which is bigger than the global movie and music business combined, employs a lot of human beings. And many of them, like me, love jeans. The French philosopher and existentialist Simone de Beauvoir, when visiting New York, said, "Everyone in the New York subway is a novel." I never met her, but I guess she made the observation because of the incredible diversity of people who ride the subway system. I'm convinced the people in our jeans industry are like those in the subway. They are unique, with rich and complex stories to tell, and I want to hear them. And deep inside me, I think you might feel the same way. https://jeansland.co/

  1. 2d ago

    Ep 80: The Art and Science of Pattern Making with Alessio Berto

    A great garment begins long before it reaches a sewing machine. In Episode 80, Andrew sits down with Alessio Berto, founder of The Tailor Pattern Support and one of Italy’s most experienced pattern designers. Over nearly four decades, Alessio has worked across denim, menswear, sportswear, teaching, and product development for brands including Replay, Jean Paul Gaultier, DKNY Jeans, Diesel Denim Gallery, Sport Chanel, Katharine Hamnett, and Boy London. The conversation begins outside Venice, where Alessio grew up around the pattern-making school where his mother taught, reading fashion magazines, studying the clothes worn by his favorite musicians, and later discovering a passion for DJing that still fuels his creativity today. Andrew and Alessio get into the invisible work behind fit: fabric, shrinkage, construction, grading, manufacturing, and the countless decisions hidden inside a garment that simply feels right. They also talk about Made in Italy, globalization, technology, teaching, and why design is only one part of the process. For Alessio, pattern making began as an art, became a technique, grew into a science, and ultimately had to be engineered. After learning the rules, the real freedom comes from knowing when to break them, much like improvisation in jazz. Thank you to our sponsor Inside Denim. Alessio Berto Founder of The Tailor Pattern Support The Tailor Pattern Support, Instagram, LinkedIn Please follow us on: Instagram, Facebook, and LinkedIn.

    Ep 80: The Art and Science of Pattern Making with Alessio Berto
  2. Jul 22

    Ep. 78: Japanese Denim—Past and Future with Bobby Tohma

    Japanese denim is admired for its quality, craftsmanship, and the extraordinary care behind how it is made. In Episode 78, Andrew sits down with Bobby Tohma, owner of Amhot Holdings and Idea Blue in Osaka. Andrew has known Bobby for more than four decades, and Bobby has spent nearly his entire career in the Japanese textile business, working across fabric export, trading, mills, weavers, and denim. The conversation begins with Japan at its economic peak, when textiles were everywhere, exports were booming, and the country produced almost everything. Andrew and Bobby look back at the role of trading companies, the way money and production moved through the system, and how that structure helped build one of the most important textile industries in the world. From there, they get into Japanese denim itself. Rope dyeing, shuttle looms, small production runs, and the network of spinners, dyers, weavers, and finishing mills that still gives the industry its character. They also talk about why some customers are already booking fabric years in advance, and why Japanese mills are often focused less on efficiency than on the product itself. They also discuss what has changed. Fewer factories. Fewer engineers. Fewer young people entering the business. Uniqlo’s impact on the domestic market. The growing interest from European luxury groups. And the slow movement toward greater sustainability and transparency. Andrew is direct about where he stands. He still wears Japanese denim because, in his words, it is better. Bobby offers a comparison that captures the future he hopes for: denim from Japan becoming like watches from Switzerland, something people recognize, value, and are willing to pay more for. It’s also a conversation about what comes next. How does Japanese denim protect the knowledge, labor, and quality that made it special while finding a way to keep moving forward? Thank you to our sponsor Inside Denim. Bobby Tohma Owner, Amhot Holdings LLC Amhot Holdings, LinkedIn Please follow us on: Instagram, Facebook, and LinkedIn.  Please follow us on: Instagram, Facebook, and LinkedIn.

    Ep. 78: Japanese Denim—Past and Future with Bobby Tohma
  3. Jul 15

    Ep 77: Can AI Grow Better Cotton? with Brendan Collins & Tricia Carey

    For decades, developing new crop varieties has been slow, expensive, and full of trade-offs. Avalo believes better genetics, better data, and artificial intelligence can change that. In Episode 77, Andrew sits down with Brendan Collins, Co-Founder and CEO of Avalo, and Tricia Carey, Avalo’s Chief Commercial Officer and one of the textile industry’s most respected voices on fiber innovation and sustainable supply chains. Together, they look at how new approaches to crop development could create cotton that needs fewer inputs, gives farmers a better chance to make money, and holds up more reliably in a changing climate. The conversation starts with how new crop varieties have traditionally been developed by selecting for certain traits over many generations. Why bringing one new crop to market can take a decade and cost more than $100 million. And how better genetic data and computing tools can shorten that process dramatically. From there, they get into drought, irrigation, carbon reduction, regenerative agriculture, and why improving cotton begins long before it reaches a spinner or mill. They also talk about traceability, farmer partnerships, brand adoption, and the growing need for better information throughout the agricultural supply chain. Underneath it all is a larger idea: if crops can be developed to work better within the environments where they are grown, the future of sustainability may begin long before spinning, weaving, or manufacturing ever starts. Thank you to our sponsor Inside Denim. Brendan Collins Co-Founder & CEO at Avalo Avalo, LinkedIn Tricia Carey Chief Commercial Officer at Avalo Avalo, LinkedIn Please follow us on: Instagram, Facebook, and LinkedIn.

