色彩斑斓、图案鲜明的印花布是非洲各地常见的服饰材料，这些“非洲印花布”是非洲的吗？和全球贸易和纺织工艺发展有什么关系？中国是当今非洲市场上印花布料的主要进口来源国之一，如何从全球的视角和中非纺织工业历史的角度理解其形成与发展？中国的进入对当地的印花布生产、消费和技术发展产生什么样的影响？ 本期嘉宾我们邀请博士毕业于北京大学、现就职于北京外国语大学的郭艺华老师，她在节目中和我们介绍她在尼日利亚的研究，分享非洲印花布背后的故事以及中非纺织业的经济交往历史。 内容提要： 从蒙古语到中非纺织产业研究 全球贸易视角下的非洲印花布历史 尼日利亚民族纺织业兴衰 西非纺织品贸易的流转 中国制造进入非洲印花布市场 针对图案版权的争议与策略 当地不同群体的反馈 从中国工厂到尼日利亚市场：田野故事 艺华与尼日利亚艺术家Peju Layiwola（左一）、手工艺产业协会工作人员（右一、右二）的合影 中国某印花布工厂官网的产品示意图 相关研究： O. Adunbi and H. Stein, ’The Political Economy of China’s Investment in Nigeria- Prometheus or Leviathan?’ in A. Oqubay, Y. Lin ed. China-Africa and and Economic Transformation, (Oxford University Press, 2019), pp192-215. B. Boateng, The Copyright Things Doesn’t Work Here: Adinkra and Kente Cloth and Intellectual Property in Ghana, (University of Minnesota Press, 2011). C. Broggi, ‘The Rise of Hong Kong’s Textile Industry, 1945–1974: The Role of the Hong Kong Spinners Association (HKSA),’ Business History, 2024-05-26, pp1-19. R. Horner, ‘Strategic Decoupling, Recoupling and Global Production Networks: India's Pharmaceutical Industry,’ Journal of Economic Geography, 2014, Vol. 14, No. 6, pp1117-1140. D. Kamara, ‘Fake Wax’, Journal of African Cultural Studies, 33(3): 364-369. K. Kobayashi, Kazuo, Indian Cotton Textiles in West Africa: African Agency, Consumer Demand and the Making of the Global Economy, 1750-1850, (Palgrave Macmillan, 2019). S. Liu, The History of Chinese Presence in Nigeria (1950s–2010s): Factories, Commodities and Entrepreneurs, (Routledge, 2022). S. Maiwada,, E. Renne, 'The Kaduna Textile Industry and the Decline of Textile Manufacturing in Northern Nigeria, 1955-2010,' Textile History. 2013, Vol. 44, No, 2, pp171-196. M. Muhammad, ‘The impact of Chinese textile imperialism on Nigeria’s textile industry and trade: 1960–2015’, Review of African Political Economy, 2017, Vol.44, No. 154, pp673-682. S. Onyeiwu, ‘The modern textile industry in Nigeria: history, structural change, and recent developments’, Textile History, 1997, Vol. 28, No. 2, pp234-249. J. Pezold, ‘Co-Constructing Fashion in a South-South context: selling Chinese-made garments and textiles in Mozambique,’ Critical African Studies, Vol. 15, No. 1, pp73-90. J. Picton, The Art of African Textiles: Technology, Tradition and Lurex, (Lund Humphries Press, 1995). E.Prag, ‘Mama Benz in Trouble: Networks, the State and Fashion Wars in the Beninese Textile Market’. African Studies Review. Vol.56, No.3, pp101-121. E. Renne, ‘The Changing Contexts of Chinese-Nigerian Textile Production and Trade, 1900-2015,’ Textile, 2015, Vol. 13, No. 3, pp212-233. E. Renne, ‘United Nigerian Textiles Limited and Chinese–Nigerian textile-manufacturing collaboration in Kaduna,’ Africa, 2019, Vol. 89, No. 4, 2019, pp696-717. E.Renne, ‘Introduction,’ in E. Renne, S. Maiwada ed. Textile Ascendancies: Aesthetics, Production, and Trade in Northern Nigeria (University of Michigan Press, 2020). E. Renne, ‘Kaduna Textile Industry, Trade, and the Coming of Chinese Textiles’, in E. Renne, S. Maiwada ed. Textile Ascendancies: Aesthetics, Production, and Trade in Northern Nigeria (University of Michigan Press, 2020). N. Sylvanus, ‘Chinese Devils, the Global Market, and the Declining Power of Togo's Nana-Benzes’. African Studies Review, 2013, Vol. 56, No.1, pp65-80. N.Sylvanus, Patterns in Circulation: Cloth, Gender and Materiality in West Africa, (University of Chicago Press, 2016). 戴红梅（2003）. 印染行业瓶颈突围——访中国印染行业理事长李金宝. 纺织信息周刊. 154(10):8. 丁顾强（2000）. 纺织工业进步的重点. 改革与发展论坛. 2000(8): 14-15. 杰里菲，加里等（2018）. 全球价值链和国际发展：理论框架、研究发现和政策分析. 曹文、李可译. 上海人民出版社. 李金宝（2003）. 中国印染行业现状与未来展望. 纺织信息周刊. 191(47): 9-10. 刘青海（2020）. 由盛而衰：尼日利亚纺织业发展演变的原因论析. 历史教学问题. 2020(4): 17-24+164. 刘添涛，白莹（2023）. 印染行业节能减排先进技术分析. 染整技术. 45(6): 7-12+47. 刘添涛，赵伟伟（2024）. 中国印染行业绿色发展报告. 染整技术. 46(9): 1-9+18. 卢润秋（1999a）. 我国印染行业的回顾与展望（上）. 北京纺织. 20(2): 4-8. 卢润秋（1999b）. 我国印染行业的回顾与展望（下）. 北京纺织. 20(3): 30-32. 王华（2012）. 非洲经典织染与印花设计. 东华大学出版社. 提到的艺术家： Chief Nike Okundaye Peju Layiwola
