Everyone knows Everest. But Nepal has over 6,000 peaks near 6,000 metres — and most of them have never been climbed. This week, third-generation mountain guide and CEO of Everest Holiday, Shreejan Simkhada (call him Joe), takes us off the tourist trail and into the Nepal that most people never see. From a 1,300-year-old monastery in Upper Mustang to a Christian village tucked into a Buddhist valley at 4,000 metres near the Tibet border — this episode will completely change how you think about the Himalayas. In This Episode The trekking routes Joe actually recommends — and why he steers people away from the crowded onesUpper Mustang: the last piece of free Tibet, and why you might have 10 years left to see it as it isShort treks for time-limited travellers (4 days to 10 days)Best and worst seasons — and what the rainy season rule change means for youWildlife, safaris, paragliding, rafting, and 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in one cityThe solo trekking rule that just changedHow to do Everest Base Camp on a budget — and what luxury looks likeJoe's one piece of advice before you bookAbout Joe & Everest Holiday Shreejan Simkhada — Joe — is a third-generation tourism entrepreneur from Nepal, a practicing Kagyu Buddhist, and the CEO of Everest Holiday. His family has been in the industry for decades. Joe operates treks, climbs and tours across Nepal, India, Tibet and Bhutan, with a strong focus on social charity: his travel work began as a way to fund and support his charity projects on the ground. Recommended Routes (Beyond Everest) Off the beaten track: Upper Dolpa — remote, raw, one of Joe's top picksUpper Mustang — the last preserved piece of free Tibet; still a restricted area, 10-day packages, accessible by road but see it soon before roads change it foreverRuby Valley — Joe's personal favourite; Buddhist and Hindu villages that became Christian, waterfalls in every direction in the wet season, 8–10 daysKanchanjunga — a major trail that almost no one does; Joe calls it "amazing"Rara lake & Jumla — stunning and deeply undervisitedMakalu — unique landscape, worth it for those who want something differentGreat Himalayan Trail (GST) — one of the longest trekking routes in the worldFor shorter trips: Langtang Valley to Kyanjin Gompa — 7–8 days, beautiful mountain views, manageable for most fitness levelsGosaikunda Lake Trek — 4–5 days, walk along a ridge to a lake at altitude; still in the main area but underrecognisedRuby Valley — 8–10 days, cultural richness plus the landscapeUpper Mustang: Why It Matters Upper Mustang was restricted to outsiders until the 1990s and required a $500/day permit (minimum two people, so $1,000 minimum) until recently. Permits are now $50/day and solo travellers are permitted. It is home to Ghar Gompa, one of the oldest Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in existence (1,300–1,400 years old), caves where yogis and masters have meditated for thousands of years, and a landscape unlike anywhere else — a cold desert with the Himalayas rising behind you. Joe describes it as a pilgrimage. Roads are now reaching the region, and he believes it has about 10 years left before it changes irrevocably. Nepal Beyond the Mountains Nepal is 147,000 square kilometres. It has: 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Kathmandu aloneThe birthplace of the Buddha (Lumbini)Thousands of Hindu and Buddhist templesChitwan National Park — jungle safari (Everest Holiday does not offer elephant rides on ethical grounds); 2–3 day packages availableBardia National Park — the place to go if you want to see Bengal tigers in the wildParagliding, bungee jumping, white-water raftingA photography tour option for wildlifeEven a hunting reserve (Joe doesn't operate it, but it exists)The Golden Triangle: Kathmandu → Pokhara → Chitwan → Lumbini — 10–15 days, no trekking required, covers the highlights of Nepal's culture and wildlife. You can now drive to Upper Mustang — no trekking required. Joe's tips: Start walking stairs up and down before you arrive — that's the main training you needBring hiking poles — essential for the knees on the descentFollow the acclimatisation schedule, no matter how fit you areA guide is required in restricted areas and strongly recommended everywhere elseSolo Trekking — What Changed Nepal recently changed its rules. Previously, restricted areas required a minimum of two people. Now solo travellers can enter restricted areas. You still need a licensed guide, permit, and insurance — but the two-person minimum is gone. This opens up Upper Mustang and Upper Dolpa to solo travellers for the first time. Practical Info Getting there: Fly into Kathmandu (TIA). Some routes require onward domestic flights.Guides: Required in restricted areas; strongly recommended everywhere. Joe's company connects you with experienced, vetted guides — including a former monk who has worked with his family for 40 years.Poles: Yes, bring them or rent them — especially for the descentCold: Don't underestimate altitude temperatures. Layers are essential.Heat: If you're doing jungle safaris, pack for tropical heat — it's a very different Nepal down in Chitwan Contact Joe Website: theeverestholiday.comWhatsApp: +977 981 035 1300Instagram: The Everest HolidayYoutube: The Everest HolidayFacebook: The Everest Holiday This post contains affiliate links. If you book through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you — it helps keep the podcast going. Thank you! Related Episodes Want more on the Himalayas? Go back to Season 1 Episode 2 where Paula's husband — a climber himself — talks about Everest and what draws people to the world's highest peak. A great companion listen to this episode. Enjoyed this episode? 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