David Lebovitz podcast

From my Paris kitchen

From my kitchen in Paris, talks with my favorite bakers, cookbook authors, pastry chefs, bartenders, chefs, spirits experts, along with a dose of Paris dining tips and French culinary culture. davidlebovitz.substack.com

Episodes

  1. APR 11

    Chocolate Marshmallows

    One of my favorite parts about writing my chocolate book was getting to explore, and share, the world of chocolate. Chocolate is a pretty wonderful ingredient all by itself. But I wanted to feature friends in the chocolate world, so I culled recipes from bakers, pastry chefs, chocolatiers, cookbook authors, and even bartenders for the book. For the revision of The Great Book of Chocolate, I completely rewrote the book (since so much has changed!) and wanted to include a chocolate marshmallow recipe. So I thought about Amanda Bankert of Boneshaker donuts in Paris, who taught me how to make vegan marshmallows, which were game-changers since many people have asked me about substitutions for the gelatin and egg whites that are normally used in marshmallow recipes. Subscribe to my newsletter to get recipes, videos, stories from Paris, and more, sent right to your Inbox! Amanda is one of the most fun people I know, and is also a graduate of the prestigious Cordon Bleu cooking school in Paris. So when revising The Great Book of Chocolate, I thought, “Why not veganize chocolate marshmallows?” With the book coming out in less than a month, I then thought, “Wouldn’t it be fun to have Amanda come over and make them with me in my kitchen?” So we made a video of us preparing them together. We had such a good time whipping them up, and it’s great that anyone - vegan or not - can enjoy these delicious marshmallows. And next time you’re in Paris, stop by Boneshaker for a donut and a cup of coffee. Like Amanda, her shop is one of the most fun things in Paris. And if you see her behind the counter, say hi for me, and enjoy the video! A few helpful tips to read before making the recipe: * Be sure to stir and scrape the bottom of the pot while the syrup is cooking to scrape up any agar-agar that’s sticking to the pan. * The better (and darker) the cocoa powder, the tastier the marshmallows will be. I like Valrhona cocoa powder and Guittard cocoa rouge. King Arthur sells a double dark cocoa blend that I haven’t tried, but any Dutch-process cocoa powder will do. Hershey’s Special Dark is a sleeper in this category, and affordable. * You may have to do a bit of shopping to get the xanthan gum and agar-agar, a natural gelatin substitute, which, interestingly, is sold in French grocery stores. Natural food stores or online shops are good places to look where you live. In Paris, G. Detou sells them, as well as cream of tartar. The good thing is, you’ll have them on hand for next time : ) * Aquafaba is the chickpea cooking liquid found in canned chickpeas, not jarred, nor is it the liquid from dried chickpeas that you cook at home. (Interestingly, aquafaba was “discovered” by a French opera singer.) In the U.S., generally one 15-ounce/425g can yields 3/4 cup (180ml) liquid, but you may want to get an extra can just to be sure. (You can use the chickpeas to make my really good hummus.) * It’s nice to have a helper in the kitchen to steady the bowl while you fold in the cocoa powder, as I did with Amanda. If you’re by yourself, resting the mixing bowl on a silicone baking mat will help keep the bowl in place. * And don’t forget to pre-order The Great Book of Chocolate - it’s out May 5th and you’ll be the first to get a copy! This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe

    17 min
  2. FEB 9

    Podcast: Lauren Collins, Paris-based New Yorker Journalist

    Since 2015, Lauren Collins, staff writer for the New Yorker, has called Paris home. The author of When in French: Love in a Second Language, Lauren moved from Switzerland to France with her French husband and continues to write for the New Yorker, following in their tradition (which includes writers such as A. J. Liebling, Anthony Bourdain, Calvin Trillin, John McPhee, and Adam Gopnick) of outstanding food writing and reporting on food-related topics. Her articles have ranged from subjects such as the controversial French tacos, spelled with an “s,” even though it’s just one; Les Grands Buffets, the all-you-can-eat buffet restaurant that’s the hardest reservation in France (in my experience trying, it’s the hardest in the world); and the elusive El Mordjene Algerian hazelnut spread, a cult favorite that’s nicknamed “beige gold,” which was banned in France. Lauren has also written on the wonders of Japan’s fake foods, as well as “Where should I go?” a service that provides Americans and other visitors with “insider” French experiences, such as fulfilling the request of a client who wanted to be invited to a party in a French person’s home. Recently Lauren reviewed the just-published memoir of former Président Nicolas Sarkozy’s brief time in prison, titled How Nicolas Sarkozy Survived Twenty Days Behind Bars, a book that received a mixed reception in France. In her newsletter Lettre Recommandée, she titled her story The Rush Job Memoir That’s Topping the French Charts. Oh, and she got to meet Omar Sy! In the podcast, we discuss how these stories came to be, as well as how things have changed in France since Lauren’s moved here, and what it’s like being a journalist in France. As I do with Paris-based guests on my podcast, I asked Lauren to share some of her favorite addresses in the city for dining, which she was happy to do. Lauren’s recommendations are Le Récamier, Le Soufflé, Chez Carrie, Enni Udon, Magnolia, La Joie, and Rosario, as well as Finkstuebel in Strasbourg. In the podcast, she explains why they are her favorites. Enjoy listening in! -David * Follow Lauren Collins on Instagram * Subscribe to Lauren’s newsletter, Lettre Recommandée * Read Lauren’s articles in The New Yorker This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe

    56 min
  3. 03/19/2023

    Podcast: On Travel and Eating French Pastries with Phil Rosenthal

    When Phil Rosenthal, star of Somebody Feed Phil, comes to town, we did what we do best: Eat. Phil was in Paris recently on tour celebrating his book, Somebody Feed Phil, the companion to his Netflix series. The cookbook is a compilation of the most requested recipes from the show, which has become wildly popular, and we had a lot of fun catching up since we first met in Paris, back in 2014, when it all began for him. We dined well in a few great restaurants in Paris, but took a break from the savory side to enjoy some classic French pastries (from Maison Landemaine), which included Chouquettes and a Croissant aux amandes* (above), the latter of which I call the “slippery slope” of French pastries, because once you start eating one, you can’t stop. This particular one also had chocolate in it, which made it extra irresistible. (While we were recording, Phil liked it so much, he almost ate the whole thing himself!) We also shared a classic Chocolate éclair as well as one of the lesser-known French pastries (outside of France, that is): Flan Parisien. Check out our chat, and our tasting of these sublime French pastries. Enjoy the podcast! -David This post is for all subscribers. If you’re not a subscriber, you can subscribe here! Feel free to subscribe to my podcast at your favorite podcast platform, including Apple Podcasts and Spotify. *There’s a recipe for making these in my book, L’Appart. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe

    44 min
4.9
out of 5
140 Ratings

About

From my kitchen in Paris, talks with my favorite bakers, cookbook authors, pastry chefs, bartenders, chefs, spirits experts, along with a dose of Paris dining tips and French culinary culture. davidlebovitz.substack.com

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