    Ep 77: Can AI Grow Better Cotton? with Brendan Collins & Tricia Carey
  4. Jun 24

    Ep 74: The Future of Traceable Cotton with Imran Asghar

    Pakistan’s cotton crop is recovering. But that is only part of the story. In Episode 74, Andrew sits down again with Imran Asghar, Head of Asia Pacific at FibreTrace, to discuss cotton, traceability, sustainability, and the growing pressure to prove where products actually come from. FibreTrace uses physical tracers and real-time scanning to help verify fiber movement through the supply chain. The discussion begins in Pakistan, where cotton acreage is expanding after several difficult years. They discuss seed quality, government support, farmer economics, water availability, and the challenges facing growers as costs rise across the region. From there, the discussion moves into traceability.  How cotton is tracked through the supply chain. Why less than two percent of global cotton is physically traceable today. And why brands, governments, and consumers are increasingly asking for more than certifications and paperwork. They also explore competing approaches to verification, the role of technology in authenticating origin claims, and why proving sustainability may become just as important as making it. Along the way, they look at water use, regenerative agriculture, cluster farming, and the efforts underway in countries such as Pakistan and Uzbekistan to strengthen both cotton production and textile manufacturing. Underneath it all is a larger question: as sustainability claims become more common, how will the industry distinguish between what can be documented and what can actually be verified? Thank you to our sponsor Inside Denim. Imran Asghar Head of Asia Pacific, FibreTrace® | Cotton Traceability FibreTrace®, Instagram, LinkedIn Please follow us on: Instagram, Facebook, and LinkedIn.

    Ep 74: The Future of Traceable Cotton with Imran Asghar
  5. Jun 17

    Ep 73—FRESH BLOOD, Part 7: From Upcycling to Opportunity with Landon Williams

    FRESH BLOOD is about renewal. Every industry either regenerates itself or slowly hardens. In this Jeansland series, Andrew steps back to listen to the next generation already working inside denim’s supply chain, upstream in fibers, sourcing platforms, laundries, and raw materials. In Part 7 of the series, Andrew sits down with Landon Williams, denim designer, artist, and founder of Nolia James. Landon grew up in Mississippi, surrounded by generations of makers, repairers, and creatives. What started with altering and repairing clothes eventually led him to Levi’s, denim production, upcycling, and a growing interest in how garments can be transformed rather than discarded. Andrew and Landon talk about denim fit, manufacturing in Chicago, indigo dyeing, upcycling, and why he believes the industry needs to think differently about waste, materials, and the lifecycle of clothing. They also get into new fibers, secondhand fashion, the future of retail, and why some of the most interesting opportunities may come from finding value in what already exists. For Landon, waste is not the end of the process. It is where the next idea begins. And maybe that is exactly where the industry needs to look next. Thank you to our sponsor Inside Denim. Landon Williams Founder of Nolia James Nolia James, Landon's Instagram, Nolia James' Instagram, X Please follow us on: Instagram, Facebook, and LinkedIn.

    Ep 73—FRESH BLOOD, Part 7: From Upcycling to Opportunity with Landon Williams
5
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14 Ratings

About

This is why I do this. Jeansland is a podcast about the ecosystem in which jeans live. There are an estimated 26 million cotton farmers around the world, and about 25% of their production goes into jeans, which could mean 6.2 million farmers depend on denim. I read estimates that at least 1 million people work in retail selling jeans, and another 1.5 to 2 million sew them. And then there are all the label producers, pattern makers, laundries, chemical companies, machinery producers, and those that work in denim mills. I mean, the jeans industry, which is bigger than the global movie and music business combined, employs a lot of human beings. And many of them, like me, love jeans. The French philosopher and existentialist Simone de Beauvoir, when visiting New York, said, "Everyone in the New York subway is a novel." I never met her, but I guess she made the observation because of the incredible diversity of people who ride the subway system. I'm convinced the people in our jeans industry are like those in the subway. They are unique, with rich and complex stories to tell, and I want to hear them. And deep inside me, I think you might feel the same way. https://jeansland.co/

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