Few people know, or write about, Paris as well as Elaine Sciolino. With an extensive background in journalism, Elaine was the Paris bureau chief for the New York Times and remains a contributing writer. She has also written four books on Paris and French culture. Her book, The Only Street in Paris, put her neighborhood on the map, portraying the various merchants, food sellers, and restaurants that line the rue des Martyrs, a microcosm of life in the city. Her recent book is Adventures in the Louvre: How to Fall in Love with the World’s Greatest Museum. If the subtitle intrigues you, it’s because the Louvre has had its ups and downs over the years, beginning its life as a fortress, then becoming a residence, then a public “shopping” center, and now, a museum. Elaine takes readers on a journey through the imposing wall and behind the scenes of this famous museum, which both captivates, and vexes, visitors. Being right next to the Seine, the museum is prone to flooding, crowds crane their necks to see the Mona Lisa, and robbers broke in recently, in broad daylight, snatching €88 million ($102 dollars) in jewels, which haven’t been seen since. Security has been a recurring problem at the museum, and the video security system password at the time of the robbery was “Louvre.” Elaine’s book is also full of fun facts about the museum, including one that notes if you wanted to see the whole museum, the walk would be nine miles (14.5km). Other helpful advice: “Never go on an empty stomach and with a full bladder,” because the food offerings in the museum don’t match the cultural treasures in the galleries and corridors. In the podcast, Elaine gave a great tip for visiting the Louvre and avoiding the crowds and the lines, which you might find helpful on your next visit. Enjoy the chat! -David * Follow Elaine Sciolino on Instagram. * Connect with Elaine on Facebook. * Visit Elaine’s website. * Read Elaine’s articles in the New York Times. As always, I ask my podcast guests their favorite addresses in Paris. Here are the ones Elaine mentioned, with a few of her notes: -Les Poissonniers de Montmartre (5 rue des Martyrs, 9th) Elaine says every Thursday Akim, the owner, makes his version of bouillabaisse available to-go, priced at €13.90 for two servings. -La Pâtisserie des Martyrs – Sébastien Gaudard This has her favorite lemon tart, and she also likes the “original”-style macarons. -Les Canailles Owner Yann always gives a warm welcome. -Le Comptoir Canaille Italian cuisine. -Chez Mamy Elaine is fond of their bœuf bourguinon, billed as joue de bœuf, or beef cheeks.-Le Quincy (28 Av. Ledru Rollin, 12th) Auberge dining that’s “frozen in 1950s Paris” featuring escargots, frogs legs, pork terrine, and stuffed cabbage. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe
